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We arrived at Medana Bay on Lombok last Sunday the 25th. We had left Pulau Padar just south of Pulau Komodo on the 22nd. with some intermediate anchorages in mind and plotted on the chart. We spent the first night on a mooring on the NE corner of Komodo along with "Pedoja". Then the next morning we said farewell to Don and Tanya who were going to Labuan Bajo on Pulau Flores and sailed westwards through a narrow passage just outside the bay. Fortunately the tide was with us as we went through but a little unnerving to see the rocky bottom clearly only 20' down! Couldn't have stopped if we'd wanted to!! Our intention then was to anchor that night at Pulau Banta 17 miles further on but when we attempted to go through Selat Sape to the anchorage on the southern side of Banta we struck fierce adverse tidal currents which were kicking up a nasty sea so turned around with difficulty and headed around the north side of Banta disappointed that we seemed unable to anchor that night. However, as we came past the island we saw that the water was calm on the west side so again tried to get to the anchorage. This time the current was with us but it was again so fierce we worried that we wouldn't be able to leave in the morning so again turned around resigned to sailing overnight. We had to then get past a tall supposedly still active volcano on the NE corner of Pulau Sumbawa called Sangean. Again without local knowledge we worried about currents in the selat between Sangean and Sumbawa so we added about 10 miles to our passage by going around the outside of Sangean. By then it was dark and there were fires burning ashore high up on the slopes of the volcano so obviously it is inhabited. Sumbawa is the next major island westwards from Komodo and Flores. There was another anchorage at Bima Town but because we were off there at 0100 we decided against approaching in the dark. Onwards once more. 68 miles further on we expected to anchor at Kanaga on the north coast of Sumbawa but when we got there it was a lee shore and appeared deep so shrugged our shoulders once more and carried on. The next hopeful anchorage was Pulau Medang where there is a shallowish patch off the SW corner. But we had a fight against the current in the selat between there and Sumbawa and, although we eventually did head towards the anchorage, we found at one stage less than 20' over the fringing reef which after several hundred feet of depth is somewhat bothersome! So, once again out to sea for one more overnight sail to Lombok. During that night we experienced a torrential rain storm but little wind and soon could see the shore lights on the NE coast of Lombok. We stayed at least 5 miles off the coast to avoid unlit fishing boats as we came around the north side of Lombok and then had the dawn coming up behind us and illuminating the high peaks (over 3,000 metres) of north Lombok. Considering that the sea depths reach around 1500 metres close in to the island, that is a net rise of nearly 5,000 metres from the sea floor in a distance of roughly 10-15 miles. Very impressive. We had the current in the Selat Lombok between here and Pulau Bali with us as we came down the NW coast so slowed right down so as to arrive off the entrance to Medana Bay in daylight. We arrived at the co-ordinates we had been given but could not see anything of leading marks onshore due to early morning light, smoke from cooking fires and a low mist. So rang poor Peter Cranfield (the marketing manager) who was then in Jakarta having a weekend off. We didn't realise that Jakarta time is 1 hour behind here so we were ringing him at 0600 on a Sunday morning!! He was surprisingly good humoured in the circumstances. We finally picked up the leading marks and gingerly came in but all was well and we picked up a mooring very close to a small marina which wasn't tenable for us due to a surge running through.
The whole passage was just over 270 miles and sad to say we motored for probably 60% of the time due to either adverse or no wind.
Our dinghy is working sufficiently to allow us to paddle ashore (only about 50 metres) before it starts to deflate again. We then pump it up for the return trip! We aren't game to risk the outboard as unlike us it can't swim - hence the paddling. But thanks to Peter we are expecting our new 2.0 metre Zodiac from Jakarta in 2-3 days. It will be sad to farewell our existing dinghy as it has served us well for the last 4 years in NZ, New Caledonia and Australia - only to be trashed in Kupang.
We decided to extend our Indonesian visas here rather than when the rally does it at Lovina on Bali. If that anchorage wasn't good we at least are now totally independent. However, anything to do with Indonesian bureaucracy is something of a nightmare and once again Peter and his staff - Ms Wulan and Ms. Ratih were indispensible. Wulan took our passports and delivered them to Immigration and then later we travelled by taxi (1 hour and 170,000 Rph - NZD20) to Mataram (pop. 500,000) which is the capital of Lombok. Immigration is in an imposing 2 story building but where you expect the front door appeared to be permanently shut. So, we went around the side where there were hundreds of locals waiting to be interviewed for a passport so that they can go and work in Malaysia and elsewhere. We pushed through the crowd and went upstairs where you sit and wait until they call you. Ms. Ratih duly arrived and harangued the officials until eventually we were called one by one to be fingerprinted and have our ugly mugshots taken. Absolutely ludicrous for 1 month's extension when the main application in Australia didn't require any of that. Anyway, that's Indonesia and it's no good getting all riled up. It was an education to watch the endless procession of people and the way the bureaucracy worked- or rather didn't.
Once clear of there we went on a fruitless search for a handheld VHF and then made our way to our hotel for the night - the Viktor 2. Very new and spotless but because it was a budget hotel it had no toilet paper or towels. However, we badgered them until we got some of the necessary!!
We walked up the road dodging horsecarts, motorbikes, people and traffic generally and stayed reasonably sane until we arrived at the Mataram Mall which is Mataram's shopping mecca. However, we weren't so impressed although Jean bought a Batik dress and Jim a couple of shirts. There were endless stalls along the street selling everything from fruit to incense sticks. Bought some Sandalwood sticks too as well as some fruit. Found a Chinese restaurant called Aroma and had quite a good nourishing meal and then early to bed. Only one pillow each which annoyed Jim! Breakfast the next morning was a cup of tea, two cold hard boiled eggs and some toast in a sandwich with melted chocolate inside. All included in the tariff of 200,000 Rph. Another walk around the town where we bought some provisions and cans of beer Bintang and then back in a taxi for the ride back to Medana. Lovely scenic road along the coast with extensive sea views. Halfway between here and Mataram is the seaside town of Sengiggi which is an Indonesian version of Paihia in the BOI, NZ. Bigger and of course much warmer and touristy - hence prices are much higher there. But a few days earlier we had had a very pleasant lunch at Sendok restaurant.
Medana is great. Anchorage can be a bit rolly at times but we've had worse. Ashore there is a small marina with berths arranged parallel to the beach but completely exposed to any swell coming in. There is the Sail Fish Cafe where everything happens and a large Bintang is 35,000 Rph. Meals which are good are at a similar price. The people are friendly and have been very helpful to us. On Friday we went with a German real estate developer (Martin) and a Brit expat real estate agent (Ian) to a property Martin owns just below a waterfall at about 300 metres altitude. He wants to sell but we just went along for the ride - definitely not interested in developing rural properties in Indonesia! We've both been there and done that in NZ.
We are planning some more shore excursions to a local market and also high up in the hills on the north side of Lombok - probably by bemo, the local small buses. Also the Gili Islands just 7 miles south of here will be visited on the boat in due course. The largest, Gili Trewangan is a party island with lots of girls (!) so we probably won't be going there!
Well, that's it for now - more fascinating news from us as it unfolds in due course.
Cheers and lotsaluv,
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Medana Bay
Lombok.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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Saturday 31 August 2013
Thursday 22 August 2013
On our way again - Telok Gili Lawa lat. 8 degrees 29.7' S long. 119 degrees 33.0' E
Only 15 miles today so an easy introduction to the next odyssey. Tide with us through the selat heading north - at times over 9 knots over the ground. Beautiful day with up to 15 knots of wind behind us so we romped up the strait between Komodo and Flores. As we came into the bay we expected that the bottom would shoal but we were in 80' of water just short of an impassable reef. Then a local boat approached us and pointed out some mooring buoys so we picked one of those up and it's a good anchorage - very quiet and calm. Just what we need. A bit stressful deciding where to anchor as the mooring buoys are very hard to see and all sorts of colours so one doesn't know whether they are navigation marks or moorings!
Running out of beer and wine but we still have plenty of duty free whisky so no problems! We'll know the final prognosis re the dinghy in the morning but it's looking hopeful for a suitable new dinghy once we get to Medana Bay on Lombok.
That's it from us for now..............
