Darwin at last 04/07/2013. Lat 12 degrees 26.9' S Long. 130 degrees 51.0' E

Well, we've had some milestones on this journey - Cape York and crossing the Gulf of Carpentaria being the main ones. But now, the biggest of all when we arrived in Darwin on the 4th. July.
But first we must go back........
Sunday 30th. June.
We left the first anchorage in Port Essington and headed across the inlet (6 miles) to Coral Bay on the western side where there is an upmarket eco resort. On the way across we had gusts over 30 knots - we are getting heartily sick of this constant wind. And as there's an 18 mile fetch up the inlet from the south, the seas manage to rise to some ferocity. So, we steamed across under very reduced sail and dropped anchor off the resort. The anchorage was rolly as usual but we're used to that now and we were just glad to be somewhere for a couple of days. As the boost pump on the watermaker had finally given up the ghost we had to devise some means of getting water from the shore out to the yacht. Bill on "Kularoo" and another Aussie on a very scruffy boat lent us some 20 liter containers and so the plan was to use them in the morning. In the meantime we went ashore and checked out the resort which had eye watering prices. We were so tired when we went ashore that we could hardly put one foot in front of the other! Beer $9-10 a bottle and a daily charge for anchoring in the bay of $25 per boat (this included use of all the resort facilities including the pool) - although they tried to say it was $15 per person. They claimed that the justification for this was that they leased the property from local Aborigines and the lease included the bays and all the associated foreshore. Maybe shades of what is to come in Godszone??? Anyway, we didn't quibble and paid for 2 days. The resort is very low key and very impressive. Whoever developed it had done an excellent job. It's all single story with a great view of the bay from the restaurant and other public areas. And the pool is a magnificent example of natural pool building. You could almost swear that you were in a billabong with the resident crocodile about to make an appearance.
Monday 1st. July.
We spent the first part of the morning living up to our star signs - Aquarius (the water carrier). Jim plus 3 x 20 litre containers in our little dinghy was quite enough of a load and we then hoisted them on board by means of the spinnaker halyard. Then decanting into the yacht's tanks needed a bit of ingenuity but all was accomplished (full tanks) after only three trips and in spite of the ever present strong wind and rolling anchorage. Then we went back ashore with Bill and Gael from "Kilaroo" for lunch - $30 per head. It was a well prepared and presented meal but for $30 one might have expected a bigger piece of fish, especially as they claimed to have caught it themselves. Incidentally diesel was $5 per litre so we didn't buy any of that, although it would have given us some peace of mind. However, in the event we were to get so much wind that we did not have to use much fuel. Later our friends Chris and Lyn arrived on "Out of the Blue II" arrived along with another catamaran "Alleycat". It was great to be in touch with them all again.
Tuesday 2nd. July.
After a few radio conversations with "Kularoo" we eventually overcame our indecision and left Coral Bay in a strong wind warning for Popham Bay (31 miles) which was to be our jumping off point for the infamous Cape Don and the tide strewn van Dieman Gulf. There is a great deal of history in this area, some of which we have read about and some very tragic such as the settlement at Victoria in Port Essington, but regrettably we have never had time to indulge this interest. We've always had the deadline to get to Darwin and usually weather forecasts dictated when we left anchorages. You can't afford to swing around an anchor for 3 or 4 days if there is a weather window because then you could be waiting for another week for the high over NZ to bugger off!! We had a great sail in the usual strong winds and covered the distance quickly giving Vashon Head at the western entrance to Port Essington a 5 mile berth due to the usual reefs and shoals. Then when we turned into Popham the wind died and so did our engine!! On top of that there was a tidal current over 1 knot taking us back out to sea!! So, "Kularoo" kindly took us in tow for the 4 miles into the anchorage. It's no easy matter towing a 15 ton yacht and Bill on "Kularoo" did a sterling job. We will be forever grateful. We were lucky to have been with them in convoy. The problem turned out to be air in the fuel which we can only surmise came about due to the turbulent seas washing fuel around in the fuel tanks. We had let the port tank that the fuel is drawn from get a bit low whereas the starboard tank remained fairly full - now they are equalised!! It was then a matter of "bleeding" the fuel system and hey presto away she went again. This was accomplished in smoother waters before we reached the anchorage. But not without stress and the effort of working on the engine in the heat. All the while Jean steered the yacht to follow "Kularoo". At least the anchorage was smooth and we could get a much needed sleep before tackling the notorious van Dieman Gulf.
