Lizard Island Lat 14 degrees 39.7' S Long 145 degrees 27.1' E

Well, seduced by a Grib file weather forecast last night for not more than 18 knots we left Bedford at 0700. We had one reef in the main and motorsailed to make water and power as usual. Then the wind from the SE started showing some strength so we put in a double reef, stopped the engine and hoisted the staysail. We had a reasonable wind angle (broad on the starboard tack as our course was 015T) and the combination worked well, particularly as the wind steadily increased and we were getting sustained periods of 29 and 30 knots. On top of that there was thick overcast and some light rain. Not at all like the travel brochures!! We were getting along at between 5.5 and 6.5 knots with no fuss and no dragging the scuppers through the water. The old girl probably thought she was back in Cook Strait!! That's certainly what it looked and felt like.
We passed Cape Flattery at 1000 (about half way) and observed the endless white silica sand dunes which are being mined by a Japanese company. There is also a substantial shore installation with wharf, etc. There was a large chop of about 1.5 metres although no swell to speak of because of course we were always inside the Barrier Reef. We had our AIS alarm turned on because we were mostly in the north/south shipping channel but only saw a fishing boat.
We eventually arrived at Lizard at 1330 and screamed into the anchorage under sail doing 6 knots with over 25 knots still blowing, although thankfully the sea was at last flat in the lee of the island. Doused the sails and dropped the anchor, then Irvin and his girlfriend from "Backchat" who we had met at Bluewater came over and told us that we had dropped the anchor on a thin layer of sand over soft rock and so might drag. So, we lifted the anchor and moved to where they recommended. We have 120 feet of chain out in 17 feet of water so we should hold on our trusty Rocna.
Although we understand that the weather isn't good right now, we honestly can't see the attraction in this place. The water is clear and the beach looks lovely but really the only thing going for it is that the weather is warm. We might sound nostalgic, but many parts of the Bay of Islands leave it for dead - apart from the temperature! The wind is still screaming and it's drizzling off and on and reputably you would pay 1000's of dollars a night to stay at the resort on the island - which is out of bounds to us common yachties!! Just cannot see the attraction. If we weren't here on a mission on our way to Darwin and Malaysia, we wouldn't be here. And most of the anchorages we have seen on our way up from Bundaberg would fall into the same category. And the relentless SE wind - Capt. Cook became very depressed with these conditions and he didn't have charts or GPS! His sailing master was all for turning back the way they had come, but you can't sail those old square riggers against these conditions. More about the Great Navigator later.
It's now 1600 and time for a lie down!! We plan to stay here for about 3 days and visit the Research Station (from where they keep tabs on the health of the Barrier Reef) so we may develop a little less jaundiced a view towards the place after that. We'll let you know. And it's great to run into fellow yachtie travellers who we have known before in other places.
Love as always from us.............
Jim and Jean xoxoxo
P.S. Don't forget to keep tabs on us on the website - tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com - we won't always be emailing you direct
P.P.S. It is now pouring with rain and the wind in the anchorage is still 17 knots!

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