Lotsaluv
Jim and Jean
xoxoxoxoxoxo
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Running out of beer and wine but we still have plenty of duty free whisky so no problems! We'll know the final prognosis re the dinghy in the morning but it's looking hopeful for a suitable new dinghy once we get to Medana Bay on Lombok.
That's it from us for now..............
Lotsaluv
Jim and Jean
xoxoxoxoxoxo
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Wednesday 21 August 2013
Komodo
We are still anchored beside "Pedoja" at Pulau Padar opposite Komodo Is. Very peaceful and scenic with a white sand beach and towering arid hills behind. And necessary for us after all the worry and trauma of the last few days.
2 days ago we were taken across to Komodo (5 miles) on a local boat to see the famous Komodo dragons. The boat was about 20' long but less than 5' beam powered by a Chinese single cylinder engine which was very loud. We fortunately took 2 of our cockpit cushions because we sat on bare boards on a slightly raised part of the vessel. The trip took one hour so we were very glad to get there!
Once again we had the impression of the locals using every opportunity to extract money from visitors. They wanted payment for a guide, entry to the park, camera and for the yacht just being in the park. All in all the whole exercise cost us around one million rupiahs (NZD125) so not so bad as it included the boat ride - but just the attitude is annoying.
The "park" was very dry and scruffy and we wandered along some paths in search of dragons (really giant lizards). On the way we saw many Tamarind trees and tried the fruit - it grows in pods like beans. A tart but very refreshing taste. We then climbed a small hill and there was a dragon comatose in the sun. Only moved his head the whole time we were there. We didn't get too close because their bite is very toxic and usually causes death within 3 months or so!! Hardly the best way to go. We then headed back down to the park reception area and saw 2 more dragons but also comatose in the sun. After all the hype we found the whole exercise quite disappointing. Then went to the "restaurant" but all we could get was orange juice and beer. No food!!
Then it was time to return to the boat. By then the wind had piped up and was blowing straight into the bay. We set off in rough choppy water with the driver/owner, his father (who had been our guide) and 2 young boys. We took a lot of spray as we headed straight into the sea and apart from wetting us the spray goes straight through the deck into the bilge. One of the young lads bailed the bilge when the water level had risen too high! It was an experience that we were pleased that we had but overall we were very glad to be back.
Since then we have been having discussions with Don of "Pedoja" re repairs to the dinghy. Jim recalled that he had a tube of the wonder filler/glue - 5200. Having never used it before he hadn't thought of using it on the dinghy but Don reckoned it would work around the air filling valves where the damage had occurred. So, yesterday we applied it and in an hour or so we are going to see whether the dinghy holds air. Fingers crossed.
It's been partially successful but there is one valve still leaking so we have applied some more 5200 and hope that it holds. But it looks like a new dinghy very soon. We are leaving here today to start the passage to Lombok via overnight anchorages. A total of 262 miles.
Lotsaluv from us
Jim and Jean
xoxoxoxoxoxo
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2 days ago we were taken across to Komodo (5 miles) on a local boat to see the famous Komodo dragons. The boat was about 20' long but less than 5' beam powered by a Chinese single cylinder engine which was very loud. We fortunately took 2 of our cockpit cushions because we sat on bare boards on a slightly raised part of the vessel. The trip took one hour so we were very glad to get there!
Once again we had the impression of the locals using every opportunity to extract money from visitors. They wanted payment for a guide, entry to the park, camera and for the yacht just being in the park. All in all the whole exercise cost us around one million rupiahs (NZD125) so not so bad as it included the boat ride - but just the attitude is annoying.
The "park" was very dry and scruffy and we wandered along some paths in search of dragons (really giant lizards). On the way we saw many Tamarind trees and tried the fruit - it grows in pods like beans. A tart but very refreshing taste. We then climbed a small hill and there was a dragon comatose in the sun. Only moved his head the whole time we were there. We didn't get too close because their bite is very toxic and usually causes death within 3 months or so!! Hardly the best way to go. We then headed back down to the park reception area and saw 2 more dragons but also comatose in the sun. After all the hype we found the whole exercise quite disappointing. Then went to the "restaurant" but all we could get was orange juice and beer. No food!!
Then it was time to return to the boat. By then the wind had piped up and was blowing straight into the bay. We set off in rough choppy water with the driver/owner, his father (who had been our guide) and 2 young boys. We took a lot of spray as we headed straight into the sea and apart from wetting us the spray goes straight through the deck into the bilge. One of the young lads bailed the bilge when the water level had risen too high! It was an experience that we were pleased that we had but overall we were very glad to be back.
Since then we have been having discussions with Don of "Pedoja" re repairs to the dinghy. Jim recalled that he had a tube of the wonder filler/glue - 5200. Having never used it before he hadn't thought of using it on the dinghy but Don reckoned it would work around the air filling valves where the damage had occurred. So, yesterday we applied it and in an hour or so we are going to see whether the dinghy holds air. Fingers crossed.
It's been partially successful but there is one valve still leaking so we have applied some more 5200 and hope that it holds. But it looks like a new dinghy very soon. We are leaving here today to start the passage to Lombok via overnight anchorages. A total of 262 miles.
Lotsaluv from us
Jim and Jean
xoxoxoxoxoxo
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Monday 19 August 2013
Komodo (Pulau Padar) Lat. 8 degrees 39.7' S Long. 119 degrees 32.6' E
Yesterday on our way up from Rinja we saw a sail up ahead and it turned out to be Don and Tanya on the Canadian boat "Pedoja". We had a brief conversation on VHF and shouted across the water (!) and we said we'd follow them around the western end of Pulau Padar where we struck a vicious current and whirlpools and upwellings which knocked our speed and course around something terrible. However, soon through that and around the corner to a glorious white sand beach where we anchored alongside "Pedoja". Crystal clear water and in 7 metres we could clearly see the anchor. Swam off the boat during the afternoon and it was so refreshing not to have to worry about crocodiles and stingers! That night in the moonlight is was quite eerie seeing the bottom - more so than in daylight. It seemed as though we were floating in thin air. Later we made a green curry with chicken and took it over to "Pedoja" where we enjoyed the meal and wine and some good company.
Slept the sleep of the dead last night and woke this morning somewhat refreshed after our passage from Kupang. Possible change of plan again - we spent the morning working out a passage plan to Medana Bay and after today our plan is to get there as soon as possible. It means that we won't see any dragons but we are well past worrying about that. We just want to get the boat sorted. The passage involves 7 overnight stops between here and Medana and we are indebted to Bill of "Kullaroo" for the detailed information about the anchorages. We are looking forward to seeing the various areas. By contrast sail Indonesia only lists Labuan Bajo and then Medana but there are 262 miles in between!! They are not interested in the logistics - only the social events and the photo opportunities at the official stops. Certainly there is absolutely no information re any coastal passages and possible intermediate stops from Sail Indonesia. They are not sailors and have no concept of the practicalities of sailing. Quite apart from our own misfortunes, we have found them to be a hindrance rather than help and so we have determined that we will take the initiative and organise our own way forward from now on.
The anchorage here on Pulau Padar is just what the doctor ordered and so peaceful. We went ashore with Tanya earlier looking for dragons but didn't see any. Probably just as well because their bite can be lethal, being very poisonous. The scenery is dramatic with high volcanic hills all very eroded. There are deer and pigs here as well which would account for the erosion. The climate is very dry and it hasn't rained for us since we left Cairns! Lots of human generated rubbish as well on the otherwise pristine beach. We see it in the water all the time and it seems that like most of Asia everything just gets tossed into the environment with no thought of the consequences. The hillsides are brown and the more distant islands remind us vividly of the Purerua Peninsula in the Bay of Islands during a dry hot summer. Same rugged topography with the difference that almost everywhere they are steep to with very deep water close inshore. Makes anchoring difficult and it is necessary therefore to choose anchorages carefully.
Well, that's it from us for now - watch this space.
