Monday, 10 June 2013

Vrilya Point Lat. 11 degrees 13.4' S Long. 142 degrees 07.2' E 11/06

Well, we had a fairly unpleasant introduction to the Gulf of Carpentaria yesterday. We left Seisia as planned at 0945 in company with "Mohea" to catch the tide at the entrance to the Endeavour Straits and all went well as we wended our way through the maze of shoals - courtesy of the chartplotter. You could not discern visually any shallow water except for a couple of breaking reefs that we saw.
Then after about an hour we left the Straits and were out in the Gulf. At that point we were about 12 miles from land. Suddenly it became very rough indeed as there appeared to be a conflict between the SW flowing tide and the SE wind which was gusting in the high 20's. We started sailing south and tried all sorts of combinations including motorsailing but were hammered by big seas and high winds. However, we didn't have much choice and continued battling south until we left the tidal influence and slowly but surely we came more into the lee of the coast as we came closer. From Endeavour Straits to Vrilya Point we had about 15 miles to travel but it was a very long 15 miles. We anchored in twilight in a calm anchorage (thank goodness) and after a quick meal and shower went to bed. Had to do a bit of cleaning up at first because we hadn't thought to put a cover on the fore hatch and with the amount of water cascading over the boat some salty drips came down onto our bed - much to Jean's chagrin. We slept well needless to say.
Tomorrow we will be going further down the coast to try to avoid the higher wind zone in the northern Gulf.
Cheers and love from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxo
Postscript to above - as the morning progressed the tide was going out and Jean noticed what she thought was a crocodile on the surface. On closer inspection though it turned out to be rock which was just uncovering with the ebbing tide. We hadn't seen it last night because it would have been covered so we were lucky we didn't anchor any further in, particularly as the tide went further out there were numerous rocks showing just in front of us! We had been blissfully asleep last night unaware of the proximity of these hazards only 30-40 metres from us! We knew there was s reef in front of us and that's why we anchored where we did but had we known how close we would have been a little further out. Anyway, we shifted anchorage this morning and are a little safer for tonight.
We are now debating whether to go direct to Gove direct from here as the weather is expected to moderate over the next 3 days. The wind angle would be better than if we go further south. We'll make a final decision once we hear the weather forecast this afternoon and see another set of Gribs. If we do go in the morning, there won't be any further blogs until we get to Gove which would be Friday night or Saturday morning. It's a bit over 300 miles - about a 1/3 of the distance from NZ to New Caledonia! But the wind will be with us this time unlike that 1st. passage!

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Sunday, 9 June 2013

Leaving Seishia tomorrow

The plan is to weigh anchor at 0930 (low tide here) to catch the start of the flood tide to the Endeavour Straits entrance. There are several routes through there but we have chosen the central one starting at Lat. 10 degrees 55.6" S Long. 142 degrees 05.0" E as it seems to offer the easiest way through the shoals. Navigation needs to be fairly precise because there are extensive areas with only a metre over them at low tide. Still, the RAN charts together with the chartplotter will see us through. The Great Navigator had no advance knowledge, much less the aids available to us, and yet he made it outbound to Batavia so we should have no problem.
The plan then is to sail south along the eastern shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria until Lat. 12 degrees south from where we will leave on an easterly heading direct for Gove 300 miles away. The rationale for this is that the winds are lighter further south in the Gulf and also we should be free of the competing tidal influences further north which by all accounts can throw up some nasty seas. These tides are largely unpredictable, such are the complexities surrounding the movements between the Arafura and Coral Seas.
It will take us 2-3 days to get south and then we should be heading east about Wed/Thurs providing the weather is still looking OK.
We had lunch on board "Settlement" today with Andrew and Sue (another Kiwi!) and Irvin (also a Kiwi) and Jenny off "Backchat". Before that we went ashore and Jean did some more washing (sheets this time) and we hung it all out to dry. There was intermittent drizzly rain but we rigged our plastic poncho raincoats over most of it and that did the trick. Had a meat pie and a cup of tea and then lunch.
Later getting the dinghy on board and all lashed down and generally getting ready for sea. We are sailing in company with a German boat - "Mohea" - which is also in the rally. They are Helmut and Ho Ying - she is Korean. Hope we've got the name correct! We will anchor tomorrow night at Vrilya Point but they will be carrying on south during the night - we will see them in Gove.
We'll let you know how we get on with our first foray into the Gulf. It is supposed to be very good sailing because it's all flat water with the wind offshore. It will make a welcome change from the passage up the Coral Coast.
Cheers and lots of love from us.......
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxo

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Wednesday, 5 June 2013

Fwd: Tiare Taporo III has rounded Cape York at Lat. 10 degrees 41.4' S Long. 142 degrees 31.4' E

----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Tiare Taporo III has rounded Cape York at Lat. 10 degrees 41.4' S Long. 142 degrees 31.4' E
Date: 04 Jun 2013 00:51:47 -0000
From: zmq5985

Oh frabjous day - caloo calay - beware the jub-jub bird and the frumious bandersnatch.
Sorry for the misquoted bit of "The Jabberwocky" by Lewis Carrol but the first part seemed absolutely appropriate for we have finally beaten the Coral Coast. But wait, we get ahead of ourselves..............
At first light we started pulling up the anchor at Boydong. All went well at first until there was about 10 metres left to go and then the anchor or chain stuck fast on something on the bottom. We still couldn't see very well but we knew we were fairly close to some coral heads about 20 metres ahead - however, the 20 knot offshore wind was holding us off. We tried the time honoured trick of motoring ahead with fingers crossed and then with a series of bangs and graunching noises the anchor came free. The strain on the chain, shackle and anchoring system is enormous but fortunately nothing broke and we completed the anchor retrieval with great relief.
The course for the first 40 miles was 340 true and we set the double reefed main and small genoa as usual. The wind strength had been forecasted to be down and so it proved. The angle was good too and we started having a good relaxing sail on starboard tack on a broad reach. Speed was between 5 and 6 knots and we were looking forward to it continuing. Alas, as is usual on this coast it did not, and the wind started dropping and going further south - right up our derriere. We couldn't alter course enough to compensate due to reefs in the way and the need to eventually arrive at the southern end of the Adolphous Channel. And we had to keep our speed up so as not to arrive in the dark at the end of 60 miles. So, on with the engine and we motorsailed. Jean kept the home fires burning with offerings of soda water, spaghetti with bacon, and cheese and crackers as the day wore on.
Then, when we were getting towards the southern start of the Adolphous Channel at about 1300 the wind really started piping up over 25 knots (still up our bum) and the tide was still against us. We hadn't realised it would make such a difference off Wyborn Reef but our speed through the water was 6 knots and over the ground 4.5. We knew when the tide should start turning based on Torres Strait tides but it simply didn't and our speed remained down and as well the wind against tide effect was creating a very nasty sea. We rolled abominably (scuppers under) and took some water into the cockpit - however, we persevered. But it seemed to be getting worse as we entered the Adolphous Channel proper and the tide was not obeying the timetable!! So, a hasty last minute decision to abandon the planned stop at Mt. Adolphous Island and instead we steered straight for Cape York itself. Finally into the very welcome lee of Albany Island and then on and around Eborac and York Islands and Cape York itself into an anchorage right in the lee of the cape at 1800 just as the sun was beginning to set. Again many thanks to the chartplotter giving warning of a reef to starboard and a deep boil hole (22 metres) created by the strong tides as they rip through here.
We managed to anchor between the two in just 7 metres on a secure mud bottom with no worries about security for the night. As we speak Cape York lies just a quarter of a mile ahead of our bows. We have finally beaten the Coral Coast - not bad for a couple of 66 year olds on a vintage Gauntlet 1930's designed timber built monohull. The euphoria was great and we celebrated in style with a couple of whiskies, a glass of NZ wine and some dinkum Aussie "Happy Camper" meat stew together with reconstituted dehydrated mashed potato. A long 11 hour day but, although tired we are not exhausted. We are certainly looking forward to some fresh vegies in Seisia 15 miles away where we shall be tomorrow.
So far so good and we are well aware that more challenges lie ahead but we think we have beaten the major one so far.
More fascinating stories to come on www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
With lots of love
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxox
P.S. It's now 0130 on the 4th. and have just been woken by high winds hitting us on the beam as we are held sideways by the ebbing tide. No sea to speak of but jobbly. We are just very thankful that we left Boydong when we did even though conditions just south of here were very unpleasant. Can't sleep but feeling exhausted. We're just hoping that the Gulf of Carpentaria crossing treats us reasonably kindly because the Coral Coast has been a challenge and a trial. What with high winds and now up here strong tides it's not a holiday camp. We're supposed to make the 15 mile passage to Seisia in a few hours and will have to leave here by 0700 at the latest to have a rising tide with us as we enter Seisia. We'll re-assess the conditions at 6. However, we would be in the lee of the coast all the way. Couldn't get any propagation last night so will try sending this now and then hopefully get some sleep!
----- End of Original Message -----

