Friday 13 December 2013

News from Kiwiland

Hi to all,
We thought it was time to regale you with more news! Quite a lot has happened in the past few weeks. We left Danga Bay on Nov. 26th. and had a seamless ride to Changi Airport in Singapore. Cost was SGD60 but worth every cent. We never even had to get out of the taxi. We arrived back in NZ on the morning of the 27th. after a 10 hour flight from Singapore to Auckland and were met by Perry, Jean's son. Then it was but a short ride to their home in Milford on the North Shore where we were to stay and Jean met her first grandchild, Carter James. An emotional time, particularly as Carter is her 1st grandchild. May there be many more!! Wonder whether Perry and Tracie are reading this!! Not to be outdone, Jim is also a new grandfather. Callum Patrick was born a few weeks later than Carter and Jim has yet to make the acquaintance with his 4th. grandchild!! This state of affairs has now been rectified and it was great to see his mother Rozanne again after many months. Apart from being a mother to 2 bouncing boys, she also holds down a senior teaching job at one of Auckland's most prestigious private girls schools and is a recent university graduate with a masters degree in education.
Sadly we are still involved with the fallout from the appalling business with "Tintin" and "Kealba". As a result we did have reservations about leaving our boat "Tiare Taporo III" after the physical assault on Jim and the later direct threat to us and our yacht by the gutless and anonymous leaving of a computer generated note on our foredeck reading "REMEMBER THE RAINBOW WARRIOR".
It now appears that "Kealba" is trying to suggest that we were somehow at fault in the incident at Kupang under some regulations governing boats at anchor. They don't appear to realise however that a boat dragging its anchor is legally not anchored and is considered to be "underway". We were not dragging and have NEVER dragged. Thanks to the Rocna. There are of course a whole lot of different regulations governing vessels underway - chief amongst those is the requirement for the Master and crew to be on board!! "Kealba" was unattended when she collided with us and so contravened those regulations. All common sense but certain people appear lacking in that commodity - no doubt in a futile attempt to evade their clear responsibility. We will be hauling out in east Johore when we return and to repair the damage it will almost certainly be necessary to remove the affected structures from the boat. This will at the very least incur labour cost. With a cursory look at the boat right now, one could be forgiven for thinking that the damage is negligible but when one realises the implications of the scope of repair work the picture changes.
We hope that "Kealba" assumes its responsibility and adequately compensates us for the damage they caused. But there has been no response from them to date and we have to say it isn't looking hopeful. However, we have in the meantime imposed a commercial lien on them which may well be influential in changing their attitude. As for "Tintin", we have reported their disgusting assault on us at Danga Bay to the Johor Police and they have passed the details on to the other state police and the Maritime Police. We hope that we never have the misfortune to ever see them again but the cruising world is a small one. We are ever mindful of their last threat which was "if you ever come into an anchorage where I am anchored, WATCH YOUR BACK". We have been talking to all our friends and acquaintances here in Whangarei, many of whom are part of the yachting/cruising world, and they are all horrified at our experiences. It is so unusual in the cruising world that it defies belief. However, it doesn't take much here to engender derogatory and often humourous comments about Australians. Our shipwright friend here, Noel Barrot, said "keep your hands off those Aussies!" However, we have of course met some great Australians and these incidents only negatively bolster the anti Aussie/Kiwi debate - notwithstanding that "Tintin" is a Pommy boat!! "Kealba" is of course an Aussie boat.
We apologise for re-litigating all the aforementioned but it is none of our doing and would all fade into the obscurity where it belongs as long as the people at fault front up to their responsibilities.
In the meantime we have had a wonderful time in Whangarei staying with our friends Hamish and Sara. Hamish is a stainless steel fabricator and has done many jobs on foreign boats visiting Whangarei. Sara is a chef. We have Perry's car while he is in Madrid checking out a job offer. One of our primary objectives while in Whangarei was to streamline our storage unit by downsizing. The local Hospice shop has been a beneficiary!! The weather was against us for a few days at the beginning but it has since cleared up and we have now finished!! Furniture is stacked to the roof.
There was a party last Saturday night a little way south of Whangarei at Jenny Hastie's house inland from Waipu. Jenny is a cousin by marriage of Jean's and a number of Jean's family members were there to "celebrate still being alive"!! A worthwhile cause indeed! After so long and all our diverse experiences it was good to catch up. The get together was great with good conversation and an excellent NZ style BBQ with pork chops and sausages. They have a house on a hill overlooking the bright green rolling hills of dairy country. The country always looks great at this time of year with the grass absolutely emerald green after the spring rains. We stayed the night and then it was into the storage unit move again which as stated is now finished. It has been a major task but all will be much streamlined from now on. It's amazing how voyaging under sail gives one a different perspective on material possessions, and while we aren't getting rid of everything by any means, we have removed much that is of no relevance to our present situation.
A few days ago we had the pleasure of meeting Neil Scott ("Galatea") again when he passed through Whangarei after attending a wedding in Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands. We had dinner with him and his Australian friend at a restaurant here in Whangarei and again it seemed so bizarre re-living our experiences in Indonesia in such a different setting. A very pleasant evening was had by all.
Jean's health is much improved since her nose operation at the KPJ Specialist Hospital in Johor. As we've said before we cannot praise the Malaysian medical system highly enough and would recommend it to anyone. Her lower back and hips were also scanned in Malaysia and fortunately all was clear. Since being back in Whangarei she has visited an osteopath for her hip ligament problems at the Rathbone Clinic and that along with exercise has been worthwhile in the continuing recovery process. Good osteopaths seem to be thin on the ground in all of the places we have been to recently, including we have to say, Queensland. However, notable exceptions to that were the two Emmett Therapy practitioners we discovered in Cairns and later in Darwin. She has been doing some lifting with the storage unit job though and this has set her back a bit but we are hoping that Pilates and some targeted exercise should ultimately fix this.
Staying with Hamish and Sara has been very relaxed and low key - just what we needed after all the pressures of the last 4 months following on from the Kupang dragging incident. They are hospitality personified and have also lent us their trailer to assist with the moving. Hamish has just acquired a new ute and has returned from Nelson where he went to purchase it. Very flash!! And it's a Holden - that will please the Aussies, notwithstanding that unless the Aussie Govt. comes up with more than the $500 million that they currently subsidise the car industry with, GM - Holden is likely to disappear from this part of the world for good in a couple of years and we will all be driving Chevrolets instead! In fact it has now been confirmed that GMH will no longer manufacture in Australia after 2016. It is estimated that this will cost upwards of 50,000 jobs.
Being in NZ in a totally different environment and doing mundane things like moving possessions and visiting the doctor seems quite bizarre after the experiences we have had since we left Cairns 8 months ago. It almost seems as though none of it ever happened - the Queensland coast, the Gulf of Carpentaria, Darwin and its associated tides, the fuel pump packing a sad on the way to Kupang on Timor, the Komodo dragons and all the other documented experiences throughout Indonesia. It all seems unreal from this distance.
We are now back in Auckland after spending a thoroughly pleasant night with Keith (Jean's brother) and Eileen just south of Wellsford on the farm that they manage. The farm was formerly owned by Richard Izard who manufactured tungsten tipped saw blades in Wellsford and achieved notable success in exporting his saw blades world wide in the 1980's. The business is now owned by the Irwin Tool Co. of the USA. The farm is immaculate and boasts its own aircraft landing strip. There are 7 Alpacas on the farm (an experimental hobby at this stage) and we watched at 0700 as they were gently driven/led to the woolshed for their annual clipping. You have to keep your distance from Alpacas as they apparently spit and always have 100% accuracy over an impressive distance! Full in the face and all slimy with semi digested grass. Reminded Jim forcibly of the disgusting lout on "Tintin" so he was especially careful!!
On the way back into Auckland we stopped at Rozanne's house to deliver some items from the storage unit that we had earmarked for her and finally made the acquaintance of Callum Patrick Donald. A bonny wee chap indeed and we have no doubt that he will live up to his illustrious name in whatever field of endeavour he engages in.
We continued on over the harbour bridge to Milford where we will be domiciled for a few weeks now. It's good to be back but we have enjoyed our time in Whangarei.
There will be more to come in due course but in the meantime we wish all our friends a very happy Christmas and NewYear where ever you are.
With very best wishes and love from us.............
Jim and Jean
Auckland
NZ

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Sunday 24 November 2013

Fwd: The end of a sad chapter - Sail Indonesia 2013.

