Posts
----- Original Message -----
To: "2XS - Peter & Marguerite" <pjheadlam@hotmail.com>
Subject: Life at Pangkor
Date: 31 Mar 2014 02:17:23 -0000
From: zmq5985
Well, we feel another blog coming on!
We've been patiently waiting for a new battery regulator and are still waiting but we are sure that it will arrive this week. In the meantime we have been enjoying life as far as is possible with the smog and heat. Fortunately the smog has abated a little with the small amount of rain we've had but it is affecting Jean as she is prone to a number of allergies and no doubt the smoke contains a number of nasties which should not be breathed. Still, there's not much we can do about it - we just have to hope we can leave soon. Once we get clear of the northern end of Sumatra (about Penang's latitude) things should improve. It is bizarre though. When coming up the coast you are looking at a spot where you know there is an island for instance - because the chartplotter and paper charts say so. But it's not until you are as close as half a mile that you can discern anything at all. And when a fishing trawler or flags marking nets are sighted, it's at such close range that their intentions need to be established, as far as that's possible, and some fairly quick evasive measures need to be taken. Still, that's all part of life's rich pattern as they say.
Some days we've hired an old dunga of a car (100 ringitts - NZD36 - for 24 hours) and done some reprovisioning. All the supermarkets - Billion, Tesco, Giant and Aon - are at least 10 kms from here and taxis are 60 ringitts return so the added convenience of a car is well worth it. Buses - forget it. Last Friday we had the car and were so fed up with the heat that we decided to treat ourselves to a night in a hotel with AIRCON!!! We had also previously met Jimmy, an Indian who owns among many other things a nightclub in Lumut. He also owns the local chandlery which is where we originally met him. He is a real character - a mop of very curly hair and an engaging smile! He also plays the drums and is a big fan of 60's music like us. So we booked a room at the Galaxy Hotel in Lumut for 70 ringitts. Then we had dinner at Jook's which is one of 2 good restaurants. The bill there including all drinks was just under 150 ringitts (NZD54). While there we talked to Steve who we had met before and who is a Brit ex-pat and a co-owner of Jook's. He has lived in Malaysia for nigh on 20 years and has a delightful 11 year old daughter (Natasha) together with his estranged Moslem ex-wife. Natasha is bright as a button and very articulate without being in any way precocious. We had the feeling she will go far!
Then we made our way on foot - only 200 metres or so - to Jimmy's nightclub - the Bamboo Grove! Jimmy was there and very pleased to see us as there were very few others. Still, Friday is the Moslem equivalent of our Sunday so probably that was why. Anyway, we had a good time with Jean and one of the bar workers dancing most energetically to all the old numbers - including some heavy metal which leaves yours truly cold!! Had a few games of pool with Jimmy and couldn't hear a thing as the band was so loud. Then 2 Heineckens and 2 Guinnesses later we wended our merry way back to the Galaxy where we sank into an exhausted airconditioned (!)slumber.
We have met Peter and Toni off a British catamaran - "Tigger". They live in Gibraltar and have very many sea miles under their belt. They have had a car on a monthly basis and have been kind enough to take us on supermarket excursions and on occasions to restaurants in Lumut - the aforementioned Jook's and also the Capri. As they have the Gibraltar connection, we lent them our Peter Ustinov CD "The Grand Prix of Gibraltar". It is a very clever spoof of motor racing from the early 1900's to the 60's with Girling Foss (Moss), Wolfgang von Gripps (von Trip) and Jose Julio Fandango (Fangio) very well and humourously portrayed by Ustinov who mimics the accents and characters perfectly.
It was also sad to say auf wiedersehen to Manuela and Georg who fly to Germany today. They have hauled their boat, "Sternchen", out here and will be away for 6-7 months. We will keep in touch and hopefully will see them up north somewhere again when they return.
Jean has been attempting to remove the green stains on our awning which appeared while the boat was at Danga Bay. She has had mixed success and the awning will need extensive Napisan soaking when we get to the boatyard in Thailand.
The enforced stay here at Pangkor has been useful in 2 other ways too. First we have changed our insurance policy as the old one was trying to charge us extra for going to Thailand when the passage through Indonesia, thanks to sail Indonesia, was far more hazardous. Sail Indonesia was an experience we would never wish to repeat and they are directly responsible for our determination in future to avoid all yacht rallies like the plague. There was certainly no logic on that basis for charging extra for Thailand!
Secondly we have researched Thai boatyards a bit more and have also had the opportunity to talk to other cruisers who have been around here for longer than we have. The upshot of all that is that we intend to haul out at Boat Lagoon, Krabi which is a newly established yard with a marina. The one we had been looking at is a bit too commercial and the thought of possibly being next to a big steel trawler with steel grinding going on did not fill us with joy. Costs in Thailand are very reasonable with typical labour rates being 1200 baht/man/day. This is the equivalent of NZD5.36 per hour for an 8 hour day. Some trades are a bit dearer but overall it's way cheaper than OZ, where we last hauled out - or NZ for that matter. And Thailand has had at least 20 years experience with yachts with the quality of work generally very good. Especially timber work such as teak decks. And the teak isn't expensive either. However, all that said, one does need to be on-site to keep an eye on things and the yard has reasonable cost accommodation which we will use for storage as well - so we'll certainly be on-site. We don't want to be living on the boat while she is being sanded and repainted. The old girl will be her usual pristine self once again!!
Well, that's it for now- we'll let you know again when our travels resume.
Cheers and lotsaluv from us......
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pangkor Is. Marina
Lumut.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----- End of Original Message -----
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Sunday, 30 March 2014
Friday, 28 March 2014
Fwd: Back at Pangkor for the 2nd. time!
----- Original Message -----
To: "2XS - Peter & Marguerite" <pjheadlam@hotmail.com>
Subject: Back at Pangkor for the 2nd. time!
Date: 27 Mar 2014 06:54:47 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi to all,
You won't believe this any more than we did but when we raised anchor yesterday morning at Pulau Talang we checked to see that the batteries were being charged from the engine - and they weren't! And there was a red light showing on our so-called Smart Charger/regulator. We couldn't continue like that so we made the reluctant decision to turn back yet again. At least the windlass worked well! We arrived back at Pangkor about 0930 and crept in with minimal depth but at least the tide was coming in! Back in the marina and soon the local electronics wizard (Faizul) was on board and it was obvious what had caused the problem. The terminals on the regulator were all scorched and red hot so he has taken it away to order a new one and he will also repair the existing one which we will be able to use as a spare. We should be away again by the weekend - 3rd. time lucky!!
In the meantime there are worse places to be. There is an interesting group of cruising yachts here and of course Georg and Manuela who are now hauled out. We may have discovered an agent for their particular brand of propellor here in Langkawi where they can get it repaired.
This will further delay our arrival up north and we are having 2nd. thoughts about where we eventually haul out so may be it's all for the best - we are continuing to research options although for our boat it looks like Boat Lagoon, Krabi will be the best.
Sitting here in the High Time Bistro as this is being written and looking out across the strait between Pulau Pangkor and the mainland can't all be bad! Although the smog has returned today and visibility is considerably reduced. Such a shame as this part of the coast in inherently quite beautiful but seen through a thick haze of smoke reduces its attractiveness - that's for sure. And Jean is suffering somewhat as her allergy sensitivity is giving her a hard time. It can't be good for overall health long term. Goodness knows what it does to local rates of various lung diseases. The smoke also traps higher temperatures which makes living quite uncomfortable. During the night the high temperatures remain until the early hours when there is some respite but it's shortlived. At least when we are out sailing there is relief with wind but in the marina the air is much more still.
Still won't be long now before we get further north and away from this infernal smoke haze. We'll keep you posted.
Love from us............
Jim and Jean
----- End of Original Message -----
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
To: "2XS - Peter & Marguerite" <pjheadlam@hotmail.com>
Subject: Back at Pangkor for the 2nd. time!
Date: 27 Mar 2014 06:54:47 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi to all,
You won't believe this any more than we did but when we raised anchor yesterday morning at Pulau Talang we checked to see that the batteries were being charged from the engine - and they weren't! And there was a red light showing on our so-called Smart Charger/regulator. We couldn't continue like that so we made the reluctant decision to turn back yet again. At least the windlass worked well! We arrived back at Pangkor about 0930 and crept in with minimal depth but at least the tide was coming in! Back in the marina and soon the local electronics wizard (Faizul) was on board and it was obvious what had caused the problem. The terminals on the regulator were all scorched and red hot so he has taken it away to order a new one and he will also repair the existing one which we will be able to use as a spare. We should be away again by the weekend - 3rd. time lucky!!
In the meantime there are worse places to be. There is an interesting group of cruising yachts here and of course Georg and Manuela who are now hauled out. We may have discovered an agent for their particular brand of propellor here in Langkawi where they can get it repaired.
This will further delay our arrival up north and we are having 2nd. thoughts about where we eventually haul out so may be it's all for the best - we are continuing to research options although for our boat it looks like Boat Lagoon, Krabi will be the best.
