Fwd: Still at Kupang. W. Timor

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Subject: Fwd: Still at Kupang. W. Timor
Date: 09 Aug 2013 13:14:55 -0000
From: zmq5985

----- Original Message -----
Subject: Still at Kupang. W. Timor
Date: 09 Aug 2013 13:10:00 -0000
From: zmq5985

This place has had mixed fortunes for us, that's for sure. We've been here for 9 days now with various problems relating to the boat - the fuel problem already mentioned, the windlass which took a beating pulling up our chain from 90 metres after we had been hit by the boat which dragged down on top of us and now our dinghy which has been trashed by local kids jumping up and down on the pontoons when it has been on the beach and damaging the valves where the air is pumped in. And now our salt water raw water pump is weeping water - but we have a spare.
Fortunately we have been introduced to "Matthew" who is a local mechanic and a jack of all trades as you have to be here. He has fixed the fuel issue by installing an electric fuel pump to bypass the mechanical lift pump we had. This however isn't as simple as it sounds. Matthew organised a taxi (which he drove himself because he said the taxi drivers were too slow!!) and off we went to find a pump plus fuel hose and fittings. Only supposed to take half an hour but 4 hours later...........only in Kupang which, like most Asian cities is to us completely chaotic and disorganised. One can't get impatient however - that certainly doesn't help.
Then there's the issue of getting ashore and back to the boat. There is normally quite a big surf on the beach just in front of Teddy's Bar and the beach boys are there to grab the dinghy and hold it while you tumble out - hopefully without tipping up into the waves. Then it's 50,000 Rph (NZD6.25) per 24 hrs. for looking after the dinghy while one goes about one's business. However, they didn't stop the local kids from trashing the dinghy and we now have an unusable dinghy which we are in the process of repairing - hopefully successfully. We won't know the outcome until tomorrow when we gingerly try pumping some air into it to see whether it holds. If it doesn't work that will drastically affect our plans and we will sail as direct as possible for Benoa Marina on Bali where we may be able to get another dinghy - but that's 500 miles from here.
The anchorage here is far from ideal. Part of the stress comes about from leaving the boat and watching her rearing up and down on the waves and wondering whether she'll be there when we return but thanks to the Rocna she always has been. The wind gets up to 20 knots across the anchorage during the day which sets up quite a sea, but always quietens down in the evening so there is some respite. Then we have the Muezzin ashore at the mosque calling the faithful to prayer and that starts through loudspeakers at 4 in the morning as well!!
2 days ago we identified a problem with our windlass and actually removed it from the boat and took it to Matthew's workshop - which is really just an area of broken concrete under the trees with his house at the rear. Many broken down vehicles and motorcycles most of which look as they would never be mobile again but he is a most resourceful and knowledgeable guy and our faith in him has grown exponentially. His latest bill to us was 2 million Rupiah which is NZD250 which we thought was most reasonable. The windlass now has a problem with leaking oil which we suspect resulted from the beating it took in the last few days but this along with the dinghy problem almost certainly means that we will have to miss the north coasts of Flores and Sumbawa but hopefully we can take in some anchorages in the Rinca Group and Komodo. Apparently Rinca is where we should see the famous dragons in the wild - Komodo itself is very commercialised. After that our focus is Bali and the Benoa Marina where we should be able to get the windlass repaired totally and maybe buy another dinghy.
Bali is 500 miles from here so not just a day sail. Maybe from the foregoing you can understand the stress which has built up of late - yesterday and today we really couldn't have gone safely anywhere so just as well there is some forced respite.
With the dinghy out of action we have the services of Raleigh who has a large tinny with a 60 hp. outboard who has delivered fuel to us (much cheaper than the outrageous Sail Indonesia price) and he will take us ashore if we want to go. So, it's not all bad but we do want to be free of this place so we can enjoy at least some of Indonesia. Having said that, our focus has always been Malaysia and that's uppermost in our minds. After Bali there are still some attractive places to go so hopefully we can take advantage of that.
The stress levels are diminishing but it's extraordinary how we have coped. First leaving the boat at the mercy of a 9mm chain and 25 kg. Rocna and 1 metre swell, then landing on a surf swept beach and hurtling through the congested streets of Kupang in search of the necessary items. Teddy's Bar where we land in the dinghy has been a source of refreshment (a 620 ml. bottle of Bintang beer for 35,000 Rph - NZD4.40 - so everything reasonably priced.) The average meal is 50,000 (Nasi Goreng) so quite a bit cheaper than Parnhell in Auckland!!!!!
The plan now is to sail direct for Rinca and re-examine our options after that. Either way we will be in Bali well ahead of the fleet timetable which should give us enough time to sort the problems.
More from us again soon...............
Jim and Jean
s,v, Tiare Taporo III
Kupang
W. Timor
Indonesia
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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