The arrival Fethiye, Turkey

Hi to all - as always we hope this finds you in the pink. Today (05/04) is the start of day 8 in Turkey. We have been googleing the m.v. Annegret all the way from Phuket and she is now just entering the southern part of the Suez Canal so not far away now. We have in fact been given April 8th. as the ETA Fethiye. Since we arrived in Fethiye (which is about 500 miles south of Istanbul on the south coast of Turkey) we have contacted Sevenstar's agents here and given them the Thai Customs clearance documents as well as our NZ ship registration, Jim's NZ Coastguard certificates (which they were most impressed by!), and our insurance certificates.  Much stricter requirements here than in Asia.

But we are getting ahead of ourselves.

The first thing we must report is that Jean's brother, Keith, is much improved and in fact back home. He was incredibly lucky as apparently the first heart attack occurred in the doctor's surgery where of course everything was on hand to treat him. He was then choppered to Auckland Hospital where there were stents inserted and now back home again. It could easily have been a very different outcome.

We first flew from Phuket to Kuala Lumpur on Malindo Airlines - one and a half hours, an excellent flight and far better than Air Asia in the past. Don't know why we hadn't tried them before. But all the way to KL the haze meant that we could barely see the ground - industrial pollution from China. Another very good health reason to be leaving SE Asia. We have of course commented on this in the past. Thailand's Phang Nga Bay just east of Yacht Haven has some of Thailand's best maritime scenery, but you can't see it until you get close and then it's shrouded in this haze. And the water is not clean either. Thailand is justly famous for its Karst limestone island scenery but it's all being ruined by pollution - lack of proper sewerage treatment, agricultural run-off and of course the industrial haze. It's tragic and covers most of SE Asia. We read somewhere recently that SE Asia is responsible for some 60% of maritime plastic waste floating in the sea worldwide. There needs to be a drastic sea change in basic attitudes but we don't see it happening anytime soon. Our friends, Drew and Kat on Langkawi are making valiant attempts in this regard, but they have an uphill battle. All power to them.

We flew out of KL on Turkish Airlines still on an overall Malindo ticket as that was the most economical way to book the flights. Seems ludicrous that, rather than booking direct with Turkish Airlines, booking through a partner airline is the way to go. However, as a result we also managed to get the appropriate number of Turkish's Miles and Smiles airpoints, so a double bonus. Had 2 aisle seats opposite each other which weren't too cramped. 10 hours to Istanbul and good flight as Turkish always is. Night time flight so managed to sleep with our new neck cushions which was good. Watched "The Darkest Hour" which was a bit of a tear jerker and we hadn't realized just how close Britain came to virtual surrender to Nazi Germany in 1940 - if it hadn't been for Winston Churchill. He was hated and vilified by much of Britain's political establishment and even initially greatly distrusted by the King, but he saved Britain and indeed the rest of the world. History would have otherwise been very different. Senior members of the ruling British Conservative Party - notably Lord Halifax, the Foreign Secretary and the former PM, Neville Chamberlain, were all for a negotiated peace with Herr Hitler. Churchill's rhetorical comment was "how do you negotiate with a tiger when your head is in its mouth?" When Churchill then asked if they would like to see the Swastika flying over Buckingham Palace, certain people were suddenly galvanized into reality!! Shades of Donald Trump - similarly and relentlessly vilified but he is belatedly doing whatever is necessary to re-establish America's commercial and military dominance which can only be in all our interests. Consequences of  a necessary trade war are a price that must be paid. At least it won't be as bad as the London blitz and everything else that occurred during the course of WWII.

We flew into Istanbul just after 5 in the morning local time and had the usual seamless ride through Turkish Immigration and Customs. Ataturk International Airport is a very major hub and could teach some other airports a lesson in efficiency. Soon at our usual haven, the Steigenberger Airport Hotel. After the usual sumptuous Turkish breakfast, we slept for a few hours and eventually made our way down to an early dinner. Then more sleeping. The weather in Istanbul was freezing, cloudy and bleak - 8C and strong northerly winds straight off the Russian Steppes! Bit of a shock after 35+ in Thailand! Fortunately we had sufficient winter type clothes but we are limited in that regard after 4 years in the tropics and our usual policy of travelling light. Jim's Merino wool jersey that Linda had kindly posted from NZ to Yacht Haven was a godsend.

We had one full day in Istanbul the day after so we went to an area where there are 2 shopping malls - heated! Our main focus was to get Turkish Sims for our phones which we did through the local Turkish Vodaphone which had been recommended by the hotel. Our numbers are Jean +90 5469151339 and Jim +90 5469151343.

