Days 46 - 51 July 12th. - 17th. Guatape and El Poblado (Medellin)

Hi again to everyone and as always hoping you are all in the pink!
First we must refer to two recent posts from the NZ Herald we have put on our website. One is an article by Dame Ann Salmond lamenting the growth of neoliberalism in the western world including NZ since the mid 1980's. We agree with her analysis, but of course one should read and form one's own conclusions. Similarly the one about Chinese expansion into the South China Sea.
We have also just read that the NZ Government (and also possibly the Aussie) are considering an anti dumping complaint against China for selling cheap (and in some cases substandard) steel into our markets. Some of this steel is being used for a major motorway project in Auckland involving a major intersection with flyovers etc.! The Chinese have subtly told some major NZ exporters (Fonterra and Zespri apparently) to lobby to can the enquiry or else they will introduce restrictions on NZ's exports to China. This is in spite of the PM denying any knowledge! China is getting heavy all round and NZ and Australia would do well to realise that China is no friend, and potentially a serious enemy if things get totally out of control in the S. China Sea. Then what would Russia do. Putin is an enigma and may well see an opportunity to attack America thus creating a 2nd. front. That is a scenario that doesn't bear thinking about.
China also rightly sees the US sponsored Trans Pacific Partnership Agreement as a threat to their own commercial interests so will regard any signatory to that agreement as working against those interests. Where does that leave NZ as an ethusiastic signatory to the TPPA and with all its China trade at risk? Still, with any luck and regardless of who becomes President of the US, the TPPA will be canned - certainly by Trump and almost certainly by Clinton who has expressed distaste for it, and of course she is also beholden to powerful industry lobby groups.
There, that's enough tub thumping for now!

Tuesday July 12th. A relatively quiet day before our foray into the Colombian countryside to Guatape. For the first time we visited a major shopping mall which is only about 15 minutes walk from our apartment. It was very instructive as we looked at everything from computers to fridges, to clothing and childrens' toys. The overall impression was that prices aren't especially cheap for appliances but not excessively expensive either. Clothing and local non imported food items are all cheaper. All part of our education process for possible living in Medellin.
Had a mall-type lunch which was only average as mall lunches usually are and returned to the apartment to get organised for the morrow.

Wednesday July 13th. We wanted to leave early to Guatape to give us the maximum time there so we managed to get ourselves to the Terminal del Norte by taxi in order to catch an early bus. Taxis here are SO CHEAP!! We were taken from the taxi through the terminal to the ticket office (24,000 Pesos for 2 - NZD12) and then to the bus itself. Such efficiency which we could never have emulated on our own. The bus was a far from new 20 or so seater Chevrolet and was noisy but as we had front seats the legroom was OK - and it was only 2 hours. The first part of the trip was a long grinding climb out of Medellin in a NE direction. Guatape is at least 1,000' higher than Medellin so the trip was mostly a climb all the way but that initial climb was by far the steepest. The road was good however, being 2 lanes in each direction but closer to Guatape we turned off the main drag onto a winding single lane road such as masquerades as State Highway 1 in NZ - especially in Northland! We are used to these things. Overall the trip was very pleasant and we were interested to observe some of the Colombian countryside. Quite steep and difficult country to farm or cultivate but we saw many vegetable growing operations - all immaculate and on what seemed like impossible hillsides. We stopped briefly at El Penol to let off some enthusiastic backpackers who were going to climb the famous rock which rises to just over 7,000' above sea level and there are 740 zigzag steps to get to the top. We didn't attempt it - what with Jim's knees and Jean's occasional breathing difficulty which is of course exacerbated by altitude.
Very soon we arrived in Guatape which is a very picturesque little town on the edge of the manmade lake - formed by the construction of a hydro dam in the 1970's. There is a town square around which are hostels and restaurants and shops all decorated in many pastel colours. Very lovely. After a much needed breakfast of scrambled eggs and sausages we duly walked around until we made contact with the owner of the Tomate Cafe Hostel where we were staying. We had our own room and bathroom for 70,000 Pesos (NZD34). It was in a stand alone small building on the 2nd. floor with a balcony overlooking the town square. We then asked about a boat trip on the lake and that was organised for 90,000 Pesos! The trip was fascinating although the lake itself was disappointing as the hydro dam had been allowing more water to exit the lake due to a lack of rainfall and the water level was about 20' below normal. The area immediately above the lake level was quite ugly with just exposed red clay. However, we obtained a good impression of the many arms of the lake which obviously had been small valleys prior to the lake's creation. We passed a largely destroyed and burnt out concrete structure which had been one of the notorious drug lord, Pablo Escobar's houses. Apparently as the Colombian Government was closing in on Escobar, the Colombian Air Force bombed the house (they don't mess about!), as it was believed that he was in residence but the intelligence was faulty! However, they did get him eventually at the age of 44 in a gun battle in Medellin. He had acquired something of a "Robin Hood" reputation, especially among the poor who were beneficiaries of his largesse. He also built hospitals and schools. However, he and his organisation also murdered 600 Police officers and over 2,000 judges and politicians. At one time he was one of the most wealthy individuals in the world and shipped many tons of Cocaine into the USA. It was a ruthless rotten business characterised by bribery and murder. And of course it was the main cause of Colombia's reputation for being probably the most dangerous country in the world. Not now though, although it's only around 20 years since there was any headway being made against the drug trade. However, Colombia has been transformed and its economy is booming. Hence our interest in living here in the future.
We also visited the site of the drowned village of Penol where the church spire has been extended to show above water. On shore there is a surviving building which houses a museum of sorts with photos and other artifacts of the village before it was inundated for the hydro dam in 1978. We returned to Guatape and had a bit of a rest before sallying forth once more for dinner. After a bit of walking around we eventually found a restaurant open for business. The others seemed to be engrossed in a TV play of a soccer match with not much thought being given to food. We had BBQ'd meat which they cook in the open on the verandah where all the punters sit. Quite good but nothing to really rave about. Lots of beef (Carne) being cooked. It rained during the night and it was also quite cold for our tropical bodies! We needed the thick blanket on the bed which was supplied. Guatape is 6,000' above sea level and so is noticeably colder than Medellin at 5,000'.

