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Well, today is a red letter day. We had been persuaded by Bill on "Kularoo" to come with them today on a 51 mile leg to Port Essington which is a real jumping off point for Darwin. This entailed a 0500 start from Valentia Is. to arrive here in daylight. The first leg of 8 miles was due west to the southern end of Bowen Strait which is a mostly fairly shallow 15 mile stretch of water west of Croker Is. and the mainland further to the west. Just as well we have the chartplotter because the physical landscape features are so devoid of individual character and low lying that they are not visible until about 5 miles (or less) off. If one was dependent on compass bearings it would be difficult indeed because usually there's nothing obvious to take bearings of. Even approaching Bowen Strait just after dawn gave no indication of the navigable pass up the mainland coast until we were almost upon it.
However, at the waypoint we turned onto the first compass bearing (314 true) full of foreboding as to the likelihood of there being enough water under us. However, we needn't have worried because at times there was over 80' and sometimes around 20'! Then we worried until the depth slowly increased again. The other concern was the tide which is significant through there. But again we needn't have worried because apart from a fairly constricted area where the current was 2.5 knots against us (and we used the engine) the rest of it only had a maximum of 1 knot against us and we sailed the whole way with poled out genoa and single reefed main prevented on the other side (goosewinged). Then as we exited the northern end of the strait the wind piped up to 25 knots so we went head to wind to further reef the main - then set sail once more. Even with this much reduced sailplan we were keeping up with "Kularoo" - often only 100 metres separating us. Mostly the sea was fairly flat as we were in the lee of Croker Is. just about all the way to Danger Point where we started to head west again after taking care to round Sandy Is. no. 2 on its outside. All quite shallow and quite bizarre to be rounding a major point or cape in 30-50' of water. Not like the rocky crags of Cape Brett with its 200' of water close in.
Then it was a straight downwind run to Smith Point which marks the eastern entrance into Port Essington which is a very large inlet 18 miles long. There's a nasty reef with breaking seas off the point to which we gave a wide berth - about a mile. We were achieving over 6 knots with our small genoa and double reefed main in over 20 knots of wind. The coastline remained very low lying and absolutely featureless so it was only the charts and chartplotter that gave any indication of the deep inlet round the point.
When we turned for the run in we then had the wind on the beam and we fair steamed into Essington almost gunwhales under! A fitting end to a most successful day. The anchorage is a bit rolly but it's a means to an end and tomorrow we are going across to the Coral Bay Resort where apparently you can swim in their pool for $25 per boat and have lunch for $25 per person which we are looking forward to.
Civilisation again at last!! Darwin just round the corner.
Cheers and love from us........
Jim and Jean
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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Saturday, 29 June 2013
Friday, 28 June 2013
Valentia Island Lat. 11 degrees 23.3' S Long. 132 degrees 46.4' E
Before chronicling today's doings, Jean's herculean efforts in the galley and on deck need mentioning. She consistently provides tasty snacks during the day even under extreme duress when the boat is rolling scuppers under sailing downwind - which is most of the time. And tonight is just another example where we had steak (Jim) and salmon (Jean) plus veges and all at the end of a gruelling day. And whenever there's a job to do on deck such as the other night coming across to the Goulburns when we had to gybe the main in difficult conditions she put on her harness, clipped on and went out in thr dark to transfer the main preventer from one side to the other while yours truly controlled the boat rolling diabolically - itself no mean task. We've said it before - this cruising the oceans in a small yacht is no sinecure. G&T's in the cockpit is a mirage and this coast is probably one of the most difficult to sail. High winds (mostly downwind which means ROLLING) and then up here strong tidal currents all combined with indifferent anchorages. Asia better be worth it!!!
Today we left North Goulburn at 0700 after 2 other catamarans had arrived from the Crocodiles in the small hours. We couldn't use the engine much because we are getting worried about our fuel reserves so we sailed straight downwind for 35 miles rolling all the time. Started off with the main double reefed and poled out genoa but as the wind didn't show any signs of increasing we shook the reefs out of the main. Probably increased our speed by 1 knot but then the tide turned and we eventually at 1300 rounded de Courcy Point doing 5 knots over the ground with Cape Cockburn 3 miles ahead. At last a slightly better wind angle and we then turned for the final 8 mile approach to Valentia. Not a bad anchorage but has the usual roll coming round the point. Darwin now 230 miles - within reach!!
