En mouillage a lat. 20 degrees 04.673' S long. 164 degrees 01.244' E

Hi,
Another update - we are now at anchor just outside the eastern entrance to Boatpass which is a non navigable channel (certainly for deep draught yachts)between the top of the mainland of New Caledonia and islands to the north. We left our anchorage on the west coast around 8 this morning and sailed briskly north in a gusty sou' wester until we came to Ile Taanlo right at the tip of NC. We have now been joined by a French boat "Lifou" and all 3 of us anchored off the northern end of Taanlo in the strong wind. "Lifou" and "Giselle" decided to go ashore to introduce themselves to the local chief and they were going to stay at anchor there tonight but Gina and Jim on "Tiare Taporo III" wanted to press on so we said we'd see them in a few days maybe out at the Loyalties and we weighed anchor and set sail. We had a few shoal areas to negotiate but after that and around the top we were heading south again into the teeth of the SW which at times was up to 24 knots. It's a point of sailing Tiare just loves and we romped along with reefed genoa, staysail and reefed main. Up to 6.8 knots with scuppers just under!! We only had about 6 miles to go and it was over all too quickly. Lovely sailing in flat water - mainly 60-70 feet deep and for once no near reefs to worry about. When we were close to the anchorage we doused the sails and cautiously motored in. We are anchored in a cleft in the fringing reef about 200 metres wide so plenty of room for us. Then we saw that the other two must have changed their minds as we spied them on the horizon heading our way.
We could see a beautiful white sand beach with apparently a very good restaurant at a local Gite (guest house). So, it was with expectations of food and wine that we launched the dinghy and headed shorewards only to be very frustrated by the fringing coral reef which looked menacingly shallow and threatening to inflatable dinghies and outboard motors. And as the tide was going out the prospect of returning in the dark with even shallower water didn't appeal at all so we reluctantly returned to the yacht and had dinner on board. "Giselle" and "Lifou" did make it ashore but we felt we made the right decision for us and we will go ashore on the morrow on a rising tide!!
All in all a very satisfying and enjoyable day with some great sailing (all too rare usually!) and we are now heading south. This is the northernmost tip of mainland NC and then we will visit Baie de Pam where there are some interesting old nickel mine workings and then Balade where Capt. Cook landed in 1774 when he discovered New Caledonia, which he then named after the Scottish landscape which NC reminded him of. After that Hienghene which will probably be our jumping off point for Ouvea in the Loyalties.
Today we have sailed 25 miles so tomorrow we'll spend mainly ashore before resuming our journey of discovery. It is certainly challenging and not a little stressful visiting places by boat where one has never been before and especially navigating around coral reefs in the lagoon environment. But it is great to have been able to circumnavigate mainly inside the barrier reef where water depths vary between 80 and 10 feet! Less if you try to cross a reef rather than go around. We are relying heavily on our chartplotter programme with Gina on the laptop calling instructions to Jim on the helm whenever we are getting close to something. Mark II eyeballs are also invaluable and fortunately when the sun is shining on the clear water it is easy to see shoals and reefs. Not so good on overcast days but the French charts and the buoyage system are accurate - unlike many of the Pacific Islands. All new and very good experience for us.
That's it for now folks - as always watch this space!!
Cheers and love from us
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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