----- Original Message -----
To: "Hamish & Sara" <bluedogstainless@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Fwd: The end of a sad chapter - Sail Indonesia 2013.
Date: 24 Nov 2013 15:26:13 -0000
From: zmq5985

----- Original Message -----
To: KF6YDZ@winlink.org
Subject: The end of a sad chapter - Sail Indonesia 2013.
Date: 24 Nov 2013 15:12:51 -0000
From: zmq5985

We must apologise for inflicting the following upon you but we feel an overwhelming urge to put matters straight. This will be our last public word concerning anything to do with Sail Indonesia 2013.
On November 22nd. we filed a Police report of the incident involving the owner of "Tintin" where he assaulted and spat at Jim on the marina at Danga Bay. He then compounded this by screaming at us "if you ever sail into an anchorage in future where I am anchored, WATCH YOUR BACK!". Our initial inclination had been not to involve the Police but Sail Malaysia requested that we do so. The Johor Police are notifying Police in other states as well as the maritime Police. A further part of this report referred to the placing of a computer generated note on our foredeck a couple of days later saying "REMEMBER THE RAINBOW WARRIOR". This of course is very sinister because the French Secret Service attached limpet mines to the hull of the "Rainbow Warrior" when she was berthed in Auckland Harbour in the mid 1980's and not only sank the ship, but caused the death of a crew member. However, the two key differences between then and now is that the persons involved in placing the note on our boat were absolutely anonymous and gutless, whereas at least the French had the courage of their convictions, however wrong, and the "Rainbow Warrior" was steel which made attaching limpet mines relatively easy whereas we are a timber hull and limpet mines would fall off!!
But all humour aside, the assault and subsequent placing of the written threat were unpleasant to say the least and amply illustrate the types of individuals capable of such acts.
As a further aside, we understand that the owner of "Tintin" approached Sail Malaysia as soon as he arrived in Port Dickson to say that he had not threatened or assaulted Jim. He is demonstrably an out and out liar and his tirade here at Danga was witnessed by several persons. The assault itself was witnessed by Peter Holland of "Kitanni" and frankly we are not in the habit of making false statements to the police in NZ, let alone in foreign countries. We rest our case.
The origins of all this appear, from what we have been able to deduce, to relate to the incident at Kupang where we sailed in without our engine and were met by Kevin of "Tintin" who apparently had offered and was therefore ostensibly supposed to assist us with sail handling. Instead his attitude was uncalled for as he attempted to take over the boat. We were supposed to have been met by some dinghies from other boats to act as tugs and guide us to our anchoring spot. However, in the conditions we were unable to see them and so Jim asked Kevin where we should anchor. His reply was "here, here" and so we dropped the anchor in 35 metres just behind the Australian boat "Kealba" which proved to have been a fateful decision. Kevin seems to have carried a grudge about this ever since as he denies that he ever told us where to anchor. What is the matter with this guy to have taken such a small issue so seriously? He also objected to another boat voicing concerns over the dangerous anchorages organised by Sail Indonesia - an entirely justifiable and seamanlike concern which we have expressed also, particularly in respect of Kupang. As a result he and his wife confronted Wendy of "Juliana II" here on the dock at Danga and launched a tirade at her while she was alone. This was a couple of days before his assault on us.
Then of course there is the unfinished business with "Kealba". In spite of dragging their anchor on to us and causing us damage which they are attempting to trivialise, they refuse to acknowledge any liability. In spite of many attempts on our part to have a reasonable discussion they ignore us and so after 4 months we have been backed into a corner and have placed a legal lien on their boat. This will not generate any payment any time soon but when they try to sell the boat the lien will take precedence over any other debts on the boat as well as the sale proceeds which will be held in escrow until our debt is satisfied. This debt will take into account the work that Simon did for us in temporarily fixing our engine problem. We regret having to take this step but have had no choice to protect our interests in a situation not of our making.
Anyway, ever since Kupang 4 months ago we have been increasingly aware of a cold shoulder treatment directed at us by mainly Australian and some U.K. boats - some of whom we had known since Cairns. Frankly they should have known better but they appear to have been captivated by the insidious and straight out nasty campaign which has been directed at us. We were never happier than when we were on our own or with other boats who took no notice of the gossip and standouts there for us were when we arrived at Rinja and Komodo direct from Kupang and met "Pedoja" and then later when we spent 2 weeks at Medana Bay, Lombok on our own (before the rally boats arrived) in the delightful company of Peter Cranfield, his wife Ace and Wulan and their staff. We also spent many pleasant times with Dennis and Marylee of "Lardo" and Neil, Julie and Bailey of "Galatea" while at Medana and also at Gili Air with "Galatea".
There were two specific incidents that we became aware of a while later. Firstly "Kularoo" with whom we had sailed across the top of the Northern Territory totally and inexplicably misunderstood a blog of ours in which we referred to a "scruffy" boat at Port Essington. This was NOT "Kularoo". They evidently bottled this up and finally placed a comment on our blogsite. We explained their error and all they did was withdraw the comment without a word of an apology. Secondly another strange scenario at Lovina Beach, Bali involving "Swara II". It was brought to Jean's attention by Jackie of "Tintin" that we were supposed to have dragged our anchor onto "Swara II". We have never dragged with our Rocna to date. We arrived back on our boat and the wind had swung putting us within a boat's length of "Swara II". We had a lot of chain out but as we had anchored after them we simply pulled our anchor up and re anchored. As we came past them before dropping the anchor again the woman on "Swara II" hysterically screamed at Jim "keep away from our boat"!! There was no reason for this display and it simply in a comical way demonstrates yet again the unreasonable attitude to us on the part of some boats.
These two incidents together with the childish back turning attitude shown to us generally have only gradually made sense since the "Tintin" incident here at Danga Bay. We have to say that in spite of all this nonsense, we have always enjoyed a great relationship with many of the European and north American boats we have met and in this regard must mention "Sternchen", "Micromegas II", "Libertad", "Reflections", "Lardo" and "Galatea". We have also enjoyed the company of "Settlement", "2XS" and "Pedoja" as well whenever our paths have crossed. There are many other boats as well and we cannot mention all of them here but hopefully they will know who they are.
There are two things that this sad business has taught us and they are that we certainly know who our friends are and that we will never consider another rally - ever. We will do our own thing in our own time and choose our own company. Many of the boats we have met in Sail Indonesia will not be part of that scenario in the future.
With very best wishes and fair winds to all our friends,
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
----- End of Original Message -----
----- End of Original Message -----

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Thursday 14 November 2013

Ill considered and ignorant comments

We are continually amazed at the purely ignorant comments that this unfortunate business has engendered.
The facts are very simple and speak for themselves.
We were directed to anchor in what turned out to be the wrong place. There was a convoy of dinghies deployed waiting for us at the correct spot but we didn't see them. There was a misunderstanding and when asked, the person who had ostensibly come aboard to assist us with sail handling told us to drop the anchor "now"! So we did. Maybe we should have checked the depth but instead relied on what we assumed would be local knowledge gained from having been there for a while.
The conditions when we anchored were difficult to say the least. There was a 25+ knot wind blowing, a 1 metre sea running and a 35 metre depth of water and we had no engine. In spite of all that our anchor held and WE DID NOT DRAG AT ANY STAGE!!
We are being villified right left and centre when we were not at fault in any way and in fact we are the victim because another boat "Kealba" dragged down onto us. In spite of some claims to the contrary, they told us they were not insured.
All we want is recompense for the damage sustained. We acknowledge that the owner of "Kealba" did some work on our engine and we are prepared to take that into consideration but until we know the cost of our repairs we cannot come to any finality.
We haven't had it assessed because we haven't been anywhere until now where it has been possible to do this. We have contacted a marine assessor here in Johor but he cannot see the boat until mid December and we will be back in New Zealand by then. So, the earliest date for assessment will be mid February 2014. That's just the way it is and not through any delays caused by us.
Finally we must comment that we have frequently heard incorrect comments made and when we try to correct this the answer is invariably "I don't want to talk about that!!" How you can have a reasoned discussion when faced with that attitude is beyond us.
At this stage the damage is that the pulpit is bent out of true and will probably have to be removed from the boat to be straightened. Not a small job. Then there are 2 bent stanchions and rails and possibly the starboard solar panel has been damaged. We say that because there is a strange reading coming up on the display.
Quite simply we just want an acknowledgement of how the damage occurred and confirmation that they will pay our reasonable costs of repairs. Easy so you would think..........

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Tiare Taporro/Kelaba incident

I fully support Jim Donald's position on uninsured boats not participating in organized rallies such as Sail Indonesia. A large numbers of boats in any one location always carries the risk of collision, especially in open roadstead anchorages as used at many of the Sail Indonesia designated stops. Rally organisers should require evidence of adequate 3rd party liability insurance from any boat seeking entrance to the rally. In my opinion, marinas should do likewise before permitting a boat to enter its waters, for similar concerns. I am not advocating the crazy A$10million levels of insurance required by most Australian marinas, but rather, something more reasonable.

It's one thing for a boater to not carry insurance for his particular vessel - that's his choice, but it is completely irresponsible to not carry 3rd party liability insurance. The reasoning one might adopt at the time of forgoing liability insurance, like "it won't happen to me", or, "if it does, I will do the right thing", is only good at the time of deciding whether to carry insurance or not.

Unfortunately, the reality is that when mishaps happen, as they will, things often end up in the situation being faced by Tiare Tapporo in its dealings with the owners of Kealba who appear to have forgotten their responsibility.