Sitting here in the High Time Bistro as this is being written and looking out across the strait between Pulau Pangkor and the mainland can't all be bad! Although the smog has returned today and visibility is considerably reduced. Such a shame as this part of the coast in inherently quite beautiful but seen through a thick haze of smoke reduces its attractiveness - that's for sure. And Jean is suffering somewhat as her allergy sensitivity is giving her a hard time. It can't be good for overall health long term. Goodness knows what it does to local rates of various lung diseases. The smoke also traps higher temperatures which makes living quite uncomfortable. During the night the high temperatures remain until the early hours when there is some respite but it's shortlived. At least when we are out sailing there is relief with wind but in the marina the air is much more still.
Still won't be long now before we get further north and away from this infernal smoke haze. We'll keep you posted.
Love from us............
Jim and Jean
----- End of Original Message -----
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Sunday, 16 March 2014
Pulau Talang and back to Pangkor
Hi again to all,
We had been enjoying our time at Pangkor Marina provisioning the boat and eating out at some great restaurants in Lumut. And having Georg and Manuela as neighbours. We had our spare salt water pump for the engine fully reconditioned and then Jim fitted it in preparation for our passage north to Thailand. All went well and with the usual regrets we left Pangkor at high tide yesterday afternoon (15/03).
We had an uneventful short passage (14 miles) to Pulau Talang where we had planned to anchor for the night. We did that and everything seemed fine but around 7 a thunderstorm eventuated and suddenly we were anchored a bit close for comfort to some rocks. We hadn't dragged but decided to move away and re-anchor, but the windlass really struggled to lift the anchor and when we got it to the surface the reason was plain to see. We'd hooked another birds nest of rope which this time appeared to be firmly attached to the bottom. We couldn't get the anchor right up so Jim had another swim - this time in the dark and rain. The water was very warm however. Soon some sawing with the trusty diver's knife saw the offending mess fall back to the bottom and we re-anchored a short distance away where we passed a peaceful night - albeit with the anchor alarm on!
No worries and in the morning at first light when we could clearly see the many fishing boats all around, we raised the anchor - or at least tried to. However, the strain the previous night coupled with the beating the poor old windlass had taken at Kupang in Indonesia and Boydong Cays on the Queensland coast finally proved too much and, although the motor seemed OK, it refused to raise the anchor. Something wrong with the drive to the chain gypsy, like clutches slipping. So, a slow combination of manual hauling to take the strain right off the windlass and we eventually had it up, but a slow process.
By this time an hour had passed and, as we'd had a long passage up to Penang planned, together with the prospect of similar problems raising the anchor every time we put it down until Thailand where we'd planned to overhaul the windlass, we decided that the prudent course would be to return to Pangkor and have it overhauled there. So we turned back dodging fishing boats and their nets all the way but of course were going to arrive at low water and we need at least half tide to enter the marina.
So we killed time by going up the Dinding River just north of Pangkor to Lumut which we had visited 3 and a half years ago by car. Malaysia's largest naval base is here but we didn't see many ships - probably all out searching for this elusive Malaysian Airlines MH370. That's a real conundrum and smacks of the best James Bond thriller. Interesting diversion up and then down the river. We then drifted on the tide for about half an hour before deciding to go into the marina at about half tide. Not much water under the keel at times but we made it and are now in our same berth again. Bit of an anticlimax but at least that will be one less job to do when we do haul out and we can be sure of the expertise here. Thailand in that regard may be something of an unknown quantity, although the yard we are going to has a very good reputation in all areas.
Still, we take the view that what is meant to be is meant to be. We'll let you know how it all pans out.
Love again from us......
Jim and Jean
Pangkor Island Marina
Lumut.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We had been enjoying our time at Pangkor Marina provisioning the boat and eating out at some great restaurants in Lumut. And having Georg and Manuela as neighbours. We had our spare salt water pump for the engine fully reconditioned and then Jim fitted it in preparation for our passage north to Thailand. All went well and with the usual regrets we left Pangkor at high tide yesterday afternoon (15/03).
We had an uneventful short passage (14 miles) to Pulau Talang where we had planned to anchor for the night. We did that and everything seemed fine but around 7 a thunderstorm eventuated and suddenly we were anchored a bit close for comfort to some rocks. We hadn't dragged but decided to move away and re-anchor, but the windlass really struggled to lift the anchor and when we got it to the surface the reason was plain to see. We'd hooked another birds nest of rope which this time appeared to be firmly attached to the bottom. We couldn't get the anchor right up so Jim had another swim - this time in the dark and rain. The water was very warm however. Soon some sawing with the trusty diver's knife saw the offending mess fall back to the bottom and we re-anchored a short distance away where we passed a peaceful night - albeit with the anchor alarm on!
No worries and in the morning at first light when we could clearly see the many fishing boats all around, we raised the anchor - or at least tried to. However, the strain the previous night coupled with the beating the poor old windlass had taken at Kupang in Indonesia and Boydong Cays on the Queensland coast finally proved too much and, although the motor seemed OK, it refused to raise the anchor. Something wrong with the drive to the chain gypsy, like clutches slipping. So, a slow combination of manual hauling to take the strain right off the windlass and we eventually had it up, but a slow process.
By this time an hour had passed and, as we'd had a long passage up to Penang planned, together with the prospect of similar problems raising the anchor every time we put it down until Thailand where we'd planned to overhaul the windlass, we decided that the prudent course would be to return to Pangkor and have it overhauled there. So we turned back dodging fishing boats and their nets all the way but of course were going to arrive at low water and we need at least half tide to enter the marina.
So we killed time by going up the Dinding River just north of Pangkor to Lumut which we had visited 3 and a half years ago by car. Malaysia's largest naval base is here but we didn't see many ships - probably all out searching for this elusive Malaysian Airlines MH370. That's a real conundrum and smacks of the best James Bond thriller. Interesting diversion up and then down the river. We then drifted on the tide for about half an hour before deciding to go into the marina at about half tide. Not much water under the keel at times but we made it and are now in our same berth again. Bit of an anticlimax but at least that will be one less job to do when we do haul out and we can be sure of the expertise here. Thailand in that regard may be something of an unknown quantity, although the yard we are going to has a very good reputation in all areas.
Still, we take the view that what is meant to be is meant to be. We'll let you know how it all pans out.
Love again from us......
Jim and Jean
Pangkor Island Marina
Lumut.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Sunday, 9 March 2014
Pangkor Island Marina Lat. 4 degrees 12.7' north Long. 100 degrees 36.1' east
Hi again,
We arrived at Pangkor after a very long passage yesterday - over 70 miles. We had been going to break the journey a little way south but decided to keep going the extra 15 miles so that we were closer this morning.
We left Pulau Angsa just north of Port Klang at first light (around 0700) and headed north into the haze - which we're now told comes from illegal forest burnoffs on Sumatra. Apparently it hasn't been as bad as this for some 4 years - just our luck to strike it now.
About 5 miles north in the middle of fishing trawlers all dragging nets around there was a loud "clunk" and vibration. On looking astern we saw a large piece of wood bobbing in our wake but the vibration continued and there was definitely a loss of motive power. So we stopped the engine after some debate and dropped the sails as well. Then Jim put on a safety harness and was tied to the boat before going down the ladder into the 100' deep murky water. At least the water was warm - not like the Kerikeri River a few years ago with a similar problem of rope around the prop. We are now officially in the Bay of Bengal so it was Jim's first swim there!! Sure enough there was a birds nest of rope entangling the prop so it was a matter of cutting it all free with a serrated diver's knife we have. The piece of wood had severely grazed the leading edge of the rudder so it's just as well we're hauling out soon as it will otherwise be a source of entry for the dreaded Teredo Worm.
Soon had the prop clear and we continued on our merry way motorsailing with a small amount of help from the tide and all the while dodging fishing boats of all sizes. The haze as we've said before certainly didn't help with that. We were going to stop at the Sembilan Islands about 15 miles south of Pangkor but still had some daylight so pressed on to Pulau Pangkor Laut where we anchored off a very swanky resort in a very calm anchorage. We were only a mile off before we could see the island which is a high mountainous island, such is the thickness of the haze. Just what we needed after a very long day. Sat in the cockpit finishing off the last of the Scotch and then had a very nourishing bowl of soup each with a bottle of French wine before collapsing into bed exhausted!
Today (Sunday) we rang the marina (4 miles away) and then proceeded to the waypoint just before high tide. Some marina staff came out in a dinghy to meet us and guide us in because the approach is quite shallow and in the haze the marina entrance was invisible. On the way in we had only 5 feet of water under the keel at times. But all went well and we were soon berthed - right next to our German friends, Georg and Manuela, on "Sternchen". It was great to see them again and no doubt there will be much catching up! The marina itself seems to have good infrastructure and every one is super friendly. It's a pity that James Khoo (the manager who we first met in Darwin) isn't here at the moment. He's in Thailand to deliver a boat back here and won't be back for a week so we'll probably miss him. He has been very helpful with information whenever we've had occasion to ask.
