Boat problems and sad farewells

Yesterday we farewelled "Giselle of Argylle" (David and Mary) as they left here to return to NZ. We first met them a couple of years ago in Urquarts Bay, Whangarei and since then we got to know them during our periods at Norsand Boatyard where they had extensive work done on their boat. And of course we cruised with them in the last few weeks around New Caledonia. It's entirely possible that we may never see them again and that's one of the downsides of this cruising life. One makes very good friends over a period of time and then suddenly the ways part. They are returning to Scotland to rebuild their house which was very badly damaged by fire some months ago and so their world cruising days are over for the foreseeable future.
In the meantime we are having a frustrating time dealing with various issues which have arisen as recently as this morning.
The first is that our battery charger which is supposed to keep the batteries up has packed it in. It was supposed to be the best we could get when in Whangarei only about 18 months ago but it is now KAPUT and we have to get another here. The local electrician says that the brand we have is not the best as was claimed to us and that we can get much better here - at a good price!! This is starting to become quite a repetitive refrain and more and more we are losing faith in the peripheral equipment installed in NZ. This is a long weekend here and so we are going to have to wait until Tuesday before anything happens. In the meantime we are running the engine 2 hours a day sitting on the marina!! We have already apologised in advance to our very pleasant neighbours.
The notable exception to this is of course the craftsmanship of Noel at Norsand for whose work we have the utmost respect. In this vein we must also mention Tom Johns (engineer) and Russ Robertson (mechanical engineer).
Then there is the ongoing issue with the watermaker. We will conduct an experiment suggested by the Opua supplier to hopefully further narrow down the possible issues but feel fairly confident that we will have to sail from here with it non functioning and get something done in Australia. At least the switch which was overheating can be replaced here because the electrician has given us a couple of much better quality switches than those originally installed and he has said the originals were rubbish!! They were a definite fire risk as they were
The galley sink drain pump has split another diaphragm. We are now seriously wondering whether it was ever a suitable pump for the job as it has now split 4 diaphragms in the last 3 years and for much of that time the boat was not being lived in. Once again we'll get it repaired here and just hope it lasts as far as Australia. In the meantime we have sent a message to Jabsco.com to seek their advice.
Our masthead nav. lights are not working. The fitting is to some extent "homemade" and so once again we will buy a proper factory fitting which includes a strobe light in Australia. In the meantime we will use our deck level lights. They can't be seen anywhere near as far as the masthead lights but we'll take the risk. At least they will be legal.
The head (another Jabsco product) which is barely 2 years old seemed to partially block as we were coming into Noumea 2 days ago. Fortunately we had a repair kit on board and when we took it apart we found that a valve which had been factory installed was the wrong way round!!! It's a wonder it ever worked.
The big problem with many items of equipment on boats now is that, while they may be well known and previously respected brands, they are now almost universally manufactured in China and quality control has gone out the window. The issue with the head is a definite case in point.
All this is depressing and very disruptive. As an example, to get at the watermaker we have to dismantle the front of the engine box and the whole galley sole - then you have to have somewhere to store the bits until it's all back together again.
Well, that's enough of a moan - hopefully it's all downhill from here.
Lotsaluv from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Back in Noumea

We weighed anchor (late for us) at 0700 and set sail in a very light 10 knot breeze - still from the SE!!! But no worries for us now because Noumea lies in a WNW direction. We had a very slow start because of light winds so we had full main and genoa. We navigated our way across the lagoon around reefs and shoals for several miles and then the wind started coming up and by the time we were nearly at our waypoint to make the final turn towards Noumea it was hitting 30 knots. We still had full main and genoa so the old girl was starting to become a bit of a handful!! Tiare of course!! But we carried on and came past Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons at a good clip. Dropped the sails in Baie d l'Orphelinat and then proceeded in to Port Moselle. We had contacted them on the radio and very fortunately they had a berth available for us. When we arrived the visitor's pontoon was quite full (mostly with boats waiting to go to Bundaberg it turned out!!) and so we were lucky to secure a berth.
We've been tidying up the boat and took a load of washing to the laundromat then went to the supermarket for some essential (alcoholic!!) supplies and now about to have a very welcome shower. Good to have the water tanks full too. We are exhausted and will be sleeping long tonight. But we have a sense of quiet achievement with our circumnavigation. NC is far from the easiest island to go around lying as it does right up the line of the prevailing wind, and we certainly had our share of frustrations. The whole passage has taken more than 5 weeks and probably the highlight for us was Koumac with the Foire de Koumac - already covered in previous blogs you'll be pleased to know!! But it was all very varied and a navigational and sailing challenge. Especially for tropical water novices like us.
But a very good apprenticeship for the future and certainly has crystallised some thoughts for the boat in future - like dedicated chartplotters.
Lots to do now here in Noumea before we leave for Australia. The head started playing up coming in here today so must look at that and there is the continuing vexed question of the watermaker.
All part of the cruising lifestyle - it's certainly NOT all G&T's and downwind sailing - would that it was!!!
We must also make mention of our trusty Ford engine, albeit over 40 years old. We have depended on it, particularly during the southwards east coast passages and never more so than when we were coming through Havannah 2 days ago. It has never let us down and is economical too. 900 to 1100 rpm is a good cruising speed and it just keeps trucking along sipping fuel at 1.5 litres per hour. Thanks to Russ for all the work he has done with it in recent times. We are essentially a sailing vessel but there are times such as at Havannah and motorsailing very tight angles to get south as soon as possible before the on nose wind rose above 25 knots each day when we have been very relieved to have such a reliable and powerful engine.
And we must also make special mention of Mary and David on "Giselle of Argylle" without whose help, particularly with the chartplotter, this circumnavigation would not have been possible.
Lotsaluv from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Circumnavigation complete!!