Neil Scott
S/V Galatea

Wednesday 13 November 2013

Nasty nasty business but many new friends and acquaintances

We've had a bit to say earlier today as regards the scurrilous campaign to discredit us in anonymous blogs. There are one or two further points we wish to make in respect of that.
If we hadn't been on our boat at Kupang when "Kealba" dragged onto us, she would have been lost - absolutely no doubt. In view of the fact that they were uninsured they owe us a huge debt which they are absolutely unwilling to acknowledge. We again remind "Kealba" that they promised to give us a letter acknowledging the incident but have since reneged on their word. This has forced us into taking the actions that we have subsequently taken.
There appears to be an organised cabal of exclusively Australian boats in this nasty whispering behind hands campaign. Absolutely no-one has directly fronted up to us.
We have also become aware that one of these heroes confronted the female partner on another boat because they also had had the temerity to question the competence of Sail Indonesia in directing boats to unsafe anchorages. This was done while her partner was away overseas and is to us the ultimate in cowardly behaviour.
They have questioned Jim's seamanship in anchoring in 35 metres at Kupang. In fact this same landlubberly hero was on board our boat as we approached the anchorage under sail only and we naturally asked him where we should be anchoring as we knew that things had been organised in advance on our behalf. He said "here, here" and so, Jim who was on the foredeck dropped the anchor. Had we been aware of the depth, we would in all probability not have anchored right there and would have sought a more secure spot.
So the seamanship question should be leveled at our so-called anchoring guide and also to the skipper of "Kealba" who dragged his anchor whilst unattended. By comparison our anchor held throughout the whole debacle in spite of only having a 2 to 1 anchor rode. Thank goodness for the Rocna.
Finally, we have been threatened with being sued for slander! This is laughable as slander only exists if the statements in question are untrue. In this case everything we have said is the absolute unvarnished truth.
Anyway, to forestall any further suggestions that we are simply being negative we felt we should mention all the great people we met on our travels through Indonesia:
Peter, Ace, Wulan, Sas and Sam and their staff at Medana Bay. We won't forget their help with procuring a new dinghy and all their other help and hospitality rendered during our stay at their beautiful beachfront property.
Matthew, the diesel mechanic at Kupang who solved our problem with the engine in a most resourceful manner. Jim won't forget his expertise and the rides through through Kupang streets on the back of his motorbike.
"2XS" - Peter and Marguerite. We met them originally at Bluewater in Cairns and we apparently were the catalyst for them coming on the rally! Hope they don't hold it against us too much!
"Asia" - Paul and Debbie who run their gorgeous 100' steel yacht in the high end charter market. The story of how they purchased the bare hull in NZ and fitted it out in NZ, Brisbane and Thailand to a very high standard is fascinating. The design is by John Brooke of NZ. She has a magnificent 8 cylinder Gardner which was taken from a NZ fishing boat and totally rebuilt. We first met them at Gilli Air, Lombok.
"Capricorn Dancer" - Rob and Carolyn who had problems with their steering at Kupang. Matthew hopefully sorted their problem as well and sailed with them as they resumed their journey.
"Camomile" - Sue and her husband. They organised the reception for us at Kupang when we arrived without an engine but sadly through a misunderstanding we were told to anchor in the wrong place with the result already well documented.
"Footloose" - Jon and Irena who we saw quite a bit of at Medana. They were moored close to us there just off the jetty.
"Forty-two" - Carsten und Mercedes. We caught up with them as we approached the top end of Queensland and have seen them off and on since then. A very friendly and pleasant German couple.
"Galatea" - Julie, Neil, Bailey & Teague. A delightful family originally from S Africa and now living in California. We saw quite a lot of them along the way and Bailey gave an excellent speech (some in Bahasa Indonesia) at the welcome dinner at Medana Bay. We first met them at Tipperary in Darwin and sadly they have now returned home to allow the other partner in the boat to take her north to Thailand from Singapore. We hope that we see them again soon either at Langkawi or in Thailand.
"Even Bet" - Ian and Janelle. We met them at Bluewater in Cairns and sailed with them for part of the way up the Queensland coast before they stopped for some serious fishing! They were going to completely explore the Gulf of Carpentaria before going on to the Kimberleys west of Darwin and then eventually returning to Cairns. We haven't heard for some time how they have fared and we hope everything has gone to plan.
"Blue Musketeer" - John and Val. We knew them very well at Bluewater and hope that they have managed to do some cruising around there during the dry season.
"Niccone" - Peter and Lena. They sail under the Finnish flag and were very helpful to us at Kupang when they lent us a portable generator (and fuel) so that we could keep our batteries charged until we got the engine going again.
"Juliana II" - Wendy and Stefan. They have a very impressive Jeanneau designed yacht. We have seen them off and on during our travels and they are moored close to us here at Danga Bay.
"Lardo" - Dennis & Mary-Lee. An American boat who we got to know at Medana Bay. Jean gave Dennis a massage for pain he was having in his hips but sadly it didn't really improve and they sailed from there non-stop to Singapore where they have left the boat so that Dennis could return to the States for treatment. The diagnosis was not good as it turned out that Dennis had advanced bone cancer. We were shocked to hear that and wish Dennis all the very best with his on-going treatment. We must also mention Jim who was their friend from San Francisco and acting as crew for the voyage through Indonesia.
"Libertad" - Dennis and Virginia. A very pleasant Canadian couple who we have come across several times on our voyaging.
"Lorrigray" - Lorraine & Graham Parkinson. An English couple who we first met at Bundaberg. They were still there during the recent floods and by all accounts had a torrid time of it but survived at least, albeit with some damage. It has been great to catch up with them along the way in various places.
"Micromegas II" - Fredy & Chantelle Haller. A very friendly and pleasant Swiss couple on their catamaran. We will look forward to seeing them again somewhere up north.
"Manta" - Denis from France. Denis ne parle pas beaucoup d'Anglais et Jim a essaye de parler Francais avec lui!!
"Out of the Blue II" - Chris and Lyn. We knew them quite well at Bluewater and they are now moored here at Danga Bay. We hope that Lyn recovers sufficiently so that they can sail with Sail Malaysia later this week. Jean organised an appointment for her to see a specialist at the same hospital where she had her nasal operation.
"Pedoja" - Tanya and Don. We have had many pleasant times with Tanya (from NZ) and Don (Canadian). We met them on the Australian coast and then later at Komodo we spent a few days anchored beside them in a delightful clear water anchorage. As our dinghy had been trashed at Kupang they made their dinghy available to us if we wanted it. We've had meals together and generally had a pleasant time whenever our paths have crossed.
"Pipistrelle" - Bob & Elaine. A very pleasant English couple we have met just recently here at Danga. They have already left for points north and we hope to see them up there again next year.
"Reflections" - Gene & Sheri Seybold. Gene was a great help to us in Kupang. He was one of 4-5 dinghies who used their combined power to force "Kealba" away from us before she could do any more damage. The next morning he returned and acted as a tug to move us closer in to shallower water and a more secure anchorage. Gene has been a great support to us, particularly over this latest development of unsubstantiated nasty stories fabricated and deliberately circulated by anonymous cowards.
"Scorpio" - Kevin & Melody. Bloody Aussies!!! We were moored beside them at Bluewater and then later came across them at Flinders Is. Always trading good natured Kiwi/Aussie jokes and jibes. They are great people - salt of the earth and we have enjoyed our association with them. We have lost their email address so hope all is well.
"Settlement" - Andrew & Sue. We first met them at Lizard Is. off the Queensland coast. We've socialised off and on since then - mostly on their catamaran as we lack the room. Saw them again at Sesia and then at Darwin. They took the northern route to Saumlaki so we didn't see them again until Medana Bay. Andrew's an Aussie but Sue's a Kiwi so that makes up for it!! A very pleasant and hospitable couple who left here 2 days ago to sail north. We will miss them and hope that we catch up next year when we sail north in February.
"Skybird" - Jim & Liz Dabelstein. Jim is an ex police officer from WA and we met them at Bluewater in Cairns. They have a lovely German Shepherd called Ash who reminded Jim of his own much loved and missed German Shepherd, Friedl. They've sailed their catamaran from Bluewater to Darwin and then to the Kimberleys. Last we heard they were back at Sesia waiting for favourable winds to sail back down the Queensland coast to Cairns. Hope those pesky SE winds change soon!!
"Sternchen" - Manuela und Georg. A delightful German couple who we first met at Tipperary in Darwin. Jean had a tearful radio conversation with Manuela at Kupang soon after the incident with "Kealba" - and that's not like Jean. We've seen them along the way since then and they are berthed quite close to us here at Danga. We had dinner with them at the seafood restaurant here at Danga the other night. Lots of laughs at Georg's English although we have to say it's a lot better than our German! Manuela is very competent with her English though and routinely translates for Georg which usually causes more hilarity!
"Beyond" - Stuart MacDonald. Stuart is a Scottish master mariner (with some great stories) who is sailing single handed around the world. We met Stuart at Tipperary and last we heard he was well advanced across the Indian Ocean on his way to the Cape of Good Hope. We have the utmost admiration for courageous mariners like Stuart and trust that he will safely arrive on the Clyde River in Glasgow sometime next northern summer.
"Tuppenny" - Gillie and Ruth. Not sure what has happened to Gillie and Ruth who we originally met in NZ. They had an engine transplant in Darwin and were intending to do sail Indonesia this year but with their delays maybe they've decided it's next year instead. Hope we eventually do catch up somewhere.
"Westwind" - Chris & Gilli Dicker. Chris is an Aussie and Gilli is a German who teaches in Cairns. We knew them at Bluewater and they also have a timber built double ender - about the same size as us. Last summer they sailed to Tasmania for the biennial wooden boat festival. We keep in touch periodically and hope they are getting some sailing in between jobs on boats.
"Back Chat" - Irvin and Jenny. They were also at Bluewater and we have seen them periodically ever since all the way up the Australian coast and through Indonesia. Their catamaran is also berthed here at Danga and they are staying here for sometime while they source new engines as the old ones are apparently past their use by date!! Irvin is a NZ'er who has lived in WA for some time and Jenny is a true blue Aussie!
"Thylacines" - Gerry and Sue. The name is the species name of the probably extinct Tasmanian Tiger.
Well, that's it. Hope we haven't left anyone out but if so our apologies and it's only geriatric forgetfulness!!
Cheers again from us........
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
P.S. Joke of the day in the words of the late and unlamented NZ Prime Minister - the Rt. Hon. Robert Muldoon. New Zealand emigration to Australia raises the IQ level in both countries!