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Seisia Lat. 10 degrees 50.9' S Long. 142 degrees 21.8' E

We arrived into the anchorage off Seisia village at 0930 yesterday morning (the 4th.) after leaving the Cape York anchorage at dawn to catch the west setting flood tide. Up here you go with the flow, or you don't go!!
We motorsailed in generally lighter winds with the old Ford just ticking over at 750 rpm making water and power. We were being pushed along at over 7 knots with the current and watching the chartplotter and depth sounder as there are extensive shoals along the coast. We came around the north side of Possession Island at over 9 knots over the ground with tidal whirlpools all around. Couldn't stop if we'd wanted to.
Possession Island was named by the Great Navigator (Lieutenant James Cook R.N.) and it was where he took possession "of the east coast of New South Wales from 38 degrees latitude to this place" in the name of His Majesty King George III in 1770. There is a monument to commemorate the event and we saw it as we scooted past! When this formality was completed Cook and H.M. Bark Endeavour left Australian waters through the Endeavour Straits for Batavia where full repairs to the ship were carried out after their encounter with Endeavour Reef some months earlier. They had been very lucky to survive that encounter on what is now Queensland's east coast. They managed to float free of the reef by jettisoning all their canon to lighten the ship and, pumping furiously to keep the water at bay the made it into the Endeavour River where present day Cooktown is. There they spent 48 days repairing the damage with the ship careened on a sandbank. There were a number of historical firsts. It was the first time that Englishmen had spent more than a few days ashore and it was where the Kangaroo was sighted for the first time as well as contact being made with the local Aborigines who evidently appreciated the obviously peaceful intentions of the visitors. Cook's exploits were amazing when you consider that he had only his own resources for navigation, extremely accurate charting, scientific and botanic observations, victualling the ship and carrying enough materials to effect any necessary repairs. His was an awe inspiring achievement and very poignant for us who have sailed these same waters. We have found it difficult enough and we have the benefit of all the modern technology available with GPS and chartplotter and well detailed paper charts.
The entrance to Seisia was relatively straightforward once we picked up the leading beacons and buoys leading into the anchorage. However, the last half mile or so was across the tidal current so we had to constantly watch our position and course to stay clear of the shallow water on each side. We went past the wharf and then rounded up into the current to drop anchor near "Settlement", "Backchat", "Forty-two" and "Pedoga". "2XS" came in today from Horn Is. Seisia has a wharf and an attractive beach and is serviced weekly by the Seaswift barge from Cairns. The beach is definitely NOT for swimming though as crocodiles are prolific - although we are yet to see one. We do not tarry on the water's edge when getting in or out of the dinghy. There is a strong current running parallel with the beach - west on the flood and east on the ebb. Ashore there is a camp ground which is very popular with 4WD trekkers who make the journey north from Cairns. Jean met 2 women who drive all the way up here from Geelong every year! The camp ground has a very acceptable cafe and also clothes washing facilities, so today we lugged our considerable quantity of washing ashore and after it was washed Jean hung it out on their clothes line. Had to buy some clothes pegs as we'd left ours on the boat. There is a small but well stocked supermarket and a service station where we have been buying 40 litres of very expensive diesel each time we have been ashore. It's quite a business carrying 4 x 10 litres of fuel plus the washed washing back to the yacht in our little 2.2 metre rubber dinghy through the tidal currents and very strong winds. And all the while being mindful of the large scaly things with teeth.
The local service station owner is quite a character and has been very kindly giving us a lift down to the beach with our fuel. He also took Jim into Bamaga on a fruitless search for another watermaker booster pump so we have seen a bit of the countryside. We'll just have to hope that the present one keeps going until Darwin. Bamaga is bigger than Seisia and only about 15 minutes drive away. It has more shops and a local hospital. But all characterised by the all pervading red soil and dust - which is actually bauxite from which aluminium is smelted. The bauxite that is shipped to Tiwai Point at Bluff comes from this area. The 2 bauxite shipping ports are Weipa, about 160 miles south of here on the eastern side of the Gulf of Carpentaria and Gove on the other side.
There is a normal strong wind warning (25-30 knots) in force at the moment so we will stay here until things die down - if they ever do. Then the strategy will be to sail in the lee of the peninsula down almost as far as Weipa before heading across the 300 miles to the other side. The accepted wisdom is that the further south you go the easier will be the passage, so we hope that's correct. Hopefully we might get away about the 9th when we might expect another weather window - but they are short lived around here. Even the locals say the constant wind is unusual so here's hoping that normality returns soon. At the moment it's 2230 and the wind continues at up to 20 knots in the anchorage.
More fascinating news in a day or two.
Cheers and lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean xoxoxo

