Across the Java Sea to Pulau Belitung Lat. 2 degrees 51.4' S Long. 108 degrees 18.0' E

Some people may see this as a very negative series of comments about Sail Indonesia but we believe they are well justified.
Anyway, to start at the beginning. We left Pulau Bawean on Thursday 3rd. after a very pleasant stay in a smooth anchorage - needless to say not an official Sail Indonesia stop! We were heading for Karimunjava but after only about 20 miles we made an ad hoc decision to put more miles under our belt and altered course for E. Belitung (some 310 miles on). This meant another night at sea but worth it to get further north and nearer to Malaysia which has always been our main focus. The nights were somewhat stressful as the sea was littered with squid boats - however, all easy to see because of their strong lights to attract the squid. But we always wondered whether there were any more unlit boats although we were by this time some 150 miles off the coast and it wasn't so likely to encounter small boats at that range. But one could never be sure. The wind was generally light and flukey and while we sailed part of the time we motorsailed mostly because of the need to maintain a schedule; we have to be out of Indonesia by Oct. 29th. at the latest - both us in terms of our visas and the boat in terms of its Cruising Permit.
So the days and nights were spent like that. Sometimes when conditions looked promising we would pole out the genoa or set the UPS but usually it was a flash in the pan and we would have to undo all our efforts again. Very frustrating. Still, the trusty old Ford just kept trundling along, usually below 1,000 rpm giving us between 5 and 6 knots. On the last night at sea we had another very scary moment. Jim was on watch and Jean was getting some much needed kip. He saw a boat showing its green navigation light on our starboard side and reasonably assumed that it would run past us. WRONG!! Some time later - and it was a dark moonless night - he looked again and through the binoculars saw what appeared to be a bow wave. SHIT - it was heading more or less straight for us. So, an ad hoc decision based on inadequate or non-existent data saw us alter course to starboard to come across their bows. There was no way of knowing how close they were, or their course or speed. Even Indonesian ships over 300 tons do not it seems have AIS transmitters. Anyway, we made it but it was close and as we came past them on their port side the cause of the near collision became apparent because their port (red) navigation light wasn't illuminated. If it had been it would have been apparent some time back that we had a potential collision situation. Much muttering and cursing then ensued and we lit up our strobe light again, even though it's illegal. Who cares around here as long as you are seen. But there appeared to be no-one in their wheelhouse or on deck so probably all asleep or playing Mahjong!!
At one stage we hove to again in order to lose some time so that our approach into here (Manggar) was in daylight. On Sunday morning we made our approach which was fraught because, although we had approach co-ordinates, the chartplotter was "out" as usual and there is no way of knowng by how much. At one point we passed over a 7 metre patch suddenly from around 20 metres with nothing around to take a sight on. We couldn't even see the island such was the haze so to all intents and purposes we were still in the wide open sea except for the diminishing depths. However, we continued creeping in until we saw a small Pulau which was charted and that gave us some confirmation of where we were. Then, after giving some charted bommies a wide berth, we altered course for the anchorage. What a disappointment after all the effort and stress of getting in here. Sail Indonesia lures us here with false promise of good anchorages and attractions ashore but the reality is just the same as in Kupang. The anchorage is on a lee shore (which we suspected) and is rolly to say the least. Today we made 2 abortive attempts to go ashore. The first caused us to turn back when we started shipping water into the dinghy and getting somewhat wet and the second this afternoon we aborted when we got close to the beach and saw the surf on the beach. We might have got ashore but getting back in the dark was not a happy prospect. The possibility of swamping the outboard was very real. So we haven't been ashore and will be leaving tomorrow for the northern anchorage 62 miles on which will at least be sheltered.
Sail Indonesia is only concerned with its own aggrandisement and currying favour with local communities. The welfare and safety of its yachting participants seems to us to come a very distant 3rd. and is to our mind reprehensible. No responsible skipper would deliberately anchor his boat on a lee shore, much less go ashore and leave it. And yet that's exactly what we had to do in Kupang, but here after experiencing the conditions in the dinghy we will not be doing that. Not only that, there is very little of practical nautical advice proffered by sail Indonesia which is the least one might expect from the organiser of an international yachting rally. We would have no hesitation in saying and recommending to anyone who might listen that anyone contemplating sailing through Indonesia does so on an independent basis and should avoid Sail Indonesia like the plague. We don't say this lightly because we have met some great people during our travels, but for the most part this has been totally remote from Sail Indonesia and anything they might have tried to organise. They attempt to beguile participants by saying that they can smooth the bureaucratic way but with a bit of elementary research it is quite possible to do all that independently and get to choose proper and safe anchorages. This will not be our last word on the subject - that's for sure.
A standout exception to the above was the time we spent at Medana Bay on Pulau Lombok. The help that was extended to us there was outstanding and included assistance in procuring a new dinghy. We will not forget Peter and his wife Ace and all their staff who were so good to us. A very happy interlude and we hope to meet them all again some day. We would recommend for any independent sailors to make Medana Bay on Lombok an essential stopover during any passage through Indonesia.
On a far more happier note Jean received some wonderful news during our last night at sea. Carter James Lanaway (7 lbs. 8 ozs.) had been born the previous Thursday night (the 3rd.) and she is a Grandma for the first time at 66!! It's taken Perry a while but it seems he has got the hang of it with an amazing lady (Tracie) at last! So now it is even more urgent to get to Pangkor in Malaysia so that Jean can get home to make the acquaintance of young Carter (Peapod!). We have had photos sent already and the poor little chap looks quite put out at having to enter this world. He is a bonny wee chap though and it will be great to meet him in person.
Love from us.............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Manggar
E. Belitung
Indonesia

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