Komodo (Pulau Padar) Lat. 8 degrees 39.7' S Long. 119 degrees 32.6' E

Yesterday on our way up from Rinja we saw a sail up ahead and it turned out to be Don and Tanya on the Canadian boat "Pedoja". We had a brief conversation on VHF and shouted across the water (!) and we said we'd follow them around the western end of Pulau Padar where we struck a vicious current and whirlpools and upwellings which knocked our speed and course around something terrible. However, soon through that and around the corner to a glorious white sand beach where we anchored alongside "Pedoja". Crystal clear water and in 7 metres we could clearly see the anchor. Swam off the boat during the afternoon and it was so refreshing not to have to worry about crocodiles and stingers! That night in the moonlight is was quite eerie seeing the bottom - more so than in daylight. It seemed as though we were floating in thin air. Later we made a green curry with chicken and took it over to "Pedoja" where we enjoyed the meal and wine and some good company.
Slept the sleep of the dead last night and woke this morning somewhat refreshed after our passage from Kupang. Possible change of plan again - we spent the morning working out a passage plan to Medana Bay and after today our plan is to get there as soon as possible. It means that we won't see any dragons but we are well past worrying about that. We just want to get the boat sorted. The passage involves 7 overnight stops between here and Medana and we are indebted to Bill of "Kullaroo" for the detailed information about the anchorages. We are looking forward to seeing the various areas. By contrast sail Indonesia only lists Labuan Bajo and then Medana but there are 262 miles in between!! They are not interested in the logistics - only the social events and the photo opportunities at the official stops. Certainly there is absolutely no information re any coastal passages and possible intermediate stops from Sail Indonesia. They are not sailors and have no concept of the practicalities of sailing. Quite apart from our own misfortunes, we have found them to be a hindrance rather than help and so we have determined that we will take the initiative and organise our own way forward from now on.
The anchorage here on Pulau Padar is just what the doctor ordered and so peaceful. We went ashore with Tanya earlier looking for dragons but didn't see any. Probably just as well because their bite can be lethal, being very poisonous. The scenery is dramatic with high volcanic hills all very eroded. There are deer and pigs here as well which would account for the erosion. The climate is very dry and it hasn't rained for us since we left Cairns! Lots of human generated rubbish as well on the otherwise pristine beach. We see it in the water all the time and it seems that like most of Asia everything just gets tossed into the environment with no thought of the consequences. The hillsides are brown and the more distant islands remind us vividly of the Purerua Peninsula in the Bay of Islands during a dry hot summer. Same rugged topography with the difference that almost everywhere they are steep to with very deep water close inshore. Makes anchoring difficult and it is necessary therefore to choose anchorages carefully.
Well, that's it from us for now - watch this space.
Lotsaluv from us,
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Padar
Indonesia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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