Days 52 - 61 July 18th. - July 27th.

8 days of doings...........
Well, again so much has happened it's again difficult to know where to start, especially trying to recall detail of the previous week! We are starting to get into apartment viewing in earnest. The concept of living in an apartment in a high rise building not so long ago was one that we would have rejected out of hand, but here in Medellin it constitutes the majority of residential dwellings, and while it might be nice to buy a hacienda on a bit of land outside the city, we have both done that in the past and we are definitely past all that at our age! In 2012 Medellin was voted the Most Innovative City in the World and it has a great public transport system. There is an above ground Metro which runs from the northern outskirts to the southern with a few branch lines east and west. There is a cable car system and a moving escalator to some of the poorer communas high on the hillsides above the city. We haven't used any of these facillities on this trip as our time seems to have been taken up with activities in the city and immediate environs. There is a relatively new southern suburb called Sabaneta which is up and coming in the apartment market so we decided that it also must be on our to do list.
We went there on the 20th. which is Colombia's Independence Day and of course a national holiday. Sabaneta was jumping with city visitors and new high rise apartment buildings are sprouting everywhere. Mostly up fairly steep hillsides which are not really our scene because walking as we get older would probably become somewhat of a challenge. However, we found one new development which was not even started, but had a sales office and a mockup apartment. Called "Bangkok" which we found somewhat ironic! An impressive design but there was open farmland next to the site and we could envisage in a fairly short time other blocks being built which would definitely spoil the rural views. We had read about a well known restaurant called El Doctora and after a bit of a walk and a search we found it up a small rise and around a few corners! It was great and we had grilled local caught trout and a bottle of Argentinian Rose. Wonderful and we had finally seen Sabaneta.
We found ourselves getting more and more serious about the idea of permanent living in Medellin as time went on. We were glad we had rented an apartment for our stay because it gave us much more insight into everything involved with living there. One thing that has made an impression and that's the absolute necessity for us to become reasonably proficient in Spanish. There are a few universities and colleges which offer Spanish courses for expats and that is probably how we'd tackle it. That combined with being immersed in the language through living there, should have us fluent in no time!
We made great use of the local taxis because as we've said before they are so cheap. One can go across the city for less than USD5. You couldn't drive a car for that and there are no parking hassles. Then you just hail another.
We have opened an account with a financial broker to facilitate bringing funds into Colombia and notifying the Colombian Central Bank of same. This has to be done correctly otherwise they start asking awkward questions about origin of the funds and endless queries about the use of the funds and all in Spanish which we are not sufficiently proficient in yet. We have made contact with a very good estate agent and a solicitor and we've even given the solicitor a Power of Attorney so she can act for us on our instructions without the necessity for us being there.
Medellin is in a valley which runs north and south. The Medellin River also runs in the same direction and bisects the city. We were staying in Belem/Fatima which is to the NW of the city but still in the valley. We wouldn't want to buy there though because, although pleasantly leafy, it's not sufficiently close to the life of the city - restaurants, cafes etc. Just to the north is Laureles which is an older suburb and does have some life. However, the apartment buidings are typically 20 or so years old and while we saw 2 apartments we could consider, they don't usually have pools or gyms or usually any parking underground or anywhere. A pool and gym we feel are essential for continuing fitness at our time of life - or indeed any time for that matter. However, Laureles is flat which is an advantage for walking. Then on the other side of the river (east side) is the Parnhell of Medellin - El Poblado. Lovely, leafy and full of fabulous eateries and again not expensive by our standards. But it's hilly which would become a problem and the real estate is also expensive by Medellin standards. Usually a starting price of USD250,000 (750,000,000 Colombian Pesos!) for a pretty good 3 bedroom apartment in a newish building with pool, gym, underground parking etc. Armed concierge onsite 24/7!
However, immediately to the south of El Poblado lies the equally leafy suburb of Envigado which is a little undulating but much less than Poblado and also within easy walking distance of a universidad (university) for Spanish lessons, supermarkets (supermercados) and restaurants/cafes. You can see how many words are similar to English which often helps to understand the gist of things, and also French (which Jim has a knowledge of) is often very similar. Not sure yet whether that's a hindrance or asset in learning Spanish! But we digress - again!
We looked at quite a few apartments in Envigado and finally found a 3 bedroom (2.5 bathrooms) in an 8 year old building - Jardines de la Maria. Substantially cheaper than El Poblado prices. The building has a good swimmable pool and a gym. The apartment has a good sized balcony. No heating or air conditioning because in Medellin at 5,000' and at only 6 degrees north of the Equator you need neither. Hence much lower utility bills. In fact windows and French doors stay open all day and night and it's beautiful ambient temperature. The typical temperature pattern is around 16-17C until about 9am when it starts going up to about 27C in the early evening - then starts reducing again throughout the night. And NO mozzies or midges. Again we digress - heavens above!!
