Overland travel and ongoing life in Medellin

Hi to all,

Hopefully all in the pink, as always......................

We'll start with one observation of the 24/06, which is Corpus Christi Day - one of 18 observed National Holidays here in Colombia in 2019. Makes life awkward at times - just when you think the week is all planned, up comes another holiday! We know what Corpus Christi literally means, but just why a religious date, which no doubt has significance for a sizeable number of Colombian people, should disrupt the life of a nation is beyond us. However, Colombia is a very staunch Catholic country and no doubt these traditions will endure. 

For your interest, here are all the observable holidays for 2019 - 

Jan. 1st. New Year's Day

Jan. 7th. Epiphany

March 25th. St. Joseph's Day

April 18th. Maundy Thursday

April 19th. Good Friday

April 22nd. Easter Monday

May 1st. Labour Day/May Day

June 3rd. Ascension Day

June 24th. Corpus Christi

July 1st. Sacred Heart

July 25th. Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul

August 7th.Independence Day

August 19th. Battle of Boyaca Day

October 14th. Assumption of Mary

November 4th. Columbus Day

November 11th. All Saints Day

December 8th. Feast of the Immaculate Conception

December 25th. Christmas Day

Wementioned in the previous blog that we had contacted our local travel guide, Daniel Castano, again with regard to a car trip to see areas reasonably close to Medellin - still in the department of Antioquia, of which Medellin is the capital. We had been trying to get some sort of overview by consulting Google Maps, but it all became just too confusing, so we arranged for Daniel to come to our apartment to make the recommendations. We had discussed all this with Linda before returning to Colombia, and as we had not seen these places ourselves either, it became a priority to arrange. 

This he duly did and arranged a suitable itinerary. Ground travel in Colombia, especially at the moment, is not all as it might seem, as there are major road works in many areas where old one lane country roads are in many cases being transformed into 2 or 3 lane highways. Some of the country is unbelievably steep, but there are major bridges spanning ravines and even tunnels being built to cope with the terrain. In many areas there isn't much left of the original road so that can be rough and slow going. And in many places there is only one lane, so you have to stop and let opposing traffic through before it is free to proceed. Sometimes these enforced stops can be as long as 20 minutes, so much patience and time allowance is needed. Two other issues are that there always seem to be slips - some major which close whole roads and others not so bad. Also there are a number of potholes in what appear to be otherwise well sealed surfaces and often these holes are concealed in a patch of shadow - making them very hard to see. One needs one's wits about one and Daniel was excellent in that regard. Some of these holes are capable of breaking an average suspension.

Day 1 - 04/06. Daniel arrived at Jardines in a near new VW car at 1.30 to pick us up for the 2 hour trip to Santa Fe de Antioquia - the first capital of Antioquia Province. The capital now of course is Medellin. Santa Fe was the 1st. settlement in Antioquia to be settled by the Spanish in the 1500's largely due to the fact that it is on the Cauca River, which in turn flows into the Magdalena which empties out at Baranquilla on the Caribbean Coast. So, a ready-made watery highway.  It was also the site of gold mining, even back then. So, there was a ready made route up these river valleys from the coast. The maltreatment and forced conversion to so-called Christianity of the local Indian tribes, together with the slave labour of these people, by the Spanish is of course well known and, together with venereal and other diseases brought by the Spanish, resulted in a horrific loss of population of much of these original native peoples - who for the most part were peaceful and no match for the Spanish, whose main objective was straight-out plunder and theft.

On that note, there has recently been discovered the wreck of a Spanish treasure galleon which had set sail from Cartagena back in those days. She was sunk by the British Royal Navy, whose objective was to deny the cargo to Spain, which would have enriched the Spanish Crown which desperately needed such loot to fund their European wars. With modern technology, it is now possible to salvage the treasure which consists mainly of gold, emeralds and silver. Unbelievably, the Spanish government is insisting that the treasure belongs to them as it was being carried on a Spanish vessel! Ignoring entirely the fact that it had all been stolen with the aforementioned enforced slave labour of the local Indians. Not sure what the final outcome of that has been, or will be, but hopefully the Colombian government will tell them where they can stick their claims!!

The drive from Medellin through the northern suburbs and on to Santa Fe was characterised by the aforementioned road construction and in a very short distance we descended over 3,000 feet to Santa Fe. This brought home the reality of just how important altitude is in establishing the climate of a region when you are within tropical latitudes such as Medellin at 6 degrees north and just over 5,000 feet in altitude, which consequently gives an equable temperate climate. But Santa Fe at almost the same latitude was definitely tropical. The hotel was comfortable and only about NZD30 per night with a pool, but inexplicably all the lavatory seats had been removed!! Very disconcerting. 

Day 2 - 05/06.In the morning the pool was supposed to be open at 0700, but the cleaner did not finish until about 8 and then we needed breakfast before the departure. Nothing happens on time in Colombia!! We also needed to visit the "gold centre" in town where Jean bought 2 silver sticks for her Colloidal Silver making operation and Linda bought several exquisite silver earrings made from intricately worked silver wire. The whole process was explained to us with Daniel's translation and it was traditional and fascinating to learn about.  

