Friday 5 December 2014

Yacht Haven Koh Phuket Lat. 8 degrees 10.2' N Long. 98 degrees 20.4' E

Yesterday it was the Thai King's Birthday (Dec. 5th.) and probably the most revered day in the Thai calendar.
We arrived here at Yacht Haven on the 1st. after a pleasant passage from Krabi. Very sad to leave all our friends at Popeye and Garn at the Galley restaurant. We managed to finish the bottle of Chivas Regal 12 yr old which we had given to Capt. Des Kearns to mark his 70th. birthday some months previously - sitting in Des's office looking out over the marina where "Tiare Taporo III" was moored. We hasten to assure you dear readers that we didn't drink the whole bottle then - it had taken some direct hits on previous occasions!
It was a total of 52 miles via the southern end of Koh Yao Yai which is a large island smack in the way! We anchored first at Koh Dam Khwan (only 10 miles from Krabi Boat Lagoon) - a very pretty anchorage with the usual precipitous and dramatic scenery typical of this part of the world. At around 2000 there was a fairly violent electrical storm, again typical of this area at this time of the year. We are always concerned that with our mast sticking straight up into the air, we are vulnerable to these nasty bolts of electricity, which could fry all our electrics with a direct hit. We didn't receive a direct hit but Jean was holding onto the stainless steel frame which supports our companionway dodger and was zapped as one bolt came uncomfortably close. Her arm remained sore for about 24 hours after that. Maybe it was the titanium in her hips that attracted the energy - hope it hasn't melted them!! The boat appeared to be OK with all our instruments still functioning but with lightning one always worries about "latent effect" - we'll just have to wait and see.
The next day dawned fine and clear and we headed out on a SW course towards the southern tip of Koh Yao Yai. Soon after raising the anchor, we passed through the small group of Koh Yawasam with very dramatic formations. There will be some photos posted here just after this blog. The tide was low and you could see part of the submarine formation which appeared riddled with small holes and caves - like a Swiss cheese. They must have been standing there for quite a long time, but somehow there was an uncomfortable feeling if getting too close! We rounded Yao Yai and continued north along its western side until we spied a resort on a good swimming beach which all looked good from the point of view of essential sustenance! We anchored off the beach and over the next 3 days we cleaned the hull of the yacht from the dinghy and went ashore for swimming and eating - and drinking! We know that's what you all think - that this cruising life is a continuous round of hedonism, but of course that isn't the case - the difficulty is in convincing you lot. Hardly worth the effort really!! The resort's restaurant was quite inexpensive and right on the beach so was an idyllic setting. About 100 metres away from the beach we found a coffee bar which had excellent coffee where Jean could get her fixes.
Then on the morning of Dec. 1st. we weighed anchor again and headed in a NW direction the last 20 miles to Yacht Haven Marina. We had no wind to speak of the whole trip so it's been a case of using the iron sail. Yacht Haven is situated right on the northern end of Phuket in the channel that separates Phuket from the mainland to the north so is very sheltered, although being in the channel, it does receive a cool breeze which is welcome in the tropical heat. Phuket International Airport is very close - only 20 minutes away by car. Here it is very quiet away from the madding crowds who flock to the western side beaches and try to kill each other on jetskis. There aren't any safety regulations regarding the use of these things, or if there are they aren't enforced. A tourist was killed the other day on a jetski and 3 more in a speedboat which hit a fishing boat at right angles in good visibility in daylight! Then there are the lack of lights at night as we've mentioned before and on top of all that the Thai authorities are now insisting on all foreign flagged yachts being fitted with AIS transponders. The real reason for this is to keep track of foreign boats - not for any safety considerations. We have an AIS receiver but not a transmitter and we're damned if we are going to be forced to fit one - at a rough cost of NZD1500! Some years ago an American yacht took the NZ Govt. to court concerning jurisdiction over foreign flagged vessels and their equipment- and won. Maybe it's getting time to do the same thing here.
On our approach to Yacht Haven it's necessary to stay in the channel and when approaching any marina or anchorage for the first time there's an element of anxiety as to the correct way to go. We were talking to YH on the radio and they said we should "head for the green buoy" and there await a dinghy which would guide us in to our berth. We did this and promptly went aground - twice!! We weren't best pleased thinking of our new antifouling which has no doubt been compromised although hopefully just on the lead keel and the sacrificial wormshoe (which is Amazonian Green Heart timber - hard as iron and impervious to the dreaded Teredo Worm). Then on the way in we had been told on the radio that we would be tying up port side to and had all the fenders and mooring lines deployed accordingly. However, the guy in the dinghy then said it was starboard side which necessitated changing everything and that's no small job. Then he changed his mind and said it was port side after all. Just as well the crutches were well stowed otherwise they would definitely have been flying. The guy doesn't know how lucky he was!!
However, after that poor start we find that the marina is very pleasant with a choice of 4 restaurants ashore and a gym and pool which actually belong to a condominium complex just up the hill from the marina.
Fingers crossed, but we think our refrigeration problems have been finally solved, although it didn't help that the technician who came to work on the system virtually spoke no English. We also had David Samuelson, an expert rigger based at Boat Lagoon, on board to give our rig the once over. Fortunately he didn't find any issues and was so impressed with the mast fittings that Noel had designed and fitted in Whangarei, that he took photos of them!! David it turns out had had dinner on board the "Taporo" - a steel motor ship that we sold in 1971 when the Tahiti business was sold - when he passed through the Marquesas Islands on his yacht in 1974. We've noticed that the deck mounted foot operated switch for our windlass has cracked on its surface so will have to try and source another. The new lifeline starboard side hasn't been swaged properly so we're taking that down to Boat Lagoon on Monday for that to be done. And we need a new radiator cap for our heat exchanger as the old original one is leaking - so no rest for the wicked. There is always something on a boat! And dental maintenance for us as well - Jean needs repairs to a bridge (or a new one) and Jim is having a long overdue checkup and clean. Far far cheaper than NZ where you need to take out a 2nd. mortgage to pay the extortionate fees.
We are hiring a car on Monday for the aforementioned jobs as well as some provisioning. The Phuket traffic is legendary so it will be exciting as we make our way around.
Still not entirely sure of our immediate movements but we're likely to be here for Christmas and leaving just after for Langkawi. The boat temporary import permit and our personal visas expire around mid January so that's the imperative. Then back to Krabi in March before Jean flies out to the States and Jim to NZ. As always we'll let you know.
Cheers and love from us......
Jim and Jean
P.S. Don't forget to look for our recent pics which will be posted to the website in the next couple of days - very inexpertly as usual!!
To close - another Irish joke - Murphy wasn't feeling well so he decided to go to the doctor. After examining him the doctor said that he couldn't find anything wrong and so he'd have to "put it down to the drink". Murphy said "that's all right, doctor. I'll come back another time when you're sober!".

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