Tomorrow something a bit different. We pass through Bowen Strait which is shallow (20-30') and strewn with banks. Fortunately all well charted so we will be relying on the chartplotter as usual!! Then either Raffles Bay or on to Port Essington which is 51 miles from here. We'll see how we go.
Lots of love from us..........
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxo
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Today we left North Goulburn at 0700 after 2 other catamarans had arrived from the Crocodiles in the small hours. We couldn't use the engine much because we are getting worried about our fuel reserves so we sailed straight downwind for 35 miles rolling all the time. Started off with the main double reefed and poled out genoa but as the wind didn't show any signs of increasing we shook the reefs out of the main. Probably increased our speed by 1 knot but then the tide turned and we eventually at 1300 rounded de Courcy Point doing 5 knots over the ground with Cape Cockburn 3 miles ahead. At last a slightly better wind angle and we then turned for the final 8 mile approach to Valentia. Not a bad anchorage but has the usual roll coming round the point. Darwin now 230 miles - within reach!!
Tomorrow something a bit different. We pass through Bowen Strait which is shallow (20-30') and strewn with banks. Fortunately all well charted so we will be relying on the chartplotter as usual!! Then either Raffles Bay or on to Port Essington which is 51 miles from here. We'll see how we go.
Lots of love from us..........
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxo
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Thursday, 27 June 2013
South Goulburn Is. Lat. 11 degrees 31.3' S Long. 133 degrees 23.6' E
This is the final push towards Darwin. Yesterday we left Elcho Is. in the morning and sailed all day through the Arafura Sea north of the Crocodile islands (which have lots of unsurveyed water within them) and on to the Goulburns - 150 odd miles in total. We left on the morning of the 26th. and arrived here non stop after an overnight sail today (27th.) at 1430. A mixed bag of sailing. We had light conditions when we left and then the wind came up a little and we deployed our secret weapon (the UPS). This worked well for a while when we were on 293T for 45 miles but then when we changed course north of the Crocodiles and came around onto 268T the wind piped up and went NE. By then it was dark and all we could do was sail NW in winds which freshened to 20+ knots. We were hooning along under single reefed main only when after a few hours the wind started moving SE again and we were able to lay the channel between North and South Goulburn. Off the northern Crocodiles we had to avoid some shoals in the dark which thanks to the chartplotter we did. But it's a surreal feeling watching the depthsounder in the dark tens of miles from anywhere for shallow water. It went from 100' down to 40 or so but then soon went back down finally to 150'. We had a brisk sail all night and at dawn were 50 miles from our destination. Still blowing and we were on course. Some discussion with "Kullaroo" ( an Australian catamaran we sailed in company with) about the best approach to the Goulburns because strong tidal streams are a feature of this coast. We worked out that we would in fact approach the channel between the Goulburns around midday which was when the tide started to ebb in our favour so that worked out well. Tides are all important round here.
We couldn't see the Goulburns until about 5 miles off as they are the usual low featureless islands but the chartplotter guided us in. We anchored very thankfully after not much sleep and lots of rolling. The water is cloudy and discoloured - much the same colour as the South Is. alpine rivers when the snow melts. But all fully surveyed around here and the anchorage is secure. On to Valentia Is. tomorrow (42 miles) and Darwin 4 days later. The trip from Cairns is a marathon and we will be very glad to be finally there in Darwin. One more major challenge and that's the tidal currents in Van Dieman's Gulf before Darwin. Timing is everything but we think we have it sussed. The tidal range is 6-7 metres and the marinas are behind locks to keep the water in!
Message from Jean: Happy birthday, Jo and hope all is well with you and the boys. Love to hear from you or them sometime.
Lots of love from us.............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
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We couldn't see the Goulburns until about 5 miles off as they are the usual low featureless islands but the chartplotter guided us in. We anchored very thankfully after not much sleep and lots of rolling. The water is cloudy and discoloured - much the same colour as the South Is. alpine rivers when the snow melts. But all fully surveyed around here and the anchorage is secure. On to Valentia Is. tomorrow (42 miles) and Darwin 4 days later. The trip from Cairns is a marathon and we will be very glad to be finally there in Darwin. One more major challenge and that's the tidal currents in Van Dieman's Gulf before Darwin. Timing is everything but we think we have it sussed. The tidal range is 6-7 metres and the marinas are behind locks to keep the water in!
Message from Jean: Happy birthday, Jo and hope all is well with you and the boys. Love to hear from you or them sometime.