We weighed anchor at Yate at 0545 and managed to pull up a very heavy length of wire hawser with it. Nearly lost the boathook getting it off and would have if it hadn't been for our neighbours on a French boat who were passing in their dinghy. Managed to negotiate the river without contacting the bottom again, hoisted the reefed main and headed out to sea. Very rough in the entrance but it calmed down once through there and we adopted our usual method of dealing with strong on the nose conditions where we needed to get to the other end as soon as possible. So we motorsailed tacks all the way down to the Passe de la Havannah. Wind had been forecast to be from around 110 degrees but reverted to 130 degrees which was exactly the direction we were going!! We're getting used to this now but this is the home stretch.
It is necessary to enter Havannah on an incoming tide otherwise there is a wind against tide effect and it can be dangerously turbulent with ocean swells meeting the current. Low tide was 1000 so we were trying to time our arrival for no earlier than then. However, we were about half an hour earlier than that although in our ignorance we thought that shouldn't matter - but it did!! There was an extensive breaking reef to starboard and a large area of big waves rearing up and breaking to port. This latter as a result of the tide effect. However, there was what looked like an area of relative calm between the two so we headed for that. The chartplotter was invaluable in keeping us away from dangers with Gina calling out warnings if we strayed too far from our course. We didn't strike breaking seas thank goodness but did have enormous swells coming up behind us being forced up by the current. Our speed over ground dropped from 6 knots to 2.5 and we had the engine at increased revs just to maintain that speed. We seemed to be standing still and it was a great effort just to steer and stay on course. It was all a bit alarming and if we ever come through there again it will be with the tide whether at full ebb or flood!
Still we managed it eventually and the current gradually changed in our favour. Suddenly conditions calmed down and we also had the wind with us for the first time since the top of the island - almost unbelievable. We deployed the genoa for the first time in several days and romped along up the Canal de Havannah. Sheer bliss. The wind strengthened (as it does!) and we came past the Prony entrance and into the Canal Woodin in great style. As we did so we crossed the line of our earlier course into Prony and so COMPLETED THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION. YAY - WHAT AN ACHIEVEMENT FOR NOVICE CRUISERS!!! It was so enjoyable sailing downwind compared to what we've had with tacks and putting the bow under regularly. We've decided that in future we're not going anywhere unless we can be guaranteed downwind conditions!!!
While coming through Woodin we saw another turtle on the surface and he (or she) raised his (or her) head out of the water to examine these interlopers. That's the 3rd we have seen on our circumnavigation. There is something so peaceful and calming about them - just slowly proceeding on their unhurried way. Humans could learn a lot from them we reckon.
We had decided to spend our last night in Baie de la Tortue on the western side of Ile Ouen because we had read about a hotel there owned by a gentleman who was very kindly disposed towards boaties. So we altered course to port and sailed hard on the wind with the reefed main and staysail and were still doing 6 knots. A good boisterous sail to round out our day and reluctantly 8 hours and about 40 miles after we started at Yate we dropped the sails and motored into the anchorage which was very sheltered in these conditions. We dropped anchor and then after a bit of a rest went ashore in the dinghy. However, it was a rerun of the situation on Ilot Casy at Prony. The hotel was not operating and had all but been been abandoned apart from some obvious ongoing caretaking. A beautiful idyllic spot - even better than Casy but abandoned. So terribly sad and such a waste to see what had obviously been a property with so much expended on it.
In going back over the notes in our Cruising Guide it seems to us that much the same has happened to many villages and towns, particularly on the east coast. Facilities which had been there in the past simply weren't there any more. Part of the reason is probably that the nickel loading facilities are being concentrated at fewer more modern ports where the nickel is now being processed beyond a mere ore stag. No doubt another contributory factor has also been the world financial recession which has badly affected tourism - particularly the previously free spending Americans.
Well now a quiet night ready for the final 24 miles to Noumea tomorrow. Here's hoping they have a berth for us so we can top up our water and have much needed showers!!!
More to come...................
Love from us xoxoxox

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Yate but NO LATTE!!!

Hi,
Well, we finally broke free of Ouinne's clutches and left the anchorage at 0510. We motorsailed under reefed main and staysail and held our course to within 20 degrees of the wind. We kept tacking to stay close under the lee of the coast and stay out of the worst of the oceanic swells which are largely unchecked hereabouts by any above water barrier reef. It was important to get at least down to a point where we could sail in a more southerly direction before the wind increased too much. We managed that and in fact, apart from a brief period of 24 knots, the wind never again went over 20 and was mostly around 18. That was manageable in an "on the nose" situation and then it was down to the last 4 miles with the wind on the beam. We turned into the Yate entrance past the coral reefs on each side about 1000 and surfed in on the ocean swells - a reasonably narrow entrance so accurate helmsmanship was necessary!! We shot in like a cork out of a bottle and then went head to wind to lower the mainsail. The bottom was shelving up rapidly from 200' outside to suddenly 20'!! So, we gingerly crept ahead watching the chartplotter and the depth sounder like a hawk. On the chartplotter there was a shallow patch showing on our port side jutting into the channel so we altered course to starboard - mistake!! We ran aground on a sandbank and we were being driven further on by the onshore wind - by then about 15 knots. That's when one is very grateful for sheer horsepower and a big propellor and we slowly forced our way back into the channel.
Without any other problems we continued upriver and dropped anchor opposite a boatramp which would provide an easy means of access to the shore. We could see no sign of any civilisation whatsoever but thought we'd go ashore nevertheless. We asked directions after flagging cars down and got the usual conflicting answers! Anyway, we set of on Shank's Pony and after about 2 kms came to the small settlement of Yate. It consisted of a shop/fuel station, a Gendarmerie and a hydro power station which supplies a nearby nickel plant. Of course the shop was FERMEE (!) when we arrived about 1300 and wasn't opening until 1430.
After exchanging pleasantries with a couple of resident dogs (there were no humans in sight!) we finally spied a most attractive local lady Gendarme. She offered us a cup of coffee or tea and we accepted with our customary enthusiasm! So, we went into the Gendarmerie and were taken out the back - not to the cells but to an outdoor table where we were offered very pleasant refreshment and broken French/English conversation! Then we were joined by two other Gendarmes who it turned out were on secondment from France. One of them was from Rouen in France. We had a very pleasant time with them and then when the shop opened we went next door to see what was available. Forget fresh fruit and veges, so we bought 3 bottles of wine and quelques choses apart from that at exorbitant prices - even for this place!! Even a packet of potato chips for 520 francs (NZD7.43) because we had been starved of junk food!!
Then we started walking back to the boat and were overtaken by said gendarmes in the police vehicle. They offered us a lift back to the boat ramp and we joked that usually when picked up by the police it is usually an arrest situation! Then when we arrived we asked them to take our photo in front of the paddy wagon. No mugshots though!! We gave them our card so we hope we hear from them again. It's amazing who you meet in this cruising life - it's part of the attraction, if not most of it, and certainly colours one's perception of a place.
So, it's back on board and cooking curried chicken. The cruising notes are hopelessly out of date as there's no hotel as they claim. We were looking forward to a meal ashore but will have to wait for Noumea.
Tomorrow we are off again and will get to the Havannah entrance by slack water and then hopefully be carried in on the flood tide to anchor for the night on the west side of Isle Ouen. That's the plan and then Noumea the next day. As always watch this space.
Cheers and love from us again..............
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
P.S. Pleased to hear the RWC final score but must have been a nailbiter. Thanks Perry. Sorry we couldn't have seen it - the Gendarmes told us France was leading at halftime so it must have been tense. Probably lucky we weren't locked up in reprisal!!!!

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Still here and going quietly nuts!!