Had a very good lunch in one of the malls and then back to the Steigenberger for more R & R. Still very tired after the events of the past few days.

The next day we were up bright eyed and bushy tailed ready for our one and a half hour flight to Dalaman which is the airport for Fethiye. The flight wasn't until 1340 but the smaller (mostly domestic) airport at Sabiha Gokcen is much further from the city than the main Ataturk International Airport where we had flown into from KL. So we hopped into a Fiat taxi at 1000 and just as well because the traffic was horrendous. For at least part of the way it's also the main route to Ankara and was heavily clogged with so many trucks. Our driver spent most of his time on the motorway shoulder and passed miles of trucks - otherwise it's doubtful that we would have made it in time. He was great. The usual massive security which is endemic at Turkish airports since the terrorist attack at Ataturk some 2 years ago - bit of a trial taking the laptop out and watch, phones, coins and belts off but all in a good cause.

The flight south was great on Pegasus Airlines. We had exit row seats so plenty of legroom and the scenery was spectacular. Reminded us of a flight from Auckland to Christchurch with rugged mountains and many snow-capped peaks. Soon into Dalaman and onto a large modern bus for Fethiye about an hour away. Great road - 2 lanes in each direction. Can't quite remember but a very cheap trip - only TRY20 each which is NZD14 for both of us. We had booked a room sight unseen at a guesthouse out of Fethiye (the Anna Apart Hotel) on the net so were a bit apprehensive but after a cheap and short taxi ride we were agreeably impressed. Room is small but spotlessly clean. There is a bar/restaurant staffed by friendly people who speak reasonably good English and the distance to Yes Marina where the boat is going to be is only about 10 kms. The hotel is on a main road so a bit noisy but it's near Callis Beach which reminds us a bit of Orewa (similarly flat), although smaller. It's an enclave of Brits - many live here permanently, but also many left since the coup last year and real estate is CHEAP! Around the equivalent of NZD100,000 for a very attractive stand alone villa with a pool. But we feel that there is a pervasive feeling of suppression - probably from the Muslim religion and not least the dictatorial government that has sprung from the coup. Locals are reluctant to talk about politics and there is always a feeling of looking over one's shoulder.

But the people are great and we negotiated a move into a slightly larger apartment still at the Anna with its own cooking facilities - very basic but we can buy food and prepare it ourselves which will save money.  Only TRY80 per night which is NZD28. It's still the off-season but by the time full season arrives we should be back on the yacht. We've been to 2 markets so far and the range of food and goods is mind boggling. Fantastic fresh food and just about everything you can think of. They even grow their own Kiwifruit - at least as good as anything seen in NZ and they call them Kiwis without the faintest idea where the name comes from or indeed where NZ is! So much that is familiar from NZ including loquats, brussels sprouts and all manner of wonderful fruit and veges. And the tastes and flavours which we have largely lost in NZ are to die for.

We hired a car for one day to ease getting around to the port agent etc and also to familiarize us for driving on the wrong side of the road. We have to get used to this sometime as Colombia also drives on the right. Now we have hired a car from another agency which is cheaper. It's a small Renault and is only 75 TRY per day (NZD26) and fully insured. It's manual which is a bit of a challenge as one keeps reaching for the shift with the wrong hand!! But at least the driving here is not murderous as it is in Thailand. Generally locals are courteous but easily get impatient with our slow but steady progress! When you're driving on the WRONG side of the road and don't know you're way around it pays to be a bit slow and steady.

We've been slowly getting more familiar with things and where things are and even found a café in town which is owned by a Brit and is a Brit hang-out. We tried the fish and chips but they were a bit of  disappointment. Fethiye is a lovely town and very picturesque with 1 large marina (Ece) and 2 smaller ones. We prefer Yes Marina and we have met the key people there. They have said that they would move a boat so that we could have an alongside berth due to the difficulty of us getting on and off the stern or bow if we "med moor" stern or bow to. All seems to be on track for "Annegret's" arrival on the 7th. We keep tracking her progress on marinetraffic.com and she is making good progress and on time.

Imagine our chagrin therefore to be told by Sevenstar that they had not yet received the balance of the freight payment. We had organized a wire through our NZ bank and thought that all was in order. However, when we looked into it yours truly had misread a digit of their account number with Deutsche Bank in The Netherlands and of course the payment hadn't been received. The only excuse was that the payment was done when very tired after the 10 hour flight from Kuala Lumpur - but no excuse - only a reason. Anyway, it turned out that Deutsche Bank had returned the funds as there was no such account number - thank goodness. So, after a 3 am (Turkish time) call to ASB in Auckland, it was all sorted. ASB was to re-send the funds and Sevenstar accepted that as we had built up a rapport over a few years and they felt they could trust us!