Lots of love from us.............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
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Tuesday, 25 June 2013
Refuge Bay, Elcho Is. Lat. 11 degrees 49.8' S Long. 135 degrees 51.7' E
We travelled 39 miles today from Guruliya Bay in the Wessels to Refuge Bay, Elcho Is. Left Guruliya at 0630 in light winds for a change and these are forecast to continue until Saturday. We gave the north end of Stephens Is. a wide berth because of shoals and tide rips off the point but still our speed was reduced by up to 2.5 knots at times. Very frustrating. However, once around our speed picked up and we sailed the whole of the rest of the way to Elcho with full main, staysail and genoa. It was a lovely peaceful sail in up to 20 knots but mostly around 15. All the islands we passed to port were low, sandy and scrub covered - very unappealing and with extensive shoal areas and reefs around points so careful attention to the chartplotter was necessary.
We all arrived about the same time into the bay which is wide, shallow and windswept but calm. In summary, a very peaceful sail in calm conditions along a series of most uninteresting islands. More tomorrow.
Cheers and love from us.......
Jim and Jean oxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
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We all arrived about the same time into the bay which is wide, shallow and windswept but calm. In summary, a very peaceful sail in calm conditions along a series of most uninteresting islands. More tomorrow.
Cheers and love from us.......
Jim and Jean oxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
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Sunday, 23 June 2013
Guruliya Bay Wessel Islands Lat.11 degrees 36.1' S Long. 136 degrees 17.8' E
We arrived here yesterday from Inglis Is. from where we left at 0530 to catch the tide through between 2 small islands on the southern Wessels. We had virtually no wind to begin with so our poled out Genoa was not much help but as we approached the channel the wind increased as usual to 20 knots +. We were about half an hour too early for a favourable tide so for a time we were slowed down and pummeled by big confused seas as the wind fought the tide. Story of our lives! However, when we were nearly through and hand steering to avoid reefs close on each side the tide abruptly changed, the seas flattened and our speed increased by 5 knots! Just like that.
Once through and then turned north to sail up in the lee of the Wessels the old girl really picked up her skirts and flew - up to 8.5 knots with the ebbing tide under us and the wind increasing all the time until the maximum wind speed we recorded was 32 knots. Double reefed main and even the smaller genoa reefed. Beam reach on starboard tack - best sail we have had for a long time. It seemed to take no time at all before we were approaching the point south of Guruliya Bay where we intended to anchor. All the other boats around us went through the Hole in the Wall but we remain pleased that we chose the southern route - the thought of approaching a lee shore in high winds and then trying to thread a 64 metre wide needle did not fill us with joy. However, all the boats who went through reported no problems and indeed it's a recognised route through the Wessels so no doubt our concerns were somewhat misplaced. However, we remain pleased that we took the route that we did.
Our friends, Lyn and Chris on "Out of the Blue II" (a Lightwave 38 catamaran) arrived a bit later after going through the Hole. They left Cairns a good 2 weeks later than us and so have made good time. Or we've made bad time! We've waited around in anchorages for weather windows not knowing local conditions and the worst mistake was not going through the Albany Pasasge south of Cape York but this is all due to lack of local knowledge, and in particular lack of knowledge of the weather conditions. We get the GRIBS on a regular basis through Sailmail but they always under estimate wind speeds by at least 20-25%. This has been a hard learning curve, that's for sure. Still as we've said before, not bad for a couple of 66 yr. olds from Godszone on a 1930's vintage designed timber yacht. The boat is difficult sometimes downwind in big quartering seas but generally she has behaved very well. And losing our big genoa has not so far been a problem as the winds have more than compensated for only having the smaller one.
Guruliya Bay is shaped like a boot and we are anchored off a white sand beach at the heel in 20' of water. This morning the wind is down but yesterday coming in was exciting because we had to drop our sails and head straight into a 30 knot wind and associated chop for 2 miles. Still, not for too long and we were glad to get the anchor down. The Wessels are an 80 mile long chain of islands (with few gaps in between) which stretch SW - NE. They provide an effective barrier to the incessant SE wind and sea and have many good anchorages on the western side. However, visually they are disappointing, being just like the rest of this coast - low and flat.