It's hardly worth writing this blog as it's more of the same. We were up again at 4 this morning but so was the wind so we postponed yet again. However, the wind is supposed to be down a bit tomorrow so we're going come what may - unless we send you another blog in similar vein later tomorrow! The predicted wind direction has changed against us by 10 degrees but we're still going. As long as we get round the corner we'll be right. From Yate south and through the Havannah Passage it's much more plain sailing as long as we hit the Havannah on a rising tide - but that's relatively easy.
As Jiveen suggested it'll be lattes in Yate very soon!!
Cheers and love again from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Weatherbound

We were awake at 4 this morning but the wind was already up promising more of the same so we decided to stay at least one more day. Once more our decision has been validated by a steadily increasing wind all day until at the moment (1430) it is 24 knots again and that's in the anchorage. Our plan for tomorrow weather permitting is to leave at 0400 so that we get at least near to Yate before the wind gets serious. The passage is only 3 and a half hours but becomes very difficult if we strike 25-30 knots on the nose. We've been having a boring day as it's not even possible (or desirable from the look of the place) to go ashore as we would have serious difficulties getting back to the boat in the conditions. We've been reading and doing crossword puzzles so at least the time is passing. It has just started to rain!! But not heavily.
We are down to our last LPG bottle and of course we have the watermaker problem so we are washing dishes in salt water on deck!! All very boring and we are looking forward to getting back to civilisation.
The weather forecasts are indicating slooooowly improving conditions so here's hoping that tomorrow's the day for Yate. At least there we should be able to get ashore and replenish water and provisions.
Here's hoping the next blog is from Yate!!
Cheers again from us.........

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Ouinne again!!

Well, here we still are. We actually left at 0500 but the wind was already starting then and by the time we had gone about halfway it was piping up to over 30 knots and on the nose as always. We had just come abreast of Recife Kouanne on our starboard side at a point where the coastline changes direction to the SE and we had been slightly protected by the lee up to that point but as we poked our nose out further the wind was howling and the sea building rapidly. To further complicate matters there isn't much protection from the barrier reef along here and so we were getting most of the oceanic swell as well. It all added up to a quite nasty sea and we were putting the Tiare's nose under at least with each 2nd wave. And well under at that. In addition we were way off our intended course so it was anyone's guess when we might eventually arrive at our destination. We would have had to put in many tacks for very little gain with reefs and shallow patches to contend with as well so we made the disheartening decision to turn back. Had a nice peaceful downwind sail back to Ouinne - the contrast was like chalk and cheese.
We managed to sort out a slightly better anchorage than last night so at least we are out of the swell which causes an annoying roll. It's still howling in here at well over 20 knots so it's anyone's guess what it's like outside. Must be over 30 we'd guess so we definitely feel we made the right decision. There is a large ship mooring buoy 20 metres astern of us so we are keeping a weather eye on that in case the anchor dragged but so far so good and this is certainly one of those times when we feel very glad of our Rocna.
We'll just have to wait it out and start moving again when the weather permits. There is at present a very large high between here and NZ which is causing all the problem with very strong SE winds in these latitudes.
We are very frustrated with this impediment to our progress but at least we're well and safe and that's the main thing.
Cheers and love again...............
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Ouinne lat. 21 degrees 59.1' S long. 166 degrees 41.4' E

Hi
We are now in Ouinne - pronounced (we think!) ooinay!! The Cruising Guide says it's a privately owned nickel mine and there was evidence of mining activity on the hills as we approached but we haven't gone ashore as the anchorage is quite rolly and we are looking forward to getting on to Yate (yatay) tomorrow. Not so far to go now and we intend to leave even earlier than this morning as the entrance is wide and free of obstructions. Hopefully we can get ashore there and reprovision incl. water and maybe fuel although the fuel will last until Noumea. It's been very interesting getting down the coast but has been blighted to some extent by the water problems. The coast is fairly inhospitable with only a few acceptable anchorages so 20-30 miles is the order of the day. The wind comes up right on the nose around 0900 and this again necessitated a beat for the final hour this morning. We had up to 30 knots but fortunately only for a brief time. We motorsailed the whole distance today with a reefed main and staysail and it was a good choice. Our speed was at times nearly 7 knots and we are hoping that tomorrow we will have better winds which may allow us to sail properly. The lagoon depths very from 250' to 30' with reefs scattered in at times very inconvenient places necessitating tack changes but it's all very challenging which is all good. Gina spends a fair bit of time down below on the chart plotter telling Jim he is about to sail into a reef or very shallow patch so we tack over and so far have managed to not hit anything!!
We haven't been ashore here because of the conditions and also because there seems nothing to go ashore for apart from a small nickel conveyor and an invisible village (behind trees). We saw some working going on in the mine in the hills above the port with big diggers loading trucks so somehow they must be getting the ore out - either by barge from a coastal stockpile or by road although there's no road shown on any maps. In a straight line we are only 24 miles from Noumea but of course we have to continue south around the corner before we can lay a course for Noumea.
Next blog from Yate!! We have nearly completed the circumnavigation!
Cheers and love from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.co
P.S. We have learnt that NZ has changed to DST so that no doubt will affect Russell Radios sched times. We only keep GMT (UTC) and local time on board.

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Still in Port Bouquet

Well, conditions haven't let up although we have concluded that there seems most days to be a window of less wind from about 5 to 10 in the morning. Port Bouquet is quite large with several good anchorages so we decided to move about 5 miles to another anchorage that much closer to our next destination, Ouinne. This anchorage is Anse Toupeti off Ile Toupeti and the position is lat. 21 degrees 41.3' S long. 166 degrees 25.5' E. It is very pretty but even behind high hills the SE wind has been screaming over us most of the day. We went ashore and it's a steeply shelving beach with for once no coral obstructions in front of it. There is sign of previous habitation in the form of 2 rusty ramshackle corrugated iron hovels with sheets of iron banging in the wind. Behind there is evidence of some form of garden in the past and some banana palms but everything very overgrown and no bananas!!! Nevertheless a beautiful idyllic spot and only a few mining scars visible in the distance.
We are hoping that the wind pipes down tonight (the normal pattern but by no means assured) to allow us to head in a SE direction early tomorrow. When it's literally on the nose it's no fun if it's strong. Sure we can sail to windward but it's very uncomfortable in the nasty short chop that quickly develops and we have to sail many tacks instead of in a straight line. However, we do have to press on as we need to get back to Noumea before clearing out to Bundaberg. We are also worried about the watermaker which has now almost entirely packed up. Open Ocean of Opua have been making suggestions by email but with limited resources and the inability to replace anything critical we think that the best course would be to have it sorted in Australia. Just as an example, to get at the H.P. pump we have to disassemble and then reassemble the front of the engine box and also the galley sole (floor). So, we'll follow their suggestions once back in Noumea and see if that helps but we seriously doubt it; the problems appear more deep seated.
So, we have to get south, not least because we will soon run out of water. Washing dishes once a day in a bucket, rinsing in salt water and no showers isn't the reason we have a watermaker!!! Altogether very disappointing.
Hopefully tomorrow we'll be able to report further progress south weather permitting. One thing for sure we'll be up and looking at the situation at 0400 tomorrow!
Cheers and love from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
P.S. Can someone please confirm the date of the RWC final between NZ and France. Is it Sat. 22nd. or Mon. 24th.? Thanks