We heard from Georg and Manuela the news about the Malaysian Airways 777 which had disappeared on the way to Beijing from Kuala Lumpur. For such an aircraft to have vanished so quickly without even a distress call certainly suggests some sort of violent midair catastrophe and of course the immediate thing that comes to mind is a terrorist act (bomb). It seems as though they came down in the sea just short of the Vietnamese coast and one can only feel for the people.
Right now sitting in the airconditioned marina office where there is wifi internet. Will send this and then back to the boat and a cold beer!! Such is life!
Cheers and lotsaluv from us,
Jean and Jim
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pangkor Island Marina
Lumut
Malaysia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We arrived at Pangkor after a very long passage yesterday - over 70 miles. We had been going to break the journey a little way south but decided to keep going the extra 15 miles so that we were closer this morning.
We left Pulau Angsa just north of Port Klang at first light (around 0700) and headed north into the haze - which we're now told comes from illegal forest burnoffs on Sumatra. Apparently it hasn't been as bad as this for some 4 years - just our luck to strike it now.
About 5 miles north in the middle of fishing trawlers all dragging nets around there was a loud "clunk" and vibration. On looking astern we saw a large piece of wood bobbing in our wake but the vibration continued and there was definitely a loss of motive power. So we stopped the engine after some debate and dropped the sails as well. Then Jim put on a safety harness and was tied to the boat before going down the ladder into the 100' deep murky water. At least the water was warm - not like the Kerikeri River a few years ago with a similar problem of rope around the prop. We are now officially in the Bay of Bengal so it was Jim's first swim there!! Sure enough there was a birds nest of rope entangling the prop so it was a matter of cutting it all free with a serrated diver's knife we have. The piece of wood had severely grazed the leading edge of the rudder so it's just as well we're hauling out soon as it will otherwise be a source of entry for the dreaded Teredo Worm.
Soon had the prop clear and we continued on our merry way motorsailing with a small amount of help from the tide and all the while dodging fishing boats of all sizes. The haze as we've said before certainly didn't help with that. We were going to stop at the Sembilan Islands about 15 miles south of Pangkor but still had some daylight so pressed on to Pulau Pangkor Laut where we anchored off a very swanky resort in a very calm anchorage. We were only a mile off before we could see the island which is a high mountainous island, such is the thickness of the haze. Just what we needed after a very long day. Sat in the cockpit finishing off the last of the Scotch and then had a very nourishing bowl of soup each with a bottle of French wine before collapsing into bed exhausted!
Today (Sunday) we rang the marina (4 miles away) and then proceeded to the waypoint just before high tide. Some marina staff came out in a dinghy to meet us and guide us in because the approach is quite shallow and in the haze the marina entrance was invisible. On the way in we had only 5 feet of water under the keel at times. But all went well and we were soon berthed - right next to our German friends, Georg and Manuela, on "Sternchen". It was great to see them again and no doubt there will be much catching up! The marina itself seems to have good infrastructure and every one is super friendly. It's a pity that James Khoo (the manager who we first met in Darwin) isn't here at the moment. He's in Thailand to deliver a boat back here and won't be back for a week so we'll probably miss him. He has been very helpful with information whenever we've had occasion to ask.
We heard from Georg and Manuela the news about the Malaysian Airways 777 which had disappeared on the way to Beijing from Kuala Lumpur. For such an aircraft to have vanished so quickly without even a distress call certainly suggests some sort of violent midair catastrophe and of course the immediate thing that comes to mind is a terrorist act (bomb). It seems as though they came down in the sea just short of the Vietnamese coast and one can only feel for the people.
Right now sitting in the airconditioned marina office where there is wifi internet. Will send this and then back to the boat and a cold beer!! Such is life!
Cheers and lotsaluv from us,
Jean and Jim
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pangkor Island Marina
Lumut
Malaysia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Friday, 7 March 2014
Pulau Angsa Lat. north 3 degrees 11.1' Long. east 101 degrees 13.1"
We left Admiral Marina, Port Dickson at 0800 on the 6th. and have now travelled a further 70 miles north west towards our destination at Langkawi.
Yesterday we went as far as the entrance to Port Klang (the main port for Malaysia) and it was like the dodgems dodging all the shipping around the approaches. There were the usual tugs and barges and one very large bulk carrier discharging what looked like coal into barges alongside out in the roadstead. The visibility was extremely poor and this blighted the passage. It seems ridiculous that there is so much smoke being generated from illegal burnoffs that it affects the country and coastal waters to such an extent. Apparently the burnoffs are seasonal - it being the dry season at present. And it has been unseasonably dry; Selangor has introduced water rationing. However, it makes decisions based on observation of other vessels difficult to say the least. All we can say is thank goodness for the chartplotter because almost all of the time the coast (although close) was invisible or very indistinct and it would have been impossible to take any useful compass bearings. The wind followed the usual pattern - steadily increasing NE monsoon during the morning, then dying away and going WSW and increasing again up to 20 knots. Very welcome, not only for sailing, but also for cooling things down.
During the latter stages of the passage we had the benefit of the ebbing tide and our speed across the ground increased to over 8 knots. We waited until 2 large container ships had passed us on their way into Klang and then set off in their wake all the while looking astern into the haze to see whether there were any more coming up behind to run us over! Half way in we branched off to the left to take a channel between 2 islands next to the main shipping channel. The water shoaled rapidly as we went in and we chose a spot to drop the anchor hopefully clear of local fishing boats as they leave and enter the channel. There was about 2 knots of tide running but that didn't worry us unduly. We had an early dinner, set our strobe light going along with the normal anchor light and went to bed fairly exhausted.
This morning all was well and we felt refreshed but the smog was thicker than ever. The rising sun just looked like the full moon and very orange in colour. We weighed anchor at 0800 and headed around into the main shipping channel all the while looking for shipping in and out. The volume of ships is amazing and would be the envy of Ports of Auckland we are sure!! Len Brown then wouldn't need any rates to run his empire! We passed endless wharves and rows and rows of container cranes. A conservative estimate would be well over 100 cranes of various sizes. Then there was a very palatial passenger ship terminal with state of the art passenger disembarking overhead ramps (just like aircraft air bridges) - but no ship. And one would have to wonder whether any cruise ship operator would want to bring passengers into this smog laden atmosphere. If Auckland with all its cruise ship visits had a facility like that it would put the Queens Wharf cargo sheds and "the cloud" into the shade.
We continued past rows of moored decommissioned ships, more shore facilities including a large oil refinery and followed a dredged ship channel all the way to Pulau Angsa where we are spending the night. The whole trip through Port Klang was characterised by a totally unexpected lack of ship movements. We had the channel to ourselves after a flurry of ship movements prior to lifting the anchor and had plenty of time to observe and marvel at the number of ships alongside and the sheer size of the place.
Only 23 miles today so we arrived here around 1300 and have had a leisurely afternoon. Angsa consists of 2 small islands 10 miles off the coast almost opposite Kuala Selangor. One is uninhabited and the other larger one has a large radar aerial and a lighthouse. There is also an abandoned and derelict fishing village which had been built on concrete piers over the water - quite picturesque but desolate now. We have been observing large ships using the dredged channel that we had come up a few hours earlier, but once again when we came through we had it to ourselves. Bit of tide effect here but not too much of an issue.
Up early tomorrow as we have a big day to the Sembilan Islands just south of Pangkor - our intermediate destination. It's 74 miles to the Sembilans from here but there is an intermediate anchorage (52 miles) if it seems too far. All depends on the tide and resultant speed although as we get further north the tidal effect lessens so we'll see.
More to come as always.............
Lotsaluv from us,
Jim and Jean
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Yesterday we went as far as the entrance to Port Klang (the main port for Malaysia) and it was like the dodgems dodging all the shipping around the approaches. There were the usual tugs and barges and one very large bulk carrier discharging what looked like coal into barges alongside out in the roadstead. The visibility was extremely poor and this blighted the passage. It seems ridiculous that there is so much smoke being generated from illegal burnoffs that it affects the country and coastal waters to such an extent. Apparently the burnoffs are seasonal - it being the dry season at present. And it has been unseasonably dry; Selangor has introduced water rationing. However, it makes decisions based on observation of other vessels difficult to say the least. All we can say is thank goodness for the chartplotter because almost all of the time the coast (although close) was invisible or very indistinct and it would have been impossible to take any useful compass bearings. The wind followed the usual pattern - steadily increasing NE monsoon during the morning, then dying away and going WSW and increasing again up to 20 knots. Very welcome, not only for sailing, but also for cooling things down.
During the latter stages of the passage we had the benefit of the ebbing tide and our speed across the ground increased to over 8 knots. We waited until 2 large container ships had passed us on their way into Klang and then set off in their wake all the while looking astern into the haze to see whether there were any more coming up behind to run us over! Half way in we branched off to the left to take a channel between 2 islands next to the main shipping channel. The water shoaled rapidly as we went in and we chose a spot to drop the anchor hopefully clear of local fishing boats as they leave and enter the channel. There was about 2 knots of tide running but that didn't worry us unduly. We had an early dinner, set our strobe light going along with the normal anchor light and went to bed fairly exhausted.