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Saturday 9 November 2013

Fwd: Australian registered s.v. "Kealba" Reg. no. 860711

----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Fwd: Australian registered s.v. "Kealba" Reg. no. 860711
Date: 09 Nov 2013 13:46:33 -0000
From: zmq5985

Hi to all,
It is with great relief that we can report that Jean has come through an hour and a half of surgery to remove polyps growth from her nasal passages with flying colours. We have nothing but the highest praise for the treatment she has received at the KPJ Specialist Hospital here in Johor. She has had a private ensuite room and the surgeon, "Ravi" and the entire medical staff have been exemplary. Ravi trained for his FRCS in Edinburgh and his wife is an eye surgeon. She will still need treatment for her hips and thighs but all scans (X-Ray, CT, MRI & bone density) indicate that there is no structural problem but rather that the problem is with ligaments and some suitable treatment for that (such as Emmett Therapy) will be necessary. We will be working on that during our remaining time here before returning to NZ in early December and then carrying on with it in NZ.
Jean will be back on board Tiare tomorrow and, while it has been peaceful in her absence (!), it will be great to have her back. She will be her old self plus some no doubt!!!
She will need some time to recover from the surgery so we have decided for the boat to remain here at Danga until mid February when we will sail north to Pangkor where we will haul out for some much needed maintenance.
On a more sober note we attach some email correspondence which has emanated from the unfortunate incident we were involved with at Kupang when we arrived in Indonesia. "Kealba" is currently in the Danga Bay Marina and thankfully is moored nowhere near us. We think there is a real concern with having uninsured boats in close quarters with other boats in a marina situation and our purpose in pointing this out is to try and ensure that it is not allowed to occur in future.
Having no insurance is a form of freeloading potentially at other boats' expense. It may once (maybe) have been acceptable pre the marina era but nowadays it's a no-no, absolutely. How they live with their consciences in refusing to acknowledge any liability to us, much less offering any form of financial recompense is beyond us but they no doubt have some form of spurious reasoning.
Our insurance company will no doubt pursue them but all of this would be unnecessary if they acted honourably and acknowledged their responsibilty.
More to come no doubt.......
Lotsaluv
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
----- Original Message -----
To: "Danga Bay Marina - Malaysia" <marina@dangabay.com>
Cc: marina@oceanmarinayachtclub.com, info@yacht-haven-phuket.com, webmaster@royalphuketmarina.com, marina@phuketboatlagoon.com, info@telagaharbour.com, office@langkawiyachtclub.com, marina@rebakmarina.com, "Sail Malaysia" <mail@sailmalaysia.net>, "Sail Indonesia" <mail@sailindonesia.net>, "Pangkor Marina" <pangkormarina@icloud.com>, "Puteri Harbour Marina Malaysia" <puteriharbour@uemsunrise.uemnet.com>, "Admiral Marina - Port Dickson" <prakashreddy@admiralmarina.com.my>
Subject: Australian registered s.v. "Kealba" Reg. no. 860711
Date: 08 Nov 2013 13:49:00 -0000
From: zmq5985

Hi,
It is with regret that we feel that we must pass on our concerns regarding the Australian registered s.v. "Kealba". They were part of Sail Indonesia 2013 (as we were also) and as far as we know they have registered for Sail Malaysia.
They were in collision with us at Kupang, W. Timor, Indonesia on July 31st. 2013 when they dragged their anchor while unattended and collided several times with our bow and starboard side. Hopefully the damage is not great but we won't know the extent until we can have it properly quantified when we are at Pangkor.
The main point we wish to make is that "Kealba" is NOT insured, or at least wasn't when the incident occurred. This is we believe the reason that they will not sign a statement stating what happened and neither will they meet our costs of repairs, in spite of the fact that they are clearly liable and responsible. We have made a claim on our insurance company but we will have to pay the excess unless they admit their liability.
We consider that it is totally unethical to join a rally and especially to expect to enter marinas with no insurance - to say nothing of the way they have dismissed our claim against them. Fortunately we have a written witness statement and we have also been in touch with the Australian Registrar of Ships who will provide their address in Australia. All of these details will be passed on to our insurance company.
Incidentally we were recently told that we could have reported the incident to the Port Captain at Kupang with the result that "Kealba" would not have been allowed to leave Indonesia until the matter had been resolved to our satisfaction. However, unfortunately we did not know this and so the matter remained officially unreported - apart from the insurance claim.
We are drawing your attention to the foregoing because we believe that there is a real issue of concern with vessels which are uninsured from the point of view of any marina they may enter, and also from the point of view of the organisers of any rally they may be part of because there could be substantial legal ramifications arising out of any accident causing not only damage to other vessels, but also to the marina, to say nothing of the possibility of negligence claims against the marina itself. This latter situation could arise out of the marina not having used due diligence in making sure that ALL vessels in the marina have adequate insurance.
We hope that our unfortunate experience provides a wake-up call to all concerned to ensure that all vessels meet their legal and ethical responsibility in having adequate insurance for their own protection as well as protection for any owner of other property that could be damaged.
We trust that in respect of any uninsured vessels you will in future refuse admission to your marina and registration for any rally you may be part of to ensure that all parties and stakeholders are adequately protected
Regards,
Jim Donald
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johor Bahru
Malaysia
----- Original Message -----
To: "Kealba - Simon, Kym & Jolan" <spurdell66@gmail.com>
Subject: (no subject)
Date: 30 Oct 2013 13:28:01 -0000
From: zmq5985

Hi Simon,
It is indeed disappointing that you have so far seen fit to refuse to sign the report of the dragging incident that damaged our boat at Kupang, Indonesia. It is after all just a confirmation of what did actually occur.
We will be proceeding with our insurance claim and it is fortunate that we have independent witnesses who will verify what happened - even if you won't. We have also been in touch with the Australian Registrar of Ships who will provide your contact details which we will pass on to our insurance company.
We hope that you will reconsider your position and again point out that had we not been on board our boat that day, it is our opinion that your boat would have drifted into deep water and therefore stood an excellent chance of being lost. In view of the fact that you have no insurance we consider that you owe us a debt of gratitude for that at least.
Finally, we ask where is the justice in our having to stand the insurance excess for something that was caused by you? The damage we are sure isn't great but this needs to be quantified. As the responsible party you need to front up to your responsibilities.
We hope to hear from you in the near future.
Regards,
Jim Donald
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johor Bahru
Malaysia.
----- End of Original Message -----
----- End of Original Message -----
----- End of Original Message -----

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Friday 8 November 2013

Australian registered s.v. "Kealba" Reg. no. 860711

Hi,
It is with regret that we feel that we must pass on our concerns regarding the Australian registered s.v. "Kealba". They were part of Sail Indonesia 2013 (as we were also) and as far as we know they have registered for Sail Malaysia.
They were in collision with us at Kupang, W. Timor, Indonesia on July 31st. 2013 when they dragged their anchor while unattended and collided several times with our bow and starboard side. Hopefully the damage is not great but we won't know the extent until we can have it properly quantified when we are at Pangkor.
The main point we wish to make is that "Kealba" is NOT insured, or at least wasn't when the incident occurred. This is we believe the reason that they will not sign a statement stating what happened and neither will they meet our costs of repairs, in spite of the fact that they are clearly liable and responsible. We have made a claim on our insurance company but we will have to pay the excess unless they admit their liability.
We consider that it is totally unethical to join a rally and especially to expect to enter marinas with no insurance - to say nothing of the way they have dismissed our claim against them. Fortunately we have a written witness statement and we have also been in touch with the Australian Registrar of Ships who will provide their address in Australia. All of these details will be passed on to our insurance company.
Incidentally we were recently told that we could have reported the incident to the Port Captain at Kupang with the result that "Kealba" would not have been allowed to leave Indonesia until the matter had been resolved to our satisfaction. However, unfortunately we did not know this and so the matter remained officially unreported - apart from the insurance claim.
We are drawing your attention to the foregoing because we believe that there is a real issue of concern with vessels which are uninsured from the point of view of any marina they may enter, and also from the point of view of the organisers of any rally they may be part of because there could be substantial legal ramifications arising out of any accident causing not only damage to other vessels, but also to the marina, to say nothing of the possibility of negligence claims against the marina itself. This latter situation could arise out of the marina not having used due diligence in making sure that ALL vessels in the marina have adequate insurance.
We hope that our unfortunate experience provides a wake-up call to all concerned to ensure that all vessels meet their legal and ethical responsibility in having adequate insurance for their own protection as well as protection for any owner of other property that could be damaged.
We trust that in respect of any uninsured vessels you will in future refuse admission to your marina and registration for any rally you may be part of to ensure that all parties and stakeholders are adequately protected
Regards,
Jim Donald
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johor Bahru
Malaysia
----- Original Message -----
To: "Kealba - Simon, Kym & Jolan" <spurdell66@gmail.com>
Subject: (no subject)
Date: 30 Oct 2013 13:28:01 -0000
From: zmq5985

Hi Simon,
It is indeed disappointing that you have so far seen fit to refuse to sign the report of the dragging incident that damaged our boat at Kupang, Indonesia. It is after all just a confirmation of what did actually occur.
We will be proceeding with our insurance claim and it is fortunate that we have independent witnesses who will verify what happened - even if you won't. We have also been in touch with the Australian Registrar of Ships who will provide your contact details which we will pass on to our insurance company.
We hope that you will reconsider your position and again point out that had we not been on board our boat that day, it is our opinion that your boat would have drifted into deep water and therefore stood an excellent chance of being lost. In view of the fact that you have no insurance we consider that you owe us a debt of gratitude for that at least.
Finally, we ask where is the justice in our having to stand the insurance excess for something that was caused by you? The damage we are sure isn't great but this needs to be quantified. As the responsible party you need to front up to your responsibilities.
We hope to hear from you in the near future.
Regards,
Jim Donald
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johor Bahru
Malaysia.
----- End of Original Message -----

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Monday 4 November 2013

Fwd: Good health news

----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Good health news
Date: 04 Nov 2013 13:18:38 -0000
From: zmq5985

