Wednesday 5 June 2013

Seisia Lat. 10 degrees 50.9' S Long. 142 degrees 21.8' E

We arrived into the anchorage off Seisia village at 0930 yesterday morning (the 4th.) after leaving the Cape York anchorage at dawn to catch the west setting flood tide. Up here you go with the flow, or you don't go!!
We motorsailed in generally lighter winds with the old Ford just ticking over at 750 rpm making water and power. We were being pushed along at over 7 knots with the current and watching the chartplotter and depth sounder as there are extensive shoals along the coast. We came around the north side of Possession Island at over 9 knots over the ground with tidal whirlpools all around. Couldn't stop if we'd wanted to.
Possession Island was named by the Great Navigator (Lieutenant James Cook R.N.) and it was where he took possession "of the east coast of New South Wales from 38 degrees latitude to this place" in the name of His Majesty King George III in 1770. There is a monument to commemorate the event and we saw it as we scooted past! When this formality was completed Cook and H.M. Bark Endeavour left Australian waters through the Endeavour Straits for Batavia where full repairs to the ship were carried out after their encounter with Endeavour Reef some months earlier. They had been very lucky to survive that encounter on what is now Queensland's east coast. They managed to float free of the reef by jettisoning all their canon to lighten the ship and, pumping furiously to keep the water at bay the made it into the Endeavour River where present day Cooktown is. There they spent 48 days repairing the damage with the ship careened on a sandbank. There were a number of historical firsts. It was the first time that Englishmen had spent more than a few days ashore and it was where the Kangaroo was sighted for the first time as well as contact being made with the local Aborigines who evidently appreciated the obviously peaceful intentions of the visitors. Cook's exploits were amazing when you consider that he had only his own resources for navigation, extremely accurate charting, scientific and botanic observations, victualling the ship and carrying enough materials to effect any necessary repairs. His was an awe inspiring achievement and very poignant for us who have sailed these same waters. We have found it difficult enough and we have the benefit of all the modern technology available with GPS and chartplotter and well detailed paper charts.
The entrance to Seisia was relatively straightforward once we picked up the leading beacons and buoys leading into the anchorage. However, the last half mile or so was across the tidal current so we had to constantly watch our position and course to stay clear of the shallow water on each side. We went past the wharf and then rounded up into the current to drop anchor near "Settlement", "Backchat", "Forty-two" and "Pedoga". "2XS" came in today from Horn Is. Seisia has a wharf and an attractive beach and is serviced weekly by the Seaswift barge from Cairns. The beach is definitely NOT for swimming though as crocodiles are prolific - although we are yet to see one. We do not tarry on the water's edge when getting in or out of the dinghy. There is a strong current running parallel with the beach - west on the flood and east on the ebb. Ashore there is a camp ground which is very popular with 4WD trekkers who make the journey north from Cairns. Jean met 2 women who drive all the way up here from Geelong every year! The camp ground has a very acceptable cafe and also clothes washing facilities, so today we lugged our considerable quantity of washing ashore and after it was washed Jean hung it out on their clothes line. Had to buy some clothes pegs as we'd left ours on the boat. There is a small but well stocked supermarket and a service station where we have been buying 40 litres of very expensive diesel each time we have been ashore. It's quite a business carrying 4 x 10 litres of fuel plus the washed washing back to the yacht in our little 2.2 metre rubber dinghy through the tidal currents and very strong winds. And all the while being mindful of the large scaly things with teeth.
The local service station owner is quite a character and has been very kindly giving us a lift down to the beach with our fuel. He also took Jim into Bamaga on a fruitless search for another watermaker booster pump so we have seen a bit of the countryside. We'll just have to hope that the present one keeps going until Darwin. Bamaga is bigger than Seisia and only about 15 minutes drive away. It has more shops and a local hospital. But all characterised by the all pervading red soil and dust - which is actually bauxite from which aluminium is smelted. The bauxite that is shipped to Tiwai Point at Bluff comes from this area. The 2 bauxite shipping ports are Weipa, about 160 miles south of here on the eastern side of the Gulf of Carpentaria and Gove on the other side.
There is a normal strong wind warning (25-30 knots) in force at the moment so we will stay here until things die down - if they ever do. Then the strategy will be to sail in the lee of the peninsula down almost as far as Weipa before heading across the 300 miles to the other side. The accepted wisdom is that the further south you go the easier will be the passage, so we hope that's correct. Hopefully we might get away about the 9th when we might expect another weather window - but they are short lived around here. Even the locals say the constant wind is unusual so here's hoping that normality returns soon. At the moment it's 2230 and the wind continues at up to 20 knots in the anchorage.
More fascinating news in a day or two.
Cheers and lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean xoxoxo

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