This morning all was well and we felt refreshed but the smog was thicker than ever. The rising sun just looked like the full moon and very orange in colour. We weighed anchor at 0800 and headed around into the main shipping channel all the while looking for shipping in and out. The volume of ships is amazing and would be the envy of Ports of Auckland we are sure!! Len Brown then wouldn't need any rates to run his empire! We passed endless wharves and rows and rows of container cranes. A conservative estimate would be well over 100 cranes of various sizes. Then there was a very palatial passenger ship terminal with state of the art passenger disembarking overhead ramps (just like aircraft air bridges) - but no ship. And one would have to wonder whether any cruise ship operator would want to bring passengers into this smog laden atmosphere. If Auckland with all its cruise ship visits had a facility like that it would put the Queens Wharf cargo sheds and "the cloud" into the shade.
We continued past rows of moored decommissioned ships, more shore facilities including a large oil refinery and followed a dredged ship channel all the way to Pulau Angsa where we are spending the night. The whole trip through Port Klang was characterised by a totally unexpected lack of ship movements. We had the channel to ourselves after a flurry of ship movements prior to lifting the anchor and had plenty of time to observe and marvel at the number of ships alongside and the sheer size of the place.
Only 23 miles today so we arrived here around 1300 and have had a leisurely afternoon. Angsa consists of 2 small islands 10 miles off the coast almost opposite Kuala Selangor. One is uninhabited and the other larger one has a large radar aerial and a lighthouse. There is also an abandoned and derelict fishing village which had been built on concrete piers over the water - quite picturesque but desolate now. We have been observing large ships using the dredged channel that we had come up a few hours earlier, but once again when we came through we had it to ourselves. Bit of tide effect here but not too much of an issue.
Up early tomorrow as we have a big day to the Sembilan Islands just south of Pangkor - our intermediate destination. It's 74 miles to the Sembilans from here but there is an intermediate anchorage (52 miles) if it seems too far. All depends on the tide and resultant speed although as we get further north the tidal effect lessens so we'll see.
More to come as always.............
Lotsaluv from us,
Jim and Jean
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Sunday, 2 March 2014
Admiral Marina - Port Dickson Lat. North 02 degrees 28.518' Long. East 101 degrees 50.735'
Hi to all,
It's a bit hard to know where to start as the final weeks of our NZ sojourn have all become a bit of a blur! We went back up to Whangarei for Pauline's 70th. birthday and said goodbye to the folks at Norsand Boatyard, Noel and Litara, and Hamish and Sara with whom we have spent many happy days staying. Thank you Hamish and Sara again for everything. Then last but not least, Monique who is a French doctor who sailed her catamaran from France a few years ago and returns to NZ every year to advance the extensive refit a little more as time and funds permit. She is an amazing person, full of joie de vivre! As we've said many times, this is the worst of this transient life - constantly saying goodbye to people and wondering whether we'll ever see them again.
Then back in Auckland and a round of visits to Jim's cousins, John Mains and Rosemary Morton. It seems more vital than ever to maintain these contacts as we get older. Also a poignant visit to Jim's history teacher at St. Kentigern College at Pakuranga, Auckland in the early 1960's - Alastair Whitelaw and his wife Joan - both in their 80's. Joan is very unwell but it was wonderful to see them both. Jim still has his old school reports with Alastair's brief comments at the end of every term!! Jim enjoyed history and that was in no small measure due to Alastair's teaching. A pleasant coffee break in Ponsonby with Jim's brother Alec and his wife, Linda who is much better after her recent serious and scary illness. Jim's 67th. birthday on the 27th. and celebrated with a leg of lamb and 2 of Tracie's friends on the deck at Nile Rd. That was on the actual day, but before that we went to a BBQ at Alan and Lorraine's (Tracie's mother and stepfather) at Red Beach where 3 birthdays on the 26th. and 27th. Jan. were celebrated. Jim's, Alan's and Grant's - a brother in law of Tracie's. Most enjoyable and Jim was the grateful recipient of chocolates and a bottle of wine. Thank you Alan and Lorraine.
It was Keith's (Jean's brother) 70th. on the Saturday before we were due to leave. It was held in the woolshed on the former Izard farm which Keith manages just south of Wellsford. A great time was had by all marking the great occasion and included alcoholic recollections of Keith at former times by various friends and family. The food was spectacular and the tables were fair groaning with it. On the way back to Auckland we went via Huapai and again met Kia and John from "Atea" - a NZ boat we had met back in Danga Bay. That night dinner with Lizzie and Wayne at St. Heliers - Lizzie is an old family friend of Jean's.
Then more visits with Jim's daughter Rozanne and Chris and their two beautiful boys, Harry Jonathon and Callum Patrick. Callum, like Carter James is changing almost daily as they do at 3-4 months. When we next see them they will be so different again. Harry is great at 3 and already showing promise at Soccer and Basketball. And then of course Carter - Perry and Tracie's new son and Jean's 1st grandson. More bonding - even up to the morning we left when Jean announced she was honoured to have had the chance to change the last poohey nappy! But all joking aside, such a wrench to leave. It was sad not to have seen Jim's other 2 daughters, Charlotte and Amanda again but Charlotte was back in Christchurch and Amanda has been flat out as a midwife delivering babies!! Babies have no regard for schedules.
And of course Heather who is living at Albany. So good to see her improving all the time and she made Jean a dress which has been worn more than once since we arrived back. We have been invited to Jean's nephew's wedding (Rakesh and Geraldine) in April but sadly by then will probably be up to our elbows in the maintenance refit in Thailand. Then of course there is Jiveen and Jenny's wedding in Scotland in May. So sorry we won't be able to be there for either happy event.
And then there were happy visits with Jean's other nephew Kagan and his sister, Rhea. Jean spent an afternoon with Kagan and Rhea was at a BBQ at Milford. All good catchups.
Perry took us to the airport and then we were on Jetstar for the flight to Singapore. Once again we had bulkhead seats so the legroom was reasonable.
This account of family and friends would not be complete without grateful and heartfelt thanks to Perry and Tracie. We intruded into their lives for the best part of two and a half months and used their cars for all our visiting and errands. We cannot say thankyou enough as without you our visit would not have been possible for the length of time and all the travelling that we did.
We again stayed at the Santa Grand in Chinatown while we took care of some banking business and then it was back to Danga Bay. We were picked up at the hotel and then had a seamless ride across the Tuas Bridge into Malaysia where we had sailed under back in October. The boat was fine, if a little dusty but lots of hosing fixed that. We fitted an original new Ford fuel pump obtained locally and then we were ready to leave. Provisioning and thanks to Gene and Sheri of "Reflection", we found Harvest Frozen Foods in JB. They had by far the best selection of meat at reasonable prices that we had seen since being in Malaysia and we bought a whole fillet of beef which they cut for us into steaks. Salmon, lamb chops and sausages completed the picture and all into the freezer which had needed re-gassing. Jim feels complete again with a full freezer!!!
We arrived at Port Dickson 2 days ago on the 1st. March after sailing 159 miles from Danga Bay, Johor Bahru. We left JB at 0700 on the 27th Feb. and negotiated our way south west down the Straits of Johor under the Tuas Bridge connecting Malaysia and Singapore, past Puteri and Raffles Marinas and down into the busy waterways off Singapore and the new port in southern Johor, Tanjun Pelepas. As usual the number of ships at anchor was mind blowing - huge container ships, bulk carriers and tankers of all types. All waiting to berth at either Singapore or Tanjung Pelepas. But no worries - we picked our way through the anchorage and were soon off the SW corner of Malaysia, Tanjung Piai. Another milestone for us and the old girl as we left the Straits of Johor and entered the Straits of Malacca (Melaka).
We motorsailed as the wind was variable and we needed to get to our first anchorage before dark - a total of 47 miles for the 1st. day to Pulau (Island) Pisang. The weather pattern seems to be reliable and consists of the NE Monsoon which increases in velocity during the mid morning up to 20-25 knots. This is a good wind direction for us (starboard beam) as our course is generally NW and the sea is flat as it is an offshore wind; however, around midday the wind would start to decrease and gradually go round to the west which is the local equivalent of a sea breeze. Again it would blow with some velocity and this suited us fine. Effectively we "went about" without changing course! The difficulty arose when anchoring in the late afternoon because the westerly created a lee shore. However, at Pisang we crept as far as we dared into the lee until we were forced to stop due to rapidly shallowing water. Still, the anchorage was OK albeit with some strong tide sometimes against the wind. We should make mention of the tide. It's effect gets less as one goes further north with a tidal range at Malacca of around 2 metres as opposed to around 3 metres at Singapore. Nevertheless it gives a very useful boost to one's progress as it seemed we had up to 2 knots extra when it was ebbing north. The southwards flow does not seem to be as strong. The other phenomenon which is very noticeable is the thick haze which means that the clear air we are used to in NZ is non existent, although it does seem to be improving somewhat as we head north. The coast is very low lying and very shallow so we are usually at least 5 miles off which means one cannot see the coast at all and even when approaching an island to anchor it is very difficult to discern any landmarks until closer than about 3 miles. Again thank goodness for GPS!! The source of the haze appears to be mainly smoke from Sumatra 30 miles across the Straits of Malacca but when the wind was from the NE there was smoke and no doubt industrial haze from the Malaysian mainland as well. We should also mention that the sun doesn't rise until 0700 and sets at around 1930 so it seems that Malaysia has its permanent daylight saving!