We have been mightily relieved today to find that Jean's hip problems (which remain very painful and debilitating) are not associated with her hip joints. After a visit today to an Orthopaedic Surgeon at the KPJ Specialist Hospital here in Johor this was the finding and she also had a bone density scan as well as a CT scan and chest X-Ray. All clear except that she needs to find someone (Emmet Therapy or good Osteopath) who can straighten out her twisted ligaments.
The other issue was her breathing difficulty which turns out to have been caused by the growth of many polyps in her nasal passages including those behind and above her eyes. One lung is almost totally non functional due to the blockages caused by the polyps. It now seems apparent that this condition has been getting worse since leaving NZ in 2011 (in spite of having seen a chest/ENT specialist before leaving NZ) and it is a testament to her fortitude that she has coped with often very trying conditions for many weeks and 7,500 miles since the Bay of Islands 28 months ago. In the middle of all that of course she returned to NZ for 6 weeks to nurse her sick sister in 2012. She is a trooper absolutely without question and hopefully will be her old self once the necessary nasal surgery is completed.
So, today we had 3 specialist visits (ENT & Orthopaedic) as well as the tests described above and she is scheduled for surgery on Thursday the 7th. November to remove the said polyps. The system here is so efficient and blows the NZ system out of the water. We have had 4 specialist visits since last Friday, all tests with results notified immediately and organised surgery for Thursday all during today. All within 2 floors of the same hospital - KPJ Specialist Private Hospital. And the costs -
visits to specialists (ENT & Orthopaedic) including all scans and tests as above - 1100 Ringgits
2 nights in a private room - 500 Ringgits
Surgery estimated at - 6700 Ringgits
Total - 8300 Ringgits = NZD3,200
The standard of the hospital would equal the best private (Southern Cross) hospitals in NZ and would be well in excess of our public hospitals in terms of efficiency, caring and cleanliness.
This would simply not happen in NZ or Australia and is totally mind blowing. It puts our countries to shame and is why so many health refugees from Aust and NZ are travelling to SE Asia for various treatments. Here in Malaysia it is referred to as "health tourism".
Malaysia is certainly NOT 3rd. World - by comparison NZ is, or is bordering on it.
We are not sure now whether to continue north on the boat once Jean has recovered (about the 15th.) or to leave the boat here until we return from NZ towards the end of January and then head north. We'll make this decision in the next few days and will let you know.
In the meantime we'll continue to prepare the boat for an extensive 2 month lay-over, whether here or in Pangkor.
Keep watching this space.............
Lotsaluv from us,
Jim and Jean
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----- End of Original Message -----

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Thursday 31 October 2013

Danga Bay and Singapore

Hi again to all.........
The marina here is very friendly and helpful with most things but very run down as it is being relocated in the near future and hasn't had any work done for a while. But there are good restaurants (seafood and Italian) and the city of Johor Bahru is only a short taxi or bus ride away. Taxis are cheap - about 8 Ringgits for a 10 minute ride into Johor. That's just over NZD3. We have found supermarkets and a very good fresh food market as well as getting SIM cards for our phone and mobile broadband.
We also went to Singapore 3 days ago just for 2 days and 1 night. Getting through the border checkpoint at the Causeway across to Singapore is a total rigmarole with endless walking and then we had no Sing dollars so had to find an ATM to get some before we could get a bus to the MRT (train) station. Nothing is straightforward with almost a total dearth of signage. Fairly frustrating but eventually we made it through and arrived at the Kranji MRT station. The MRT is very efficient and clean so we had a very pleasant trip into town, even if we did have to change trains twice. Many Malaysians commute every day to Singapore as the wages there are higher than Malaysia but they still live in Malaysia as the cost of living here is much lower than Singapore. So, they have to go through the border rigmarole twice a day - don't know how they put up with it.
We eventually arrived at the Chinatown station and disembarked to find our hotel - the Santa Grand. Comfortable but with rooms like shoeboxes although with our own ensuite. But clean and friendly and helpful. At SGD120 per night this is very definitely at the lower end of the accommodation scale - you could pay $1000's!
Our main purpose in coming to Singapore was to query our existing bank account and possibly open a new one with another bank. In the event that is what happened as the previous bank had been insisting on ridiculous minimum balances with fees to match! We made an appointment for the following day and in the meantime checked out where they were. We then went to the Marina Sands complex down on the waterfront which is a fantastically upmarket shopping complex on many levels - the shops were mind blowing. Next door there was the well known 3 towers with a structure resembling a boat stretched across the top. We had seen it before but had never been to the top so we purchased tickets for SGD17 apiece and hurtled upwards at ear popping speed for 57 floors. Unfortunately it had started to rain when we got to the viewing deck so we got a blurry view of things and the view wasn't all that spectacular anyway. Once down at the bottom we thought it might be good to have a drink at a bar we came across - nothing particularly flash but it cost us SGD32 for a beer and an Irish cider for Jean!! Won't be doing that again. Then it was back to the hotel for a shower and a lie down before venturing out again just around the corner for a Chinese meal in Chinatown. A couple of handles of Tiger beer and a very good Chinese meal much cheaper than at Marina Sands and Jean bought a handmade handbag from a Thai lady at one of the many stalls around there. Then a much needed sleep.
The next day off again to the banks. The address was Claymore Hill near Orchard Rd. We closed our existing account and then went into a shopping mall to find the local branch of Standard Chartered Bank. This we did and opened the new account with little problem. We knew the documentary requirements so all went off without a hitch. Even had new ATM cards issued on the spot but now we cannot work out how to activate them!! Always some hitches. Amazing shopping malls - this one had 4-5 levels below ground and so many shops. But with over 5 million people on a small island like Singapore they all seem to do a thriving trade. Had a great lunch at one of the myriads of eateries - Jean said her salad was one of the best she had ever had. Then it was back to Johor. We caught a cab to the checkpoint as they are cheap and we needed to relax in the car's airconditioning! Once more through the bureaucratic maze and then a short cab ride back to Danga Bay.
We are feeling very jaded - exhausted may be a better word - after 3 months in Indonesia and for that reason and also so that Jean can seek medical treatment for her hips and breathing issues, we have decided to stay on at Danga for about another 2 weeks. This will have the added advantage that when we do finally sail north we will be with Sail Malaysia which should be beneficial. Jean was going to travel from Pangkor to Penang for the medical issues but we are assured that the facilities here are at least as good as Penang and the hospital is part of the same group of private hospitals throughout Malaysia. First appointment this afternoon so we'll let you know.
The weather is hot and sultry - you only have to move and you perspire. There are thunderstorms most afternoons with the usual forked lightning and thunder crashing around with torrential rain.
Apart from that it's all good - keep watching this space.
Cheers and lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johor
Malaysia.

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Saturday 26 October 2013

Fwd: MALAYSIA AT LAST!!!!! Danga Bay Marina Lat. 01 degree 28.5' N Long. 103 degrees 43.4' E

----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: MALAYSIA AT LAST!!!!! Danga Bay Marina Lat. 01 degree 28.5' N Long. 103 degrees 43.4' E
Date: 25 Oct 2013 05:51:30 -0000
From: zmq5985

It's hard to believe but we have finally arrived in Malaysia. This has been our endgame since leaving NZ but we were so tired yesterday that it was difficult to feel any elation. However, there is definitely a sense of quiet achievement. We are here!!! It's been a long way.
We finally received the necessary and endless paperwork via Customs and Sail Indonesia which enabled our departure. Just as an aside the IDR745,000 had to be paid in cash, whereas all marina charges could be paid by credit card. Just as well, because we only had just over a million left in cash and the only ATM for miles was inoperable!! Only in Indonesia. And what is it with the requirement for cash only?? Makes one wonder where the cash ends up.
We left Nongsa Point (and Indonesia) at 0630 yesterday (24/10) in overcast conditions and a 10-15 knot wind from the SW - on the nose as usual. Had the main up but really only to help dampen any rolling. We followed the "inshore route" along the north coast of Batam. The intention was to anchor for the night off one of the many islands west of Batam as the total passage was 51 miles and we thought it would be best to break the journey. That would normally take us 10-11 hours under power but we found that with the tidal current in our favour we were doing over 7 knots over the ground which was making a huge difference. So, when we were opposite the Singapore Straits crossing point, we made a snap decision to scrap the anchoring idea and head straight for Danga. In the end we took 8 hours for the passage - an average speed of 6.4 knots. We had an excellent view of the tall buildings that litter the Singapore CBD as we passed along.
Before we arrived at the crossing point we had to dodge a number of tugs and barges as they were like us keeping to the south of the main shipping lane. All exciting stuff and designed to keep you on your toes! At one stage we passed between two barges with about 50 metres from each one port to starboard. At a closing speed of at least 10 knots it causes a bit of a knot to form in the pit of one's stomach! There had been a beacon to port marking a nasty rock and to starboard was the major shipping channel with one ship after another all powering along remorselessly so not much choice really. The number of ships using the Singapore Straits always amazes. The Rule of the Road at Sea (Colregs) stipulates that you keep right so the west-east passge was nearest to us and we were going east-west.
So, when we decided to cross we were at a point where the crossing was as near as possible to right angles to the shipping lane directions. We waited for a break in the west-east traffic (much like crossing the road) and turned to starboard heading for the Raffles Light on the end of Senang Island, Singapore. There is a gap in the middle between the two lanes and we had to wait there for about 10 minutes while a tardy car carrier trundled past coming from our starboard side. Then we started moving again and headed NW 9 miles across the ship anchorage before arriving at the massive reclamation west of Jurong Island. There were ships everywhere of all shapes and sizes - gas tankers and container ships in the main. All swinging around their anchors costing their owners heaps.
Then a 45 degree course change as we came up to the reclamation and we were at last entering the lower reaches of the Straits of Johore between Singapore Island and the Malaysian mainland. The channel was all very well marked and this part of the journey became quite boring as it seemed to go on forever and the landscape on each side was flat and uninteresting. We passed under the new and massive Tuas Bridge just after Raffles Marina on the Singapore side. The bridge has a clearance under the main span of 25 metres - plenty for us as our masthead is only 14 metres above the water. The bridge itself is an impressive modern concrete structure with a huge complex on the Singapore side for controlling the border. Singapore is very security conscious as we were shadowed by various Singapore Coastguard/Police launches all the way from the bridge to Danga. Always up to a quarter to half a mile astern but always there. One wonders what they would have done if we'd dropped the anchor!
We were then approaching Danga which is just 3 miles short of the famous Causeway, across which the Japanese invaded Singapore in 1942. We could not see any markers for the entrance so things were getting a bit stressful (again!!) until we finally raised them on the radio and they talked us in. But coping with the boat and trying to understand Malaysian English over the radio made for rather a trying time all the while nervously watching a jetblack thunderstorm with the usual forked lightning only a short distance inland. However, it left us alone and eventually moved away.
Finally we spied some frantically waving characters on a dock a short distance ahead and once we had fenders and lines rigged we moved in.
Danga is really quite unattractive. A low lying shoreline and brown water. Lots of sand bars and much industrial activity taking place including dredging the marina approaches and work going on in the marina complex itself. But very friendly and relaxed.
Had dinner last night at a seafood restaurant and NOT cheap - MYR107 (Ringgits) which is NZD41.
Then to bed and a deep sleep. Tomorrow is another day.
Lotsaluv from us..........
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johore Bahru
Malaysia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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Monday 21 October 2013

