Saturday 31 August 2013

Across the Flores and Bali Seas to Medana Bay Pulau Lombok lat. 8 degrees 21.8' S Long. 116 degrees 07.8' E

We arrived at Medana Bay on Lombok last Sunday the 25th. We had left Pulau Padar just south of Pulau Komodo on the 22nd. with some intermediate anchorages in mind and plotted on the chart. We spent the first night on a mooring on the NE corner of Komodo along with "Pedoja". Then the next morning we said farewell to Don and Tanya who were going to Labuan Bajo on Pulau Flores and sailed westwards through a narrow passage just outside the bay. Fortunately the tide was with us as we went through but a little unnerving to see the rocky bottom clearly only 20' down! Couldn't have stopped if we'd wanted to!! Our intention then was to anchor that night at Pulau Banta 17 miles further on but when we attempted to go through Selat Sape to the anchorage on the southern side of Banta we struck fierce adverse tidal currents which were kicking up a nasty sea so turned around with difficulty and headed around the north side of Banta disappointed that we seemed unable to anchor that night. However, as we came past the island we saw that the water was calm on the west side so again tried to get to the anchorage. This time the current was with us but it was again so fierce we worried that we wouldn't be able to leave in the morning so again turned around resigned to sailing overnight. We had to then get past a tall supposedly still active volcano on the NE corner of Pulau Sumbawa called Sangean. Again without local knowledge we worried about currents in the selat between Sangean and Sumbawa so we added about 10 miles to our passage by going around the outside of Sangean. By then it was dark and there were fires burning ashore high up on the slopes of the volcano so obviously it is inhabited. Sumbawa is the next major island westwards from Komodo and Flores. There was another anchorage at Bima Town but because we were off there at 0100 we decided against approaching in the dark. Onwards once more. 68 miles further on we expected to anchor at Kanaga on the north coast of Sumbawa but when we got there it was a lee shore and appeared deep so shrugged our shoulders once more and carried on. The next hopeful anchorage was Pulau Medang where there is a shallowish patch off the SW corner. But we had a fight against the current in the selat between there and Sumbawa and, although we eventually did head towards the anchorage, we found at one stage less than 20' over the fringing reef which after several hundred feet of depth is somewhat bothersome! So, once again out to sea for one more overnight sail to Lombok. During that night we experienced a torrential rain storm but little wind and soon could see the shore lights on the NE coast of Lombok. We stayed at least 5 miles off the coast to avoid unlit fishing boats as we came around the north side of Lombok and then had the dawn coming up behind us and illuminating the high peaks (over 3,000 metres) of north Lombok. Considering that the sea depths reach around 1500 metres close in to the island, that is a net rise of nearly 5,000 metres from the sea floor in a distance of roughly 10-15 miles. Very impressive. We had the current in the Selat Lombok between here and Pulau Bali with us as we came down the NW coast so slowed right down so as to arrive off the entrance to Medana Bay in daylight. We arrived at the co-ordinates we had been given but could not see anything of leading marks onshore due to early morning light, smoke from cooking fires and a low mist. So rang poor Peter Cranfield (the marketing manager) who was then in Jakarta having a weekend off. We didn't realise that Jakarta time is 1 hour behind here so we were ringing him at 0600 on a Sunday morning!! He was surprisingly good humoured in the circumstances. We finally picked up the leading marks and gingerly came in but all was well and we picked up a mooring very close to a small marina which wasn't tenable for us due to a surge running through.
The whole passage was just over 270 miles and sad to say we motored for probably 60% of the time due to either adverse or no wind.
Our dinghy is working sufficiently to allow us to paddle ashore (only about 50 metres) before it starts to deflate again. We then pump it up for the return trip! We aren't game to risk the outboard as unlike us it can't swim - hence the paddling. But thanks to Peter we are expecting our new 2.0 metre Zodiac from Jakarta in 2-3 days. It will be sad to farewell our existing dinghy as it has served us well for the last 4 years in NZ, New Caledonia and Australia - only to be trashed in Kupang.
We decided to extend our Indonesian visas here rather than when the rally does it at Lovina on Bali. If that anchorage wasn't good we at least are now totally independent. However, anything to do with Indonesian bureaucracy is something of a nightmare and once again Peter and his staff - Ms Wulan and Ms. Ratih were indispensible. Wulan took our passports and delivered them to Immigration and then later we travelled by taxi (1 hour and 170,000 Rph - NZD20) to Mataram (pop. 500,000) which is the capital of Lombok. Immigration is in an imposing 2 story building but where you expect the front door appeared to be permanently shut. So, we went around the side where there were hundreds of locals waiting to be interviewed for a passport so that they can go and work in Malaysia and elsewhere. We pushed through the crowd and went upstairs where you sit and wait until they call you. Ms. Ratih duly arrived and harangued the officials until eventually we were called one by one to be fingerprinted and have our ugly mugshots taken. Absolutely ludicrous for 1 month's extension when the main application in Australia didn't require any of that. Anyway, that's Indonesia and it's no good getting all riled up. It was an education to watch the endless procession of people and the way the bureaucracy worked- or rather didn't.
Once clear of there we went on a fruitless search for a handheld VHF and then made our way to our hotel for the night - the Viktor 2. Very new and spotless but because it was a budget hotel it had no toilet paper or towels. However, we badgered them until we got some of the necessary!!
We walked up the road dodging horsecarts, motorbikes, people and traffic generally and stayed reasonably sane until we arrived at the Mataram Mall which is Mataram's shopping mecca. However, we weren't so impressed although Jean bought a Batik dress and Jim a couple of shirts. There were endless stalls along the street selling everything from fruit to incense sticks. Bought some Sandalwood sticks too as well as some fruit. Found a Chinese restaurant called Aroma and had quite a good nourishing meal and then early to bed. Only one pillow each which annoyed Jim! Breakfast the next morning was a cup of tea, two cold hard boiled eggs and some toast in a sandwich with melted chocolate inside. All included in the tariff of 200,000 Rph. Another walk around the town where we bought some provisions and cans of beer Bintang and then back in a taxi for the ride back to Medana. Lovely scenic road along the coast with extensive sea views. Halfway between here and Mataram is the seaside town of Sengiggi which is an Indonesian version of Paihia in the BOI, NZ. Bigger and of course much warmer and touristy - hence prices are much higher there. But a few days earlier we had had a very pleasant lunch at Sendok restaurant.
Medana is great. Anchorage can be a bit rolly at times but we've had worse. Ashore there is a small marina with berths arranged parallel to the beach but completely exposed to any swell coming in. There is the Sail Fish Cafe where everything happens and a large Bintang is 35,000 Rph. Meals which are good are at a similar price. The people are friendly and have been very helpful to us. On Friday we went with a German real estate developer (Martin) and a Brit expat real estate agent (Ian) to a property Martin owns just below a waterfall at about 300 metres altitude. He wants to sell but we just went along for the ride - definitely not interested in developing rural properties in Indonesia! We've both been there and done that in NZ.
We are planning some more shore excursions to a local market and also high up in the hills on the north side of Lombok - probably by bemo, the local small buses. Also the Gili Islands just 7 miles south of here will be visited on the boat in due course. The largest, Gili Trewangan is a party island with lots of girls (!) so we probably won't be going there!
Well, that's it for now - more fascinating news from us as it unfolds in due course.
Cheers and lotsaluv,
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Medana Bay
Lombok.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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