After Pisang the next stop was Pulau Besar - a further 69 miles. This was a big day but the tide helped us greatly. The chart shows shallow water all around Besar and we crept in very gingerly in water as shallow as 12 feet but as we started to get a lee from the westerlies the water depth increased most unexpectedly to over 50'! We eventually anchored in about 20' off a small village and in view of the historic city of Malacca some 5 miles distant. One could imagine the early Chinese ocean going junks, Portugese caravels and later the Dutch merchantmen in these waters over 1500 years ago in the case of the Chinese. The British were relative latecomers on the scene. We could discern some high rise buildings in the haze. However, the island was pretty and the anchorage calm so we passed a peaceful night.
So far we have been sailing on the inshore edge of the shipping lanes through the Straits of Malacca. This is accepted practice to avoid the large ships barrelling up and down there at around 15 knots but it does put us in the inshore shipping lane which is inhabited by tugs and barges and smaller coastal vessels. One needs to keep a good watch because sometimes it can be difficult and deceptive to ascertain just which course the tugs and barges in particular are steering, especially given the poor visibility. The main shipping lanes are strictly controlled and marked and southbound ships are nearest Sumatra to the west with northbound traffic on the Malaysia side. This is because the Rules of the Road at Sea state that opposing vessels keep to the right - not like driving on the left!
And then there are the local fishing boats and their nets!! They are the main reason why we do not want to sail at night. Several times north of Malacca we had to take avoiding action so as not to run over their nets but occasionally we had no choice and put the engine out of gear as we passed between the very hard to see net floats. This was to try to not get their lines around the prop but they always seemed deep enough as we haven't fouled any yet. North of Malacca is a very extensive area for oil and gas tankers to anchor offshore and discharge or load via undersea pipelines. The coast is for the most part too shallow for a conventional port although we did see some smaller ships alongside in one particular place. Once again there seemed to be an endless row of LNG and petroleum tankers and related shore facilities and it was fascinating to just observe the scale of operations. Makes Marsden Point look like child's play by comparison.
We continued north helped along by the favourable current until we came to Cape Rachado about 6 miles south of Port Dickson. Here we turned 90 degrees to starboard to approach the marina through a channel between the beach and a shoal just offshore. Coming around the cape there were whirlpools and overfalls created by the tidal current as it swirled around the headland and we attained the dizzy speed of 10.2 knots over the ground. The old girl has never been so fast in her life!!
We followed the line of beaches around with many high rise resorts evident. We had been in touch with the marina by phone and radio and the approach was easy and well documented (compared to some we could mention!!). We were met at our berth (C33) by friendly staff who took our lines and made the berthing a breeze. We had stayed here in a hotel overlooking the marina 3 years ago and so there was another sense of quiet achievement arriving here on the Tiare. The marina is surrounded by architecturally attractive condominiums and has a pool and excellent facilities including a bar and restaurant - all available to yachty guests to use. Weekends are busy here with holidaying families from surrounding urban areas (Kuala Lumpur is quite close), but during the week apparently all goes quiet so might be able to get some lengths in the pool! We are yet to clear Customs as we made the mistake of mentioning Port Dickson on our clearance out from Johor so now we'll have to get onward clearance from here to Langkawi. Strange since we are not yet leaving Malaysia but like Indonesia these places run on paperwork - although not so bad here.
Apart from Sail Malaysia's sailing directions, we have had further useful advice from Emma and Graham on "Lippylippy" and Ian on an Australian boat here in the marina at PD. We're accumulating as much advice as possible for the coast north of here because, especially around Port Kelang which is the main commercial port for Malaysia, it is very congested and tricky navigation between extensive shoals.
As always we'll keep you posted!
Cheers and love for now
Jim and Jean
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
It's a bit hard to know where to start as the final weeks of our NZ sojourn have all become a bit of a blur! We went back up to Whangarei for Pauline's 70th. birthday and said goodbye to the folks at Norsand Boatyard, Noel and Litara, and Hamish and Sara with whom we have spent many happy days staying. Thank you Hamish and Sara again for everything. Then last but not least, Monique who is a French doctor who sailed her catamaran from France a few years ago and returns to NZ every year to advance the extensive refit a little more as time and funds permit. She is an amazing person, full of joie de vivre! As we've said many times, this is the worst of this transient life - constantly saying goodbye to people and wondering whether we'll ever see them again.
Then back in Auckland and a round of visits to Jim's cousins, John Mains and Rosemary Morton. It seems more vital than ever to maintain these contacts as we get older. Also a poignant visit to Jim's history teacher at St. Kentigern College at Pakuranga, Auckland in the early 1960's - Alastair Whitelaw and his wife Joan - both in their 80's. Joan is very unwell but it was wonderful to see them both. Jim still has his old school reports with Alastair's brief comments at the end of every term!! Jim enjoyed history and that was in no small measure due to Alastair's teaching. A pleasant coffee break in Ponsonby with Jim's brother Alec and his wife, Linda who is much better after her recent serious and scary illness. Jim's 67th. birthday on the 27th. and celebrated with a leg of lamb and 2 of Tracie's friends on the deck at Nile Rd. That was on the actual day, but before that we went to a BBQ at Alan and Lorraine's (Tracie's mother and stepfather) at Red Beach where 3 birthdays on the 26th. and 27th. Jan. were celebrated. Jim's, Alan's and Grant's - a brother in law of Tracie's. Most enjoyable and Jim was the grateful recipient of chocolates and a bottle of wine. Thank you Alan and Lorraine.
It was Keith's (Jean's brother) 70th. on the Saturday before we were due to leave. It was held in the woolshed on the former Izard farm which Keith manages just south of Wellsford. A great time was had by all marking the great occasion and included alcoholic recollections of Keith at former times by various friends and family. The food was spectacular and the tables were fair groaning with it. On the way back to Auckland we went via Huapai and again met Kia and John from "Atea" - a NZ boat we had met back in Danga Bay. That night dinner with Lizzie and Wayne at St. Heliers - Lizzie is an old family friend of Jean's.
Then more visits with Jim's daughter Rozanne and Chris and their two beautiful boys, Harry Jonathon and Callum Patrick. Callum, like Carter James is changing almost daily as they do at 3-4 months. When we next see them they will be so different again. Harry is great at 3 and already showing promise at Soccer and Basketball. And then of course Carter - Perry and Tracie's new son and Jean's 1st grandson. More bonding - even up to the morning we left when Jean announced she was honoured to have had the chance to change the last poohey nappy! But all joking aside, such a wrench to leave. It was sad not to have seen Jim's other 2 daughters, Charlotte and Amanda again but Charlotte was back in Christchurch and Amanda has been flat out as a midwife delivering babies!! Babies have no regard for schedules.
And of course Heather who is living at Albany. So good to see her improving all the time and she made Jean a dress which has been worn more than once since we arrived back. We have been invited to Jean's nephew's wedding (Rakesh and Geraldine) in April but sadly by then will probably be up to our elbows in the maintenance refit in Thailand. Then of course there is Jiveen and Jenny's wedding in Scotland in May. So sorry we won't be able to be there for either happy event.
And then there were happy visits with Jean's other nephew Kagan and his sister, Rhea. Jean spent an afternoon with Kagan and Rhea was at a BBQ at Milford. All good catchups.
Perry took us to the airport and then we were on Jetstar for the flight to Singapore. Once again we had bulkhead seats so the legroom was reasonable.
This account of family and friends would not be complete without grateful and heartfelt thanks to Perry and Tracie. We intruded into their lives for the best part of two and a half months and used their cars for all our visiting and errands. We cannot say thankyou enough as without you our visit would not have been possible for the length of time and all the travelling that we did.
We again stayed at the Santa Grand in Chinatown while we took care of some banking business and then it was back to Danga Bay. We were picked up at the hotel and then had a seamless ride across the Tuas Bridge into Malaysia where we had sailed under back in October. The boat was fine, if a little dusty but lots of hosing fixed that. We fitted an original new Ford fuel pump obtained locally and then we were ready to leave. Provisioning and thanks to Gene and Sheri of "Reflection", we found Harvest Frozen Foods in JB. They had by far the best selection of meat at reasonable prices that we had seen since being in Malaysia and we bought a whole fillet of beef which they cut for us into steaks. Salmon, lamb chops and sausages completed the picture and all into the freezer which had needed re-gassing. Jim feels complete again with a full freezer!!!
We arrived at Port Dickson 2 days ago on the 1st. March after sailing 159 miles from Danga Bay, Johor Bahru. We left JB at 0700 on the 27th Feb. and negotiated our way south west down the Straits of Johor under the Tuas Bridge connecting Malaysia and Singapore, past Puteri and Raffles Marinas and down into the busy waterways off Singapore and the new port in southern Johor, Tanjun Pelepas. As usual the number of ships at anchor was mind blowing - huge container ships, bulk carriers and tankers of all types. All waiting to berth at either Singapore or Tanjung Pelepas. But no worries - we picked our way through the anchorage and were soon off the SW corner of Malaysia, Tanjung Piai. Another milestone for us and the old girl as we left the Straits of Johor and entered the Straits of Malacca (Melaka).
