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Hi to all and here's hoping you are all in the pink,
Well, it is now day 57 in Medellin and we have only 31 days left. That thought makes us somewhat sad because we really enjoy being here - in spite of all the problems we have had with First American Realty (FAR).
A highlight of recent days was the arrival of Perry and his family on August 23rd. They were picked up from Jose Maria Cordova International Airport late at night by Latin Hosts who we hired for the airport transfers as well as the upcoming tours we organized for them. They provide child car seats which are definitely not common, nor legally required here in Colombia. Incidentally, Jose Maria Cordova Munoz was the Colombian general who finally defeated the Spanish in the War of Independence in 1820.
Great excitement when the Dodge finally pulled up after midnight on the 24th. at the security gate at the entrance to Jardines de la Maria. Great to see them and of course los nietos (the grandchildren). Upstairs to the apartment and soon Carter and Nash were asleep in their queen bed! A bit of a talk and then we were all in bed - ready for the fray later in the morning.
After a late start Perry and Tracie had some work to do so we left them to it on the apartment wifi, and Jean and Jim took los nietos down to a local park (about half a k) where they could run around. We had found a café there previously where we had coffee and los nietos busied themselves picking pebbles out of a garden and throwing them all over the path. Then it was a case of picking them all up and putting them back in the garden! Heaps of gardens and small border hedges all around here on the sides of the roads and all neatly manicured and generally looked after. Until the nietos arrived!!! Then, after a quiet afternoon we all walked along the road to an Italian restaurant we had discovered ( Il Forno) and had a great dinner - as usual. Los nietos had a ride on a miniaturized Harley Davidson which they thought was just the bees knees.
Early to bed as we had to be up fairly early to be picked up by Latin Hosts at 8 to go roughly SE from the city for about 2 hours to a town called el Carmen de Viboral. The main claim to fame is the local ceramics industry where they hand paint all the pieces. El Carmen de Viboral is at least 1,000' higher than Medellin, so it was a climb all the way and the van was a bit noisy in lower gears. In addition the seating was cramped so we were all glad when we finally arrived. Ears were popping all the way!
We were conducted around one of the factories which operated fairly primitively on several floors but it was fascinating to see all the processes - particularly the hand painting itself by a team of skilled ladies who could create a leaf or a flower petal by just a flick of the wrist. The patterns were colourful and exquisitely done and we would have loved to buy a dinner set, but not good to leave in a rented apartment. Maybe when we come back permanently. A 12 place dinner set was around NZD600. They use local clay but also have a more upmarket production which they export to Europe. For this they use clay imported from Italy, so it's really quite a sophisticated operation when you realize just what they produce. There are several ceramics factories in el Carmen de Viboral so it's a significant business.
Then we were taken to a studio where more ceramics painting was being done and we were all given plain white egg cups which we could paint ourselves. Including los nietos!! The results were variable, but Tracie's was probably the most accomplished. Anyway, it certainly made all of us very aware of the skill level necessary to produce the beautiful objects that we saw and we were full of admiration.
We then went on to Santa Elena where we first had lunch which was good with trout etc on the menu before visiting a flower farm. Colombia is the 2nd largest exporter of cut flowers in the world. The farm wasn't commercial, but rather a representation of the more traditional ways of growing a huge variety of flowers including roses, dahlias, calla lilies, bird of paradise and hydrangeas. The commercial operations are all much larger and mostly under cover. The farm was a riot of colour and we were entertained by the farmer whose remarks were translated for us by our tour guide. The original flower growers are known as Silleteros and the way of life the Silletera culture. It was explained to us just how the growers of old used to get their flowers to market in Medellin. Incidentally, this tradition is the origin of the annual Flower Festival of Medellin which has just been held. They had triangular or circular wooden frames which they carried on their backs into which were inserted bunches of flowers. All this was demonstrated to us, after which we all tried the flower laden frames on our backs. We estimated that the weight would have been near 15 kilos fully laden and these hardy Silleteros would carry these on their backs on muddy trails over rugged country AT NIGHT for 11 hours. They always wore the same clothes and carried a particular shoulder bag which always had the necessaries for the journey. Food and probably some Arguardiente - which is rum and Anis. Then, if they didn't sell everything at the flower market in Medellin, they would carry their wares from door to door until everything was gone. Then they would buy things that they couldn't get back home and take them back. And the return journey was particularly arduous as Santa Elena is roughly 1,000' above Medellin, so a climb all the way on the same muddy trails. A hardy bunch indeed. We all had our photos taken with the flower laden frame on our backs. With Jim's knees, probably all he could manage was about 100 metres on the flat, let alone up and down dale. It was starting to get dark by the time we left the flower farm, such was our degree of fascination with the whole enterprise. As an aside, we believe that the generally low humidity allows the flowers to be produced with a degree of hardiness which you don't find in high humidity and it would also have resulted in longer life after cutting. No doubt a major reason for Colombia's present standing in the export cut flower business. The other factors would be low cost of production and proximity to the USA - a very large market.