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Correction

Sorry, but our last blog was not quite correct inasmuch as the lat and long were correct but the name of the island we are anchored off is Ile Nemou in Port Bouquet. Sorry if it caused any confusion among those who are wide awake navigators!!!
Cheers again,
Jim and Gina

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Tiare Taporo III at Port Bouquet lat. 21 degrees 40.4' S long. 166 degrees 22.9' E

Well, today was a long one. 42 nautical miles and at 6 knots that's 7 hours. We were concerned at the weather forecast which was for strong SE right on the nose. So, we started at 0600 as soon as we could see our way out of the harbour and we motorsailed in light winds and at times no wind at all. There was also a thick haze which reduced visibility to about 3 miles. As we passed Baie de Nakety we could see a large ore carrier at anchor there and all along the coast there are massive scars in the landscape from the strip mining where the nickel is constantly being excavated. They start on tops of hills and ridge lines and just carve it down. It's impressive to see work on this scale but very sad to see the damage and undoubtedly damage to come.
Just as we came abreast of Thio (the site of the first nickel mine in NC) the wind suddenly piped up to 20-25 knots and whipped up quite a nasty short chop which rapidly became impossible to motorail into at a tight angle. So, we deployed about a third of the genoa and started tacking with the motor at reduced power to just hold us a little higher to the wind. Even with reefed main and minimal genoa we were putting the scuppers under - just as well we only had about 10 miles to go (in a straight line!!). Quite tricky tacking in those conditions and having to put in a number of tacks because several times we found we were heading for a reef. One tack was forced on us because heading across our bow from left to right was a tug with 2 nickel barges in tow. We weren't going to argue right of way so tacked over well before we actually would have otherwise needed to. Very annoying!! The course to steer is dictated by the wind so it was a matter of juggling all that with the physical barriers. However, after about 6 tacks we arrived in the tranquil anchorage of Port Bouquet just off an attractive little beach on Ile Toupeti.
Port Bouquet covers a big area and has a number of good anchorages within it so one can find good shelter in any wind. Lunch, a snooze and then maybe a dinghy trip ashore will round out the day.
Cheers and love again from us......
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Kouaoua lat. 21 degrees 23.7' S long. 165 degrees 50.0' E

Well, here we are at Kouaoua, the most dead and alive place you ever laid sight upon! We had high hopes after our passage from Lebris because we had read in the Cruising Guide about good shops and fuel availability etc but things must have changed over the years because the reality was far different.
We anchored just in front of a nickel conveyor which supplies barges or ships but it appeared to be disused which probably explains the down at heel nature of the place. We wandered around the place and eventually found a shop (closed until 3 pm) and the post office which closes at 3 pm!!! These French opening or rather closing hours are something to behold. So, we sat in the post office for the air conditioning until we were told to leave when we wandered over to the shop which was woefully understocked. Bought a doz beer and 2 bottles of wine and a few other odds and ends. No fruit and veg worth a dime. The fuel station was either 2 kms or 5 kms out of town depending on whom you believed so we didn't worry about that. We can't wait to get out of here so will be leaving at 0500 when we can start to see things.
Later in the afternoon we went ashore again to have a cold water shower under a tap on the beach because our Open Ocean watermaker from Opua, for which Jim has paid NZD5000 + installation costs, is rapidly fading away. This is an increasing concern because there is still a considerable distance to cover before we are back in Noumea and we are conserving water any way we can.
The passage down here today was uneventful - under power all the way because the wind which was mostly dead ahead was only 5 knots. We have a longer passage tomorrow and hopefully the wind will treat us more kindly but the long range forecast is for unrelenting SE of varying intensity so we will just have to continue to plough on.
Congratulations to "Giselle" on catching their Mahimahi - makes us feel quite jealous but hopefully we'll catch one on our way to Bundaberg. We are hoping to be back in Noumea by the 24th. to see the RWC final - NZ v France. Should be exciting, especially in this place. We'll be lucky to get out alive!!!
More later as always.............
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Baie Lebris lat. 21 degrees 12.3' S long. 165 degrees 35.4' E

We left Touho (and "Giselle" and "Lifou" at 0730 and motored out into a moderate SE - right on the nose! Story of our lives. Still, we plugged on and once past Poindimie and Cap Bayes we were able to alter our angle relative to the wind and we actually sailed for a short time, but we're sure Murphy watches us because then the wind almost died completely and we motored the rest of the distance. Past a nickel loading conveyor at the entrance to Baie Ugue and huge mining scars on the hills. Quite dramatic to look at but for the environment???????????
It's been a 8 hour trip today so we are quite tired and looking forward to an early night. Fortunately our journey tomorrow is only half the length of today's and then we will spend at least 2 days in Kouaoua as very strong SE are forecast. Baie Lebris is a wide shallow bay and very remote. On the southern shore is the town of Houailou (not visible from the anchorage) which we were warned about going to when we had the car. So, perhaps we should have had a couple of Capt. Cooks mini cannons mounted on the pushpit!!
Hope "Giselle" and "Lifou" are having a good sail out to Ouvea and we are looking forward to seeing them in Port Bouquet further south.
That's it from us..............
P.S. Who has won the NZ-Aust rugby match?????????????????????
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Tiare Taporo III a Touho

Hi, well, we are still at Touho which is a very pleasant place to stop with most things available. The anchorage is well sheltered behind an extensive reef system and it's a short dinghy ride into the launching ramp at the entrance to the marina where Gina has found a tap for the washing. This is especially beneficial as our watermaker is still not functioning properly - but we are making water.
We have decided to continue south along the coast rather than go out to Ouvea. The wind direction seems to be doable but too potentially difficult in the short time we have left and with the watermaker problems we think it's more prudent to keep as optimal a course back to Noumea as possible. So, "Giselle" and "Lifou" (who has rejoined us) are going out to Ouvea but we now think that we have had a great apprenticeship with sailing in tropical waters and that therefore we would be better to continue to Bundaberg as planned but fter that to come back here next April and proceed north via the Loyalties, Vanuatu, Solomons,Phillipines and eventually to Malaysian Borneo and then Peninsula Malaysia.
Tonight we went ashore (on a Sat night!!) to a local restaurant which was ferme (closed!!). The only restaurant in town. We knew it was closed so we ate on board (local venison steaks) and then had been invited to watch the France v Wales rugby game. After a few false starts the television set starting giving off some intelligible images and we were very pleased to see France the victor. If NZ beats Australia then it will be a NZ-France finale. COULD SOMEONE PLEASE LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS!!!!!!!!!!!
Tomorrow we head for Baie Lebris and after that Kouaoua which is a mining town but with all supplies we are likely to need. Hopefully we'll meet "Giselle" and "Lifou" further south in Port Bouquet or Yate.
Sailing down the coast isn't easy. There are constant headwinds and it's a matter of juggling weather forecasts and distances.
Cheers and love from us"Anna and Clyff" <EA3285@sailmail.com>
Jim and Gina
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Touho