We have had another change of plan now. We were going to do an overnight passage to North Goulburn Is. (190 miles) but we feel the winds are too unpredictable and neither of us relishes the prospect (again) of being caught out there in 30 + knots. So, we have opted instead (along with all the other boats in the vicinity) to coast hop along the Arnhem coast. This has some disadvantages, not least the fact that it will take us 3-4 days longer but we have the time and avoiding the big wind driven seas is a major plus. The coast is very remote and in places not adequately officially surveyed but we feel that with the cruising guides that we have which are quite detailed we should muddle through. Whether the natives are friendly remains to be seen, and there is no landing without a permit - which we don't have. However, we aren't really on a sight seeing trip; our focus is Darwin as soon as possible. Some of the sea areas around Arnhem Land are designated Aboriginal only as well but if we have to stray inside any of these for navigational reasons they'll just have to sue us!! And good luck. Just imagine if any coastal waters around NZ were similarly designated and the outcry. Mind you with legal changes to our constitution (such as it is) currently under covert consideration anything is possible.
With that cheerful thought we shall leave you dear readers yet again.
Cheers and love from us,
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxox
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Once through and then turned north to sail up in the lee of the Wessels the old girl really picked up her skirts and flew - up to 8.5 knots with the ebbing tide under us and the wind increasing all the time until the maximum wind speed we recorded was 32 knots. Double reefed main and even the smaller genoa reefed. Beam reach on starboard tack - best sail we have had for a long time. It seemed to take no time at all before we were approaching the point south of Guruliya Bay where we intended to anchor. All the other boats around us went through the Hole in the Wall but we remain pleased that we chose the southern route - the thought of approaching a lee shore in high winds and then trying to thread a 64 metre wide needle did not fill us with joy. However, all the boats who went through reported no problems and indeed it's a recognised route through the Wessels so no doubt our concerns were somewhat misplaced. However, we remain pleased that we took the route that we did.
Our friends, Lyn and Chris on "Out of the Blue II" (a Lightwave 38 catamaran) arrived a bit later after going through the Hole. They left Cairns a good 2 weeks later than us and so have made good time. Or we've made bad time! We've waited around in anchorages for weather windows not knowing local conditions and the worst mistake was not going through the Albany Pasasge south of Cape York but this is all due to lack of local knowledge, and in particular lack of knowledge of the weather conditions. We get the GRIBS on a regular basis through Sailmail but they always under estimate wind speeds by at least 20-25%. This has been a hard learning curve, that's for sure. Still as we've said before, not bad for a couple of 66 yr. olds from Godszone on a 1930's vintage designed timber yacht. The boat is difficult sometimes downwind in big quartering seas but generally she has behaved very well. And losing our big genoa has not so far been a problem as the winds have more than compensated for only having the smaller one.
Guruliya Bay is shaped like a boot and we are anchored off a white sand beach at the heel in 20' of water. This morning the wind is down but yesterday coming in was exciting because we had to drop our sails and head straight into a 30 knot wind and associated chop for 2 miles. Still, not for too long and we were glad to get the anchor down. The Wessels are an 80 mile long chain of islands (with few gaps in between) which stretch SW - NE. They provide an effective barrier to the incessant SE wind and sea and have many good anchorages on the western side. However, visually they are disappointing, being just like the rest of this coast - low and flat.
We have had another change of plan now. We were going to do an overnight passage to North Goulburn Is. (190 miles) but we feel the winds are too unpredictable and neither of us relishes the prospect (again) of being caught out there in 30 + knots. So, we have opted instead (along with all the other boats in the vicinity) to coast hop along the Arnhem coast. This has some disadvantages, not least the fact that it will take us 3-4 days longer but we have the time and avoiding the big wind driven seas is a major plus. The coast is very remote and in places not adequately officially surveyed but we feel that with the cruising guides that we have which are quite detailed we should muddle through. Whether the natives are friendly remains to be seen, and there is no landing without a permit - which we don't have. However, we aren't really on a sight seeing trip; our focus is Darwin as soon as possible. Some of the sea areas around Arnhem Land are designated Aboriginal only as well but if we have to stray inside any of these for navigational reasons they'll just have to sue us!! And good luck. Just imagine if any coastal waters around NZ were similarly designated and the outcry. Mind you with legal changes to our constitution (such as it is) currently under covert consideration anything is possible.
With that cheerful thought we shall leave you dear readers yet again.