So, it was a long day, but los nietos were very good and just slept during the return to Medellin. Everyone quite tired when we arrived back so we decided to have a meal at home for once. A rum and some glasses of red Chilean wine and we all felt better! We had some steak which we'd marinated in beer, but we had no idea how it would turn out and we'd never used the oven before! However, we put it in at a low heat and steamed some vegetables and it was all delicious. Again early to bed to sleep well.
The next day had a slow start, but we had planned to go to Parque Arvi which is a very large area of natural bush high above the city's NE side. We walked from our apartment down to the nearest Metro station Ayura. First time for any of us on the Metro and the experience lived up to all the hype. Very clean, well patronized and efficient. Then, after about 20 minutes, off the Metro at the Acevedo station. From there a short walk to the Metrocable terminus. We all fitted comfortably into one cable car and off we went. Jim a little apprehensive as he doesn't like heights but trying to remain nonchalant!! As it happened it was all quite serene being wafted along almost silently through the air - reminded Jim of the American comedian, Shelley Berman who back in the 1960's did a skit on flying and famously said "there's not a damn thing down there people, but air!". He also recounts an imaginary sequence where he summons the stewardess and says "Miss, the wing is a sheet of flame". She replies "coffee, tea or milk?". He says "we don't have time for coffee, tea or milk - we're doomed". She says "oh really, how about a martini?!".
After one change half way up, we eventually arrived at the terminus. On the way the ascent was almost vertical with spectacular views of the city. We passed over some obviously very poor barrios (neighbourhoods) with shanty type brick buildings which were on extremely steep slopes. Wouldn't want to be there in an earthquake. On that note Medellin is built on a very solid layer of granite and it is said that as a result severe damage from an earthquake is very unlikely - touch wood!
Once we'd reached the top of the hill, we continued in a more or less horizontal fashion over bushland until we reached Parque Arvi. There we found the usual collection of tourist outlets and then eventually (because there was next to no signage) we came to a group of shanty type eating places in a rural setting. We ordered a very basic lunch and at that time Nash decided to throw a 2 year old crank which meant that Perry and Tracie had to take turns in wheeling him about in the stroller until he had come back down to earth! But it was a pleasant time and good to have been there with Perry and Tracie and los nietos. Then back down the hill with Jim bravely facing the downhill view and scarcely felt a thing! Maybe it was the beer.Then back on the Metro and a cab back to the apartment.