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Saturday, 1 June 2013

Boydong Cays Lat. 11 degrees 29.1' S Long. 143 degrees 01.0' E

We copied our email to the Cairns Chart Agency to the blogsite (tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com) which contains details of the anchorage here. It certainly should be well capable of providing the respite we needed on the way to the top. It's a relief to find it is actually quite a reasonable anchorage as it's not in any of our cruising guides and we could not be absolutely sure. If it had proved otherwise, we would have had to carry on to Mt. Adolphous Is. (another 58 miles) which would have meant sailing tonight and arriving around 11 or midnight tonight. Not good arriving anywhere in the dark but Adolphous is a fairly easy approach so would be doable; the biggest problem would have been us and tiredness.
We had a good sail from Shelburne with the wind angle just tolerable for comfortable downwind sailing. The wind averaged 22-25 knots and the old girl fair hooned along achieving over 7 knots a lot of the time except for about an hour when we had to bring the wind dead astern (with a preventer on the main) to clear a reef which was inconveniently situated. Certainly the combination of double reefed main and the smaller genoa has proved to be a happy one in these conditions which might abate a little for tomorrow. But the wind is coming up again 24 hours later due to a low now in the Arafura Sea and then again as another huge high drifts slowly over the Great Australian Bight. This one is even more intense than the last one so sailing this coast will remain a challenge. At least by then hopefully we'll around the top and in Seisia.
Crossed fingers we hope that the watermaker keeps working - so far so good.
Boydong is a series of reefs within the Barrier Reef and 10 miles off the coast which is the usual flat featureless topography so typical of the Cape York Peninsula. And we are anchored just north of the largest of them. There is a lovely sand cay with azure blue water all around with patches of brown and light torquoise denoting reefs and shallow patches. We must be getting blase because it's all a bit ho-hum and we won't be going ashore because not enough time and it's more important to get some rest. The wind is still up around 20 knots and the wind generator is screaming around. Still it means we don't have to run the engine so much. None of these anchorages could be described as tranquil however. The wind still screams over the top of the cay.
That's it again for now; we're off at 6 am tomorrow. We're looking forward to Mt. Adolphous because it denotes the top of this pesky coast and it will be a good sheltered anchorage for once.
Lotsaluv from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxo

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Anchorage Boydong Cays

Hi Matt,
We had a good sail from Shelburne this morning except for having to have the wind more or less dead astern to clear the gap between Hannibal Is. and Viking Reef. We don't carry a spinnaker and vintage designed monohulls tend to roll their guts out! Still, once through there we had a much better wind angle and hooned along. The wind never really went below 22-25 knots.
The approach on 032T NW of Wizard reef was no problem and we dropped the sails well out from the beach on the northern side. We had a bit of fun finding somewhere to drop the anchor. We edged in close until we were in 10 metres and dropped it there roughly 2/3 of the way along the beach from the end of the spit to the rock outcrop. There were some small bommies close by but weren't a problem. We let out 40 metres of chain and the boat finished up in 20 metres depth, so there is obviously a steep drop-off. However, we have a Rocna anchor which we have great faith in and so far we are holding firm. The co-ordinates here are Lat. 11 degrees 29.051' S Long. 143 degrees 01.025'. There is a slight jobble coming around the sand spit but we think it's better than Morris Is. was in that respect.
Once again, many thanks for your help. We'll be leaving here at 0600 tomorrow for Mt. Adolphous Is.
Regards,
Jim and Gina
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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Leaving again tomorrow

No rest for the wicked - we always seem to be on the move. But it's a case of necessity - we have to be in Darwin at the end of this month and there's still 900 miles to go. At 5 knots that's a long way.
We had intended to break the trip to the top by spending a night at Boydong Cays which are sand islands surrounded by reef and they are part of the inner Barrier Reef. Then we heard that the anchorage was a little deep which would make anchoring difficult so that introduced a quandary in our minds. Then we had a brainwave. We emailed the Cairns Chart Agency where we originally heard about the cays from a former trawler skipper. They then emailed us back to advise the the depth was 12 metres which is well within our capabilities. If it's over 25 metres then it gets a bit fraught with all that weight of chain to get back up.
We've spent a quiet day getting a few things organised. We had become concerned about the watermaker again as the boost pump is making an on and off noise which sounds like a bearing. It isn't repairable. It's the small electric pump which supplies the main high pressure pump. Still, when we ran it today the noise was much diminished and, while it does seem to be developing a problem, we can only hope that it lasts the distance to Darwin. We may be able to get a replacement at Seisia or Bamaga but we wouldn't hold our breath. Anyway, we are in the water conservation mode and the tanks are full right now so we should be OK.
The weather forecast is for slightly diminished winds (at last!) so we might have a more comfortable ride tomorrow. Maybe they'll go from 30 to 25 knots - whoop-de-do!! The high that's given us all this grief has passed over NZ so you all down there would have had a pleasant few days. Up here it's been anything but. At least 4 rain squalls hit us during last night which necessitated closing hatches and listening to the wind scream for 20 minutes or so. Always sounds worse at night.
Our bible for sailing this coast is Alan Lucas's "Cruising the Coral Coast" and it has so many helpful details of anchorages. However, in it he describes this coast by saying "people sailing into this area should treat the exercise as an adventure, not as a means of having a relaxing day's sail". And this is very true and sums up our feelings. It's a means to an end. That doesn't exactly mean an endurance test but it's not exactly swanning along in 15 knots downwind supping on G&T's and Champagne either!! We are seeing some very remote places as where we are now, but very few would meet any standards for inclusion in a tourist brochure. Add to that the abundance of creatures which would kill you as soon as look at you and it's hostile. Last night none of us wanted to launch our dinghies to go visiting because this is an ideal crocodile habitat. Then ashore there are Death Adders and Taipans, both of which would despatch you into oblivion in a very short time. Taipans are very prolific on the Cape York Peninsula. And even if one was foolish enough to go swimming, at least in the summer the jellyfish pose an absolutely lethal threat. Especially the Irukanji. Perhaps I (Jim) am paranoid but coming from gentle little NZ one is entitled and perhaps even justified.
This is an experience which no doubt we will dine out on for years to come and is unlikely to be repeated. That's not necessarily from choice , but rather from circumstances which will preclude us from coming back this way. The weather and the prevailing SE winds are the main reasons for that.
So, we are definitely taking Alan Lucas's advice and we are having an adventure.
Lotsaluv as always from us..............
Jim and Jean

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