We motorsailed as the wind was variable and we needed to get to our first anchorage before dark - a total of 47 miles for the 1st. day to Pulau (Island) Pisang. The weather pattern seems to be reliable and consists of the NE Monsoon which increases in velocity during the mid morning up to 20-25 knots. This is a good wind direction for us (starboard beam) as our course is generally NW and the sea is flat as it is an offshore wind; however, around midday the wind would start to decrease and gradually go round to the west which is the local equivalent of a sea breeze. Again it would blow with some velocity and this suited us fine. Effectively we "went about" without changing course! The difficulty arose when anchoring in the late afternoon because the westerly created a lee shore. However, at Pisang we crept as far as we dared into the lee until we were forced to stop due to rapidly shallowing water. Still, the anchorage was OK albeit with some strong tide sometimes against the wind. We should make mention of the tide. It's effect gets less as one goes further north with a tidal range at Malacca of around 2 metres as opposed to around 3 metres at Singapore. Nevertheless it gives a very useful boost to one's progress as it seemed we had up to 2 knots extra when it was ebbing north. The southwards flow does not seem to be as strong. The other phenomenon which is very noticeable is the thick haze which means that the clear air we are used to in NZ is non existent, although it does seem to be improving somewhat as we head north. The coast is very low lying and very shallow so we are usually at least 5 miles off which means one cannot see the coast at all and even when approaching an island to anchor it is very difficult to discern any landmarks until closer than about 3 miles. Again thank goodness for GPS!! The source of the haze appears to be mainly smoke from Sumatra 30 miles across the Straits of Malacca but when the wind was from the NE there was smoke and no doubt industrial haze from the Malaysian mainland as well. We should also mention that the sun doesn't rise until 0700 and sets at around 1930 so it seems that Malaysia has its permanent daylight saving!
After Pisang the next stop was Pulau Besar - a further 69 miles. This was a big day but the tide helped us greatly. The chart shows shallow water all around Besar and we crept in very gingerly in water as shallow as 12 feet but as we started to get a lee from the westerlies the water depth increased most unexpectedly to over 50'! We eventually anchored in about 20' off a small village and in view of the historic city of Malacca some 5 miles distant. One could imagine the early Chinese ocean going junks, Portugese caravels and later the Dutch merchantmen in these waters over 1500 years ago in the case of the Chinese. The British were relative latecomers on the scene. We could discern some high rise buildings in the haze. However, the island was pretty and the anchorage calm so we passed a peaceful night.
So far we have been sailing on the inshore edge of the shipping lanes through the Straits of Malacca. This is accepted practice to avoid the large ships barrelling up and down there at around 15 knots but it does put us in the inshore shipping lane which is inhabited by tugs and barges and smaller coastal vessels. One needs to keep a good watch because sometimes it can be difficult and deceptive to ascertain just which course the tugs and barges in particular are steering, especially given the poor visibility. The main shipping lanes are strictly controlled and marked and southbound ships are nearest Sumatra to the west with northbound traffic on the Malaysia side. This is because the Rules of the Road at Sea state that opposing vessels keep to the right - not like driving on the left!
And then there are the local fishing boats and their nets!! They are the main reason why we do not want to sail at night. Several times north of Malacca we had to take avoiding action so as not to run over their nets but occasionally we had no choice and put the engine out of gear as we passed between the very hard to see net floats. This was to try to not get their lines around the prop but they always seemed deep enough as we haven't fouled any yet. North of Malacca is a very extensive area for oil and gas tankers to anchor offshore and discharge or load via undersea pipelines. The coast is for the most part too shallow for a conventional port although we did see some smaller ships alongside in one particular place. Once again there seemed to be an endless row of LNG and petroleum tankers and related shore facilities and it was fascinating to just observe the scale of operations. Makes Marsden Point look like child's play by comparison.
We continued north helped along by the favourable current until we came to Cape Rachado about 6 miles south of Port Dickson. Here we turned 90 degrees to starboard to approach the marina through a channel between the beach and a shoal just offshore. Coming around the cape there were whirlpools and overfalls created by the tidal current as it swirled around the headland and we attained the dizzy speed of 10.2 knots over the ground. The old girl has never been so fast in her life!!
We followed the line of beaches around with many high rise resorts evident. We had been in touch with the marina by phone and radio and the approach was easy and well documented (compared to some we could mention!!). We were met at our berth (C33) by friendly staff who took our lines and made the berthing a breeze. We had stayed here in a hotel overlooking the marina 3 years ago and so there was another sense of quiet achievement arriving here on the Tiare. The marina is surrounded by architecturally attractive condominiums and has a pool and excellent facilities including a bar and restaurant - all available to yachty guests to use. Weekends are busy here with holidaying families from surrounding urban areas (Kuala Lumpur is quite close), but during the week apparently all goes quiet so might be able to get some lengths in the pool! We are yet to clear Customs as we made the mistake of mentioning Port Dickson on our clearance out from Johor so now we'll have to get onward clearance from here to Langkawi. Strange since we are not yet leaving Malaysia but like Indonesia these places run on paperwork - although not so bad here.
Apart from Sail Malaysia's sailing directions, we have had further useful advice from Emma and Graham on "Lippylippy" and Ian on an Australian boat here in the marina at PD. We're accumulating as much advice as possible for the coast north of here because, especially around Port Kelang which is the main commercial port for Malaysia, it is very congested and tricky navigation between extensive shoals.
As always we'll keep you posted!
Cheers and love for now
Jim and Jean
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday, 17 February 2014
Fwd: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
----- Original Message -----
To: "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>
Cc: "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Dave Baird (Gauntlet "Gemini")" <dave@zerofive.co.uk>, "Classic Yacht Assn" <joycetalbot@classicyacht.org.nz>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>
Subject: Fwd: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:15:18 -0000
From: zmq5985
----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Cc: "Murray & Jo Wilkinson" <norsand@xtra.co.nz>, "Westwind - Chris & Gilli Dicker" <westwind@live.com.au>, "Steven Worsfold" <smworsfold@msn.com>, "Sina - Noel and Litara" <yachtsina@hotmail.com>, "Rosemary Morton" <rosemary.morton@xtra.co.nz>, "Richard & Pauline McDonald - Ph. (09) 4356259 10 DipRd., Kamo NZ 0112" <phl@slingshot.co.nz>, "Raisen" <Rozanne.Donald@stcuthberts.school.nz>, "Perry" <perry_lanaway@hotmail.com>, "Kerrin Worsfold" <worsfoldfamily@gmail.com>, "John & Garry" <garrett.d.stack@gmail.com>, "Jane & Roy Vaughan" <janevaughan@orcon.net.nz>, "Heather Lal" <heatherlal53@gmail.com>, "Harold Kidd" <Harold@hklaw.co.nz>, "Hamish & Sara" <bluedogstainless@xtra.co.nz>, "Dennis Bouverie (" <dennis.b@xtra.co.nz>, "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>, "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>
Subject: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:09:13 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi,
During our rationalisation of our storage unit while in NZ recently we came across a copy of a book entitled "Out of Auckland" by Clifford Hawkins and published in 1960. The foreword is by Dr. R.A. Falla who was at that time Director of the Dominion Museum in Wellington. The book covers early European maritime history in New Zealand with details of many boats built in New Zealand up to the early 1900's. There is an extensive passage devoted to the "Tiare Taporo" and I thought it may be of interest. It covers pages 140-145 of the book and I am reproducing it here (with appropriate additions as appropriate):
Even with the coming of steam and auxiliary power, schooners continued to be popular with Island Merchants and Traders right up to the early 1900's. None of the old timers survive today but, out of Papeete, there still sails a schooner that immediately attracts one's attention. She is the "Tiare Taporo" which was designed and built by Charles Bailey Jnr. in 1913 for the islands trading firm of Messrs. A.B. Donald Ltd. Her first Master, Capt. J. Winchester was originally a 50% shareholder until his shares were bought at a later time by A.B. Donald - Jim's great grandfather.
Of 173 tons gross and with a length of 89.6 feet, beam 23.4 feet and depth 9.8 feet, she certainly made a fine addition to the fleet of South Pacific traders. Apart from the "Strathcona", which was lost on the North Minerva Reef on her maiden voyage in 1915, the "Tiare Taporo" was the last schooner to be built specially for the islands trade. "Strathcona" was built for the Pacific Cable Board as a supply vessel and was not intended for trading purposes. Bailey always expressed the opinion that she was his finest craft, and much has been said of her sailing qualities, but actually she was not afloat long enough to warrant all that has been said of her speed.
The "Tiare Taporo" got her name over the Donald's dining table, when a discussion arose over what their new vessel was to be called. It was jocularly suggested that as the firm received revenue from the trade in lime juice, the schooner should be named after the lime! From that suggestion came the lovely Tahitian words "Tiare Taporo" - the flower of the lime - as fine a name that could be bestowed upon any ship.