Wednesday 3rd. July.
First we need to repeat the warning in the cruising guide "NT Coast Cruising Guide" by John Knight to emphasise the issues with wind and tide in the van Dieman Gulf. We reproduce here: "Dundas Strait is 15 miles across at its narrowest point and passes a vast amount of water with each tide back and forth between van Dieman Gulf and the Arafura Sea. The wind is also funneled through the gap. The result of this interaction is strong tidal streams and very rough water. Overfalls occur off the major headlands and in mid-channel, with tidal streams at over 3.5 knots. Close inshore the flow is even faster where constricted with shoals. At times the whole strait is churned into breaking seas by wind and tide. In late morning when the wind may rise to 20-25 knots, progress to windward against steep breaking seas can be almost impossible. Waves often reach 2 metres and being short bring the vessel to a shuddering halt before sweeping aboard. The most severe conditions will be met off Cape Don". This was the background to our thinking prior to starting this passage in order to get to Darwin. No wonder we were apprehensive!
It was anchors aweigh again at 0500 in light winds and no indication of the rough water for the next 50 miles ahead. We motorsailed just ahead of "Kullaroo" in the dark between a small island and the mainland all with large reefs around them. We had one reef in the main but began wondering whether we should shake it out when the wind started increasing. So we decided to leave things as they were and see how things developed. We didn't have to wait long and with some difficulty put the 2nd reef in just in time. We had timed our arrival off Cape Don to coincide with the flood into Darwin but as the tides were neaps rather than springs, the flow was not very strong - about 1.5 knots at times. Just as well because the wind steadily increased as did the seas and Jim was regretting his earlier decision not to deploy the staysail but with the wind more ahead of us contrary to forecasts and very strong the staysail was becoming necessary. Jim then made 3 attempts to hoist the sail but it took 3 tries before being successful in the conditions. With the motion of the boat so violent it was all one could do to hang on let alone actually do anything but in the end up it went. All the while the Fleming self steering steered the boat and handled the conditions with normal aplomb. Once the staysail was hoisted we reduced the genoa and then under the double reefed main she was much more manageable. We had the usual waves breaking against the boat and being showered with water in the cockpit. We were forced over to the Melville Is. south coast by the wind and had some shoals to avoid. A barge ahead of us going our way interrupted a radio conversation we were having with "Kullaroo" to say there was no problem going between a gap in the shoals and that the seas would be less. One wouldn't want to go over them because then the water becomes even more turbulent in the shallows. However, once abeam of Cape Keith on Melville Island the wind shifted more in our favour and we were able to lay Cape Hotham, our anchorage destination. Then the wind gradually reduced in strength which was a great contrast after the earlier hours. So much so that we spent the last 12 miles (2 hrs) motorsailing. Cape Hotham was the usual uninteresting low lying peninsula and we eventually anchored with "Kullaroo" (and 6 other yachts) in Mangrove Bay about 2 miles south and on the Darwin side of the cape. All the way through van Dieman Gulf the colour of the water reminded us of snow melt in the south island and the shore in the anchorage was simply very thickly wooded with mangroves - ideal crocodile habitat. Not conducive for going ashore and meeting crocodiles! "Happy Camper" meatballs and rice for dinner and we collapsed into bed exhausted.
Thursday 4th. July.
