Posts
We went ashore today and landed on the beach in the dinghy. Tide was coming in so it was a matter of hauling the dinghy above high tide mark. Apart from the fact that the beach was a brown/gold sand, it reminded us very much of Russell as the beach was similarly steep with a grass verge at the top and a row of shops and cafes across the road. We found a pub and Jean had fig and goat cheese salad and Jim a healthy dose of roast pork belly!! Then tp have a quick look at the island we hopped on a bus which took us to the other (Townsville) side where the ferry terminal is. The island is rocky but very pretty having much tropical vegetation with great sea views. Like Waiheke and Auckland, Magnetic has become a suburb of Townsville with the advent of fast ferries. It has a permanent population of 2,500 many of whom commute to Townsville for work.
We eventually returned to the Tiare where we had a green chicken curry which had been prepared by Jean before she went to NZ. It's now 2200 and time for bed. Beautifully calm tonight unlike last night when it blew quite hard for half the night.
Keep watching this space!!..............
Lots of love from us
J & J (G)
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday, 11 June 2012
Sunday, 10 June 2012
Tiare Taporo III at Magnetic Is. (again) Lat. 19 degrees 07' S Long. 146 degrees 52' E
After a very enjoyable stay in Townsville we came back out to Magnetic Is. this morning in conditions of stark contrast to the gale we had when going into Townsville the other day. There was hardly any wind - 3 knots max. - so we motored the whole way. Very peaceful here in the anchorage and we are so relaxed with having abandoned the plans for Darwin this year that we went to sleep!! All part of the unwinding. It's Queens Birthday Weekend here now so when we go ashore tomorrow it's likely to be crowded. There are around 25 yachts and launches in the anchorage.
Yesterday we had an early start. We said goodbye to our neighbours, Rob and Kim who are taking off on a ship cruise out of Brisbane to Noumea and Port Vila and at 0730 walked into town to catch a bus out to the suburbs (Fulham Rd.) to our osteopath appointments at 0945. That all went well and Jim has some exercises to do for his knees. Gina's pelvis has been straightened up although she is feeling somewhat sore. They said that would take one or two days to dissipate. Then back into town and a very pleasant lunch at an upstairs restaurant in Flinders St. on their balcony overlooking the street.
Townsville is really a lovely city with many very well preserved and attractive old buildings. Lots of history here. The old Burns Philp (BP) building (a 3 story building on an apex corner) is for sale. Very tempting at first glance but the scale of work required would almost certainly send one bankrupt!! This puts Jim in mind of a trading deal which was stitched up - apparently - between BP and his great grandfather whereby they carved up trading rights in the south Pacific in the late 1800's. Donald's got the eastern Pacific (the Cook, Society, Tuamotu and Marquesas Islands) and BP had the rest (Samoa, Tonga, Fiji and PNG plus a few other smaller places). BP definitely had the best of the bargain which was in all likelihood not one negotiated from equal strengths!!
All along the waterfront is an extensive park (Anzac Park) which is leafy and cool. A great buffer between the foreshore and the CBD and then the marina is right there as well. There is also an olympic sized swimming pool and gym which would no doubt be good for exercise when we return. There is an impressive and detailed memorial to the Battle of the Coral Sea in the park and it's sobering to realise that the battle took place about 400 miles NE of Townsville in 1942. The Allies actually lost more ships than the Japanese but such was the scale of the Japanese losses that it effectively stopped any further advance southwards by them.
There is a biplane on floats which operates out of the marina called the "Red Baron" and we thought that when we come back to Townsville in November we might go for a jaunt in her. The pilot sits in the rear cockpit and 2 passengers sit in front.
We'll let you know our impressions of Magnetic Is. tomorrow.
Cheers and love from us.............
Jim and Jean (Gina)
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Yesterday we had an early start. We said goodbye to our neighbours, Rob and Kim who are taking off on a ship cruise out of Brisbane to Noumea and Port Vila and at 0730 walked into town to catch a bus out to the suburbs (Fulham Rd.) to our osteopath appointments at 0945. That all went well and Jim has some exercises to do for his knees. Gina's pelvis has been straightened up although she is feeling somewhat sore. They said that would take one or two days to dissipate. Then back into town and a very pleasant lunch at an upstairs restaurant in Flinders St. on their balcony overlooking the street.