Lotsaluv from us,
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Padar
Indonesia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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Slept the sleep of the dead last night and woke this morning somewhat refreshed after our passage from Kupang. Possible change of plan again - we spent the morning working out a passage plan to Medana Bay and after today our plan is to get there as soon as possible. It means that we won't see any dragons but we are well past worrying about that. We just want to get the boat sorted. The passage involves 7 overnight stops between here and Medana and we are indebted to Bill of "Kullaroo" for the detailed information about the anchorages. We are looking forward to seeing the various areas. By contrast sail Indonesia only lists Labuan Bajo and then Medana but there are 262 miles in between!! They are not interested in the logistics - only the social events and the photo opportunities at the official stops. Certainly there is absolutely no information re any coastal passages and possible intermediate stops from Sail Indonesia. They are not sailors and have no concept of the practicalities of sailing. Quite apart from our own misfortunes, we have found them to be a hindrance rather than help and so we have determined that we will take the initiative and organise our own way forward from now on.
The anchorage here on Pulau Padar is just what the doctor ordered and so peaceful. We went ashore with Tanya earlier looking for dragons but didn't see any. Probably just as well because their bite can be lethal, being very poisonous. The scenery is dramatic with high volcanic hills all very eroded. There are deer and pigs here as well which would account for the erosion. The climate is very dry and it hasn't rained for us since we left Cairns! Lots of human generated rubbish as well on the otherwise pristine beach. We see it in the water all the time and it seems that like most of Asia everything just gets tossed into the environment with no thought of the consequences. The hillsides are brown and the more distant islands remind us vividly of the Purerua Peninsula in the Bay of Islands during a dry hot summer. Same rugged topography with the difference that almost everywhere they are steep to with very deep water close inshore. Makes anchoring difficult and it is necessary therefore to choose anchorages carefully.
Well, that's it from us for now - watch this space.
Lotsaluv from us,
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Padar
Indonesia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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Saturday 17 August 2013
Tiare Taporo III across the Savu Sea - Kupang, W. Timor to Rinja Is. Lat. 08 degrees 47.2' S Long. 119 degrees 39.0' E
We arrived here at the south side of Rinja Is. at 1100 today - it is now 1500. We are anchored in the passage between Pulau Nusakode and Rinja. It was a passage of 237 nautical miles and we covered it in 48 hours. An average speed of 4.93 knots which isn't bad considering that we had very little wind at the latter end of the passage and adverse currents at various stages. The tidal phenomenon is interesting. The tidal effects of the Indian Ocean and Timor Sea extend all the way to Indonesia and then rip through the passages (Selats) between the islands although the tidal range isn't huge up here. These tidal currents occur well out to sea as well and can impede or help to the tune of up to 2 knots which is significant when one's average speed is around 5 knots!!
A blow by blow account of the passage follows:
Day 1 (15/08) - said goodbye to "Poco Andante", "Capricorn Dancer", "Troutbridge" and "Calypso" and at 1100 motored away from Kupang with mixed feelings on a course of 284 true. We had had a very bad experience there where we could easily have lost the boat (had we not been on board) when "Kielba" dragged down on top of us and of course had all our various mechanical problems to sort out. On the other hand we met some great people both locally and off other boats. However, we must single out Matthew Tegger our diesel mechanic. He was a tower of strength and not only solved our fuel problem, but also temporarily repaired our windlass. He's been repairing various outboards as well and has a complete engine rebuild to do on one boat after their engine seized when it lost all its oil. Thank you Matthew. We hope we meet again. The other problem that we have is that our dinghy was trashed by local kids while on the beach at Kupang and so we must try to purchase another. We will probably leave the boat for a few days in the marina on Lombok and go to Benoa on Bali to do just that. In the meantime we are dinghyless which is cramping our style somewhat.
Anyway, back to passage making. We were supposed to have easterly quarter winds of around 8 knots but in fact the wind blew from the SW which meant we were on the wind for the first time for many a long day and we had a very pleasant sail in flat seas. A better angle than off the wind for this old girl. Then that night the wind started increasing so that it was necessary to reef the main! Later it increased still further so we finished the night with a double reefed main. Just how wrong can forecasts be.
Day 2 (16/08) - in the early hours the wind started dropping to below 10 knots so, as we needed to make power and water, we started the engine which ran faultlessly. At 0900 the wind started again from the SE this time so began sailing. Then later in the day the wind dropped again and an adverse tidal current was affecting us so on with the iron sail once again. As sunset approached we could see the south coast of Pulau Flores with some very majestic volcanic cones floating above the clouds. Very mystical and Balihai'ish!
That night picked up 2 ships on the AIS but neither a problem. We saw no local fishing boats - lit or unlit. However, no doubt that's a treat in store.
Day 3 (17/08) - feeling excited as the our ETA Rinja was now in sight. Both feeling very tired after all the exertions of Kupang as well as anxiety about the engine, but on that score we needn't have worried. We motored from the previous day all the way into Rinja. As the dawn came up the western end of Flores was clearly visible to starboard. Very rugged country with deep water (hundreds of metres) close inshore. Indeed all the way across the Savu Sea we had water depths well in excess of 2,500 metres. The volcanic nature of Indonesia was very apparent with many extinct (we hoped!) cones obvious. We carried on past the western end of Flores and soon saw Rinja looming up ahead. There is a horseshoe shaped channel between Rinja and Nusakode and we entered the eastern end at 1100. We had had a 2 knot current against us as we approached which lengthed things out somewhat. A very narrow entrance with over 100 metres water depth. Thank heavens for chart plotters once again although we noted that the chart plotter wasn't accurate here - up to 200 metres in error. The old adage about never coming into strange anchorages at night is so true. Only about 2 miles from there around the horseshoe corner to the anchorage where we thankfully managed to drop the anchor on sand clear of the rocky bottom. A cold beer and a siesta was then very much in order although Jean insisted on doing the washing first!
Nusakode reminded us very much of Kaikoura Is. on Great Barrier near Auckland. Very rugged and steep with a deep channel around 2 sides. Quite uncanny. It's blazingly hot here but the anchorage is delightful in 10 metres.
Tomorrow slight change of plan. We will go to Labuan Bajo on the western end of Flores - about 35 miles from here as we don't have a dinghy and we can probably get a ride ashore and go and see some Komodo dragons on a guided tour. After that we will coast hop ahead of the rest of Sail Indonesia to Lombok where hopefully we can organise a dinghy and final repairs to the windlass.
Keep watching this space........
Cheers and lots of love from us
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Rinja Is.
Indonesia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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A blow by blow account of the passage follows:
Day 1 (15/08) - said goodbye to "Poco Andante", "Capricorn Dancer", "Troutbridge" and "Calypso" and at 1100 motored away from Kupang with mixed feelings on a course of 284 true. We had had a very bad experience there where we could easily have lost the boat (had we not been on board) when "Kielba" dragged down on top of us and of course had all our various mechanical problems to sort out. On the other hand we met some great people both locally and off other boats. However, we must single out Matthew Tegger our diesel mechanic. He was a tower of strength and not only solved our fuel problem, but also temporarily repaired our windlass. He's been repairing various outboards as well and has a complete engine rebuild to do on one boat after their engine seized when it lost all its oil. Thank you Matthew. We hope we meet again. The other problem that we have is that our dinghy was trashed by local kids while on the beach at Kupang and so we must try to purchase another. We will probably leave the boat for a few days in the marina on Lombok and go to Benoa on Bali to do just that. In the meantime we are dinghyless which is cramping our style somewhat.
Anyway, back to passage making. We were supposed to have easterly quarter winds of around 8 knots but in fact the wind blew from the SW which meant we were on the wind for the first time for many a long day and we had a very pleasant sail in flat seas. A better angle than off the wind for this old girl. Then that night the wind started increasing so that it was necessary to reef the main! Later it increased still further so we finished the night with a double reefed main. Just how wrong can forecasts be.
Day 2 (16/08) - in the early hours the wind started dropping to below 10 knots so, as we needed to make power and water, we started the engine which ran faultlessly. At 0900 the wind started again from the SE this time so began sailing. Then later in the day the wind dropped again and an adverse tidal current was affecting us so on with the iron sail once again. As sunset approached we could see the south coast of Pulau Flores with some very majestic volcanic cones floating above the clouds. Very mystical and Balihai'ish!
That night picked up 2 ships on the AIS but neither a problem. We saw no local fishing boats - lit or unlit. However, no doubt that's a treat in store.
