Gt Barrier

On Saturday morning we picked up our anchor in Graveyard Bay, Whangaparapara and, as the wind had moderated, we motored over to where "Sina" was anchored near the wharf and Gt Barrier Lodge. We said goodbye to Noel, Litara and Sina as they were sailing direct for Urquarts Bay, Whangarei and then went ashore where we spent a pleasant lazy time having cups of tea and reading the Saturday Herald and the history of the area along with many fascinating photographs of the early days at the Lodge. We even had some toasted sandwiches!! Then we decided to go for a walk and had in mind we would go to the Kaitoke Hot Springs but we missed the turnoff from the road and had a quite boring walk up a seemingly endless hill!! So, we turned back and met a fellow walker (from Wisconsin, USA!!) She knew the way better than we did and we found the turnoff onto the track, thanks to her. However, time had moved on and we were worried about the tide coming in and carrying our dinghy away so after a pleasant walk through some Gt Barrier bush we returned to the Whangaparapara Wharf. But not before a few glasses of wine at the Lodge!! And the dinghy was still there! After all that walking (and wine no doubt!!) we were more than ready for bed.
So, the next morning we had a very rude awakening from our slumbers when Jean (Gina) received a text from a friend of hers advising us that there was a tsunami warning out as a result of the 8.8 Richter scale earthquake in Chile. In 10 minutes we had the anchor up and by 0815 had started moving as Whangaparapara, being a long narrow harbour, would be a nasty trap in the event of a tsunami of any size hitting the coast. In fact the warning stated that the first effects of the tsunami could be felt as early as 0800 so there was no time to be lost. We warned 2 other boats on the way out and started our short journey to Port Fitzroy a little ahead of schedule! We felt much happier out of the harbour and, although still fairly close to the coast, in about 200 feet of water. Water depth is the best defence against tsunamis as they generate their height and destructive power once they approach shallow and shoaling water.
We noticed no effect whatsoever from any tsunami generated waves and had a very picturesque passage for about 12 miles up the coast eventually rounding Wellington Head into Port Abercrombie which is the outer part of Fitzroy. We went across to Nagle Cove where in the early 1800's the largest ship ever built in NZ was launched. She was the barquentine "Stirlingshire". As with Whangaparapara it is very difficult to imagine the scale of sawmilling and ship building that was carried on in those days. Of course it was environmental rape on a grand scale with early photographs of Whangaparapara looking as though a nuclear bomb had been detonated. Much of the Barrier is regenerating now but it will be several hundred years before it is back to the natural magnificence it once had with mature Kauris and other native trees. Maybe one could discern a degree of hypocrisy in these comments as "Tiare Taporo III" is also built of NZ heart Kauri and undoubtedly non plantation grown Burma Teak!! As well as other various timbers to a lesser extent.
We eventually anchored in Port Fitzroy itself within easy rowing distance of the wharf! We went ashore and checked out the metropolis. The wharf with fuel facilities, an information kiosk, a general store and a tavern only open 4 days a week (not today!) comprise the extent of civilisation here.
Thankfully the tsunami didn't amount to anything significant here and all is well on board in the most beautiful tranquil anchorage. There is a full moon and one could wax most lyrical but instead will leave it to your imagination!
Tomorrow we plan to do some hiking in the area. We are now sadly contemplating the end of our current cruise as we have to be back in Whangarei in time to be hauled out on March 8th. But there are things to attend to and we need to be back a few days before that preferably. We will explore the greater Fitzroy area in the next couple of days and then once we identify a suitable weather window will set sail for Bream Head. We could actually see the Hen (of the Hen and Chickens) today as we came into Port Abercrombie. Only 40 odd miles away.
Hope this finds you all well.
J & J (G)

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