The next day we were scheduled to do a day trip to Guatape where Jean and Jim had been last year. Guatape is a hydro lake which was formed back in the 1970's when many valleys including the old township of Penol were drowned to create electric power. Sounds like NZ!! The usual climb out of Medellin with ears popping and then once we were up on the plateau, los nietos were carsick! So, there was a necessity for a pitstop at a local roadside café where they had some delicious sweetcorn based empanadas. Jim had 3 !! And coffee. Just what the doctor ordered after another early morning start with very little food. Maybe that was what was wrong with los nietos - anyway, never mind, the mess was cleaned up by Perry and Tracie - just what they needed at that point we're sure!! Then on to el Penol just before Guatape. El Penol is a mammoth volcanic plug which rises vertically from the surrounding countryside and which has over 700 steps built into the side in a zigzag pattern in a fissure in the rock face. Perry, Tracie and Carter elected to climb to the top while the oldies with Jim's creaking joints stayed at the bottom looking after Nash who immediately threw another crank when his immediate family disappeared heavenwards!!! We quietened him down (for a while) with some delicious Colombian beans and rice but it was only short lived! Anyway, they soon descended and were off to a replica of the old town of Penol which had been drowned. Very touristy of course but one doesn't mind that when one is doing the tourist thing. Tracie spied an antique tricycle with a seat for a younger sibling at the back and insisted on buying it much to Perry's dismay. Thoughts of getting it back to Miami no doubt. Jim bought a Silletero shoulder bag which will wow them back in Langkawi that's for sure! He can keep a supply of Aguardiente in the appropriate compartment for those arduous moments! Like entering and leaving the marina and getting hauled out! Jim also bought an old 33.3 rpm vinyl record to play on our new retro styled record player/CD player/radio and tape player! Typical lively Colombian music and the old record was in excellent condition. And Jean bought a fancy sun hat and a T-shirt. Then on to the town of Guatape itself. Old hat to Jean and Jim but great that Perry and Tracie could have a chance to see it. We had lunch at a restaurant on the waterfront and then went for a walk through the town which is almost impossibly colourful with every façade decorated with individual motifs and all colours of the rainbow. Then all too soon it was time to be back in the van for the journey back down to Medellin. Perry and Tracie went out to dinner in the Ponsonby of Medellin (Poblado) while the wrinklies babysat and we had homemade oxtail soup. We cooked some food for los nietos and all was well.
The next day it was decided that we all went to the Tesoro Mall above Poblado. Great views of the city and the valley from up there. And there's an extensive amusement park for the children there as well so we all piled into a Uber taxi and duly arrived. Had a bit of mall food and then we were immersed in the amusement park. Poor old Jim's knees were playing up a bit by then so was good to sit down at various times while los nietos played endlessly. Then back to the apartment in a pedal car taxi - God knows how we all fitted in. Jean and Perry walked off down the road to Il Forno to get some takeaway pizzas. In the meantime Perry and Jim had packed the vintage trike in many layers of bubblewrap and cardboard having first managed to overcome a rusty bolt to take the front wheel off. Many jokes in poor taste about US Customs being very interested in a suspicious parcel from Colombia! Finally at 9pm that night the sad time for departure was upon us. The car seats which had been contaminated, we had taken to the apartment and cleaned and we had put the covers through the washing machine so all was pristine once more. We took the car seats down to the security gate and Perry installed them back in the car. We even managed to get the bubble wrapped trike plus all their luggage into the back - then suddenly it was goodbye and they were gone. We felt quite deflated but there was much to be done - mainly in the on-going discussions with FAR.
Since then we have been out and about seeing new things and areas. And of course FAR. Late last week we had 2 mammoth meetings with them and the upshot is that we are still awaiting clarification for a number of invoice items which, although they had assured us they would answer, they were obviously unable to so do. It is becoming a farce. At the end we then presented them with a counter claim for an amount well in excess of anything they are claiming from us - loss of income and related matters. There has been a deafening silence since. We have decided that we absolutely could not trust them to manage the apartment on-going and so we intend to sack them, but the timing has to be right. In the meantime we have been recommended by our lawyer to another property manager - a young Argentinian lady who has a 3 week old baby which she brings to meetings and breast feeds on demand. She is lovely and very efficient. We went to a local comms provider last week to get the wifi, cable TV and landline transferred to her name so the business of transferring the letting business is well underway. It is fairly complicated because there are property taxes to pay, body corporate fees and comms (as above), so everything has to be properly documented, especially as we are not yet permanent residents and so we cannot put any of these things in our names - except the actual ownership of the apartment. Anyway, it's all underway. Jean's cellphone has also been a problem; the provider we were using proved to have a network that was basically incompatible with her phone, but 2 days ago we finally found a provider that suited the phone - Movistar, Thank goodness for that as it took all day!! All in broken Spanish and translating messages on the translation service on the cellphone. Very trying. New phone number is +57 315 3581195.