Day 3 (17/08) - feeling excited as the our ETA Rinja was now in sight. Both feeling very tired after all the exertions of Kupang as well as anxiety about the engine, but on that score we needn't have worried. We motored from the previous day all the way into Rinja. As the dawn came up the western end of Flores was clearly visible to starboard. Very rugged country with deep water (hundreds of metres) close inshore. Indeed all the way across the Savu Sea we had water depths well in excess of 2,500 metres. The volcanic nature of Indonesia was very apparent with many extinct (we hoped!) cones obvious. We carried on past the western end of Flores and soon saw Rinja looming up ahead. There is a horseshoe shaped channel between Rinja and Nusakode and we entered the eastern end at 1100. We had had a 2 knot current against us as we approached which lengthed things out somewhat. A very narrow entrance with over 100 metres water depth. Thank heavens for chart plotters once again although we noted that the chart plotter wasn't accurate here - up to 200 metres in error. The old adage about never coming into strange anchorages at night is so true. Only about 2 miles from there around the horseshoe corner to the anchorage where we thankfully managed to drop the anchor on sand clear of the rocky bottom. A cold beer and a siesta was then very much in order although Jean insisted on doing the washing first!
Nusakode reminded us very much of Kaikoura Is. on Great Barrier near Auckland. Very rugged and steep with a deep channel around 2 sides. Quite uncanny. It's blazingly hot here but the anchorage is delightful in 10 metres.
Tomorrow slight change of plan. We will go to Labuan Bajo on the western end of Flores - about 35 miles from here as we don't have a dinghy and we can probably get a ride ashore and go and see some Komodo dragons on a guided tour. After that we will coast hop ahead of the rest of Sail Indonesia to Lombok where hopefully we can organise a dinghy and final repairs to the windlass.
Keep watching this space........
Cheers and lots of love from us
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Rinja Is.
Indonesia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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Monday 12 August 2013
Fwd: Sail Indonesia - Tiare Taporo III - NZ Registration NZ 1572
To: "Sail Indonesia" <mail@sailindonesia.net>
Subject: Sail Indonesia - Tiare Taporo III - NZ Registration NZ 1572
Date: 12 Aug 2013 12:34:38 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi to everyone,
We are sending this email because we wish to set the record straight as regards the incident that occurred here at Kupang soon after we arrived when "Kielba" dragged her anchor and collided with us. There are other matters that we will mention here as well. In particular we wish to note in the strongest possible terms our extreme disappointment with some other boats who took it upon themselves to berate us on the radio anonymously. If you have something to say the least you can do is identify yourself.
We came into the anchorage without engine in over 30 knots of wind and "Camomile" kindly offered to co-ordinate appropriate assistance. Kevin off "Tintin" came on board outside the anchorage to assist with sail handling. It was unfortunate that due to a misunderstanding we anchored where we were told by Kevin when in fact there were some dinghies waiting for us further in to tow us to a more appropriate anchorage. In the event we anchored well astern of "Kielba" in 35 metres of water which was far too deep. In spite of this, we held position. Then, about 2 hours later we noticed that "Kielba" was moving in our direction. There was no-one on board. We broadcast an SOS on VHF 77 and then tried to fend her off. "Kielba" is 56' so much bigger than us and in the conditions (1 metre waves and 25-30 knots of wind) the situation was extremely dangerous. "Kielba" hit us several times on our starboard side bending 2 stanchions, breaking our top lifeline, bending a pin rail upwards and causing possible damage to our starboard capshroud. Fortunately dinghies from at least 4 other boats arrived and fended her off further before our starboard solar panel and windvane self steering were smashed. But it was very close and the risk of serious injury to us was very real.
We are convinced that, had we not been on board, "Kielba" would have been lost and probably also our boat as not very far behind the water deepens to over 100 metres and they would both have taken off with anchors entwined.
We must in particular make mention of the expert help we received in a very difficult situation and in that regard must mention Gene of the American boat "Reflections". He towed us into our present anchorage with his dinghy the next morning after "Kielba" had successfully retrieved
their own anchor. And a Swiss boat "Nikkona" lent us their petrol generator to keep our batteries up until we could start and run our engine again.
You have to understand that we were both exhausted after a 4 day passage from Darwin and in no state to handle the situation adequately. Jim (the skipper) was on the foredeck attending to the anchor and therefore not aware of the depth when we let the anchor go.
After the near miss with "Kielba" Jim completely understandably had a bit to say to Sail Indonesia about the Kupang anchorage and subsequent experience hasn't changed that opinion. We were both completely traumatised and it was completely inappropriate for other boats who had no business doing so to comment anonymously on his remarks. Jim was somewhat and understandably fired up at the time but does not for one moment regret or withdraw anything said on VHF 77 that afternoon.
We are of the opinion that Kupang is a potentially dangerous anchorage, particularly when there are 60-70 boats all vying for space. Our experience proves that assertion. Just what that means for Sail Indonesia we are not sure, but some drastic changes to the rally format should be made before a real tragedy occurs.
It was not our fault that our engine developed a problem; we had it all checked out before we left Darwin. So much for Aussie so-called marine engineers. On that note we have to say that we have been fortunate to contact an extremely capable and resourceful local mechanic who has been a tower of strength so that we are now ready to carry on, albeit not with the rally due to our windlass still working but leaking oil, probably as a result of retrieving our anchor from 35 metres in adverse conditions. We are hoping to have that repaired when we are at Benoa.
We would also note that it was all very well to have the "beach boys" to assist with landing through the surf on the beach below Teddy's Bar but we paid 50,000 Rph per day for the privilege. This was supposed to include a watch over the dinghies while on the beach but after a few days our dinghy was trashed by the local kids with the "minders" obviously not doing their job. Our dinghy has been damaged so badly that we cannot repair it ourselves and we are hoping that we can get it repaired at Benoa on Bali. If not we will no doubt have to purchase another. Obviously this will affect our participation in further rally events.
We also mention the fact that since the main rally fleet departed from Kupang diesel fuel is now available at 11,000 Rph per litre and will be delivered to your boat, whereas when the rally was here the price was 14,000 Rph per litre and you had to take your own containers to shore and back again. How is that justified?
In short we feel very badly let down by Sail Indonesia. From our experience and observations, it seems to us that while not deriding the friendliness and hospitalty shown to us by individuals, the rally events, including the "Gala Dinner" at Kupang where a substantial number of rally participants contracted various forms of gastric disease (not us fortunately!), are predominantly arranged to showcase Indonesia and have very little to do with the rally participants, as long as they are present to make everything "look good" with the local dignitaries. In particular, sailing directions are thin on the ground and so individually we have had to independently gather what information we can. Even something as simple as tide tables are not available unless one goes to a British Admiralty website and pays for the information. We don't all have I-Pads!
We are proceeding direct to Rinja and Komodo and then, depending on our windlass, will make the decision whether to proceed to Benoa via the northern or southern route.
We hope to see you all again soon.
Regards,
Jim Donald and Jean Tallentire
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Kupang
W Timor
Indonesia
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Subject: Sail Indonesia - Tiare Taporo III - NZ Registration NZ 1572
Date: 12 Aug 2013 12:34:38 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi to everyone,
We are sending this email because we wish to set the record straight as regards the incident that occurred here at Kupang soon after we arrived when "Kielba" dragged her anchor and collided with us. There are other matters that we will mention here as well. In particular we wish to note in the strongest possible terms our extreme disappointment with some other boats who took it upon themselves to berate us on the radio anonymously. If you have something to say the least you can do is identify yourself.
We came into the anchorage without engine in over 30 knots of wind and "Camomile" kindly offered to co-ordinate appropriate assistance. Kevin off "Tintin" came on board outside the anchorage to assist with sail handling. It was unfortunate that due to a misunderstanding we anchored where we were told by Kevin when in fact there were some dinghies waiting for us further in to tow us to a more appropriate anchorage. In the event we anchored well astern of "Kielba" in 35 metres of water which was far too deep. In spite of this, we held position. Then, about 2 hours later we noticed that "Kielba" was moving in our direction. There was no-one on board. We broadcast an SOS on VHF 77 and then tried to fend her off. "Kielba" is 56' so much bigger than us and in the conditions (1 metre waves and 25-30 knots of wind) the situation was extremely dangerous. "Kielba" hit us several times on our starboard side bending 2 stanchions, breaking our top lifeline, bending a pin rail upwards and causing possible damage to our starboard capshroud. Fortunately dinghies from at least 4 other boats arrived and fended her off further before our starboard solar panel and windvane self steering were smashed. But it was very close and the risk of serious injury to us was very real.
