Circumnavigation complete!!

We weighed anchor at Yate at 0545 and managed to pull up a very heavy length of wire hawser with it. Nearly lost the boathook getting it off and would have if it hadn't been for our neighbours on a French boat who were passing in their dinghy. Managed to negotiate the river without contacting the bottom again, hoisted the reefed main and headed out to sea. Very rough in the entrance but it calmed down once through there and we adopted our usual method of dealing with strong on the nose conditions where we needed to get to the other end as soon as possible. So we motorsailed tacks all the way down to the Passe de la Havannah. Wind had been forecast to be from around 110 degrees but reverted to 130 degrees which was exactly the direction we were going!! We're getting used to this now but this is the home stretch.
It is necessary to enter Havannah on an incoming tide otherwise there is a wind against tide effect and it can be dangerously turbulent with ocean swells meeting the current. Low tide was 1000 so we were trying to time our arrival for no earlier than then. However, we were about half an hour earlier than that although in our ignorance we thought that shouldn't matter - but it did!! There was an extensive breaking reef to starboard and a large area of big waves rearing up and breaking to port. This latter as a result of the tide effect. However, there was what looked like an area of relative calm between the two so we headed for that. The chartplotter was invaluable in keeping us away from dangers with Gina calling out warnings if we strayed too far from our course. We didn't strike breaking seas thank goodness but did have enormous swells coming up behind us being forced up by the current. Our speed over ground dropped from 6 knots to 2.5 and we had the engine at increased revs just to maintain that speed. We seemed to be standing still and it was a great effort just to steer and stay on course. It was all a bit alarming and if we ever come through there again it will be with the tide whether at full ebb or flood!
Still we managed it eventually and the current gradually changed in our favour. Suddenly conditions calmed down and we also had the wind with us for the first time since the top of the island - almost unbelievable. We deployed the genoa for the first time in several days and romped along up the Canal de Havannah. Sheer bliss. The wind strengthened (as it does!) and we came past the Prony entrance and into the Canal Woodin in great style. As we did so we crossed the line of our earlier course into Prony and so COMPLETED THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION. YAY - WHAT AN ACHIEVEMENT FOR NOVICE CRUISERS!!! It was so enjoyable sailing downwind compared to what we've had with tacks and putting the bow under regularly. We've decided that in future we're not going anywhere unless we can be guaranteed downwind conditions!!!
While coming through Woodin we saw another turtle on the surface and he (or she) raised his (or her) head out of the water to examine these interlopers. That's the 3rd we have seen on our circumnavigation. There is something so peaceful and calming about them - just slowly proceeding on their unhurried way. Humans could learn a lot from them we reckon.
We had decided to spend our last night in Baie de la Tortue on the western side of Ile Ouen because we had read about a hotel there owned by a gentleman who was very kindly disposed towards boaties. So we altered course to port and sailed hard on the wind with the reefed main and staysail and were still doing 6 knots. A good boisterous sail to round out our day and reluctantly 8 hours and about 40 miles after we started at Yate we dropped the sails and motored into the anchorage which was very sheltered in these conditions. We dropped anchor and then after a bit of a rest went ashore in the dinghy. However, it was a rerun of the situation on Ilot Casy at Prony. The hotel was not operating and had all but been been abandoned apart from some obvious ongoing caretaking. A beautiful idyllic spot - even better than Casy but abandoned. So terribly sad and such a waste to see what had obviously been a property with so much expended on it.
In going back over the notes in our Cruising Guide it seems to us that much the same has happened to many villages and towns, particularly on the east coast. Facilities which had been there in the past simply weren't there any more. Part of the reason is probably that the nickel loading facilities are being concentrated at fewer more modern ports where the nickel is now being processed beyond a mere ore stag. No doubt another contributory factor has also been the world financial recession which has badly affected tourism - particularly the previously free spending Americans.
Well now a quiet night ready for the final 24 miles to Noumea tomorrow. Here's hoping they have a berth for us so we can top up our water and have much needed showers!!!
More to come...................
Love from us xoxoxox

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