The other thing that has been occupying our minds almost to the exclusion of everything else right now is Hurricane Irma. No doubt everyone has been following her destructive path through the Caribbean islands and the inexorable progress towards Miami where Perry, Tracie and los nietos live. For quite a while it seemed as though Miami was in the cross hairs but now at the last minute it seems as though Irma has veered off more to the west which would spare Miami the worst. Maybe their house will survive - this did not seem likely 2 days ago. Storm surge up to 7 metres which occurs as a result of extremely low atmospheric pressure is the main concern and is not survivable, especially when there are wind driven waves on top of it being creating by 100+ knot winds. That creates an irresistible force which almost nothing on land can survive. So on Wednesday night after putting hurricane shutters on all their doors and windows, they packed up one of the cars, said a probable goodbye to their house and possessions and left for Asheville in North Carolina. Much to Jim's chagrin, they left the Mercedes jamming the garage door; Perry's description was that it could act as a paperweight! It won't be much of a paperweight if it starts to float. A particularly difficult leaving was saying goodbye to Rosa, the childrens' Mexican nanny. Rosa has been with them for over 2 years now and everyone, especially the children, is very attached to her. Of course they don't know whether they will be able to return to the house and the life they have had. Rosa apparently was evacuating to Naples on the west coast, but fortuitously had a change of mind and remains in Miami with her family - hopefully clear of any risk of any storm surge inundation.
They drove all night to Savannah, Georgia, had a rest and then on. In the meantime Perry had Microsoft business in Sydney, Australia and so, with nothing more that could be done he flew out from Charlotte (NC). In the meantime Tracie and the boys have rented an apartment in Asheville so they will be safe. They may get some rain and wind in the next few days but no storm surge up in the NC mountains.
We have been hearing reports of people who have elected to stay on Key West and "ride it out". This is a ludicrous decision impossible to understand because KW is west of the south of Florida and so is even more in Irma's sights. In addition, the highest point of land is 16 feet (5.5 metres) above sea level where Earnest Hemingway's 2 story masonry house stands. They might stand a chance if they can hole up in the house if the house remains intact, but that's a big if. Pretty well the whole island will be underwater with storm driven waves of unimaginable height and destructive power. Almost certainly the road south from Miami to the Keys will also be destroyed at some of the many points where it crosses water on causeways and bridges.
Since last night we have been anxiously following Irma's destructive path on www.tropicaltidbits.com - an excellent site with detailed updates every few hours. We were pleased for Perry and Tracie's sake to see that Irma had veered more west than originally expected, thus sparing Miami of the worst effects of storm damage and hopefully their house won't be so badly affected. Now at 1800 on the 10th. Irma is just north of Naples on the west coast and its speed has increased to 14 mph which will take it away more quickly. Just as well Rosa elected to stay in Miami. That Miami seems to have escaped the worst that could happen is nothing short of miraculous - although there has been a degree of storm surge which may have affected the house. We'll have to wait and see.
Complete change of subject and just to make everyone feel jealous - this afternoon (Sun.) we walked a short distance along the road to where there is a small museum located in what used to be a country house (Finca) before all the apartment high rises. Beautiful old place with a delightful garden full of many plants that we are familiar with in New Zealand. Bromeliads, tree ferns, grasses, etc. etc. There is a café/restaurant around the back and it was packed when we arrived about 3 pm. We managed to find a table and the food was the best we have had in a long time. Creamy tomato/vegetable soup, maize empanadas with cheese inside and a lovely sauce, and thin slices of beef on toast with green olives and olive oil. And the piece de resistance - coffee with vodka and amaretto (called Georgia). The whole thing was absolutely delicious and we staggered out after having had 4 (2 ea.) gorgeous Georgias!! And only COP52,500 (NZD25).
That's it from us for now - hope everyone is well.
Lotsaluv from us in Medellin..........................
Jim and Jean
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