We went ashore this morning (Friday) as we had been told that there was a Friday market from 0600 but when we arrived there was nothing doing. Why should we be surprised? We wandered around for a while and then a Kanak lady arrived to open the market facility - she said everything would be happening "bientot"!!! Yeah right. Eventually someone arrived with a few Papayas - 4 to be precise - and we bought two. That was it apart from the instant Nescafe coffee we were offered at 150 francs per serving.
We then returned on board and had for breakfast some of the Spanish Mackerel that David and Mary had caught. Then it was more work on the watermaker (mostly to no avail) and then we went ashore again - this time to do the washing. We are anchored very close to the marina entrance so it is not such an issue getting ashore. No coral reefs to juggle and a relatively short distance in what is a very strong wind. We did the washing (sheets and towels) under a tap onshore with our bucket and then hung the items out on the yacht with millions of pegs in order for them to remain on board in a 20 knot gale!!
It was Friday evening and we went ashore again in the expectation that the only restaurant in Touho would be open but we shouldn't be surprised - it shuts for the weekend!!!! These people have no entrepreneurial ideas at all. So, it's back to the boat to finish off the last of the delicious fish from "Giselle" and an early night.
Not sure what the situation is for the next few days - the winds for the Loyalties don't look favourable so we might just head south outside the reef and get back to Noumea where hopefully we can get some of our boat issues sorted. We think now that we might come back here from Bundaberg next year and go on to Vanuatu, Solomons and on north to the Phillipines and eventually to Malaysian Borneo. Rather than going to Darwin up the Australian coast. Cruising plans are always fluid!!
As always lots of love from us
Jim and Gina (Jean)
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Touho lat. 20 degrees 46.4' S long. 165 degrees 14.2' E

We arrived at Touho about 1400 today after a very pleasant sail south from Hienghene. It was a beat all the way but the wind didn't exceed 20 knots and so it was pleasant sailing in the flat water of the lagoon. We probably tacked 8 times and it was a bit frustrating to be making good progress on a certain tack only to find a coral reef barring the way!! So it was a matter of tacking over and then a short time later tacking back to clear the aforementioned obstruction!
The approach into Touho is not without problems as it is a narrow channel between reefs to get to the anchorage but all well marked and with the aid of our trusty chartplotter we anchored just off the entrance to the marina. The marina isn't useable as most of it has sunk - whether that's a result of sabotage or not we don't know. But we went ashore there and walked to the nearest civilisation which wasn't far away. There's a well stocked shop and interestingly enough a shed where there is a carvel planked boat slightly bigger than Jim's father's boat "Jado" but strikingly similar and maybe slightly bigger. She has sustained damage on the starboard side and the engine has been taken out of her. Looking at the construction detail we wouldn't be surprised if she hadn't been built in NZ and shipped up here. She would be a great restoration project!! Kevin - take note!! Although we're sure that one wooden motor boat is more than enough to be involved with at a time.
David and Mary had caught another Spanish Mackerel and offered some to us so very gladly we went across in the dinghy and had some more delicious Sashimi and after a few glasses of wine returned to Tiare. We are very lazy - we didn't even have a line over!! Always good to leave the anchor light on so as to have something definite to aim for otherwise in the dark it's a bit hit and miss!!
We should also mention that while ashore we met a Kanak guy (about 40) who spoke excellent English and who filled us in on the local politics. It seems that there is some better relationship between the French and the Kanaks since 1984 but there is a long way to go. All they are asking for is equal opportunity for education etc and the chance to participate equally in society. Hopefully this societal development will progress otherwise the outlook is bleak. He surprised us by asking whether we had seen many Kanaks on the West coast and we had to say that we hadn't. He said that was because the early settlers had literally killed them off to obtain the best agricultural producing land and that would explain the agricultural emphasis of towns like Bourail and la Foa.
Not sure what the answer to all this is except to say that our ancestors were brutally driven off their ancestral homelands in the highlands of Scotland by the British - and here we now are. Should we continue to hold these past grievances or just get on with life? More the latter we think and this applies to the Kanaks of New Caledonia as much to the Maoris of NZ. We hope for all our sakes that this can be achieved in an atmosphere of societal justice.
Love from us - again
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
P.S. Wot's happening in Godzone???!!! Someone please let us know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! RWC ???????????????????

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Further on Hienghene

It's been an action packed 24 hours. Yesterday we had heard there was a market starting at 0600 so we went in the dinghy up the river to see what we could find. The market was disappointing but we found one small bag of carrots, some lettuce and some tiny tomatoes!! Then had s shocking cup of coffee and something masquerading as a croissant, but it was actually made of bread!! The money machine was still hors de service (out of order) but we were told there was another up at the Post Office so Jim and Mary headed in that direction. However, on arrival it appeared that that machine had run out of money. Absolutely typical of this place - pretty though it is. Very frustrating! Then when you try to pay for purchases in what passes for a shop they say they don't accept cards! Fortunately the amount didn't break our fragile bank and so all was ok.
Mary and David had organised a walk which was up a hill to the south of the anchorage to an altitude of over 350 meters and then down the northern side past some dramatic rock formations. They picked us up in their dinghy and we went ashore across a very shallow coral reef and landed just by a private house. We gave them a small gift (some material and pancakes) and set off on our walk, initially through their property. Then the walk soon turned uphill and at times became quite steep. It became quite taxing in the heat. We passed by a cellphone repeater antenna and continued up. The views of the bay and the boats which looked like dots was spectacular. In particular the limestome rock formations which look just like Whangarei Heads. We stopped for some refreshment on a Col just under the main summit and then started down. Needless to say the walk down was far less strenuous than the climb up and we were soon down at sea level again. We then walked along a beach then the road because we'd heard about a resort at the end but it seemed to be quite elusive. Then perchance we managed to hitch a ride with an employee of the resort and lo and behold it materialised before our famished eyes and 2 beers later we were feeling a bit like people again. Then it was another 4 kms walk back to where we had left the dinghy and back out to the yachts en mouillage. We felt exhausted after walking over 10 kms and most of it up hill and down dale but it was a good exhausted feeling and a real sense of achievement.
Today was a make and mend morning as they say in the Navy! Fortunately our outboard problems seemed to have disappeared but the watermaker remains a problem. We took the control panel apart and the switch which we suspect is a problem seems to be falling apart but because it's a sealed unit there is nothing we can do - except maybe bypass it which is an option for the next few days. In the meantime the watermaker is producing water so we'll just hope that this continues until we reach Noumea again and we can effect a proper repair. We went ashore after this and this time managed to get some money (!) and bought some oranges and a couple of other items. Most expensive oranges ever - maybe they saw us coming but it's typical of everything here.
Then just after lunch Mary and David picked us up in their dinghy and we went about 4 kms up the river upstream from the village. Very pretty and lush but nothing much else. We stopped and went ashore and there were well tended small plantations here and there but no population centre. We found some wild raspberries and picked some then returned down river where we bought some icecream then out to the Tiare en mouillage where we had the raspberries and icecream with sweet vermouth drizzled over the top - absolutely delicious sitting in the cockpit and watching the full moon coming up over les Tours.
A fitting end to our stay here because tomorrow morning we are heading a further 20 miles south to Touho from where hopefully we'll be able to sail out to Ouvea (60 miles) if the wind angle is right. Otherwise the options are to go further south in the lagoon or just to tack over to Ouvea. We'll assess it more closely later in the week.
Lotsaluv from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Hienghene town