Townsville is really a lovely city with many very well preserved and attractive old buildings. Lots of history here. The old Burns Philp (BP) building (a 3 story building on an apex corner) is for sale. Very tempting at first glance but the scale of work required would almost certainly send one bankrupt!! This puts Jim in mind of a trading deal which was stitched up - apparently - between BP and his great grandfather whereby they carved up trading rights in the south Pacific in the late 1800's. Donald's got the eastern Pacific (the Cook, Society, Tuamotu and Marquesas Islands) and BP had the rest (Samoa, Tonga, Fiji and PNG plus a few other smaller places). BP definitely had the best of the bargain which was in all likelihood not one negotiated from equal strengths!!
All along the waterfront is an extensive park (Anzac Park) which is leafy and cool. A great buffer between the foreshore and the CBD and then the marina is right there as well. There is also an olympic sized swimming pool and gym which would no doubt be good for exercise when we return. There is an impressive and detailed memorial to the Battle of the Coral Sea in the park and it's sobering to realise that the battle took place about 400 miles NE of Townsville in 1942. The Allies actually lost more ships than the Japanese but such was the scale of the Japanese losses that it effectively stopped any further advance southwards by them.
There is a biplane on floats which operates out of the marina called the "Red Baron" and we thought that when we come back to Townsville in November we might go for a jaunt in her. The pilot sits in the rear cockpit and 2 passengers sit in front.
We'll let you know our impressions of Magnetic Is. tomorrow.
Cheers and love from us.............
Jim and Jean (Gina)
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Friday, 8 June 2012
Change of plans
Well. after weeks of examining all angles and trying to decide whether to go on to Darwin or not we have finally come to a decision. For a variety of reasons we have decided to abandon plans for Darwin/Indonesia this year and will instead cruise this immediate area up to Cairns with a view to joining the Louisiade Rally to SE PNG from Yorkey's Knob (just north of Cairns) in September. It is unlikely that we will then carry on north but will instead return to Australia for the wet season - probably Townsville again because we are so impressed by the city. The downside of course is the risk of cyclones during the summer but we have a tentative strategy for dealing with that.
We feel mightily relieved at having made the decision and the release of pressure that has resulted. It was getting more and more daunting getting to Cape York and Darwin on time (16-1700 miles from here in tight reef bound channels in around 40 days). If there's one thing we have learnt, it's that sailing and tight schedules do not mix well and in fact can become dangerous. With regard to sailing this coast, many mariners have felt the difficulty including the Great Navigator himself, James Cook, who very nearly lost his ship on Endeavour Reef north of present day Cairns. Mind you, he didn't have GPS!! Nevertheless, it is difficult for a number of reasons not least of which is the possibility of being weatherbound for some days (if one could find a suitable anchorage) and then being committed to carrying on even though one might be late because it would be a mission to return south against the strong SE trades. For most of our voyaging so far there has been little true relaxation so we feel we owe it to ourselves to become true "cruisers" and when Gina returned from NZ after looking after her sister she was more drained than we realised at the time. So, all in all we definitely feel we have made the correct decision. The last 600 miles from Bundaberg has taught us that this isn't a coast to be trifled with.
Still, we've done a lot of homework including where we could get fuel from a mobile fuel barge because otherwise the opportunities are few and far between north of Cairns. So, we're well prepared for next year or we might go back to the Louisiades in 2013 and then carry on north. This would depend on a number of factors including the ability to get visas and a cruising permit for Indonesia. There is an Indonesian Consulate in Vanimo on the north coast of PNG where this may be possible. More homework needed!! So, lots to consider.
In the meantime we are still in the Breakwater Marina at Townsville and in the morning (Sat.) we both have an appointment to see an osteopath - Jim for his knees and Gina for her hips resulting from when some years ago a cow jumped on top of her!! Age is catching up with us but we will become fitter and rested for the challenges ahead by taking it easier in the meantime.
So, as always watch this space...............
Love from us.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We feel mightily relieved at having made the decision and the release of pressure that has resulted. It was getting more and more daunting getting to Cape York and Darwin on time (16-1700 miles from here in tight reef bound channels in around 40 days). If there's one thing we have learnt, it's that sailing and tight schedules do not mix well and in fact can become dangerous. With regard to sailing this coast, many mariners have felt the difficulty including the Great Navigator himself, James Cook, who very nearly lost his ship on Endeavour Reef north of present day Cairns. Mind you, he didn't have GPS!! Nevertheless, it is difficult for a number of reasons not least of which is the possibility of being weatherbound for some days (if one could find a suitable anchorage) and then being committed to carrying on even though one might be late because it would be a mission to return south against the strong SE trades. For most of our voyaging so far there has been little true relaxation so we feel we owe it to ourselves to become true "cruisers" and when Gina returned from NZ after looking after her sister she was more drained than we realised at the time. So, all in all we definitely feel we have made the correct decision. The last 600 miles from Bundaberg has taught us that this isn't a coast to be trifled with.