We are convinced that, had we not been on board, "Kielba" would have been lost and probably also our boat as not very far behind the water deepens to over 100 metres and they would both have taken off with anchors entwined.
We must in particular make mention of the expert help we received in a very difficult situation and in that regard must mention Gene of the American boat "Reflections". He towed us into our present anchorage with his dinghy the next morning after "Kielba" had successfully retrieved
their own anchor. And a Swiss boat "Nikkona" lent us their petrol generator to keep our batteries up until we could start and run our engine again.
You have to understand that we were both exhausted after a 4 day passage from Darwin and in no state to handle the situation adequately. Jim (the skipper) was on the foredeck attending to the anchor and therefore not aware of the depth when we let the anchor go.
After the near miss with "Kielba" Jim completely understandably had a bit to say to Sail Indonesia about the Kupang anchorage and subsequent experience hasn't changed that opinion. We were both completely traumatised and it was completely inappropriate for other boats who had no business doing so to comment anonymously on his remarks. Jim was somewhat and understandably fired up at the time but does not for one moment regret or withdraw anything said on VHF 77 that afternoon.
We are of the opinion that Kupang is a potentially dangerous anchorage, particularly when there are 60-70 boats all vying for space. Our experience proves that assertion. Just what that means for Sail Indonesia we are not sure, but some drastic changes to the rally format should be made before a real tragedy occurs.
It was not our fault that our engine developed a problem; we had it all checked out before we left Darwin. So much for Aussie so-called marine engineers. On that note we have to say that we have been fortunate to contact an extremely capable and resourceful local mechanic who has been a tower of strength so that we are now ready to carry on, albeit not with the rally due to our windlass still working but leaking oil, probably as a result of retrieving our anchor from 35 metres in adverse conditions. We are hoping to have that repaired when we are at Benoa.
We would also note that it was all very well to have the "beach boys" to assist with landing through the surf on the beach below Teddy's Bar but we paid 50,000 Rph per day for the privilege. This was supposed to include a watch over the dinghies while on the beach but after a few days our dinghy was trashed by the local kids with the "minders" obviously not doing their job. Our dinghy has been damaged so badly that we cannot repair it ourselves and we are hoping that we can get it repaired at Benoa on Bali. If not we will no doubt have to purchase another. Obviously this will affect our participation in further rally events.
We also mention the fact that since the main rally fleet departed from Kupang diesel fuel is now available at 11,000 Rph per litre and will be delivered to your boat, whereas when the rally was here the price was 14,000 Rph per litre and you had to take your own containers to shore and back again. How is that justified?
In short we feel very badly let down by Sail Indonesia. From our experience and observations, it seems to us that while not deriding the friendliness and hospitalty shown to us by individuals, the rally events, including the "Gala Dinner" at Kupang where a substantial number of rally participants contracted various forms of gastric disease (not us fortunately!), are predominantly arranged to showcase Indonesia and have very little to do with the rally participants, as long as they are present to make everything "look good" with the local dignitaries. In particular, sailing directions are thin on the ground and so individually we have had to independently gather what information we can. Even something as simple as tide tables are not available unless one goes to a British Admiralty website and pays for the information. We don't all have I-Pads!
We are proceeding direct to Rinja and Komodo and then, depending on our windlass, will make the decision whether to proceed to Benoa via the northern or southern route.
We hope to see you all again soon.
Regards,
Jim Donald and Jean Tallentire
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Kupang
W Timor
Indonesia
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Friday 9 August 2013
Fwd: Still at Kupang. W. Timor
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Fwd: Still at Kupang. W. Timor
Date: 09 Aug 2013 13:14:55 -0000
From: zmq5985
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Still at Kupang. W. Timor
Date: 09 Aug 2013 13:10:00 -0000
From: zmq5985
This place has had mixed fortunes for us, that's for sure. We've been here for 9 days now with various problems relating to the boat - the fuel problem already mentioned, the windlass which took a beating pulling up our chain from 90 metres after we had been hit by the boat which dragged down on top of us and now our dinghy which has been trashed by local kids jumping up and down on the pontoons when it has been on the beach and damaging the valves where the air is pumped in. And now our salt water raw water pump is weeping water - but we have a spare.
Fortunately we have been introduced to "Matthew" who is a local mechanic and a jack of all trades as you have to be here. He has fixed the fuel issue by installing an electric fuel pump to bypass the mechanical lift pump we had. This however isn't as simple as it sounds. Matthew organised a taxi (which he drove himself because he said the taxi drivers were too slow!!) and off we went to find a pump plus fuel hose and fittings. Only supposed to take half an hour but 4 hours later...........only in Kupang which, like most Asian cities is to us completely chaotic and disorganised. One can't get impatient however - that certainly doesn't help.
Then there's the issue of getting ashore and back to the boat. There is normally quite a big surf on the beach just in front of Teddy's Bar and the beach boys are there to grab the dinghy and hold it while you tumble out - hopefully without tipping up into the waves. Then it's 50,000 Rph (NZD6.25) per 24 hrs. for looking after the dinghy while one goes about one's business. However, they didn't stop the local kids from trashing the dinghy and we now have an unusable dinghy which we are in the process of repairing - hopefully successfully. We won't know the outcome until tomorrow when we gingerly try pumping some air into it to see whether it holds. If it doesn't work that will drastically affect our plans and we will sail as direct as possible for Benoa Marina on Bali where we may be able to get another dinghy - but that's 500 miles from here.
The anchorage here is far from ideal. Part of the stress comes about from leaving the boat and watching her rearing up and down on the waves and wondering whether she'll be there when we return but thanks to the Rocna she always has been. The wind gets up to 20 knots across the anchorage during the day which sets up quite a sea, but always quietens down in the evening so there is some respite. Then we have the Muezzin ashore at the mosque calling the faithful to prayer and that starts through loudspeakers at 4 in the morning as well!!
2 days ago we identified a problem with our windlass and actually removed it from the boat and took it to Matthew's workshop - which is really just an area of broken concrete under the trees with his house at the rear. Many broken down vehicles and motorcycles most of which look as they would never be mobile again but he is a most resourceful and knowledgeable guy and our faith in him has grown exponentially. His latest bill to us was 2 million Rupiah which is NZD250 which we thought was most reasonable. The windlass now has a problem with leaking oil which we suspect resulted from the beating it took in the last few days but this along with the dinghy problem almost certainly means that we will have to miss the north coasts of Flores and Sumbawa but hopefully we can take in some anchorages in the Rinca Group and Komodo. Apparently Rinca is where we should see the famous dragons in the wild - Komodo itself is very commercialised. After that our focus is Bali and the Benoa Marina where we should be able to get the windlass repaired totally and maybe buy another dinghy.
Bali is 500 miles from here so not just a day sail. Maybe from the foregoing you can understand the stress which has built up of late - yesterday and today we really couldn't have gone safely anywhere so just as well there is some forced respite.
With the dinghy out of action we have the services of Raleigh who has a large tinny with a 60 hp. outboard who has delivered fuel to us (much cheaper than the outrageous Sail Indonesia price) and he will take us ashore if we want to go. So, it's not all bad but we do want to be free of this place so we can enjoy at least some of Indonesia. Having said that, our focus has always been Malaysia and that's uppermost in our minds. After Bali there are still some attractive places to go so hopefully we can take advantage of that.
The stress levels are diminishing but it's extraordinary how we have coped. First leaving the boat at the mercy of a 9mm chain and 25 kg. Rocna and 1 metre swell, then landing on a surf swept beach and hurtling through the congested streets of Kupang in search of the necessary items. Teddy's Bar where we land in the dinghy has been a source of refreshment (a 620 ml. bottle of Bintang beer for 35,000 Rph - NZD4.40 - so everything reasonably priced.) The average meal is 50,000 (Nasi Goreng) so quite a bit cheaper than Parnhell in Auckland!!!!!
The plan now is to sail direct for Rinca and re-examine our options after that. Either way we will be in Bali well ahead of the fleet timetable which should give us enough time to sort the problems.