Well, today has been something else that's for sure! We went ashore this morning in hopes of some provisions. This involved a half mile trip from the anchorage up the river. Hienghene is a pretty little town on the banks of the river with a small marina and information centre. However, extracting truthful and useful information out of the locals is like extracting teeth. We had a simple question - where is the shop and is it open? The man in the info centre said the shop was open. It is further up the river by the road bridge and we asked whether we could land the dinghy up there. The answer was yes so off we went. When we got there we found the only landing possibility was on the opposite bank so there we went. Then we walked across the bridge and on the way over we met a young Kanak girl who said the shop was "fermee - fini". This implied that it was no more. It was certainly closed but appeared to be only closed for lunch. Then we walked back and inquired at the local "Pompiers" - fire station where we received 2 more totally conflicting stories. So we got back in the dinghy and went back to the marina where we met Mary who had come ashore and had a chat for a while.
Then at 2 we went back upriver to try our luck again. This time it was open but it seemed that it was indeed in the process of shutting permanently because of "les aggressions". There had been a series of armed holdups by Kanaks and someone had been shot and killed. So, we bought a few things from the meagre stocks including a bottle of whisky and a sweet and a dry vermouth. No wine to be had. Apparently there is a market in the morning but we will believe it when we see it. Hopefully we'll be able to buy some fresh items. Who knows - no-one seems to know anything and those that do seem to are telling us things they think we want to hear!! Anyway, it all adds to the trials of cruising - it is definitely NOT cruisy!! More later.................
Love from us

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Hienghene lat. 20 degrees 41.0' S long. 164 degrees 57.1' E

This pesky SE wind didn't let up all day so we had it right on the nose as we left Pouebo. However, we motorsailed and managed to hold up to 20 degrees of the wind. It was an interesting passage with many course changes to avoid shallow patches and reefs, only a very few of which were marked. In one area opposite Mt. Panie (the highest peak in NC at 1628 metres) the inshore passage was very close to the shore because just there the barrier reef is also close in and the channel, though deep, is quite narrow. We saw a most spectacular waterfall which falls from Mt. Panie. It falls down sheer rock walls for hundreds of metres to the coastal strip and then the sea and is a great view from seawards.
We had travelled probably close to 45 miles today with all our tacking and we are fairly tired tonight. We are anchored in Hienghene Bay as the river is probably too shallow for us and unfortunately there is a bit of a roll coming round the point but I think we'll sleep through anything!!
The next morning (Mon.10th.) - awoke to a beautiful day with spectacular scenery all around. There are rock formations at the head of the bay (the Sphinx and les Tours) which are a bit like a miniature version of Whangarei Heads. Running the engine to make water (the watermaker is working but not at full capacity) and charging the batteries. Going ashore soon to get some provisions and maybe have a longer shower to wash hair!!! We don't like to use too much on the boat because of the precarious state of the watermaker.
More later.............love from us.

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Baie de pam to Puebo lat.20 degrees 22.6' S long. 164 degrees 35.3' E

Well, today has been fascinating, but long and we're going to sleep well tonight.
We left Baie de Pam at 0600 as soon as we could see reasonably well and began with high hopes that the wind would be a favourable SW. However, when we cleared the reefs at the mouth of the bay and turned towards the south we found that it had swung back to the usual SE and up to 20 knots - no good for us as we are heading south and New Caledonia lies NW-SE. However, we managed to motorsail reasonably well by sailing very tight tacks which made the boat more stable and increased our speed, although with the penalty of sailing further. There's no such thing as a free lunch! The other issue as always was that we were always limited by the reefs all around us. For example in NZ one can decide to sail on one tack for (say) 20 miles offshore and then sail back in. But you can't do that here. You could, but only by sailing out through the reef into the open sea. In many places you are in a channel between coral reefs only a quarter of a mile wide or less which makes tacking a bit of a chore. Anyway we managed fairly creditably with reefed main and staysail and using the engine to hold her up to within 20-30 degrees of the wind direction. Close attention to the chart plotter and the trusty eyeballs made the navigation easier because you can't see coral reefs until you are fairly close and again it's not like NZ where one can see land masses to aim for or avoid - one is simply looking at an apparent area of open sea but it's littered with reefs - all under the water!!
Anyway, 16 miles south of Pam we arrived at Balade. There is a village on the shore but fairly inaccessible from the boat. However, there is a small sand island (about 500 metres long) called Ile Poudioue which is part of a reef about half a mile out in the lagoon and it is where in September 1774 Captain Cook landed and observed an eclipse of the sun. He called it Observatory Is. We anchored just on the shoreside of the island and went ashore where we trod the hallowed ground where the Great Navigator had been. We imagined the ship's boat coming into the island with Cook and some officers and the boat's crew; the island is the same today as it would have been then. There is also a concrete monument there in memory of Capitaine Huon de Kermadec who commanded the French Navy frigate "Esperance". He was part of Bruny d'Entrecasteaux's expedition of 1793 and NZ's Kermadec Islands are named after him. He died of a tropical disease and was the first European to have been buried in New Caledonia - a dubious distinction one would have thought. He died in May 1793.
We took our leave of Balade after some lunch on board - the last of our pate!! Horrors - we are now out of pate and cheese and almost out of wine! Never mind, soon we will be in Hienghene. The wind had increased and was really on the nose this time so as it was only 10 miles we just pointed her into it and motored. We soon arrived at 1400 at Pouebo where "Giselle" had arrived earlier after overnighting at Balade. Pouebo is an indifferent anchorage although sheltered behind a large reef system. However, unlike land, the reef does not give total protection from sea and so the anchorage tonight is a bit rolly. However, we will sleep through anything! This afternoon after we arrived we decided to see whether we could buy any provisions in the village which is largely invisible from the sea. There is the Puebo River which is supposed to give access to the village and we had anchored just off the mouth. We launched the dinghy and put our trusty 2.2 hp. Suzuki on the back plus some extra fuel and headed for the entrance. There is a shallow bar to cross and then we were heading upstream. A long way to the road bridge just out of town. It felt like going up the "great grey green greasy Limpopo River, all set about with fever trees"!! Must have been at least half a mile winding our way around the bends. Anyway, we eventually arrived at the bridge which looked like a WWII relic all built of steel girders. Inexplicably there was a fairly new bridge alongside which had been blocked off from being used. Must be some local squabble. Then we had the usual hassle of asking directions. Fairly simple we would have thought - ou est le magasin? After about 6 different answers and different opening hours being quoted we were starting to lose interest when we came across a young teacher at the local school. Strangely she wasn't sure either but she offered to take us in her car to find the shop!! Find it we did and bought some cheap wine, some more Danish chicken sausages and a lettuce. No fruit available! Then she drove us back to the boat tied up under the bridge. She had been very kind and informed Jim that he was sitting on the front passenger seat where one of her dogs preferred to be!! Not that she was worried but it explained the strange looks the dog had been giving Jim!!
Than back down the Congo - oops sorry the Pouebo!! Out to the boat, hoisting the dinghy back aboard and generally getting ready for an early start in the morning for Hienghene 30 miles further south. Pork stirfry for dinner and now writing this blog. Hope there is no hassle with Sailmail and that it goes through quickly so that Jim can have a shower and get to bed.
Lotsaluv from us.....................
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Baie de Pam