Nongsa Point Marina Lat. N 1 degree 11.8' Long. E 104 degrees 05.9'

We arrived at Nongsa Point yesterday (the 21st.) We left the anchorage at Pulau Raja at 0730 and motored north past an amazing industrial/mining development onshore which seemed to extend north along the coast for some 5 miles or so. The area or town is known as Kabil and is just another example of Asian industry which leaves Australia and NZ for dead. This would only be a small example but is indicative of energetic Asian development as the world's new economic powerhouse. As we motored north we passed rows of ships and barges at anchor waiting to load. All very straightforward as the channel was well marked and for once the chartplotter seemed to agree with where we were!
We continued north following the Batam coast around in an increasing NW/W direction until not far from the Nongsa Point entrance another of these electrical thunderstorms hit us. The wind had been well below 10 knots but suddenly came up to 30 right on the nose with an unpleasant steep sea. We continued plugging into it (wind and heavy rain) for a while but then decided that, as we weren't entering the marina in these conditions, we would seek respite and headed inshore where we obtained a welcome lee in calm water and anchored in just over 20'. Had a cup of tea and finally made contact with the marina on the phone as they hadn't been answering the VHF. However, they still couldn't give us a berth number much less tell us which side we would be tying up to so we were still unable to rig fenders or mooring lines. Anyway, we got them out from under the cockpit sole and then weighed anchor and set off once more. As we came closer we could see the tall buildings on Singapore Island a few miles from here and also the Singapore Straits with endless processions of ships heading to and from the Far East. We'll have to cross those straits in a few days which should be fun with these maritime behemoths bearing down on our puny 12.5 metre yacht!! The approach was easy and well marked and once inside the marina boat came out to meet us. Finally they told us which side we were berthing to so we rigged our lines and headed into the berth where we are berthed alongside a Canadian boat - "Nahanni". Another boat told us they had been to the rally anchorage on the neighbouring island of Bintan about 12 miles away but left after a sleepless night in a rolly and dangerous lee shore anchorage. These electrical storms would be blowing straight in there so it would not be good to say the least.
The marina has a bit of a roll - about the same as Bundaberg - but is otherwise very swish and upmarket. We treated ourselves to lunch in the restaurant and then organised a visit to a local doctor to have a look at Jim's leg which had become infected after what we think was another insect bite. Jean had had him on antibiotics for the last 3 days and had been placing charcoal poultices on the affected area which had been improving the situation. The marina provided a vehicle and driver free of charge so after dinner (the doctor was only available at night) we headed off - only about a 7 minute drive. The doctor was very pleasant with a beautiful nurse who took Jim's blood pressure which surprisingly remained well within acceptable limits!! He diagnosed an extreme allergic reaction rather than infection as such which was a relief and so we left armed with antihistamine tablets and ointment. Hopefully that will finally clear things up.
Sail Indonesia appears to be dragging the chain as far as organising our Customs clearance is concerned as they have known for weeks that we intended to clear out of Nongsa. All the boats here are complaining about the same thing and one can only speculate at the reason. Suffice it to say that once again they try to entice boats to Bintan which seems a dangerous anchorage in prevailing conditions and if you elect to do something else they are no longer interested in you. Another boat here (not in the rally) arrived and cleared out within 24 hours and at no cost whereas we are subjected to infuriating and unreasonable delays because it seems we are part of the rally. And it's going to cost us IDR 745,000 (NZD80) whereas there is no cost if you travel independently or put up with a largely untenable anchorage on Bintan. Another example of Sail Indonesia putting their commercial and political interests first at the expense of the rally participants. We are going to contact SI today and tell them that unless we have clearance organised within 24 hours we will be contacting the NZ Embassy in Jakarta and make an official complaint about deliberate withholding of the necessary documentation.
The "stragglers" arrived later yesterday as well ("Settlement", "Pedoja", "Screensaver", "Libertad", "Tropicali") to name but a few. "Stragglers" is a sobriquet self imposed by "Settlement"! "Galatea" should arrive today.
As always watch this space!
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Nongsa Point Marina
Indonesia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Sunday 20 October 2013

Pulau Raja Lat. N 1 degree 01.4' Long. E 104 degrees 09.6'

We left Mesanak with few regrets at 0530 today (Sun. 20th.) At around 0330 we were awakened from a deep sleep by the wind howling and, as we were being held sideways by the tidal current, the boat was heeling and starting to feel somewhat uncomfortable. At this time of the year which is the start of the wet season these nasty little electrical storms whistle through with startling regularity. They usually last 30 - 60 minutes and generate sudden high winds from a generally unpredictable direction. In addition there is torrential rain (thank goodness we re-caulked the decks!) but the worst is the forked lightning. The rain and wind can be dealt with but a direct hit from forked lightning would be devasting and doesn't bear thinking about. At least our mast is wooden and not so tall but this by no means guarantees immunity. So, all we can do is cross fingers. We have attached a length of wire from the lower port cap shroud into the water in the hope that if there was a strike, the charge would be diverted into the sea. But there is no predicting the path a lightning strike will take.
We motorsailed as per usual north west passing various islands (Pulaus). The wind was generally only about 10 knots and 15 degrees to port of our course so, unless we wanted to be out here all night, motorsailing was the answer. Karas Besar to port and Pangkil and Lobam to starboard. Many ships in the shipping channel south from Singapore so it was constant vigilance. We were sailing just astern of an American yacht, "Rutea" and asked them where they intended to anchor for the night. We'd had an anchorage on the other side of the Selat Riau but they mentioned this one so we elected to follow them as some knowledge was better than none at all! On the way in we ran through yet another electrical storm which was frightening as not only was there heavy rain and strong wind but frequent close bursts of forked lightning with gunshot thunder. We just kept our fingers crossed and it worked!
We threaded our way in through some small islands around reefs and tidal currents. The original anchorage proved to be untenable due to said currents and ferry wash from frequent high speed ferries. There was an industrial port with some sort of mining operation ashore - just like New Caledonia where they carve a hill away to nothing.
We then retraced our steps and eventually anchored as above. Not terribly salubrious but at least it's sheltered with not so much current. There is a village on stilts over the water but it all looks quite impoverished. We saw people out on the reef and others in small boats collecting seaweed so it appears to be very much a subsistence existence.
Tomorrow the last lap in the journey out of Indonesia when we arrive at Nongsa Point Point Marina on the NE end of Pulau Batam. Only 18 miles from here so shouldn't take too long.
More coming so watch this space!
Lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Raja
Indonesia.