Still, we've done a lot of homework including where we could get fuel from a mobile fuel barge because otherwise the opportunities are few and far between north of Cairns. So, we're well prepared for next year or we might go back to the Louisiades in 2013 and then carry on north. This would depend on a number of factors including the ability to get visas and a cruising permit for Indonesia. There is an Indonesian Consulate in Vanimo on the north coast of PNG where this may be possible. More homework needed!! So, lots to consider.
In the meantime we are still in the Breakwater Marina at Townsville and in the morning (Sat.) we both have an appointment to see an osteopath - Jim for his knees and Gina for her hips resulting from when some years ago a cow jumped on top of her!! Age is catching up with us but we will become fitter and rested for the challenges ahead by taking it easier in the meantime.
So, as always watch this space...............
Love from us.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Tuesday, 5 June 2012
Townsville Lat. 19 degrees 15' S 146 degrees 49' E
This morning we arrived into the Breakwater Marina in Townsville. We've decided to make this our refuelling and provisioning stop rather than Cairns. We came across from Magnetic Is. with a 25-30 knot SW right on the nose. So, we just used brute force and increased the revs - water everywhere! We had to get in by 1230 at the latest otherwise would have had to wait for the next tide as the entrance is shallow. The approach was relatively easy apart from concerns about the depth and we were given a warm welcome. No problem berthing and then we went for a walk through the CBD which is right adjacent to the marina. We are very impressed with Townsville; it's an attractive city with some very interesting old buildings. Had a Thai lunch and bought 2 more empty fuel containers to augment our fuel capacity and will be food shopping tomorrow. We met our fellow cruisers, John (whose 70th. birthday it was today) and Chris on the English boat "Sara II" again today. They are leaving tomorrow for Cairns and we may catch up with them again further north.
The anchorage at Magnetic was pleasant in Horseshoe Bay just off a resort but we didn't go ashore as not enough time and the dinghy ride would have been somewhat wet in the small offshore chop set up by the wind which was gusting 25 knots in the anchorage. It would be nice to get some more benign conditions further north. We've been lent a cruising guide by our neighbour here in the marina called "Around the Top" and it is full of useful information. But this coast is far from easy, borne out by a comment from an English yacht quoted in the guide - their comment was "challenging" and they'd sailed halfway around the world. Right now we are about halfway from Bundaberg to Cape York - and there are plenty of challenges ahead. Let's hope we are up to them.
More impressions of Townsville tomorrow.
Cheers and love from us......
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
The anchorage at Magnetic was pleasant in Horseshoe Bay just off a resort but we didn't go ashore as not enough time and the dinghy ride would have been somewhat wet in the small offshore chop set up by the wind which was gusting 25 knots in the anchorage. It would be nice to get some more benign conditions further north. We've been lent a cruising guide by our neighbour here in the marina called "Around the Top" and it is full of useful information. But this coast is far from easy, borne out by a comment from an English yacht quoted in the guide - their comment was "challenging" and they'd sailed halfway around the world. Right now we are about halfway from Bundaberg to Cape York - and there are plenty of challenges ahead. Let's hope we are up to them.
More impressions of Townsville tomorrow.
Cheers and love from us......
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday, 4 June 2012
Tiare Taporo III at Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Is. Lat. 19 degrees 07' S Long. 146 degrees 52' E
Well, today has been a long day, and no mistake!! We were up at 0200 - had some breakfast which at that hour one really doesn't feel like but Gina insisted on feeding the Captain and crew!! At 0300 we weighed anchor which was encrusted in the usual mud but the deck hose, foredeck light and torch took care of that. Leaving the anchorage was easy - nothing to run into and the course was 340 T to clear Cape Bowling Green 30 miles NW. We hoisted the single reefed main in the dark and set off under power to make water and power - as usual!! The watermaker is working well and long may it do so. So different from the aftermath of the Opua cowboys.
The wind was WSW - light at first but then increasing to 25 knots in spite of an easterly having been forecast. The wind increased in strength just south of Cape Bowling Green (a nondescript low lying peninsula jutting out very inconveniently into our course north!!). We reefed the main down to its 2nd. reef during the gale - exciting being on the foredeck in those conditions - and reefed the genoa down to 30%. Then, with the staysail as well we sailed just as fast but more quietly onwards. Then we were awakened by the alarm on the AIS alerting us to a ship heading north on a converging course with us. Jim waited until he had finished his spaghetti and ham before calling them on the VHF to ask whether they had seen us - they hadn't, surprise surprise. However, they were very good and altered course 5 degrees to starboard to give us a reassuringly wide berth.
