Thursday 13 October 2011

Touho lat. 20 degrees 46.4' S long. 165 degrees 14.2' E

We arrived at Touho about 1400 today after a very pleasant sail south from Hienghene. It was a beat all the way but the wind didn't exceed 20 knots and so it was pleasant sailing in the flat water of the lagoon. We probably tacked 8 times and it was a bit frustrating to be making good progress on a certain tack only to find a coral reef barring the way!! So it was a matter of tacking over and then a short time later tacking back to clear the aforementioned obstruction!
The approach into Touho is not without problems as it is a narrow channel between reefs to get to the anchorage but all well marked and with the aid of our trusty chartplotter we anchored just off the entrance to the marina. The marina isn't useable as most of it has sunk - whether that's a result of sabotage or not we don't know. But we went ashore there and walked to the nearest civilisation which wasn't far away. There's a well stocked shop and interestingly enough a shed where there is a carvel planked boat slightly bigger than Jim's father's boat "Jado" but strikingly similar and maybe slightly bigger. She has sustained damage on the starboard side and the engine has been taken out of her. Looking at the construction detail we wouldn't be surprised if she hadn't been built in NZ and shipped up here. She would be a great restoration project!! Kevin - take note!! Although we're sure that one wooden motor boat is more than enough to be involved with at a time.
David and Mary had caught another Spanish Mackerel and offered some to us so very gladly we went across in the dinghy and had some more delicious Sashimi and after a few glasses of wine returned to Tiare. We are very lazy - we didn't even have a line over!! Always good to leave the anchor light on so as to have something definite to aim for otherwise in the dark it's a bit hit and miss!!
We should also mention that while ashore we met a Kanak guy (about 40) who spoke excellent English and who filled us in on the local politics. It seems that there is some better relationship between the French and the Kanaks since 1984 but there is a long way to go. All they are asking for is equal opportunity for education etc and the chance to participate equally in society. Hopefully this societal development will progress otherwise the outlook is bleak. He surprised us by asking whether we had seen many Kanaks on the West coast and we had to say that we hadn't. He said that was because the early settlers had literally killed them off to obtain the best agricultural producing land and that would explain the agricultural emphasis of towns like Bourail and la Foa.
Not sure what the answer to all this is except to say that our ancestors were brutally driven off their ancestral homelands in the highlands of Scotland by the British - and here we now are. Should we continue to hold these past grievances or just get on with life? More the latter we think and this applies to the Kanaks of New Caledonia as much to the Maoris of NZ. We hope for all our sakes that this can be achieved in an atmosphere of societal justice.
Love from us - again
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
P.S. Wot's happening in Godzone???!!! Someone please let us know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! RWC ???????????????????

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