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Saturday 19 October 2013

(no subject)

Had to share our news just to hand. Jim is now a Grandad for the 4th. time. Callum Patrick Donald arrived yesterday at 1338 - 8lbs exactly. His mother Rozanne and Callum are all well. So now we have "Grandad" and well as "Granny" on the "Tiare Taporo III"!! Such fertility between the two of us!! Just boasting at our time of life!! Hope to see you all soon - we are almost at Nongsa Point, Pulau Batam.
Lotsaluv from us again...........
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxo
s.v. Tiare Taporo III

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s.v. Tiare Taporo III at Pulau Mesanak Lat. N 00 degrees 25.3' Long. E 104 degrees 30.2'

We left Kentar this morning at 0730 and spent the next hour or so avoiding the elaborate structures out in 40' of water which consist of raised platforms with thatch roofed sheds on them. Not really sure of their exact purpose but they sure make navigation difficult. There wasn't anyone on them and there must have been at least 100 of them for 5 miles north of the anchorage. We weren't sorry to leave Kentar because it was an extremely rolly anchorage with a big NE swell rolling in but we moved behind another smaller island yesterday and managed to escape the worst of it.
Our intention today was to travel north 35 miles to Pulau Mesanak but when we got there the anchorage on the north of the island was untenable due to the roll so we and another yacht - "Tropicali" - moved around to the west side and we've managed to plonk ourselves on the edge of a shoal to get shallow water to ease things for our windlass. Only 24' here right now. And calm thank goodness. Not so bad today, but for the last 2 days we've been surrounded by nasty thunderstorms which generate unpredictable strong winds and rain, not to mention thunder and lightning. This latter is very dangerous in this part of the world as on a yacht you are the only tall structure for miles around. Not a comfortable feeling and the lightning is of the forked variety.
We will get some sleep before leaving at midnight to go straight through to Nongsa Point Marina tomorrrow (some 70 odd miles) where we will clear out. It's Full Moon tonight so that will help in avoiding pesky local boats with no lights! We have decided to short circuit the whole drawn out business because we are sick of either indifferent or downright uncomfortable anchorages and Jean is of course anxious to get back home to see Peapod (Carter). She now has the nickname of Granny in the fleet so whenever someone speaks to us on the radio these days they always ask for Granny! Also she became aware about a week and a half ago that a very close and dear friend - cousin Margaret Hastie - and with whom she had spent many happy childhood times riding horses on their farm at Mangawhai Heads and spending school holidays together was very ill and not expected to live. Unfortunately, 2 days ago this unhappy event came to pass when she died. So, Jean feels very cut off from all these momentous family happenings and really wants to get home and Jim expects to become a Grandad for the 4th. time in a few days. Although realistically by the time we get the boat to Pangkor in Malaysia and clean her up prior to leaving her for about 2 months it will be another 4 weeks at the earliest before we can leave for Godszone. This cruising life is not all beer and skittles at times but at least the trusty old Ford just keeps going which is very necessary because there is usually next to no wind. 900 rpm giving us 5.5 - 6 knots.
The next blog hopefully will be from Nongsa Point so keep watching this space.
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III

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Tuesday 15 October 2013

Teluk Klabat, Tanjung Penyusu, Pulau Bangka Lat. 1 degree 32.0' S Long. 105 degrees 42.0' E

Hi all,
Well, here we are again. We left Tanjung Kelayang on Belitung yesterday morning intending to stop for a night at Pulau Gelasa which is an island nearer to the Bangka coast. However, as we approached in the early afternoon there was a strong active thunderstorm to the west of us and it was causing a strong wind from the NW which was blowing straight into the anchorage with corresponding big seas. We contacted "Santana" as they had left Belitung before us and their description of the anchorage was "diabolical"!! So we employed our old standby and hove to but after a couple of hours the wind dropped from 20 knots + to almost nothing so it was no longer possible to stay hove to. So we decided to carry on albeit in a big sloppy sea generated by the thunderstorm to the north. We motorsailed (mostly motored!) into the evening when the sea started to moderate. After that things settled down and the night was relatively benign. But the poor old Ford just kept on trundling along at 1000 rpm or less. We will owe that lump of ironmongery a big debt when we arrive in Malaysia. Thankfully there were no fishing boats but a few larger ships mostly represented on AIS so the night was reasonably stress free except that our "Smart Charger" decided to give up the ghost. This was potentially serious as we depend so much on engine generated power for our needs. However, the Skipper in his eternal wisdom managed to deduce that the problem was a wire that had come loose and once we had some daylight this morning fixed the problem.
Soon after that Jean decided to cook a roast chicken meal and we had some Australian chicken thighs with mashed potato and peas (both dehydrated!). But very tasty after a long night and very welcome.
We then carried on to this anchorage. As we are leaving early on the morrow we are not going ashore but there appears to be a resort of sorts - fairly decrepit and not obviously open. But a beautiful setting and it inspired Jim to say if he had been 30 years younger it could have been a project. But Takapuna Motor Lodge was enough at his advanced years some 13 years ago!!
On the way in we saw several out of commission ferries moored off the coast and they appeared to be carrying on some sort of industrial activity on board because there was a great deal of polluted discharge straight into the sea, some of which we were obliged to steam through. God knows what it was but there are times when one can be quite pleased to have the RMA in NZ!!
We are now anchored and for once the boat is still. We have finished dinner at only 1804 and the next chore is the dishes followed by bed ready for the off in the morning. Next stop Pulau Lingga ( 95 miles) and then only 230 miles to Nongsa Point where we will clear out of Indonesia.
More from us later...........
Lotsaluv
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Bangka
Indonesia
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Thursday 10 October 2013

Tanjung Kelayang one day on

A day of contrasts. We went ashore early with our empty fuel jerrycans and Rusty organised Mme. Rosa to take us to town to sort the internet problems and to get fuel. Rosa was delightful and turns out to be the widow of an Italian (Antonio Calvedon) who died 9 months ago. Rosa still gets tears in her eyes when she talks of him. They apparently met in Jakarta 28 years ago when she was working in reception at an international hotel. On the way back she took us to her very attractive house with wide verandahs and we had a cup of coffee there. She also showed us where half her husband's ashes were buried in her garden - the other half having been sent back to Italy.
On the way into town we stopped at a Pertamina service station and left our jerrycans there along with some 20 litre cans belonging to Rusty. We were to collect them on the way back. We went to Telkomsel who assured us the internet problem was fixed but when we arrived back on the boat we found that it wasn't so it will be back there tomorrow.
We went to a fruit and vege market which was only average but managed to replenish our stocks. Then back to the service station where it transpired that we could only fill our 60 litres of containers but if we come back tomorrow we can fill the remainder (120 litres). That should be enough to get us to Johore. There are politics and silly beggars going on here and that is the reason for the delay. The diesel price today was close to the local price but when the rally arrives in force after tomorrow the price will double and this is another reason for anyone sailing through Indonesia in future to eschew Sail Indonesia totally because not only are they dangerous to normal yacht navigation but they escalate local prices where ever they go. In Kupang the price was 14000 Rph per litre and when the rally left that dropped to 10000. Here so far it's about half that but it will escalate dramatically in the next few days. Just commercial and political nonsense.
Anyway we have found that the internet still is not working so that means another trip to town tomorrow with Rosa. Hopefully we can get the remainder of the fuel then as well at a reasonable and not extortionate price and get the internet sorted.
Early tomorrow Jim will go ashore to get the 60 litres already purchased because this afternoon it was too rough with an onshore wind to bring it out to the boat. This is all far too intricate by far and just shows how difficult this sailing life can become at times.
We'll keep you posted........
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Tanjung Kelayang
Pulau Belitung
Indonesia
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Monday 7 October 2013

Across the Java Sea to Pulau Belitung Lat. 2 degrees 51.4' S Long. 108 degrees 18.0' E

Some people may see this as a very negative series of comments about Sail Indonesia but we believe they are well justified.
Anyway, to start at the beginning. We left Pulau Bawean on Thursday 3rd. after a very pleasant stay in a smooth anchorage - needless to say not an official Sail Indonesia stop! We were heading for Karimunjava but after only about 20 miles we made an ad hoc decision to put more miles under our belt and altered course for E. Belitung (some 310 miles on). This meant another night at sea but worth it to get further north and nearer to Malaysia which has always been our main focus. The nights were somewhat stressful as the sea was littered with squid boats - however, all easy to see because of their strong lights to attract the squid. But we always wondered whether there were any more unlit boats although we were by this time some 150 miles off the coast and it wasn't so likely to encounter small boats at that range. But one could never be sure. The wind was generally light and flukey and while we sailed part of the time we motorsailed mostly because of the need to maintain a schedule; we have to be out of Indonesia by Oct. 29th. at the latest - both us in terms of our visas and the boat in terms of its Cruising Permit.
So the days and nights were spent like that. Sometimes when conditions looked promising we would pole out the genoa or set the UPS but usually it was a flash in the pan and we would have to undo all our efforts again. Very frustrating. Still, the trusty old Ford just kept trundling along, usually below 1,000 rpm giving us between 5 and 6 knots. On the last night at sea we had another very scary moment. Jim was on watch and Jean was getting some much needed kip. He saw a boat showing its green navigation light on our starboard side and reasonably assumed that it would run past us. WRONG!! Some time later - and it was a dark moonless night - he looked again and through the binoculars saw what appeared to be a bow wave. SHIT - it was heading more or less straight for us. So, an ad hoc decision based on inadequate or non-existent data saw us alter course to starboard to come across their bows. There was no way of knowing how close they were, or their course or speed. Even Indonesian ships over 300 tons do not it seems have AIS transmitters. Anyway, we made it but it was close and as we came past them on their port side the cause of the near collision became apparent because their port (red) navigation light wasn't illuminated. If it had been it would have been apparent some time back that we had a potential collision situation. Much muttering and cursing then ensued and we lit up our strobe light again, even though it's illegal. Who cares around here as long as you are seen. But there appeared to be no-one in their wheelhouse or on deck so probably all asleep or playing Mahjong!!
At one stage we hove to again in order to lose some time so that our approach into here (Manggar) was in daylight. On Sunday morning we made our approach which was fraught because, although we had approach co-ordinates, the chartplotter was "out" as usual and there is no way of knowng by how much. At one point we passed over a 7 metre patch suddenly from around 20 metres with nothing around to take a sight on. We couldn't even see the island such was the haze so to all intents and purposes we were still in the wide open sea except for the diminishing depths. However, we continued creeping in until we saw a small Pulau which was charted and that gave us some confirmation of where we were. Then, after giving some charted bommies a wide berth, we altered course for the anchorage. What a disappointment after all the effort and stress of getting in here. Sail Indonesia lures us here with false promise of good anchorages and attractions ashore but the reality is just the same as in Kupang. The anchorage is on a lee shore (which we suspected) and is rolly to say the least. Today we made 2 abortive attempts to go ashore. The first caused us to turn back when we started shipping water into the dinghy and getting somewhat wet and the second this afternoon we aborted when we got close to the beach and saw the surf on the beach. We might have got ashore but getting back in the dark was not a happy prospect. The possibility of swamping the outboard was very real. So we haven't been ashore and will be leaving tomorrow for the northern anchorage 62 miles on which will at least be sheltered.
Sail Indonesia is only concerned with its own aggrandisement and currying favour with local communities. The welfare and safety of its yachting participants seems to us to come a very distant 3rd. and is to our mind reprehensible. No responsible skipper would deliberately anchor his boat on a lee shore, much less go ashore and leave it. And yet that's exactly what we had to do in Kupang, but here after experiencing the conditions in the dinghy we will not be doing that. Not only that, there is very little of practical nautical advice proffered by sail Indonesia which is the least one might expect from the organiser of an international yachting rally. We would have no hesitation in saying and recommending to anyone who might listen that anyone contemplating sailing through Indonesia does so on an independent basis and should avoid Sail Indonesia like the plague. We don't say this lightly because we have met some great people during our travels, but for the most part this has been totally remote from Sail Indonesia and anything they might have tried to organise. They attempt to beguile participants by saying that they can smooth the bureaucratic way but with a bit of elementary research it is quite possible to do all that independently and get to choose proper and safe anchorages. This will not be our last word on the subject - that's for sure.
A standout exception to the above was the time we spent at Medana Bay on Pulau Lombok. The help that was extended to us there was outstanding and included assistance in procuring a new dinghy. We will not forget Peter and his wife Ace and all their staff who were so good to us. A very happy interlude and we hope to meet them all again some day. We would recommend for any independent sailors to make Medana Bay on Lombok an essential stopover during any passage through Indonesia.
On a far more happier note Jean received some wonderful news during our last night at sea. Carter James Lanaway (7 lbs. 8 ozs.) had been born the previous Thursday night (the 3rd.) and she is a Grandma for the first time at 66!! It's taken Perry a while but it seems he has got the hang of it with an amazing lady (Tracie) at last! So now it is even more urgent to get to Pangkor in Malaysia so that Jean can get home to make the acquaintance of young Carter (Peapod!). We have had photos sent already and the poor little chap looks quite put out at having to enter this world. He is a bonny wee chap though and it will be great to meet him in person.
Love from us.............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Manggar
E. Belitung
Indonesia

