Krabi almost 7 weeks on

Hi to all again,
Time flies. It's hard to believe that we have been here nearly 7 weeks. We moved from our earlier accommodation at Be Rich Guesthouse to the Udomlalp Resort which sounds much grander than it is. Our previous accommodation was costing us 6500 Baht (NZD232) per month and now the new place is 9000 Baht (NZD321) which isn't a great increase. Our main reason for the move was that there was absolutely no English spoken at Be Rich and so it was a continuing problem in just trying to organise changes of linen and other boring domestic matters!! The new place is more interesting and Add, who along with her husband Sawing owns the place, does speak some English. We are in a studio unit (no. V8!!) which, along with 9 others is built on stilts over and surrounding a muddy pond which has lilies and fish in it. Quite unusual and picturesque but there are mossies! So we can't sit out on our verandah of an evening as we wish to avoid as much as possible getting bitten and running the risk of Malaria and/or Dengue. The units are all air conditioned but again there are no cooking facilities so we have to either buy items that need no preparation at local markets or eat out. We buy lots of fruit and have discovered cooked chicken rolls and smoked pork hocks which have a surprising amount of meat on them. Just lately there have been the red Lychees which are huge and delicious. Apart from that there are mangoes - smaller than those we enjoyed in Queensland but equally sweet and tasty - bananas of course, Australian oranges, apples from France, NZ and Australia - no prizes for guessing which ones we buy! - and Kiwifruit from France and now NZ.
On the health front things have been a little fraught. Jim's sciatica flared up with a vengeance a week ago last Saturday and so we decided to go to the Krabi International Hospital rather than trying more traditional Thai massage. It was touch and go whether Jim could get to the car (about 50 metres) such was the pain but eventually he made it and then it was 20 kms to the hospital. KIH is only 5 months old and state of the art. There was a fleet of wheelchairs at the Emergency front entrance and Jim was duly deposited into one - a new experience for sure!! But just at that time it sure beat walking, even with the aid of Des's stick. We both decided to register as Jean needed to talk to someone about her on-going hip/ligament problems. We are really a couple of old crocks that's for sure. Just as well these ailments hadn't presented themselves this time last year when we were at Guruliya Bay on the western side of the Wessel Islands, (north of Arnhem Land, Northern Territory) on our way to Darwin. We'd had some good sails but very little respite from the constant SE winds. This year is such a contrast and very welcome for that. Not to say that we didn't enjoy most aspects of the sail from Cairns, but we badly needed this "time off". All this seems so bizarre when we remember all that has happened between now and then, especially the lout from "Tintin" who we hadn't even met this time last year. It'll be too soon if we ever meet again, that's for sure!!
Anyway, we both saw a Thai doctor who ordered X-rays for us both and an MRI scan for Jim. The latter was also a new experience; you lie prone under a massive disc which hovers just above chest height. Jim was told the process would take 45 mins and not to move at all during that time. No problem - it was all so comfortable that he went to sleep and was only awakened when the machine gave off some loud and very annoying noises. When all that was over a herniated disc was diagnosed which had been impinging on one of the sciatic nerves (there are 5) and causing extreme pain and discomfort down the left leg. Apart from the obligatory anti inflammatories there are some specific exercises to do and Jean is riding shotgun to ensure that this brutal regime is adhered to!! Jean has been having a series of appointments with a physiotherapist and that seems to be giving good results apart from a hiccup last weekend when it was her turn to be in a wheel chair. But at the moment we seem to be both on the mend.
A comment about the hospital - when you enter it's like walking into a luxury resort foyer with smiling uniformed staff ready to greet you. The service is warm and friendly and facilities second to none. Only problem is that comparatively few speak much English (even our doctor) and so meaningful discussion about whatever ails one is trying. It is certainly something they need to get to grips with if they wish to compete longterm with Malaysia in the "medical tourism" stakes.
The Tiare is coming along. The latest is that we have decided, subject to the availability of a suitable carpenter, to raise the height of the cockpit sole (floor to landlubbers) by 120 mm. This will make entry and exit far easier (particularly for more and more decrepit old sailors) and also make sitting in the cockpit more comfortable. It might even mean that the cockpit drains get rid of water instead of at present admitting more than goes out!! New varnish and paint everywhere with the decks sanded and the old girl is looking great. All the engineering and electrical work is done and all that remains is the new cockpit bimini and raising of the sole. We have done minimal work ourselves of late due to our ailments but also the labour rates are so reasonable and the workers so skilled (superyacht standard) that it's made sense to have some more things done.
We continue to live at our "resort" built over a dugout swamp. It's picturesque but we live in airconditioned luxury with everything closed to avoid the mossies. The weather at times lives up to its monniker - the wet season but there are sufficient dry spells to allow work to be done. Driving continues to be an extreme exercise in defensive driving and one should never be lured into a false sense of security. Similarities to sailing really in that regard. Just today we were almost lured into starting on a green light and realised just in time that someone had turned the light standard so that the green looked for all the world like it applied to 2 sets of diverging traffic. A close call.
A couple of weeks ago we were kindly invited to a Sunday lunch at a beach about 30 kms from here by Des, Ked and their crew. It was a delightful experience sitting around a large table on the sand under a tree not unlike a NZ Pohutukawa in growth habit with massive horizontally growing branches but much larger leaves. There was a seafood restaurant there and the food was served in great abundance - beautiful Thai flavours and wonderful and at times hilarious company. There were Des and Ked, A, Wit and his wife, Ning and Yoon, and Joo - hope we haven't left anyone out. A, Ked and Joo speak good English but we feel very inadequate in that area. We are in Thailand and so should make more of an effort to speak Thai! However, our 2 month visas expire on July 5th. and although we can obtain a 1 month extension, it isn't long enough to fully assimilate into Thai culture, especially when our focus is the refit of the boat.
Still, after we return up here in a few months after going back to Langkawi (Malaysia) and cruising back up here amongst the spectacular limestone Karst islands of this region maybe we will be able to make ourselves understood. Good morning is sawadi ka (speaking to a woman) and sawadi kap to a man. Thankyou is koppen ka. That's about the extent of our Thai language skills at the moment.
Well, there's another fascinating account of our time here in Thailand - more to come that's for sure.
With love to everyone,
Jim and Jean
Krabi
Thailand
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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