Gove and on to Elizabeth Bay Lat. 11 degrees 54.4' S Long. 136 degrees 34.0' E

We finished up having quite a social time at Gove which with its sattelite supply town of Nhulunbuy, exists solely for the Rio Tinto bauxite mine and alumina refinery. Rio had threatened to close the mine due to the downturn in world aluminium prices but their continued presence is now assured by the Northern territory Government agreeing to build a gas supply line from Darwin at a cost upwards of $A800 million. There will be more demands forthcoming to the NZ govt. too in order to keep their Tiwai Point smelter running.
Anyway, we met a very charming Philippina woman called Rose who turned out to be married to a Kiwi, Kevin. They own a coastal property in the Philippines and we have been invited to visit when we eventually get there. We were talking to them at the Gove Boat Club and there was another NZ'er called Clarry who was also married to a Philippina. He had been married to Lynda who was a childhood friend of Jean's younger sister and their fathers had been close friends. Such an incredibly small world. Lynda (nee McNeill) originally from Tomarata just out of Wellsford, works for the local Shire Council and her husband travels around Aboriginal communities teaching them life skills. They apparently have a totally different way of thinking to Europeans so any form of teaching is challenging. We saw several very dark Aborigines in Nhulunbuy and they have a genetic characteristic of very skinny legs. Apparently that is unique to this part of Australia.
Kevin took us into town one morning and showed us the lookout tower on top of a low hill where you get a good idea of the surroundings - also the channel where we had come in in the dark. There is an excellent cafe run by a family of Philippinas and we had some very good food there. Apart from that there is a Woolworths supermarket, a Westpac bank, and a BP service station as well as many government offices. Lynda took us to town on our last afternoon to get some diesel (60 litres) from the local BP servo. After the fuel we bought in Seisia we are now full again with some on deck as well to get us to Darwin.
Yesterday (19/06) we sailed north from Gove to Elizabeth Bay which is still on the mainland but a good jumping off point for the Wessels. We had the usual 20 knot SE which built to 25. Very big confused seas off Cape Wilberforce where there is a strong tide which runs between there and the Bromby Islets to the NE. Fortunately we had the tide with us as we came between the two and it added 3 knots to our speed over ground without even trying. Tides around here rule everything. Timing is crucial to get between islands and especially through the Hole in the Wall in the Wessels where the gap is only 67 metres wide and the tide runs at up to 10 knots. Other boats are going through there for the thrill but we are going through the Cumberland Straits a little more to the north where the "thrill" is a little less nail biting!
As we were entering the bay yesterday "2XS" called us up to warn of a massive pearl farm in the bay. This necessitated hugging the northern side of the bay close in to avoid the lines of black mooring buoys which are very hard to see even in daylight. However, we skirted around the edge and came to anchor beside "Settlement" and "2XS". The bay is wide and windswept and there is the usual fringing coral reef out from the beaches so it is not possible to anchor "off the beach". Instead we are quarter to half a mile off the beach in a wind driven chop and 30' of water which doesn't bother the yacht but would make a dinghy ride ashore wet and unpleasant. Jim saw a very large shark swimming slowly under the boat earlier so with those and crocs there's NO swimming! "Solace" and "Screensaver" (both Kiwi boats) came in shortly after us yesterday and they have both left this morning via a circuitous passage to avoid the H in the W altogether. We have opted to stay here for 2 days or so to wait out another expected blow and then will head north for Wigram Island (one night) and then Cumberland. Intermediate stops where possible are desirable to more accurately time the tides on arrival. They are generally 2.5 hours after Darwin. It is very complicated trying to juggle passage times, anchorages and timing the tides through the myriad passes. Some passages flood (rising tide) east and others west. There is one that floods south. You simply cannot go against these massive streams of water. It has been driving us to distraction because as soon as something looks good there is something else to militate against it. The wind here right now (0900 on the 20th.) is between 15-20 knots from the SE but the anchorage is fairly smooth and the holding good. Jean has just done some hand washing and is brewing herself a cup of coffee. Darwin looks as far away as ever but we are making progress and will soon be doing an overnight sail from the Wessels to North Goulburn Island 155 miles to the west so that will cover some ground. We have been told that from the Wessels onwards the sailing is much more enjoyable because the winds are generally lighter and there is the whole of Australia as a lee - not the case on the other side! Let's hope it comes to pass because this sailing so far is taking a toll on us and the boat. We can't wait to get to Darwin.
Hi all, Jim has given you the run down. We are held up here and tonight we are going onto "Settlement" a catamaran for Andrew's birthday. Sue his wife is from N.Z. and used to Nurse at Kawakawa hospital. Small world. We will be joined by Irvin and Jenny off "Backchat", Pete and Marguerite off "2XS" and Tania (another kiwi)and Don (Canadian) off "Pedajo". Will be a nice interlude from sailing. All at last seems possible with about 400 miles to Darwin. But still tides and weather to contend with. Great to speak to Tracie and Perry before leaving Gove. Peapod (pending grandchild) and Mum doing well. Also talked to Sister Heather, who sounds amazing!!!! Well love to all. Jean.
And cheers and love from us both.............

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