Thursday July 14th. We slept well all snug under our large blanket and were awakened around 0530 by the church bells calling the faithful to morning Mass. Closely followed by Ave Maria broadcast over the church loudspeakers! Very reminiscent of the Moslem Immam calling the faithful which we have experienced in Indonesia and Malaysia. In fact it brought back unpleasant memories of the enforced time we spent at Kupang in Indonesian Timor, but the strains of Ave Maria did sound much better! Jim sat out on our balcony clad only in his thin dressing gown to experience the town awakening and the odd straggler entering the church, but soon had to vacate back inside as the temperature was still somewhat chilly.
Found somewhere for breakfast and met a Colombian family who lived in Kansas City, USA! Redneck country but they are not Trump fans! Then a long walk around the back streets all decorated in the same way. A lovely charming little town. Also met the manager of the local information centre who spoke excellent English and had lived in Brisbane with a NZ family there while he had been studying at university. Such a small world.
Said goodbye reluctantly to Guatape in time to catch the 1530 bus back to Medellin. The trip was good as the bus was much more modern and it was all downhill! Then a 15 minute taxi ride back to our apartment (Zojo Island in Belen).

Friday July 15th. We had arranged to meet a real estate agent (Henry Emans of First American Realty) in El Poblado at 1030 which was a bit of a stretch as we slept in after the Guatape adventure! However, we were on time at a pre-arranged restaurant. Aforesaid restaurant was full with people waiting so we went around the corner and found another excellent establishment where we had beautiful scrambled eggs and bacon and Avocado. We spent 2 hours with Henry and had an extremely wide ranging discussion. They are offering a complete in-house service with immigration advice (types of visas), and tax and legal advice. We have arranged to meet him again early this coming week. We then walked around the restaurant precinct of El Poblado and have never seen so many delectable looking restaurants in one small area. El Poblado is a little hilly and well shaded with many trees. Quite beautiful. We said it reminded us of Parnhell in Auckland! We eventually found somewhere another 2 hours later and, although weren't particularly hungry, we were seduced by their menu. We decided to have entrees only as they have a heading "starters" on the menu. So Jim opted for potato noisettes with sour cream and cheese sauce and Jean had a vegetable soup. And 2 beers (Club Columbia Dorada) each! However, "starters" here do not mean entrees. The noisettes were full size and so we shared them. Then we really rolled out of El Poblado! Finally hailed a taxi and would have fallen into it but they are tiny Hyundai or Chev or Kia pedal cars so entering and exiting is always somewhat fraught, especially if you have long legs. The Chevs are the worst so we try to avoid them.

Saturday July 16th. Stayed in our apartment for the morning and then later walked to the local Exito Supermarket. Not a very exciting day but we needed a quiet one. Stocked up on a bit of food, had a coffee and a cake (!) at a coffee bar in the mall and walked home again. Had marinated steak with rice and brocolli for dinner but the steak was a disappointment, even though it had marinated for 6 hours. We still haven't found a good source of fresh meat or fish, but no doubt such places exist.

Sunday July 17th. (Day 51 - 73% of our total time away from Langkawi has already passed - amazing). It seems only like yesterday that we were leaving our lovely old girl in the RLYC marina. We had an early start to visit the weekly Farmers' Market at Parque la Presidenta in Avenida Poblado. They have these markets every day in Medellin but always in different areas of the city. Got a pedalcar taxi again and 8000 Pesos (NZD4)later we were there. Not as big as the Whangarei market but just as much variety and the food so fresh and it doesn't appear to be "commercial" in appearance - it's supposed to be all organic. Certainly we found a slug on the lettuce when we got home again! The whole market was a picture and everyone so friendly as always. We met a delightful young Colombian couple who sold a vege spread for crackers etc. Not Jim's thing but Jean enjoyed it and they spoke very good English so we had a good conversation. She helped us with buying some corn enchiladas with beef and chicken and we sat on a bench and filled our faces! Then 2 large paper cups of Passionfruit juice and pulp which were absolutely delicious. Everything tastes so good and so reasonably priced. We sampled some Blueberry wine which was very palatable but a bit sweet with a strong purple/red colour. Bought some Blueberry "marmalada" - also sweet but will be good on toast. Then home again in a pedalcar to get ready for the coming week which will be busy as always happens when departure looms. More meetings with a lawyer and the estate agent to view some properties and we also want to visit some outlying suburbs - Envigado, Itagui and Santa Elena.
More to come in due course!
Cheers and love from us..............
Jim and Jean
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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