Cheers and love from us,
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxox
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Saturday, 22 June 2013
Tiare Taporo III at Inglis island Lat. 12 degrees 01' S Long. 136 degrees 15' E 22/06
Another quick change of plan. We were going to stay in Elizabeth Bay today but made a last minute decision to leave and come in a SW direction to the west side of Inglis Is. Apart from being held up by a 2 knot tide against us between Cotton Is. and the mainland, it was a pleasant sail because we had a good lee from the mainland. It still blew up to 28 knots!! Surprise surprise. Had a great sail in flat water down the western side of Inglis Is. until we found a reef free bay to anchor in and it is quite comfortable. Such a remote area - it's quite surreal being here. All these islands are Aboriginal territory and you can't go ashore without a permit - which we haven't got - although if one was to go ashore there doesn't appear to be anyone around. However, that's not on our agenda. We are leaving here at first light tomorrow for the southern Wessels (18 miles away) and then sailing NE to Cape Wesesel whence we shall leave for the Goulburn Group. Hopefully we'll catch up with the gang somewhere in the Wessels - they are going through the Hole in the Wall tomorrow. As we've said before, we'll leave those sorts of thrills to them!
Tomorrow we need to be in the passage between Jirragari Is. (just south of the Wessels) and Bumaga Is. by 1000 to catch the ebbing tide through Brown Strait which all being well will waft us north!! This means a departure from here no later than 0600. We have the boat organised with the pole out on the port side ready for the downwind passage tomorrow. The wind seems to be down somewhat so we are hopeful of a more comfortable passage. Still, you can't tell around here as it often blows more strongly during the night and then quietens down until mid morning. But there's no pattern you can rely on.
These are the joys of sailing across the top of Australia.
Please email us with news of home. We miss hearing from you all - just don't hit the reply button!
Cheers and lots of love
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxo
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Tomorrow we need to be in the passage between Jirragari Is. (just south of the Wessels) and Bumaga Is. by 1000 to catch the ebbing tide through Brown Strait which all being well will waft us north!! This means a departure from here no later than 0600. We have the boat organised with the pole out on the port side ready for the downwind passage tomorrow. The wind seems to be down somewhat so we are hopeful of a more comfortable passage. Still, you can't tell around here as it often blows more strongly during the night and then quietens down until mid morning. But there's no pattern you can rely on.
These are the joys of sailing across the top of Australia.
Please email us with news of home. We miss hearing from you all - just don't hit the reply button!
Cheers and lots of love
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxo
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Friday, 21 June 2013
Elizabeth Bay
We are still at Elizabeth Bay as ever since we arrived there has been a strong wind warning and we have been having over 20 knots and sometimes over 25 knots at anchor. The anchorage is sheltered from sea action but not from wind. However, there is a wind driven small chop, so much so that we cannot launch our dinghy because we would get soaked if we tried to go anywhere. So we are getting stir crazy on the boat.
We've had a change of plan for our departure from here. With these strong winds the entrances to the Hole in the Wall and Cumberland Strait are probably quite messy and so we have decided to go south west to Inglis Is. where we would anchor before going up Brown Strait on the ebb. Should work except that the Inglis anchorage only has a mention in one cruising guide to the effect that the NW coast of Inglis "should" offer some reasonable anchorages. It is about 25 more miles but should be good sailing because this way we stay in the lee of islands and mainland all the way to the western side of the Wessels and then we can wait until later this coming week for lighter winds for the dash across the top to the Goulburn Islands. These schemes for getting west without getting too beaten up have been occupying our minds constantly. We were going to leave this morning but the winds are still high so it looks like Sunday which would then put us at the northern end of the Wessels by mid to end next week when we should be able to head west to Goulburn. That's the plan so let's hope it'll work. In the meantime we continue to swing around the anchor! Jean made a Spelt Flour loaf of bread yesterday which came out well and is now in the freezer!
Cheers and love from us..........
Jim and Jean
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We've had a change of plan for our departure from here. With these strong winds the entrances to the Hole in the Wall and Cumberland Strait are probably quite messy and so we have decided to go south west to Inglis Is. where we would anchor before going up Brown Strait on the ebb. Should work except that the Inglis anchorage only has a mention in one cruising guide to the effect that the NW coast of Inglis "should" offer some reasonable anchorages. It is about 25 more miles but should be good sailing because this way we stay in the lee of islands and mainland all the way to the western side of the Wessels and then we can wait until later this coming week for lighter winds for the dash across the top to the Goulburn Islands. These schemes for getting west without getting too beaten up have been occupying our minds constantly. We were going to leave this morning but the winds are still high so it looks like Sunday which would then put us at the northern end of the Wessels by mid to end next week when we should be able to head west to Goulburn. That's the plan so let's hope it'll work. In the meantime we continue to swing around the anchor! Jean made a Spelt Flour loaf of bread yesterday which came out well and is now in the freezer!
Cheers and love from us..........
Jim and Jean
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