By then we were in a full gale and hard on the wind on port tack. As usual the old girl ("Tiare" that is!!) revelled in it and plowed on throwing water all over the place. We had turned off the iron sail and were doing at least 6 knots when annoyingly the wind started dropping so on with the iron sail once more. On an ocean passage one wouldn't do that but we had a deadline to get to Magnetic Is. in daylight. The wind came and went - we had some good sailing. It was 77 miles from the anchorage under Cape Upstart to Magnetic Island and we arrived into a lovely calm anchorage in Horseshoe Bay around 1600 so took 13 hours for the passage. We took turns sleeping so that we didn't both fall totally asleep. The other thing which you might find surprising is that it was cold for most of the trip. We had our wet weather gear on to ward off the spray as well as to stay warm. Once the sun came up (beautiful dawn to see) things warmed up a bit but not to the same extent as NZ in the summer. The other thing we should mention is the moon - the moon took on the same orange hue as the rising sun as it set which was very spectacular. It was a full moon too.
All in all a very satisfying day - although wearying, especially at our time of life. Not a few glasses of wine later and something to eat and we are thinking about going into Townsville instead of Cairns for our final provisioning before setting off for Cape York and Darwin but will let you all know.
Lots of love from us.............
Jim and Gina (Jean)
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
The wind was WSW - light at first but then increasing to 25 knots in spite of an easterly having been forecast. The wind increased in strength just south of Cape Bowling Green (a nondescript low lying peninsula jutting out very inconveniently into our course north!!). We reefed the main down to its 2nd. reef during the gale - exciting being on the foredeck in those conditions - and reefed the genoa down to 30%. Then, with the staysail as well we sailed just as fast but more quietly onwards. Then we were awakened by the alarm on the AIS alerting us to a ship heading north on a converging course with us. Jim waited until he had finished his spaghetti and ham before calling them on the VHF to ask whether they had seen us - they hadn't, surprise surprise. However, they were very good and altered course 5 degrees to starboard to give us a reassuringly wide berth.
By then we were in a full gale and hard on the wind on port tack. As usual the old girl ("Tiare" that is!!) revelled in it and plowed on throwing water all over the place. We had turned off the iron sail and were doing at least 6 knots when annoyingly the wind started dropping so on with the iron sail once more. On an ocean passage one wouldn't do that but we had a deadline to get to Magnetic Is. in daylight. The wind came and went - we had some good sailing. It was 77 miles from the anchorage under Cape Upstart to Magnetic Island and we arrived into a lovely calm anchorage in Horseshoe Bay around 1600 so took 13 hours for the passage. We took turns sleeping so that we didn't both fall totally asleep. The other thing which you might find surprising is that it was cold for most of the trip. We had our wet weather gear on to ward off the spray as well as to stay warm. Once the sun came up (beautiful dawn to see) things warmed up a bit but not to the same extent as NZ in the summer. The other thing we should mention is the moon - the moon took on the same orange hue as the rising sun as it set which was very spectacular. It was a full moon too.
All in all a very satisfying day - although wearying, especially at our time of life. Not a few glasses of wine later and something to eat and we are thinking about going into Townsville instead of Cairns for our final provisioning before setting off for Cape York and Darwin but will let you all know.
Lots of love from us.............
Jim and Gina (Jean)
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Sunday, 3 June 2012
Tiare Taporo III at anchor at Cape Upstart Lat. 19 degrees 43' S Long. 147 degrees 45' E
Today was a long day. We left the anchorage at Little Jonah Bay this morning at 0500 in the dark and followed the chartplotter out of the anchorage. However, soon the dawn came up to herald a lovely sunny day. First sun we've seen for over a week!! Very little wind though so we motorsailed (as usual!!) until a respectable breeze came up from the WSW - the forecast was for easterlies. Anyway, it was sailable and we were hard on the wind on port tack doing about 4.5 knots. We had around a knot of tide against us but we were doing ok. Full main, genoa and staysail. However, the wind dropped away to almost zero later so we started the iron sail once more. We sailed past the Abbot Point coal loading conveyor with one ship alongside and 3 waiting at anchor. The wind came back but was dead on the nose so was not much help. We approached Cape Upstart at last and sailed the 5 miles or so to round the cape. Quite spectacular with large rock outcrops but not as spectacular as Whangarei Heads!! And quite shallow of the end of the cape (30-40') - again most unlike Cape Brett or Whangarei Heads. All in all it was a pleasant day but a long one - 55 nautical miles in all.