Anyway, today was the redletter day as forecast. We thought we were to meet the port agent at his office but it turned out to be the Harbour Master's office at 0745 and so we drove into town. Duly met up after that little bit of confusion and were then taken out to "Annegret" which we'd already seen at anchor. Had to climb a vertical rope ladder up the ship's side, which was something of a trial due to the knees!! "Persephone" was to be 1st. to be discharged, followed by another monohull and then us. The first 2 were splashed in the morning and then it was lunchtime. Had a very interesting conversation on board with the British Loadmaster who comes out from the U.K. specially for the unloading. Turns out he is the owner of a clinker built dinghy which had been built as a jolly boat by the Royal Navy in the 50's. He's restored her absolutely authentically - even with a Seagull outboard motor!! Reminded Jim of his clinker sailing dinghy "Tiare Taporo II" built for him by Percy Vos in 1966 and which also at one stage had a Seagull! Now on permanent loan to the Auckland Traditional Wooden Boat School - now in their new premises on Te Atatu Peninsula.

Jean had with usual foresight prepared some great sandwiches which were consumed with gusto and then the crew swung into action. Used the forrard crane port side and the straps were duly lowered down each side. As they took the weight, the supporting chocks were  removed and she was swinging free. Then up and over the side until the deck was level with "Annegret's" well deck where Jean and yours truly were waiting. A precarious exit over the ship's rail and onto TT3"s deck and then we were lowered to her natural environment. What a great feeling to now be in Turkish waters. Jim had already been on board in the morning to start the engine as we have the ability to run the engine out of the water using as cooling water a sink full of fresh water in the galley. So we knew there was no problem with the engine and sure enough once again she started first push of the starter button. A great engine, this 54 yr old Ford. The straps were removed and we said goodbye to "Annegret" and her crew and headed into shore towards Yes Marina. Tried repeatedly to raise them on the phone but to no avail! Talk about frustrating as we had only talked to them the day before. Eventually someone answered the phone and it transpired that our contact was off for the day and he hadn't moved the yacht that he had promised to do. However, by luck there was another alongside berth free and we thankfully tied up there. Totally knackered at this stage. The boat was surprisingly and thankfully very clean down below, but on deck and everywhere on rigging and stanchions etc there was a coating of damp Sahara muddy dust so that will be the priority - cleaning the topsides and deck. But we have to say we have been agreeably surprised by everything. We left her tied up at Yes Marina and then had about a kilometer walk back to the car at ECE Marina. Drove out to Callis Beach area where we had a very welcome beer and late lunch and then back to the hotel where we have crashed. However, Jean has managed to do the washing - as you'd expect!! She even has a washing machine which, although temperamental, sure beats doing it in a bucket on the marina!  

This morning we went to the local Sunday market with a trolley we had bought a couple of days ago and it almost felt like being back in Whangarei - except for the prices and the array of food and other goods such as clothing, etc etc. Then after an abortive attempt to find an environmentally friendly detergent (because it's definitely frowned upon here to put anything in the water - even soapsuds!), we went to the boat. However, plain water removed 90% of the dirt which was Saharan desert mud mixed with salt water  - gluggy but fairly easy to clean off with a good pressure hose and fresh water which we had. The old girl is looking much more her old self and now with biminis back in place. No need for full awnings at this stage as it's nowhere near as hot as Thailand. Today has been cloudy and even some spits of rain, but this evening looking much more threatening. A bit of rain won't be any problem. Next priority is to organise the haulout. The boatyard owner, Levent, will be coming to visit the boat and to discuss what is required.But it's all happening and we are so much relieved that the shipment has been so easy and seamless.

Had a chat to the old girl today and asked her how the trip went. She didn't say much but we had the distinct impression that she found it all quite boring and that she was mightily relieved to be back in her natural medium. She was very pleased to see us again as we were to see her. It's a long way from Evans Bay, Wellington in 1978. And she's in the prime of her life - which we cannot say for ourselves!!

We are sitting here in our apartment cooking lamb chops and mushrooms and veges, so this seems to be a good time to bow out - for now. And wonderful cheap Turkish red wine. Tomorrow is a new week and a new chapter in our Mediterranean adventure. Plans are to stay in Turkey for around 2 months and then make our westing towards Sicily. More to come...................

Cheers,

Jim and Jean

Anna Apart Hotel

Callis Beach

Fethiye

Turkey

www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

Phs. +90 5469151343 and +90 5469151339