Not quite so early to up anchor this morning, but still underway at 0600 - 45 more miles to the end of this epic journey. Finished up motorsailing the whole way because the wind only briefly went above 12 knots! On "Kularoo's" recommendation we took a slightly shorter route through South Channel south of the Vernon Islands - a little tortuous between reefs but reasonably picturesque and a bit of a navigation challenge to keep us awake! Had a good favourable current for a time. Then a long boring stretch into Darwin Harbour passing over Middle Ground - a shoal but with enough water for us. Once we had phone contact we rang the number for Fisheries who handle the compulsory hull inspections for foreign marine organisms. A nuisance but we couldn't enter any marina without the necessary piece of paper. We managed to arrange an appointment for 1330 which was great and meant we wouldn't have to anchor and wait. So we headed lickety split for the Cullen Point Marina where there is an all-tide pontoon just outside the marina lock gates where one can get fuel and have the inspection done. We rafted alongside a Norwegian yacht ("Frida") to await the divers. In the meantime we made the acquaintance of the skipper of "Frida" (Frank) and had a series of interesting conversations. His English is excellent. Then the diving tender duly arrived and rafted outside of us. Although the inspection was free, it was no wonder to us why things are so expensive in Australia, and in particular in the NT. There were 6 guys on the boat and they had state of the art diving gear all at a phenomenal hourly rate, no doubt. And all they did was stand around while one of them swam under the boat, checked our engine water intake strainer (at our request), and squirt some biocide into all our salt water intakes except the one for the watermaker. And they've no hope of stopping any unwanted organisms because they don't treat boats that don't go into marinas! An example of loony bureaucracy gone mad. Then we were not allowed to use the engine or the head for 14 hours as they both use salt water. No big deal and we had a peaceful night tied up to "Frida".
Friday 5th. July.
We moved up to the fuel bowser just ahead of us and managed to squeeze in 168 litres (incl. 60 litres which we carry in containers on deck). This was less than we expected so that was a pleasant surprise. Then back alongside "Frida" to await departure for Tipperary Waters Marina nearer to high tide. We left Cullen Point at 1230 for the 5 miles to Tipperary - "Frida" following as she was going in there too.. This took us past the commercial wharves and then around into Frances Bay Creek. Quite shallow there and we had to be religious about keeping to the channel. We were in touch by VHF with Keith (the lockmaster at Tipperary) and he had us in sight. Then his handheld VHF ran out of battery and without continuing instructions we very nearly ran aground - it was only that Jean saw this frantically waving figure on the rock wall that saved us from this ignominious fate! However, all was well and we entered the entrance to the marina lock and tied up. Keith explained the procedure to us and closed the outer gates. Then a large noisy pump started and the water level started rising. Up we rose about 3 metres - a very strange feeling. A first for us and also for Tiare! Then Keith drove Jim to the office where he explained where our berth was and then back to the boat where Jean was looking after the mooring lines on the lock wall. Plenty of fenders!! The inner gates then opened and we moved into Tipperary and to our berth very close in. Excellent and sooooo glad to finally be here!!! All marinas in Darwin have lock gates as the tidal range can be as much as 7 metres and it's the only way marinas can operate.
We finally started "coming down" and were wandering around like zombies doing odd tidying up jobs. Had a few whiskies and started feeling a bit better then decided to go to a cafe not 30 metres away for dinner. Met Frank and his crew (Morten) and had dinner with them. More good conversation but wilting towards the end! Into bed and almost immediately in lala land!
Saturday 6th. July.
Beautiful weather - even somewhat cold in the early hours. So, early this morning we hoisted the main before any wind started and hosed all the salt off it and the rest of the boat. Then bacon and real (!) eggs for breakfast and while we were waiting for the sail to dry before furling it for the duration there was a hail from the dock and it was Neil who we had last seen on "Cigale" in northern New Caledonia in 2011. We knew he was working in Darwin and expected to make contact sometime but it was great to see him and reminisce. He has offered the use of his car from time to time which will be a boon. There is also a reasonable bus service from here into town (only 10 minutes) and a similar time up to Fannie Bay where we will go on Monday to pick up the Rally information from the Indonesia Rally people at the Darwin Sailing Club. We need to apply for our Indonesian Social Visas from the Consulate also fairly soon.
We've already got the broken genoa to the sail loft and collected our replacement watermaker pump. Haven't fitted it yet - maybe tomorrow? Feeling much better now and as this is being typed some more whisky which induces a most mellow feeling!!
We'll get out and about some more from tomorrow.
We feel that the passage from Cairns to here has been probably the most physically demanding thing either of us has ever been involved in. Not without its lighter moments (see www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com) but it's the incessant wind that's been psychologically and physically demanding. Sailing downwind in a monohull is better than sailing upwind but we ROLL. The best for us is a beam reach - but this rarely happened except across Carpentaria but then we had the tidal effects as well and had 4-5 metre seas. However, we are now finally here and very relieved to be relaxed in a good marina. Plenty of fellow yachties we can relate to and now looking forward to the next stage of our adventure - 450 miles to Kupang in Indonesian Timor.
More from us again very soon.
Lots of love
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo

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