More from us again soon...............
Jim and Jean
s,v, Tiare Taporo III
Kupang
W. Timor
Indonesia
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----- End of Original Message -----
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Subject: Fwd: Still at Kupang. W. Timor
Date: 09 Aug 2013 13:14:55 -0000
From: zmq5985
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Still at Kupang. W. Timor
Date: 09 Aug 2013 13:10:00 -0000
From: zmq5985
This place has had mixed fortunes for us, that's for sure. We've been here for 9 days now with various problems relating to the boat - the fuel problem already mentioned, the windlass which took a beating pulling up our chain from 90 metres after we had been hit by the boat which dragged down on top of us and now our dinghy which has been trashed by local kids jumping up and down on the pontoons when it has been on the beach and damaging the valves where the air is pumped in. And now our salt water raw water pump is weeping water - but we have a spare.
Fortunately we have been introduced to "Matthew" who is a local mechanic and a jack of all trades as you have to be here. He has fixed the fuel issue by installing an electric fuel pump to bypass the mechanical lift pump we had. This however isn't as simple as it sounds. Matthew organised a taxi (which he drove himself because he said the taxi drivers were too slow!!) and off we went to find a pump plus fuel hose and fittings. Only supposed to take half an hour but 4 hours later...........only in Kupang which, like most Asian cities is to us completely chaotic and disorganised. One can't get impatient however - that certainly doesn't help.
Then there's the issue of getting ashore and back to the boat. There is normally quite a big surf on the beach just in front of Teddy's Bar and the beach boys are there to grab the dinghy and hold it while you tumble out - hopefully without tipping up into the waves. Then it's 50,000 Rph (NZD6.25) per 24 hrs. for looking after the dinghy while one goes about one's business. However, they didn't stop the local kids from trashing the dinghy and we now have an unusable dinghy which we are in the process of repairing - hopefully successfully. We won't know the outcome until tomorrow when we gingerly try pumping some air into it to see whether it holds. If it doesn't work that will drastically affect our plans and we will sail as direct as possible for Benoa Marina on Bali where we may be able to get another dinghy - but that's 500 miles from here.
The anchorage here is far from ideal. Part of the stress comes about from leaving the boat and watching her rearing up and down on the waves and wondering whether she'll be there when we return but thanks to the Rocna she always has been. The wind gets up to 20 knots across the anchorage during the day which sets up quite a sea, but always quietens down in the evening so there is some respite. Then we have the Muezzin ashore at the mosque calling the faithful to prayer and that starts through loudspeakers at 4 in the morning as well!!
2 days ago we identified a problem with our windlass and actually removed it from the boat and took it to Matthew's workshop - which is really just an area of broken concrete under the trees with his house at the rear. Many broken down vehicles and motorcycles most of which look as they would never be mobile again but he is a most resourceful and knowledgeable guy and our faith in him has grown exponentially. His latest bill to us was 2 million Rupiah which is NZD250 which we thought was most reasonable. The windlass now has a problem with leaking oil which we suspect resulted from the beating it took in the last few days but this along with the dinghy problem almost certainly means that we will have to miss the north coasts of Flores and Sumbawa but hopefully we can take in some anchorages in the Rinca Group and Komodo. Apparently Rinca is where we should see the famous dragons in the wild - Komodo itself is very commercialised. After that our focus is Bali and the Benoa Marina where we should be able to get the windlass repaired totally and maybe buy another dinghy.
Bali is 500 miles from here so not just a day sail. Maybe from the foregoing you can understand the stress which has built up of late - yesterday and today we really couldn't have gone safely anywhere so just as well there is some forced respite.
With the dinghy out of action we have the services of Raleigh who has a large tinny with a 60 hp. outboard who has delivered fuel to us (much cheaper than the outrageous Sail Indonesia price) and he will take us ashore if we want to go. So, it's not all bad but we do want to be free of this place so we can enjoy at least some of Indonesia. Having said that, our focus has always been Malaysia and that's uppermost in our minds. After Bali there are still some attractive places to go so hopefully we can take advantage of that.
The stress levels are diminishing but it's extraordinary how we have coped. First leaving the boat at the mercy of a 9mm chain and 25 kg. Rocna and 1 metre swell, then landing on a surf swept beach and hurtling through the congested streets of Kupang in search of the necessary items. Teddy's Bar where we land in the dinghy has been a source of refreshment (a 620 ml. bottle of Bintang beer for 35,000 Rph - NZD4.40 - so everything reasonably priced.) The average meal is 50,000 (Nasi Goreng) so quite a bit cheaper than Parnhell in Auckland!!!!!
The plan now is to sail direct for Rinca and re-examine our options after that. Either way we will be in Bali well ahead of the fleet timetable which should give us enough time to sort the problems.
More from us again soon...............
Jim and Jean
s,v, Tiare Taporo III
Kupang
W. Timor
Indonesia
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----- End of Original Message -----
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Friday 2 August 2013
Darwin to Kupang, Indonesia 27th. July to 31st July Lat. 10 degrees 9.7' S Long. 123 degrees 34.3' E
We had our appointment for opening the lock gates at Tipperary Waters Marina at 0745 and said our final goodbyes to Keith, the Lockmaster who had been so helpful with information on Indonesian anchorages etc. Our friend, Neil had been to see us the day before and we thanked him again for making his car available to us at times. It was an invaluable help. We slipped out through the lock into Frances Bay Creek and headed for the channel buoys. No concern about water depth as the tidal range had increased to about 6 metres and the tide was coming in.
We motored around to Fannie Bay and were off there at 0900. The official "start" was not until 1100 and we were not keen to be part of that bunfight with 80 odd other boats all in close proximity. In fact there was a collision between 2 of the yachts at "start" time. So we simply kept going in a smoky haze - caused by the incomprehensible Aboriginal habit of starting large bush fires. Course 284 true. Very light winds all day so motorsailed. Darwin dropped astern in the smoke.
Day 2 28/7 - still very light wind, albeit behind us. Motorsailing but during the afternoon the wind picked up to 10 knots! Sailing with the genoa poled out on port side. Wing and wing. We are still under the influence of the strong Northern Territory tides even half way to Timor in the Timor Sea so when the tide turned in the early afternoon we motorsailed again to counteract the tide.
Day 3 29/7 - wind seemed to be slowly increasing all the time so moving somewhat better - back to 4-5 knots instead of the previous 1-3 without the motor! Using the UPS at sea for the 1st. time and we seem to be going a bit better. However, had to change back to the genoa as the wind piped up to 17 knots in the afternoon.
Day 4 30/7 - not a good day. The engine died with air in the fuel. No matter how many times Jim bled the system it would run for a few minutes and then stop again. Changed a fuel filter which wasn't necessary but even then it still wouldn't run. Helpful advice from other yachts and one - "Calypso" - even came alongside and threw us a bag containing extra fuel lines with the suggestion that we jury rig a header tank but the thought of an open 10 litre container of diesel (even lashed down) in the cabin with all the rolling we were doing wasn't an attractive one! So, we just decided that as there wasn't a huge distance to go (53 miles to our first waypoint), we would just sail - as a sailing vessel should!! But not much wind for some hours.
Day 5 31/7 - in the early hours we saw a large ship ("Ocean Swagman") on our AIS coming up astern at 17.5 knots and we were somewhat concerned until we made contact on VHF and established that they had seen us. As the dawn came up we could see Timor ahead and very relieved that the passage end was in sight. We continued sailing towards the strait (selat) between Pulau (Is.) Timor and Roti and then at 0900 turned to starboard for the 15 mile sail up the strait. By then the wind was increasing and for the rest of the 15 mile distance in Selat Roti we fair screamed along - over 7 knots at times. Very deep water over 200 feet. Passed a couple of other rally yachts as we hooned along. Tiare (or "Reflections of Wellington" as she was then) was reliving her old racing days in Cook Strait out of Wellington!! We enjoyed the sail which would have been good if we were just out for the day, but with the ocean passage just behind us and what was to come we were KNACKERED!!! We also could not come head to wind to reef the main as we had no working engine so just had to continue hooning along.
