Shelburne Bay Lat. 11 degrees 53.7' S Long 143 degrees 05.7' E 30/05/13

We had a whale of a sail today. Left Portland Roads at 0700 as we had only (!) 48 miles to go. Bit of a worry with the watermaker again as the booster pump was making a loud noise when we started it but hopefully it won't be too much of an issue. Still, to be safe we shut it down and will work on it tomorrow as we are staying here for one day.
The wind angles were much kinder to us than yesterday and for the first time we deployed the smaller Genoa which we had installed at Morris. That and a double reefed main proved ideal as at times the wind exceeded 30 knots. The old girl (the boat!) really picked up her skirts and flew - over 8 knots at times. She revelled in it and must have thought she was back in Cook Strait all over again. There was one point where the ship channel passes between 2 reefs and the gap is only .9 of a mile between Fisher Island to port and Inset Reef to starboard. Might sound a lot but when we approached from the south we had already passed one southbound ship and prayed that we wouldn't meet another in the gap because then it would be very small indeed. Fortunately we didn't but as we were approaching and trying to keep the port beacon on the port side in large broaching seas and winds gusting over 30 knots we were then overtaken by a large rain squall which pushed the windspeed even higher and conveniently totally blotted out all visibility of both beacons. Just as well we had the trusty chartplotter which at times like that is a godsend. There really is no room for error, especially at the speeds we were attaining. We had the alarm on the AIS which gives warning of any large ships approaching but fortunately we had the channel to ourselves.
Relieved to be through and then onwards at record speeds. After Moody Reef to starboard the course became NE to clear the Home Islands off Cape Grenville. This is a sizeable group of islands off the cape and there is an inshore passage but in the conditions and with no prior experience we gave that a miss and went around the outside. We furled the Genoa and then gybed the main in over 25 knots and hurtled onwards in a generally westerly direction towards Margaret Bay. As we approached we heard "Backchat" and "Settlement" talking to each other so we called them up. They were about to move further west to Shelburne Bay which gives a somewhat closer point of departure for points north so we carried on and eventually anchored there next to them. Some anxiety about shallow water off a point just before entering the bay and indeed the anchorage is quite shallow, there being only 6 feet under our keel as we speak. Still, it's secure with a mud bottom and roll free which is something after the day we have had. But very satisfying and we know that Tiare enjoyed it.
All this coast is very low, flat and featureless except for spectacular white sand blows and dunes. Where we are anchored it wouldn't feature in any travel brochures. The shore looks most unattractive with mangroves and a rocky fringe. And no doubt crocodiles. Apparently "Settlement" (a catamaran) had a croc underneath the boat between the 2 hulls last night.
We are well up the Cape York Peninsula by now with only 90 miles to go to the top. The challenge from here is to find an acceptable anchorage on the way, otherwise it means an overnight sail in these restricted waters and boisterous conditions. If anything the windspeed increases at night and in the dark navigating between reefs (although well lit and marked) is a bit daunting.
We were told about the Boydong Cays (28 miles north of here) by an ex trawler skipper at the Cairns Chart Agency and that would be an ideal stop but apparently the anchorage is a bit deep. However "Settlement" is leaving ahead of us and will check it out and email us. Otherwise there's the Escape River but it has a shallow bar entrance (2.7 metres at LWS) and can be dangerous in onshore winds like these. And many scaly things with long tails and big teeth. So, it's a bit like Hobson's Choice but no doubt we'll find an acceptable option.
And now at 2030 it's time for bed.
Lotsaluv from us
Jim and Jean (Gina)
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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