We are now at lat. 20 degrees 14.149' S long. 164 degrees 18.258' E anchored in a delightful anchorage which so much reminds us of NZ. We motorsailed 25 miles today mostly against a headwind and had a number of tortuous channels to negotiate. But the eyeballs along with the chartplotter did the business. All in all a most relaxing trip on a beautiful day. We are very lucky. We came into Baie de Pam about 1330 and anchored. We had noticed that our watermaker had stopped working again so once more it was a matter of taking the galley to pieces yet again to check the oil which again was low and adjust the drive belt. All of this only had a minimal effect but we are still in business making water albeit at only about 50% of normal output.
After all that palaver we went ashore to try to find the ruins of an old copper mine that was mentioned in the cruising guide. There were no obvious ruins but we did find a well organised shack which had been built on what looked like the old concrete floor. There was no-one there but there were a couple of large plastic containers about 1 metre square which made us wonder whether it was an illicit still in this remote place!! We then had a walk on a formed road up the hill and spied "Giselle" heading into the bay so we spoke to them on the handheld VHF and then walked back down. We thought we'd found a drinking coconut but it turned out to have had a small hole in it so we discarded it. WE invited David and Mary to come across to Tiare to help us drink the bottle of Coruba that had been given to us in Noumea all those weeks ago. They brought some coconut juice and we had some orange juice (out of a packet!) all of which helped the rum go down. Very upmarket snacks and nibbles - venison and a local seaweed delicacy.
Then it was an early dinner as we were all feeling very tired after the nautical exertions!! Wish we could spend longer here because it's where the Diahot River, which is the longest river in New Caledonia, disgorges into the sea and there is apparently a very scenic dinghy trip possible up the river, but that would take at least another day and we need to press on. Who said the cruising life was cruisy?!!!
Cheers once again
Jim and Gina (Jean)

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Gite de Poingam - the northernmost extremity of mainland New Caledonia

Well, we haven't moved today and have spent the whole day here anchored off a beautiful white sand beach. We are anchored out about quarter of a mile from the beach because there is a very wide coral shelf which makes the beach almost inaccessible - certainly at low tide. So. we waited until about 11 before there was enough water for the dinghy and outboard and gingerly motored in. Beautiful day but still blowing quite hard from the SW.
By more good luck than management we landed almost exactly at the Gite which is not flash by any means but a lovely establishment right on the beach and secluded behind big trees with separate cabins for guests and a restaurant and bar. We enquired about lunch and that was all OK so we said we'd be back in an hour and set off on a walk up the back from where there was a great view out over the bay. They are also nature conservationists of a type with signs all over the place with information about flora and fauna but we didn't see much of either, it being all very arid and scrubby. However, lunch was good with a bottle of red - Jean had fish and Jim steak. A large friendly dog sat under our table and was surreptitiously fed with the occasional chip!
Then afterwards we wandered outside and sat under a tree on the beach and went to sleep! After waking a little later we saw David and Mary and the French couple from "Lifou" coming in so we waited for them on the beach, had a chat and then returned to the yacht while there was still sufficient depth. We've never fancied coming across the coral in the dark with minimal water. Rocks and outboard propellors are not a good mix!!
So now back on board for a good night's sleep before our next stage - 20 odd miles to Baie de Pam.
Cheers again from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
P.S. Wot's happening in Godzone lately?? Is Hone behaving himself, has the Maori Party disintegrated yet, how's the World Cup going, etc etc!!!!

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En mouillage a lat. 20 degrees 04.673' S long. 164 degrees 01.244' E

Hi,
Another update - we are now at anchor just outside the eastern entrance to Boatpass which is a non navigable channel (certainly for deep draught yachts)between the top of the mainland of New Caledonia and islands to the north. We left our anchorage on the west coast around 8 this morning and sailed briskly north in a gusty sou' wester until we came to Ile Taanlo right at the tip of NC. We have now been joined by a French boat "Lifou" and all 3 of us anchored off the northern end of Taanlo in the strong wind. "Lifou" and "Giselle" decided to go ashore to introduce themselves to the local chief and they were going to stay at anchor there tonight but Gina and Jim on "Tiare Taporo III" wanted to press on so we said we'd see them in a few days maybe out at the Loyalties and we weighed anchor and set sail. We had a few shoal areas to negotiate but after that and around the top we were heading south again into the teeth of the SW which at times was up to 24 knots. It's a point of sailing Tiare just loves and we romped along with reefed genoa, staysail and reefed main. Up to 6.8 knots with scuppers just under!! We only had about 6 miles to go and it was over all too quickly. Lovely sailing in flat water - mainly 60-70 feet deep and for once no near reefs to worry about. When we were close to the anchorage we doused the sails and cautiously motored in. We are anchored in a cleft in the fringing reef about 200 metres wide so plenty of room for us. Then we saw that the other two must have changed their minds as we spied them on the horizon heading our way.
We could see a beautiful white sand beach with apparently a very good restaurant at a local Gite (guest house). So, it was with expectations of food and wine that we launched the dinghy and headed shorewards only to be very frustrated by the fringing coral reef which looked menacingly shallow and threatening to inflatable dinghies and outboard motors. And as the tide was going out the prospect of returning in the dark with even shallower water didn't appeal at all so we reluctantly returned to the yacht and had dinner on board. "Giselle" and "Lifou" did make it ashore but we felt we made the right decision for us and we will go ashore on the morrow on a rising tide!!
All in all a very satisfying and enjoyable day with some great sailing (all too rare usually!) and we are now heading south. This is the northernmost tip of mainland NC and then we will visit Baie de Pam where there are some interesting old nickel mine workings and then Balade where Capt. Cook landed in 1774 when he discovered New Caledonia, which he then named after the Scottish landscape which NC reminded him of. After that Hienghene which will probably be our jumping off point for Ouvea in the Loyalties.
Today we have sailed 25 miles so tomorrow we'll spend mainly ashore before resuming our journey of discovery. It is certainly challenging and not a little stressful visiting places by boat where one has never been before and especially navigating around coral reefs in the lagoon environment. But it is great to have been able to circumnavigate mainly inside the barrier reef where water depths vary between 80 and 10 feet! Less if you try to cross a reef rather than go around. We are relying heavily on our chartplotter programme with Gina on the laptop calling instructions to Jim on the helm whenever we are getting close to something. Mark II eyeballs are also invaluable and fortunately when the sun is shining on the clear water it is easy to see shoals and reefs. Not so good on overcast days but the French charts and the buoyage system are accurate - unlike many of the Pacific Islands. All new and very good experience for us.
That's it for now folks - as always watch this space!!
Cheers and love from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Baie Banare