However, the real sailing test was yet to come because we had arranged to be towed into the anchorage as we had no engine. We had to tack as the wind was starting to head us and then came around the point before the anchorage. We had to beat out to sea to come abreast of where the other yachts were and then came around onto port tack as the wind built to over 30 knots!! We had thought we were arriving in windless Indonesia. We furled the genoa on the way in but still couldn't slow the old girl down. Anyway we came head to wind to allow someone from another boat to come on board to help Jean with the main and then continued in. As we approached the outer part of the anchorage we were told to drop the anchor after the main was doused which we did. But, it turned out to be in 35 metres of water and we only carry 100 metres so not a very good scope ratio. It was very choppy with a big swell and we were very unhappy with our situation. We were soon to become very much more unhappy. An Australian 56' yacht upwind of us with no-one on board suddenly started to drag down towards us. This has never happened to us before and it is somewhat terrifying as the drama all unfolds in slow motion and there is absolutely nothing you can do about it. If we'd had an operative engine maybe we could have manoeuvered sideways but of course we did not have an engine on call. For a few seconds we thought there was a chance she would drag across our bows and come clear on our starboard side but as she came across she started closing the gap and we were then trying to fend off a much bigger yacht than us in 30 knot winds and at least a 1 metre swell. As she rose and fell on the waves she struck us several times. It was a highly dangerous and fraught situation with huge potential for serious injury. We'd both been up since the small hours and then had sailed in strong winds for some hours and were not equipped mentally or physically for this horrendous situation. Fortunately Jim had put out a distress call over the Sail Indonesia net on VHF 77 and so as she moved down our side several dinghies appeared with powerful motors. They managed to force her away from us otherwise our solar panel and our self steering gear on the stern would certainly have been smashed. It was a very close thing. They then managed to board her and let out more chain which took her clear. Then we had the almost certain situation where her anchor chain would have been across ours and maybe the anchors entwined as well. We ended up quite traumatised as you could imagine. Jim went onto the VHF again and lambasted Sail Indonesia for using Kupang as a rally anchorage. He said it was highly dangerous and should never be promoted as a rally stop - much less for clearing in. These comments are absolutely true and will be repeated on other cruising websites. We then spent a very anxious and sleepless night which was exactly what we did not need after the days we'd had.
Several cruisers who could not mind their own business took issue with Jim's comments and he publicly called one cruiser's comments "BOLLOCKS"!!!! All good stuff.
Day 6 01/08 - come daylight we were still in the same place and the wind had dropped so it was decided that "Kielba" (the boat that dragged down on us) would pick up their anchor first while Gene from an American boat ("Reflections") was lashed alongside us as a tug in his dinghy. The help we had just blew us away and was so much appreciated. Fortunately "Kielba" eventually picked up their anchor without dragging ours up with it and so we began the laborious process of hauling in 90 metres of chain and anchor which severely taxed our windlass. It came up in the end much to our relief and Gene towed us further inshore where we are now. Much more sheltered and a reasonable 7 metres to re-anchor in. It turns out that Simon (the owner of "Kielba") is a diesel mechanic and he has offered to sort our engine problem. He and his wife Kim and young son Jolyn are very pleasant people and it was not their fault that the dragging incident occurred. Just one of those things and probably the result of their anchor landing on a pile of plastic bags and clothes which litter the bottom here. Our damage is yet to be properly assessed but at this stage appears to be limited to a broken top lifeline, a displaced pin rail and a bent stanchion aft. Possible damage to standing rigging but that is much more difficult to assess. We will just have to treat the rig carefully until we are at Bali where there are rigging facilities.
In the midst of all this we still had to clear Indonesian Customs and after we had re-anchored we had a visitation from 6 or 8 officials. Customs, quarantine and immigration. We had been well briefed and told to have heaps of copies of all documents. Boat registration, crew list, passports, vaccination certificates, etc etc. The vaccination certificate was a real hoot because Jean had hers from her visit to India 12 years ago and all official looking in its bound book. They carefully examined it and were really impressed. Anything which has an official look about it and lots of official rubber stamps goes down a treat. We were constantly asked whether we had a boat stamp and when we said no, they were most disappointed. We will get one made however because this country and others run on the remnants of their colonial heritage and the Dutch appear to have done a good job of building up a bureaucracy steeped in the past - pre computer. Our cruising permit issued in Jakarta looks as though it was typed on a really ancient typewriter. They love paper and stamps it seems. After the visitation aboard we then had to go ashore and virtually go through the whole process again moving around a U shaped arrangement of tables giving out copies of everything again. Towards the end it became quite hilarious with Jean having them in fits of laughter!!
Kupang is a city at the southern end of Timor and from what we have seen so far is a dusty collection of ramshackle buildings. Getting ashore on the beach is not fun as there is a swell running which almost capsized our little dinghy. However, once ashore the beach boys come running and hold the dinghy while you jump out in the surf. They then carry it up the beach. 50,000 Rupiahs (approx. NZD6-7) for looking after the dinghy all day and ensuring nothing gets stolen! Teddy's Bar is the rally watering hole and is somewhat expensive (35,000 Rupiahs - NZD4.40) for a 600 ml bottle of local beer - Bintang - and very good. We are looking forward to checking out some other watering holes.
The next rally stop is on the island (Pulau) of Alor but due to our problems still not fixed we have decided to bypass Alor and go direct to Pulau Kawula which is the 2nd stop and will take a lot of the time pressure from us. This cuts out many miles and we don't think we will be missing much. Hopefully we'll finally sail from here in a relaxed frame of mind.
We haven't been ashore today as Simon from "Kielba" has been aboard trying to track down our engine problem. We are getting close and as this is typed the engine has been running for over an hour making water and power. Fingers crossed. It does appear that the problem (for those of you with a mechanical bent) is that the secondary fuel filter is being starved of fuel (2/3 empty) and this causes the engine to stop. Can't see why this is happening but no doubt the morrow will produce some more progress with the problem. The engine has just stopped after an hour and a quarter but will have made considerable water and power so the situation is not so fraught. Hopefully we'll sort it finally tomorrow.
Finally we must acknowledge the help we have had arising from our predicament - certainly NOT helped by Sail Indonesia. Sue on a British boat "Camomile" coordinated the help with getting us into the anchorage although it was unfortunate that we were told to anchor so far out with the consequences that have already been described. Simon from "Kielba" has been a tower of strength and has almost solved our engine problem. Gene from "Reflections" saved us from more damage in the dragging incident and others have offered their help as well. We must also mention Georg and Manuela from the German boat "Sternchen" who, along with their German Swiss friend Peter have made available a power generator which we have been using to keep our batteries up which in turn power everything on board including our refrigeration. This is what the cruising life is all about and we hope that we can reciprocate in the future. We should also mention Peter of "2XS" who typed out and copied sufficient copies of our crewlists in the nick of time. So, there are some benefits of cruising with a rally.
Well, that's it for now. Things can only improve on the morrow.
Lotsaluv from us.............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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We motored around to Fannie Bay and were off there at 0900. The official "start" was not until 1100 and we were not keen to be part of that bunfight with 80 odd other boats all in close proximity. In fact there was a collision between 2 of the yachts at "start" time. So we simply kept going in a smoky haze - caused by the incomprehensible Aboriginal habit of starting large bush fires. Course 284 true. Very light winds all day so motorsailed. Darwin dropped astern in the smoke.
Day 2 28/7 - still very light wind, albeit behind us. Motorsailing but during the afternoon the wind picked up to 10 knots! Sailing with the genoa poled out on port side. Wing and wing. We are still under the influence of the strong Northern Territory tides even half way to Timor in the Timor Sea so when the tide turned in the early afternoon we motorsailed again to counteract the tide.
Day 3 29/7 - wind seemed to be slowly increasing all the time so moving somewhat better - back to 4-5 knots instead of the previous 1-3 without the motor! Using the UPS at sea for the 1st. time and we seem to be going a bit better. However, had to change back to the genoa as the wind piped up to 17 knots in the afternoon.