The apartment is vacant and in impeccable condition. Just over 1,000 sq. ft. The only physical alteration we would need to make is to remove the upper half of the wall between the kitchen and living room to open the kitchen to that room and create a sit up bar and/or serving counter. The balcony is off the living room. We would stay on the boat until she sold but in the meantime we can let the apartment at (even allowing for a 70% occupancy) a better rate than generally available through conventional investments. Of course, compared with other investments, property is illiquid which is its Achilles heel. And with more risk because of exposure to the Colombian Peso which is largely driven by the oil price as petroleum accounts for 45% of Colombia's exports at present. But, from all that you read, it seems that the overall trend for oil is up.
But the bottom line is that ultimately one needs somewhere to live. And, having come from New Zealand, we should be well used to exchange rate fluctuations - the Kiwi has been as low as 32 US cents in the early 2000's to 88 US cents about 18 months ago! And no-one in NZ ever seems to think of the value of their own properties in global (USD) terms, so why should we in Colombia?
One slightly negative comment we must make about Medellin is the preponderance of red brick. 90% of buildings - public and private - are built of this material and it also often comprises paved areas as well. The effect is, in spite of any innovative architecture, a cloying effect where one can feel visually surrounded. It became a standing joke between us and our estate agent and Jim was often heard muttering about getting a paintbrush and a very long ladder to paint these 30 story buildings! At least we're well versed with paint brushes, living on a classic wooden yacht as we do. However, it was refreshing to note that "our" apartment building is relieved of too much brick with interspersed plastered panels.
While all this was going on we very regretfully had to finally pack our bags and leave Medellin to return back to Miami. We had an early flight (0730) out of Medellin on July 25th. so we arranged for a taxi to collect us from Zojo Gardens at 0400! In practical terms this meant that we hardly had any sleep the night before but we both felt quite good. The weather had suddenly turned quite cold and it was lightly raining. For the first time this trip we needed our Kathmandu jackets bought in Whangarei all those years ago before we left NZ in 2011. The airport is about 45 kms from the city and involves a steep climb for another 1,000' or so. Ears popping all the way and our driver was a bit too gung ho around the rain slicked bends for our liking! But we got there - that was the main thing. All very smooth, except that as usual we had asked for exit row seats for the extra legroom. However, when it came time to board, Avianca would not let us sit there as we didn't speak Spanish! No doubt in case we had to open the doors and deploy the chutes. Never mind, the legroom was OK as it happened. We had one stop at Baranquilla which is a city on the Colombian Caribbean coast. We saw more beautiful farmland on the way (only about 1 hour). Landed and then had to go through security again but this time had to remove shoes and belts and be cross-examined re our visa waivers (ESTA'S) for the US. Not worth Avianca's while to have to deport us back to Columbia! Had 2 hours on the ground at Baranquilla and then took off for the 2 hour flight to Miami. US EST is 1 hour ahead of Colombia. We flew over Jamaica and Cuba which we were able to see quite clearly and then out near the Bahamas before approaching Miami from seawards. Saw some familiar waters around Miami as we came in at just after 1430. Perry picked us up and soon we were in the new house. Definitely an improvement on the previous one and also on a canal. And a swimming pool. By then we were feeling somewhat jaded so after an early BBQ dinner it was bed time. Great to see everyone and the children, Carter and Nash.
Next day a quiet day but there was a trip to Wholefoods where we stocked up on some wine and food. Apart from that we sent some time emailing our Medellin agent and generally working on the detail of the property purchase - now confirmed.
The boys here have their moments as under 3's are wont to do, but generally they are delightful as always and Granny Jean is in her element. Carter can't quite get his tongue around Granny Jean so calls her "Gajean". Perry is busy organising shelves here and there and erecting the fence along the canal and around the pool - very necessary with the young gentlemen around!
And now it's today. Received the momentous news that the apartment was a done deal. BREAKING NEWS - Only a few hours ago from writing this we had confirmation that our offer for the apartment at Jardines de la Maria had been accepted. Albeit at a slightly higher price than our offer. Suffice it to say that the price is less than the equivalent of USD150,000 at current exchange rates. We felt that this was acceptable in comparing all that we had seen. So, the start of a big change for us, but nothing will of course change in a practical sense until our lovely old lady is sold. We will simply lease the apartment in the meantime.
Hope all is well with everyone - lotsaluv from us............
Con mucho amor desde nostros
Jim and Jean
Miami
Florida

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