On fitting out, the "Tiare Taporo" loaded general cargo at the now non-existent Hobson St. Wharf, Auckland and after a trial run in the Hauraki Gulf, sailed for Papeete on 3rd. July 1913. Her master was a part owner and well-known identity, Capt. J. Winchester, and the mate, Capt. E. Lucas who some years later became the chief harbour pilot at Papeete. The schooner made a fine run of 11 and a half days to Tahiti from where she traded under the French flag, mainly among the Society, Marquesas and Tuamotu Groups.
During World War I the "Tiare Taporo" was fortunate in keeping out of the track of the German raider "Seeadler" and not being captured, as was the "Lutece", formerly the Auckland built "Gauloise". The "Tiare Taporo" did come into this episode though, when she sailed for Mopelia to pick up the marooned Allied sailors whose ships had been sunk by von Lucknow and left there when that raider and his crew made their escape. Von Lucknow had departed in one of the "Seeadler's" boats before the capture of the "Lutece" and was eventually caught up with on Wakaya Is. in the Fijis.
In 1918 the "Tiare Taporo" went up to San Francisco and loaded case oil for Auckland where she arrived on 8th. January 1919, 58 days out. After an overhaul at Auckland, during which the main mast was shifted six feet further aft, the schooner cleared port on 16th. February, to take over the Cook Islands services of Messrs. A.B. Donald. Being clear of trading in French territorial waters, the port of registry was changed from Papeete to Auckland. The "Tiare Taporo" had already become well known during her voyages out of the French port,but now much of the colour of the South Seas was to be woven into her career with Viggo Rasmussen as her master.
Born in Denmark, Viggo went to sea at an early age and arrived in Tahiti in 1896. He spent 10 years in French Oceania at various callings and came to know the islands and their people through his numerous trading schooner voyages and his pearling ventures in the Tuamotus. As with so many others who drifted down to that corner of the Pacific, Viggo found the life very much to his liking, and in Tahiti romance with a Mitiaro girl ended in matrimony. Taking his wife back to Mitiaro in the Cook Group, he set up as a trader there. But the call of the sea proved to be too strong for him and away he sailed in the schooner "Vaite". Trading in the Cook Islands, home was never far away, and the experience gained was invaluable to Viggo when he was appointed Master of the "Tiare Taporo" which replaced the "Vaite" because that vessel had been having difficulty in handling all of the work that was offering.
Known to Polynesians and Europeans alike as "Papa" Viggo, Rasmussen and his schooner became popular with all those whose business meant travel among the islands, and Viggo maintained his contact with Tahiti with occasional calls to Papeete for refitting, generally during the hurricane season.
In 1922, after picking up 104 tons of copra in the Northern Cook Group, the "Tiare Taporo" left Penrhyn for Auckland on 28th. January. Fine weather prevailed until 20th. February when an easterly gale was encountered. Auckland was made on the 22nd. and, after discharge a lengthy overhaul was undertaken so that it was not until 29th. April that port was cleared for Rarotonga and Papeete under Captain Ruth, Viggo Rasmussen not going back with the schooner.
Outside the Hauraki Gulf another easterly blew up, and when a leak developed 160 miles out, it was decided to turn back for Auckland rather than run the risk of damaging the cargo which consisted mainly of provisions. Auckland was made on 2nd. May where the leak, which had been located above the waterline, was repaired and the Waitemata was finally cleared for Rarotonga on 7th. May.
No doubt all on board were glad to be clear of the stormy New Zealand waters. Perhaps Viggo knew a thing or two when he remained ashore. He later rejoined the "Tiare Taporo" in the Islands and remained with her until 1936 when the veteran master left her and the sea to become Resident Agent on Penrhyn Island until 1945, when ill health took him to Rarotonga. Feeling that his end was near, he sailed in his old schooner to spend his last days with his family on Penrhyn. There, in 1947, he passed away, within sound of the mighty Pacific rollers that had been so familiar to him with their incessant pounding on the reefs.
After the death of Viggo Rasmussen, Capt. Benson had the "Tiare Taporo" and in 1948 Capt. Cambridge took command. In December that year a violent storm struck the Cook Islands and much anxiety was felt for the safety of the "Tiare Taporo" which had left Mangaia for Mauku, 100 miles distant. Nothing was heard of the schooner for four and a half days and, as can be imagined, the passengers on board thought more than once that their end had come. Perhaps some had reached the stage where they did not even care and would have been only too glad to have had their misery put to an end. Anyway, it so happened that the good ship weathered the storm and the passage was soon a thing to be forgotten.
In 1949 the "Tiare Taporo" under Andy Thomson, was again in Auckland for overhaul, arriving from Rarotonga and later returning to the Cook Group until she herself was replaced by the M.V. "Charlotte Donald". She then took a labour gang to the phosphate island of Makatea and from there sailed for Papeete where she was handed over to the Etablissements Donald-Tahiti.
Capt. Andy Thomson, then in the "Charlotte Donald", seeing the "Tiare Taporo" in Papeete after a voyage to the Marquesas for copra, wrote: "The Tiare looked well, all dolled and painted up. They always keep the vessels at Papeete in tip-top order. I don't believe you'll see such nicely kept ships in any place in the world as you do in Papeete, Tahiti."
The author, Robert Gibbings, travelled through the Cook Islands and to Tahiti aboard the "Tiare Taporo" while gathering material for his beautiful book on life in the South Seas, appropriately called "Over the Reefs".
The loss by fire of the ketch "Artemise" in February 1953 at Raroia in the Tuamotus left the "Tiare Taporo" as the only remaining Auckland built fore and after sailing in French Oceania. In 1960, however she was once again in the Cook Group with Andy Thomson at the helm.
As elsewhere, Tahitian craft now rely on diesels so that today there is little to remind us of the days when a great fleet of glistening white schooners tied up under the Flamboyants of Papeete's waterfront.
Addendum: The "Tiare Taporo" was sold in 1964 and sadly soon after that she was a total loss when she dragged her mooring in a storm at Anyeitum Is. in Vanuatu.
Andy Thomson was a great seaman. He had the enviable record of never losing a ship or a man overboard during a time when none of the electronic navigation aids we take for granted today existed. He was born in Brooklyn, New York and came to the South Pacific via Alaska as a young man. Jim has a letter from Andy in which he describes meeting A.B. Donald in Tahiti in 1908. He described ABD as "an up and coming fellow"!!! Jim came to know Andy quite well during a voyage on the Company's steel motor ship "Akatere" from Auckland to Rarotonga in 1968. Andy taught him how to navigate with a sextant during that passage which took 2 weeks - longer than the Tiare's original passage to Tahiti in 1913. Jim heard many wonderful stories of the old South Seas from Andy during Sunday afternoon visits to Andy's house at Arorangi - near where the Rarotongan Hotel now stands. These visits always involved a bottle of Scotch Whisky!
These were fascinating days of the early South Pacific with events and characters who will never be seen again.
We are hoping to keep at least some memory of those days with our present voyaging on our 39' Gauntlet cutter, "Tiare Taporo III". She is built in timber in the same manner (Carvel planked) as the old schooner. At least the name is still out there cruising the seas - although far removed geographically from the original Tiare's cruising grounds.
Hope you have enjoyed this snippet of New Zealand's maritime history.
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay
Johor Bahru
Malaysia.
----- End of Original Message -----
----- End of Original Message -----
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
To: "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>
Cc: "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Dave Baird (Gauntlet "Gemini")" <dave@zerofive.co.uk>, "Classic Yacht Assn" <joycetalbot@classicyacht.org.nz>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>
Subject: Fwd: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:15:18 -0000
From: zmq5985
----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Cc: "Murray & Jo Wilkinson" <norsand@xtra.co.nz>, "Westwind - Chris & Gilli Dicker" <westwind@live.com.au>, "Steven Worsfold" <smworsfold@msn.com>, "Sina - Noel and Litara" <yachtsina@hotmail.com>, "Rosemary Morton" <rosemary.morton@xtra.co.nz>, "Richard & Pauline McDonald - Ph. (09) 4356259 10 DipRd., Kamo NZ 0112" <phl@slingshot.co.nz>, "Raisen" <Rozanne.Donald@stcuthberts.school.nz>, "Perry" <perry_lanaway@hotmail.com>, "Kerrin Worsfold" <worsfoldfamily@gmail.com>, "John & Garry" <garrett.d.stack@gmail.com>, "Jane & Roy Vaughan" <janevaughan@orcon.net.nz>, "Heather Lal" <heatherlal53@gmail.com>, "Harold Kidd" <Harold@hklaw.co.nz>, "Hamish & Sara" <bluedogstainless@xtra.co.nz>, "Dennis Bouverie (" <dennis.b@xtra.co.nz>, "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>, "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>
Subject: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:09:13 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi,
During our rationalisation of our storage unit while in NZ recently we came across a copy of a book entitled "Out of Auckland" by Clifford Hawkins and published in 1960. The foreword is by Dr. R.A. Falla who was at that time Director of the Dominion Museum in Wellington. The book covers early European maritime history in New Zealand with details of many boats built in New Zealand up to the early 1900's. There is an extensive passage devoted to the "Tiare Taporo" and I thought it may be of interest. It covers pages 140-145 of the book and I am reproducing it here (with appropriate additions as appropriate):
Even with the coming of steam and auxiliary power, schooners continued to be popular with Island Merchants and Traders right up to the early 1900's. None of the old timers survive today but, out of Papeete, there still sails a schooner that immediately attracts one's attention. She is the "Tiare Taporo" which was designed and built by Charles Bailey Jnr. in 1913 for the islands trading firm of Messrs. A.B. Donald Ltd. Her first Master, Capt. J. Winchester was originally a 50% shareholder until his shares were bought at a later time by A.B. Donald - Jim's great grandfather.