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Tuesday 1 October 2013

Fwd: foto kunjungan ke TK

These are some photos of Jean when she visited a kindergarten at Medana Bay on Lombok. We donated some coloured pencils, colouring pads and swimming goggles and 3 of the children won goggles for having the best artwork. One in particular was evidently very gifted in that direction. These photos were kindly sent to us by Wulan at Medana Bay.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: admin wisatasamudera <admin@wisatasamudera.com>
Date: 27 September 2013 07:18
Subject: Fwd: foto kunjungan ke TK
To: tiare.taporo@gmail.com
Cc: Peter Cranfield <Peter.Cranfield@csaglobal.com>, ACE ROBIN <acerobin@gmail.com>, Ratih Widihandayani <ratih.widihandayani@yahoo.com>, Dini - Global Export Services <dini@globalexport.asia>


Dear Mrs Jean and Mr Jim,

Merci and Je vais apprendre plusieurs langues France.

Have a nice trip.

Regards,
WULAN

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: admin wisatasamudera <admin@wisatasamudera.com>
Date: 26 September 2013 16:53
Subject: Fwd: foto kunjungan ke TK
To: zmq5985@sailmail.com
Cc: Peter Cranfield <Peter.Cranfield@csaglobal.com>, ACE ROBIN <acerobin@gmail.com>, Dini - Global Export Services <dini@globalexport.asia>, Ratih Widihandayani <ratih.widihandayani@yahoo.com>


Dear Mrs Jean and Mr Jim,

Thank you for your coming in our Marina.
I am glad to see nice people both of you.
Hopefully we can meet again here.

Here is I send you picture when you visited kinder garden in the village.

Have a nice trip and see you.
Au revoir and merci for Mr Jim.

Warm Regards,
WULAN


--
PT WISATA ALAM SAMUDERA
Jalan Raya Meninting 27
Montong – SENGGIGI  83355
LOMBOK, INDONESIA
Telp +62 370 661 0037
Fax + 62 370 633 564
admin@wisatasamudera.com
admin@medanabaymarina.com



--
PT WISATA ALAM SAMUDERA
Jalan Raya Meninting 27
Montong – SENGGIGI  83355
LOMBOK, INDONESIA
Telp +62 370 661 0037
Fax + 62 370 633 564
admin@wisatasamudera.com
admin@medanabaymarina.com

Monday 30 September 2013

Across the Java Sea to Pulau Bawean Lat. 5 degrees 43.8' S Long. 112 degrees 40.2' E

Hi to all,
Well, we arrived at Bawean at 1100 this morning Central Indonesia Time (5 hours behind NZ). We left Pulau Ra-as yesterday morning and crept out of the tricky entrance following the electronic track we had left from the approach the day before. So, not as difficult as the arrival. Still, with all these things it's just a matter of a patient, slow approach coupled with the trusty Mark I eyeball! At least the water is reasonably clear so it is possible to see the shallow water and reefs.
While anchored at Ra-as we were hassled by local fishermen wanting to sell us some fish which were well dead and not even gutted. In these temperatures that was most unappealing! They wouldn't leave us alone until we gave them something so we found some children's and adult's clothing which seemed to satisfy them. They had wanted 100,000 Rph (NZD10.63) for each of these scungy fish. Jean did an act and said that fish made her sick, whereas in fact she loves fish. However, these could well have made us both sick - not to mention the possibility of Ciguatera poisoning. We are still trying to catch our own fish by trolling a lure but so far to no avail. There is a shortage of fish here now due to overfishing. There is also no doubt that Indonesians are not good at conservation. Apparently until recently they used dynamite to catch fish. The other thing that is also a real hazard are these fish aggregation devices we have mentioned before. They are devishly hard to see particularly in failing light. They must work though because the seas around here are littered with them.
We started off sailing in reasonable wind (309 true) but true to recent weather patterns which we do not pretend to understand the wind died to about 5 knots which is far too light for this old girl. So, motoring again. As we passed the NE tip of Pulau Madura it was startling to see the water depth suddenly down to 15-20 metres after all the eastern parts of Indonesia with 1000's of metres. At least anchoring won't be so difficult from here on. Most of the Java Sea is shallow with about 50-70 metres. Then, we saw what appeared to be islands on the northern horizon, but there was nothing on the chart! Then, as we got closer we realised that they were 3 massive barge loads of coal being pulled by powerful tugs. Each barge had 4 heaped up piles of coal and they were doing just over 4 knots. Only one was transmitting on AIS! Most of Indonesia's electric power is coal generated and all the coal comes from Kalimantan (Borneo). We surmised that this coal was headed to Surabaya which is a major port on the eastern end of Pulau Java. It was touch and go whether we could get past the westernmost tug so we increased the revs and scraped past. Otherwise we would have had to go around the back of the barge which would have been quite a detour as the tows were very long (at least 500 metres).
As we headed into evening darkness the wind freshened somewhat so we were able to sail but later it died again so for about 3 hours we just plodded on under sail and both got some sleep without the engine noise. However, the night was fraught with squid boats everywhere but fortunately well lit to attract the squid. We had the first of 2 close calls though when just after dark we were discussing unlit boats when there was a burst of light from just ahead. A quick disengagement of the autopilot and a 90 degree turn to port revealed a small otherwise unlit fishing boat with about 4 people on board all looking apprehensive as we bore down on them. Then, unbelievably once we were past and back on course feeling a bit shaken they turned their lights out again! We then turned on the radar but found it of dubious value in picking up small wooden boats - and it uses a lot of power when transmitting.
The rest of the night was spent dodging heaps of squid boats. Just as we thought we must have got through them more would start appearing above the horizon. We turned on our flashing strobe light for the rest of the night thinking that if there were any more unlit boats at least they would see us and maybe advertise their presence again! Then we had our second close call which was really scary. We saw a squid boat off to our starboard side and beyond that more lights which gradually resolved themselves into a ship. We could see its red navigation light which meant it was heading across our course. It did not appear on the AIS so we had no details of its position course and speed, other than what we could deduce from seeing it. We decided to take prudent action and turned to starboard so as to run down their port side port to port which is the correct thing to do. However, at the same time they must have seen us and turned to port not realising that we had already turned. Obviously they had intended to pass by our stern but had not communicated this to us in spite of us calling them on the VHF. Most of these coastal crews speak no English so they hardly ever reply. There we were seeing their red and green lights which meant that they were heading straight for us not at all far away. So, another snap decision was made and we turned back to port onto our original course and increased revs to clear them. It was all we could do and in the absence of any firm information all our responses were made on the basis of educated supposition. Fortunately we made the right decision and they passed us close astern without reducing speed. It felt as though we could reach out and touch them. Sailing Indonesian waters at night is definitely not for the faint hearted but, faint heart or otherwise, when you're there you have to make the best of it.
The rest of the night was relatively stress free and then soon after dawn we could start to see the faint outline of Bawean in the haze. We kept well out to the east of the island as there are many reefs (Kars) there and so as to have peace of mind, we probably travelled an extra 10 miles or so but well worth it. The approach into the anchorage was straightforward and we anchored alongside "Libertad", "Adagio", "Zoa", "Delphian", "Nahanni" and a couple of others. Bawean is a mountainous island and very attractive from what we have seen so far. We will go ashore tomorrow and hope that the natives are friendly!! Otherwise it's loading the poop cannons with grape and an armed party ashore!! Capt. Cook would be proud.
More later - keep watching this space.
Lotsaluv from us
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Bawean
Indonesia

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