We had some concerns that with the strange and unforecasted wind we were getting that the anchorage might be somewhat uncomfortable but when we came around the point it was delightfully calm. There are beach baches all along the coast stretching back to the mainland and it is a delightful away from it all spot. Although again we can't help comparing with NZ and here in the summer you have the marine stingers (one of which is lethal and almost certainly would kill you). Even going ashore in the dinghy and stepping out into the shallows is dangerous unless you are suitably clad. Then there are the crocodiles and although we haven't seen one yet, they are around. Mostly in tidal creeks where there are mangroves but they have even been seen out on the islands on the Barrier Reef so you can't guarantee anywhere is safe. So, the bottom line is no swimming!!
Early to bed tonight as tomorrow is an even longer day - 70 miles to Magnetic Is. just off Townsville. We are hoping for better winds. We'll be leaving around midnight tonight - 30 miles to Cape Bowling Green and then another 40 to Magnetic. We are looking forward to seeing John and Chris off "Sara II" when we get there.
Dinner's ready at 1700 (right now) so we can get some sleep before starting off again.
Watch this space..........
Love from us,
Jim and Gina (Jean)
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We had some concerns that with the strange and unforecasted wind we were getting that the anchorage might be somewhat uncomfortable but when we came around the point it was delightfully calm. There are beach baches all along the coast stretching back to the mainland and it is a delightful away from it all spot. Although again we can't help comparing with NZ and here in the summer you have the marine stingers (one of which is lethal and almost certainly would kill you). Even going ashore in the dinghy and stepping out into the shallows is dangerous unless you are suitably clad. Then there are the crocodiles and although we haven't seen one yet, they are around. Mostly in tidal creeks where there are mangroves but they have even been seen out on the islands on the Barrier Reef so you can't guarantee anywhere is safe. So, the bottom line is no swimming!!
Early to bed tonight as tomorrow is an even longer day - 70 miles to Magnetic Is. just off Townsville. We are hoping for better winds. We'll be leaving around midnight tonight - 30 miles to Cape Bowling Green and then another 40 to Magnetic. We are looking forward to seeing John and Chris off "Sara II" when we get there.
Dinner's ready at 1700 (right now) so we can get some sleep before starting off again.
Watch this space..........
Love from us,
Jim and Gina (Jean)
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Saturday, 2 June 2012
Tiare Taporo III at Little Jonah Bay Lat. 20 degrees 05' S Long. 148 degrees 32' E
Well, we're finally on our way. We left Airlie at 0730 and motorsailed most of the way north towards Bowen. At one stage we had the genoa poled out but the wind died again. Such a contrast to the weather we have been having - over 30 knots some of the time and today 13 was the maximum and then only briefly. Our intention was to go through the Gloucester Passage for an overnight anchorage on the Bowen side of the passage but towards the far end of the passage we went aground on a falling tide (!) so the cruising guide is incorrect when it says deep draught vessels will have no problem. Fortunately with the engine at full ahead we managed to get off the sandbank but it was a hairy 30 seconds or so. There's not much time on a falling tide. So we backtracked through the passage and anchored on the southern side of the bay formed by Gloucester Is. and George Point. Only a very short passage today to get back into the swing of things but we will be heading for Upstart Bay tomorrow - about 55 miles. We'll be leaving here at 5. Then probably direct for Magnetic Is. - another 70 miles where we should arrive on Mon/Tues.
At some point we're going to have to do some overnight sailing but that'll be north of Magnetic. We're feeling a bit optimistic again that we can make Darwin in time and really we need to because the prospect of a summer up here in cyclone country doesn't appeal and neither does an 1800 mile nonstop passage from northern PNG to Borneo. So, we're pressing on. Looking forward to remaking the acquaintance of boats we met further south as we go north.
Cheers and love to everyone
Jim and Gina
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
At some point we're going to have to do some overnight sailing but that'll be north of Magnetic. We're feeling a bit optimistic again that we can make Darwin in time and really we need to because the prospect of a summer up here in cyclone country doesn't appeal and neither does an 1800 mile nonstop passage from northern PNG to Borneo. So, we're pressing on. Looking forward to remaking the acquaintance of boats we met further south as we go north.
Cheers and love to everyone
Jim and Gina
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)