Of 173 tons gross and with a length of 89.6 feet, beam 23.4 feet and depth 9.8 feet, she certainly made a fine addition to the fleet of South Pacific traders. Apart from the "Strathcona", which was lost on the North Minerva Reef on her maiden voyage in 1915, the "Tiare Taporo" was the last schooner to be built specially for the islands trade. "Strathcona" was built for the Pacific Cable Board as a supply vessel and was not intended for trading purposes. Bailey always expressed the opinion that she was his finest craft, and much has been said of her sailing qualities, but actually she was not afloat long enough to warrant all that has been said of her speed.
The "Tiare Taporo" got her name over the Donald's dining table, when a discussion arose over what their new vessel was to be called. It was jocularly suggested that as the firm received revenue from the trade in lime juice, the schooner should be named after the lime! From that suggestion came the lovely Tahitian words "Tiare Taporo" - the flower of the lime - as fine a name that could be bestowed upon any ship.
On fitting out, the "Tiare Taporo" loaded general cargo at the now non-existent Hobson St. Wharf, Auckland and after a trial run in the Hauraki Gulf, sailed for Papeete on 3rd. July 1913. Her master was a part owner and well-known identity, Capt. J. Winchester, and the mate, Capt. E. Lucas who some years later became the chief harbour pilot at Papeete. The schooner made a fine run of 11 and a half days to Tahiti from where she traded under the French flag, mainly among the Society, Marquesas and Tuamotu Groups.
During World War I the "Tiare Taporo" was fortunate in keeping out of the track of the German raider "Seeadler" and not being captured, as was the "Lutece", formerly the Auckland built "Gauloise". The "Tiare Taporo" did come into this episode though, when she sailed for Mopelia to pick up the marooned Allied sailors whose ships had been sunk by von Lucknow and left there when that raider and his crew made their escape. Von Lucknow had departed in one of the "Seeadler's" boats before the capture of the "Lutece" and was eventually caught up with on Wakaya Is. in the Fijis.
In 1918 the "Tiare Taporo" went up to San Francisco and loaded case oil for Auckland where she arrived on 8th. January 1919, 58 days out. After an overhaul at Auckland, during which the main mast was shifted six feet further aft, the schooner cleared port on 16th. February, to take over the Cook Islands services of Messrs. A.B. Donald. Being clear of trading in French territorial waters, the port of registry was changed from Papeete to Auckland. The "Tiare Taporo" had already become well known during her voyages out of the French port,but now much of the colour of the South Seas was to be woven into her career with Viggo Rasmussen as her master.
Born in Denmark, Viggo went to sea at an early age and arrived in Tahiti in 1896. He spent 10 years in French Oceania at various callings and came to know the islands and their people through his numerous trading schooner voyages and his pearling ventures in the Tuamotus. As with so many others who drifted down to that corner of the Pacific, Viggo found the life very much to his liking, and in Tahiti romance with a Mitiaro girl ended in matrimony. Taking his wife back to Mitiaro in the Cook Group, he set up as a trader there. But the call of the sea proved to be too strong for him and away he sailed in the schooner "Vaite". Trading in the Cook Islands, home was never far away, and the experience gained was invaluable to Viggo when he was appointed Master of the "Tiare Taporo" which replaced the "Vaite" because that vessel had been having difficulty in handling all of the work that was offering.
Known to Polynesians and Europeans alike as "Papa" Viggo, Rasmussen and his schooner became popular with all those whose business meant travel among the islands, and Viggo maintained his contact with Tahiti with occasional calls to Papeete for refitting, generally during the hurricane season.
In 1922, after picking up 104 tons of copra in the Northern Cook Group, the "Tiare Taporo" left Penrhyn for Auckland on 28th. January. Fine weather prevailed until 20th. February when an easterly gale was encountered. Auckland was made on the 22nd. and, after discharge a lengthy overhaul was undertaken so that it was not until 29th. April that port was cleared for Rarotonga and Papeete under Captain Ruth, Viggo Rasmussen not going back with the schooner.
Outside the Hauraki Gulf another easterly blew up, and when a leak developed 160 miles out, it was decided to turn back for Auckland rather than run the risk of damaging the cargo which consisted mainly of provisions. Auckland was made on 2nd. May where the leak, which had been located above the waterline, was repaired and the Waitemata was finally cleared for Rarotonga on 7th. May.
No doubt all on board were glad to be clear of the stormy New Zealand waters. Perhaps Viggo knew a thing or two when he remained ashore. He later rejoined the "Tiare Taporo" in the Islands and remained with her until 1936 when the veteran master left her and the sea to become Resident Agent on Penrhyn Island until 1945, when ill health took him to Rarotonga. Feeling that his end was near, he sailed in his old schooner to spend his last days with his family on Penrhyn. There, in 1947, he passed away, within sound of the mighty Pacific rollers that had been so familiar to him with their incessant pounding on the reefs.
After the death of Viggo Rasmussen, Capt. Benson had the "Tiare Taporo" and in 1948 Capt. Cambridge took command. In December that year a violent storm struck the Cook Islands and much anxiety was felt for the safety of the "Tiare Taporo" which had left Mangaia for Mauku, 100 miles distant. Nothing was heard of the schooner for four and a half days and, as can be imagined, the passengers on board thought more than once that their end had come. Perhaps some had reached the stage where they did not even care and would have been only too glad to have had their misery put to an end. Anyway, it so happened that the good ship weathered the storm and the passage was soon a thing to be forgotten.
In 1949 the "Tiare Taporo" under Andy Thomson, was again in Auckland for overhaul, arriving from Rarotonga and later returning to the Cook Group until she herself was replaced by the M.V. "Charlotte Donald". She then took a labour gang to the phosphate island of Makatea and from there sailed for Papeete where she was handed over to the Etablissements Donald-Tahiti.
Capt. Andy Thomson, then in the "Charlotte Donald", seeing the "Tiare Taporo" in Papeete after a voyage to the Marquesas for copra, wrote: "The Tiare looked well, all dolled and painted up. They always keep the vessels at Papeete in tip-top order. I don't believe you'll see such nicely kept ships in any place in the world as you do in Papeete, Tahiti."
The author, Robert Gibbings, travelled through the Cook Islands and to Tahiti aboard the "Tiare Taporo" while gathering material for his beautiful book on life in the South Seas, appropriately called "Over the Reefs".
The loss by fire of the ketch "Artemise" in February 1953 at Raroia in the Tuamotus left the "Tiare Taporo" as the only remaining Auckland built fore and after sailing in French Oceania. In 1960, however she was once again in the Cook Group with Andy Thomson at the helm.
As elsewhere, Tahitian craft now rely on diesels so that today there is little to remind us of the days when a great fleet of glistening white schooners tied up under the Flamboyants of Papeete's waterfront.
Addendum: The "Tiare Taporo" was sold in 1964 and sadly soon after that she was a total loss when she dragged her mooring in a storm at Anyeitum Is. in Vanuatu.
Andy Thomson was a great seaman. He had the enviable record of never losing a ship or a man overboard during a time when none of the electronic navigation aids we take for granted today existed. He was born in Brooklyn, New York and came to the South Pacific via Alaska as a young man. Jim has a letter from Andy in which he describes meeting A.B. Donald in Tahiti in 1908. He described ABD as "an up and coming fellow"!!! Jim came to know Andy quite well during a voyage on the Company's steel motor ship "Akatere" from Auckland to Rarotonga in 1968. Andy taught him how to navigate with a sextant during that passage which took 2 weeks - longer than the Tiare's original passage to Tahiti in 1913. Jim heard many wonderful stories of the old South Seas from Andy during Sunday afternoon visits to Andy's house at Arorangi - near where the Rarotongan Hotel now stands. These visits always involved a bottle of Scotch Whisky!
These were fascinating days of the early South Pacific with events and characters who will never be seen again.
We are hoping to keep at least some memory of those days with our present voyaging on our 39' Gauntlet cutter, "Tiare Taporo III". She is built in timber in the same manner (Carvel planked) as the old schooner. At least the name is still out there cruising the seas - although far removed geographically from the original Tiare's cruising grounds.
Hope you have enjoyed this snippet of New Zealand's maritime history.
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay
Johor Bahru
Malaysia.
----- End of Original Message -----
----- End of Original Message -----
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)