We seem to find pleasant places to stay and then dawdle instead of getting on with things!! The anchorage we were in turned out to be a private property owned by a Kanak family who we discovered had also had English ancestry way back - name of Williams!!! We went ashore and introduced ourselves and then David launched his little sailing dinghy which had a suit of pink sails and looked very pretty. He then invited 3 of the children out to their boat and then proceeded to give them sailing lessons which of course they accepted with alacrity and probably not too surprisingly they grasped the rudiments of sailing almost immediately. It must be instinct because all their lives they are on and around the sea and boats. Then after the children had gone back ashore Jim had a sail and it brought back memories of the "Tiare Taporo II" in the Bay of Islands. All in all very pleasant.
We invited the childrens' grandfather (Joe - pronounced Joey) out to our boat and we had morning tea while the kids sailed in circles around us much to everyone's amusement. Joe had given us many Papaya and Pamplemousse (tropical grapefruit). So our fruit cravings have been satisfied meantime. Joe was telling us that the family owned 2 bays next to each other and Joe's father had left one each to his 2 sons. He kept talking about "le succession" but we couldn't help wondering what will happen with the next generation with all their complicated relationships including adopted children and in-laws etc. Joe's son-in-law Jean-Paul had meanwhile gone to Noumea to purchase goods which he was then shipping to the Loyalties and Vanuatu for sale. He was going on the boat as well to supervise the sales and then returning home in about 10 days. Another relative was a tugboat driver for the nickel barges. Fascinating to know what people do for a living.
Then, imagine our surprise to see "Cigale" with Neil and Shannon sailing in. They'd just arrived back from Vanuatu and came into the northern lagoon on the offchance they would bump into us. It was great to see them and we had a BBQ on "Cigale" - we provided the sausages and ham and hard boiled eggs!! About 2100 it started to sprinkle with rain and so we returned to Tiare before getting drenched. It blew quite hard during the night and rained a fair bit but at least it was a bit cooler. It is now noticeably warmer and we feel much more in the tropics at last.
"Lifou" arrived this morning and so we are all together again. "Cigalle" left soon after as they still hadn't cleared Customs and they needed to get to Koumac to refuel before continuing on to Noumea. Then Neil has to be in Australia for his daughter's wedding in just a few days! The complications of the cruising life. Shannon will stay with the boat in Noumea meanwhile.
For us we moved all of one whole mile today to get some shelter tonight from the expected SW winds and then tomorrow we will be off again - this time around the northern extremity of New Caledonia (Isle Baaba) and a little distance down the east side where there is a Gite (guesthouse) and by all accounts a very fine restaurant!! However, we'll believe it when we see it. And it will depend on the weather as well of course with anchorages etc.
All this is still within the northern lagoon so we won't have to go outside the barrier reef until we go east to the Loyalties. There is still some debate with "Giselle" as to whether we go to to les Isles Belep (some 30 miles further north and inside the lagoon) but from the stories we have heard about the locals and the fact that they aren't very scenic makes us reluctant. We may go our separate ways for while until we meet again further south. Apart from anything else it is now Oct. 3rd. and we need to be in Bundaberg by late November at the latest. Hate these schedules but there you are - even in the cruising life they exist.
Our position tonight lat. 20 degrees 08.355' S long. 164 degrees 01.806' E
More later......
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Poum

After our disgruntled feelings about Poum yesterday we decided to go ashore again this morning and the place did slightly redeem itself because we found a very affable couple who had a roadside stall selling pawpaws and chokos!! It's amazingly difficult to find fresh fruit, especially from boat anchorages. You would think that in this climate that there would be fruit dripping from the trees but not so. Apart from the fruit stall Poum only had one general store where you couldn't even walk around within. No doubt because of security issues, but it did make choosing items difficult and can't have been good retail best practice!!
Then just as we arrived back on board with our booty "Giselle" arrived and they went ashore and discovered the pawpaw stall as well! So, everyone was a bit happier but then the wind was getting up from the north turning the Poum foreshore into a lee shore so we decided to head some 6 miles north to a bay sheltered from the northerlies. A gentle motor across saw us at anchor about 100 metres from a pleasant beach. That's about as close as you can normally get because of the annoying fringing platforms of coral which threaten outboard motor props!! Our position tonight is lat. 20 degrees 08.214' S long. 164 degrees 02.742' E.
Then just after we arrived we noticed that the water maker had stopped working. This was potentially serious because it's almost impossible to get water from the shore for some distance in front of us. So we investigated various avenues to no avail and then decided the problem must be the high pressure pump. So we ripped up the galley sole to get at the pump (no small task in itself) and found that it had been leaking oil and was completely out of oil. So, thinking the worst we topped it up and then started the engine and lo and behold it started working again. But it's strictly fingers crossed because we don't know whether or to what extent it may have been damaged. Apparently it's a cheap waterblaster pump and probably not up to the demands placed upon it in this situation. So that's another item that will need replacing when we get to Australia. The pump was sent away for overhaul a year ago and when it came back from the supplier in Opua Jim asked whether there had been anything found. The business owner replied that as we weren't paying for this service he would not tell us what if anything had been done!! Just a way of getting around the fact that nothing had been done we're sure. But it doesn't make you sleep any easier feeling that an essential piece of equipment may be less than reliable. Just another example of the shoddy Bay of Islands "refit" the boat went through in 2007.
Anyway, we're feeling much happier again now and had a pleasant time with David and Mary with drinks at sundown in the cockpit. They had caught a Spanish Mackerel on a lure on the way over earlier and very kindly gave us a portion which we had for dinner. Delicious.
Well, it's just past 2130 and well past our bedtime!!

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