Day 4 30/7 - not a good day. The engine died with air in the fuel. No matter how many times Jim bled the system it would run for a few minutes and then stop again. Changed a fuel filter which wasn't necessary but even then it still wouldn't run. Helpful advice from other yachts and one - "Calypso" - even came alongside and threw us a bag containing extra fuel lines with the suggestion that we jury rig a header tank but the thought of an open 10 litre container of diesel (even lashed down) in the cabin with all the rolling we were doing wasn't an attractive one! So, we just decided that as there wasn't a huge distance to go (53 miles to our first waypoint), we would just sail - as a sailing vessel should!! But not much wind for some hours.
Day 5 31/7 - in the early hours we saw a large ship ("Ocean Swagman") on our AIS coming up astern at 17.5 knots and we were somewhat concerned until we made contact on VHF and established that they had seen us. As the dawn came up we could see Timor ahead and very relieved that the passage end was in sight. We continued sailing towards the strait (selat) between Pulau (Is.) Timor and Roti and then at 0900 turned to starboard for the 15 mile sail up the strait. By then the wind was increasing and for the rest of the 15 mile distance in Selat Roti we fair screamed along - over 7 knots at times. Very deep water over 200 feet. Passed a couple of other rally yachts as we hooned along. Tiare (or "Reflections of Wellington" as she was then) was reliving her old racing days in Cook Strait out of Wellington!! We enjoyed the sail which would have been good if we were just out for the day, but with the ocean passage just behind us and what was to come we were KNACKERED!!! We also could not come head to wind to reef the main as we had no working engine so just had to continue hooning along.
However, the real sailing test was yet to come because we had arranged to be towed into the anchorage as we had no engine. We had to tack as the wind was starting to head us and then came around the point before the anchorage. We had to beat out to sea to come abreast of where the other yachts were and then came around onto port tack as the wind built to over 30 knots!! We had thought we were arriving in windless Indonesia. We furled the genoa on the way in but still couldn't slow the old girl down. Anyway we came head to wind to allow someone from another boat to come on board to help Jean with the main and then continued in. As we approached the outer part of the anchorage we were told to drop the anchor after the main was doused which we did. But, it turned out to be in 35 metres of water and we only carry 100 metres so not a very good scope ratio. It was very choppy with a big swell and we were very unhappy with our situation. We were soon to become very much more unhappy. An Australian 56' yacht upwind of us with no-one on board suddenly started to drag down towards us. This has never happened to us before and it is somewhat terrifying as the drama all unfolds in slow motion and there is absolutely nothing you can do about it. If we'd had an operative engine maybe we could have manoeuvered sideways but of course we did not have an engine on call. For a few seconds we thought there was a chance she would drag across our bows and come clear on our starboard side but as she came across she started closing the gap and we were then trying to fend off a much bigger yacht than us in 30 knot winds and at least a 1 metre swell. As she rose and fell on the waves she struck us several times. It was a highly dangerous and fraught situation with huge potential for serious injury. We'd both been up since the small hours and then had sailed in strong winds for some hours and were not equipped mentally or physically for this horrendous situation. Fortunately Jim had put out a distress call over the Sail Indonesia net on VHF 77 and so as she moved down our side several dinghies appeared with powerful motors. They managed to force her away from us otherwise our solar panel and our self steering gear on the stern would certainly have been smashed. It was a very close thing. They then managed to board her and let out more chain which took her clear. Then we had the almost certain situation where her anchor chain would have been across ours and maybe the anchors entwined as well. We ended up quite traumatised as you could imagine. Jim went onto the VHF again and lambasted Sail Indonesia for using Kupang as a rally anchorage. He said it was highly dangerous and should never be promoted as a rally stop - much less for clearing in. These comments are absolutely true and will be repeated on other cruising websites. We then spent a very anxious and sleepless night which was exactly what we did not need after the days we'd had.
Several cruisers who could not mind their own business took issue with Jim's comments and he publicly called one cruiser's comments "BOLLOCKS"!!!! All good stuff.
Day 6 01/08 - come daylight we were still in the same place and the wind had dropped so it was decided that "Kielba" (the boat that dragged down on us) would pick up their anchor first while Gene from an American boat ("Reflections") was lashed alongside us as a tug in his dinghy. The help we had just blew us away and was so much appreciated. Fortunately "Kielba" eventually picked up their anchor without dragging ours up with it and so we began the laborious process of hauling in 90 metres of chain and anchor which severely taxed our windlass. It came up in the end much to our relief and Gene towed us further inshore where we are now. Much more sheltered and a reasonable 7 metres to re-anchor in. It turns out that Simon (the owner of "Kielba") is a diesel mechanic and he has offered to sort our engine problem. He and his wife Kim and young son Jolyn are very pleasant people and it was not their fault that the dragging incident occurred. Just one of those things and probably the result of their anchor landing on a pile of plastic bags and clothes which litter the bottom here. Our damage is yet to be properly assessed but at this stage appears to be limited to a broken top lifeline, a displaced pin rail and a bent stanchion aft. Possible damage to standing rigging but that is much more difficult to assess. We will just have to treat the rig carefully until we are at Bali where there are rigging facilities.
In the midst of all this we still had to clear Indonesian Customs and after we had re-anchored we had a visitation from 6 or 8 officials. Customs, quarantine and immigration. We had been well briefed and told to have heaps of copies of all documents. Boat registration, crew list, passports, vaccination certificates, etc etc. The vaccination certificate was a real hoot because Jean had hers from her visit to India 12 years ago and all official looking in its bound book. They carefully examined it and were really impressed. Anything which has an official look about it and lots of official rubber stamps goes down a treat. We were constantly asked whether we had a boat stamp and when we said no, they were most disappointed. We will get one made however because this country and others run on the remnants of their colonial heritage and the Dutch appear to have done a good job of building up a bureaucracy steeped in the past - pre computer. Our cruising permit issued in Jakarta looks as though it was typed on a really ancient typewriter. They love paper and stamps it seems. After the visitation aboard we then had to go ashore and virtually go through the whole process again moving around a U shaped arrangement of tables giving out copies of everything again. Towards the end it became quite hilarious with Jean having them in fits of laughter!!
Kupang is a city at the southern end of Timor and from what we have seen so far is a dusty collection of ramshackle buildings. Getting ashore on the beach is not fun as there is a swell running which almost capsized our little dinghy. However, once ashore the beach boys come running and hold the dinghy while you jump out in the surf. They then carry it up the beach. 50,000 Rupiahs (approx. NZD6-7) for looking after the dinghy all day and ensuring nothing gets stolen! Teddy's Bar is the rally watering hole and is somewhat expensive (35,000 Rupiahs - NZD4.40) for a 600 ml bottle of local beer - Bintang - and very good. We are looking forward to checking out some other watering holes.
The next rally stop is on the island (Pulau) of Alor but due to our problems still not fixed we have decided to bypass Alor and go direct to Pulau Kawula which is the 2nd stop and will take a lot of the time pressure from us. This cuts out many miles and we don't think we will be missing much. Hopefully we'll finally sail from here in a relaxed frame of mind.
We haven't been ashore today as Simon from "Kielba" has been aboard trying to track down our engine problem. We are getting close and as this is typed the engine has been running for over an hour making water and power. Fingers crossed. It does appear that the problem (for those of you with a mechanical bent) is that the secondary fuel filter is being starved of fuel (2/3 empty) and this causes the engine to stop. Can't see why this is happening but no doubt the morrow will produce some more progress with the problem. The engine has just stopped after an hour and a quarter but will have made considerable water and power so the situation is not so fraught. Hopefully we'll sort it finally tomorrow.
Finally we must acknowledge the help we have had arising from our predicament - certainly NOT helped by Sail Indonesia. Sue on a British boat "Camomile" coordinated the help with getting us into the anchorage although it was unfortunate that we were told to anchor so far out with the consequences that have already been described. Simon from "Kielba" has been a tower of strength and has almost solved our engine problem. Gene from "Reflections" saved us from more damage in the dragging incident and others have offered their help as well. We must also mention Georg and Manuela from the German boat "Sternchen" who, along with their German Swiss friend Peter have made available a power generator which we have been using to keep our batteries up which in turn power everything on board including our refrigeration. This is what the cruising life is all about and we hope that we can reciprocate in the future. We should also mention Peter of "2XS" who typed out and copied sufficient copies of our crewlists in the nick of time. So, there are some benefits of cruising with a rally.
Well, that's it for now. Things can only improve on the morrow.
Lotsaluv from us.............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
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