Soon we were off again heading towards the coffee town of Concordia  - roughly in a SW direction from Santa Fe. Another 2 hour drive during which we followed the course of the Cauca River before abruptly ascending to Concordia at over 6,000 feet. A very steep switch-back road and we climbed through the cloud at around 5,000 feet. Fantastic vews of very steep country - mostly cultivated but no animals as they would break their legs on the vertical hillsides! At over 5,000 feet we were finally in coffee country with the coffee bushes also on impossibly steep hillsides. Jim remarked that the coffee pickers would need one leg at least 12 inches shorter than the other. Soon we were booked into the La Porra Hotel at only 135,000 COP (NZD63) per night for 2 rooms. Very comfortable and unlike Santa Fe, hot water was on tap for the shower due to the much lower temperatures!! The hotel was on a steep road almost impossible to walk up or down (especially with the knees!) and we were picked up by the owner of the coffee farm, Santiago, in his VW Amarok. Took us on some very steep farm tracks reminiscent of the "road" we had into Paroa Bay in the Bay of Islands 50 years ago - except MUCH steeper. Some of the views out the window were vertigo inducing!  We saw everything from coffee growing on the bushes to the whole process of sorting and grading for quality to drying and packing their premium product which they exported under their own name. A premium product indeed and not one which you will find in Starbucks!! 

Back into town eventually and we found a pleasant local restaurant where we ate before falling into bed exhausted.

Day 3 - 06/06. Up, up and away for breakfast down the road and then to the main coffee clearance warehouse where we found Santiago again. All explained during our hour long visit. This was where local farmers brought their crops and it was all checked for quality standards by thrusting a long stainless steel implement into each sack several times and then withdrawing it with samples of beans which were then put through stringent quality control checks. The final payout for each farmer was then made on the basis of the quality assessment and using a benchmark base figure based on the current world coffee price. 

It was also explained to us that Colombia's beans were of the Arabica variety and vastly different and superior to Brazilian beans which were another variety altogether and were the inferior type of coffee (caffeine) to be found in so-called energy drinks such as "Red Bull" - which is actually owned in Thailand!! That stuff is poison!!

Then, with some regret it was time to leave Concordia for Jardin - 2 hours south. We had really felt at home in Concordia as we were treated to very detailed and intimate explanations covering the whole coffee producing business and we are now feeling quite like Paisas - people of the country.

We descended once more to the Cauca River - an ear-popping experience. Then along the river which is fast flowing and makes a spectacular sight. Beautiful rolling farm country in the less steep bits and many Brahma cattle - all in superb condition. Then another climb, but not as high as Concordia to Jardin (pronounced hardeen). The name means "garden" and to some extent it lived up to its name, but not to the degree that we had been expecting. However, Daniel had arranged for us to stay at a Finca-type property (Hosteria el Paraiso) just on the outskirts of Jardin and it was beautiful with traditionally decorated buildings and even its own chapel all set in spectacular gardens. Even a restaurant on-site, but it was closed at night (!), so we went into town for dinner. However, breakfast the next day was available and quite good - although we cannot get used to the traditional Colombian breakfasts with Arepas (a type of corn based pancake) and eggs. We'd have given anything for some bacon with pork bangers!!!  

Day 4 - 07/06 0n to Jerico (pronounced herico). On the way we stopped at a trout farm, of which there are many in Colombia. Trucha is a national delicacy, but the farmed variety is fairly insipid in taste. Still, it was good to see an actual farm which consisted of many concrete pools cascading down a slope. Water was constantly pumped to the top which meant that there was constant running water simulating the effect of being in a fast flowing river.  

Jerico is supposed to have more churches than any comparable municipality in these parts, but the main church in the village square was a total disappointment. The original burnt down some years ago. Normally these churches are pleasing to look at but this one - all severe brick - was an absolute eyesore. Whoever designed it should have been taken outside and shot!!! It dominates the town square in a very unpleasant and dominating way - not at all attractive. Still, apart from that it was a pleasant town and we stayed in a near new Hotel Saval which was very comfortable. And we have a photo of Jean cuddling a donkey in the main square!! That night we found a restaurant in a very old house completely open to the sky with the central part completely unroofed. It seemed to be a part of another church just across a narrow road. We found a tiled Parques board on a table. This is a game that had been brought to the Caribbean by Indian indentured workers/slaves working in British sugar plantations. Somehow it found its way to Colombia where it is played exclusively - not in any other Latin American country. It is related to Ludo and can be configured for 4,6, or 8 players. It's based on dice, but also contains many sophisticated rules and strategic decisions - unlike Ludo!. So, it's a game of chance tempered with a great deal of skill. Daniel schooled all of us, so there was him, Linda, Jean and yours truly. Needless to say Jim won!! But only with much schooling from Daniel. A great night during which we drank mulled wine which was delicious. We must get a board so that we can play in our apartment!

Day 5 - 08/06. Bit of a slow start this morning due to the effects of the mulled wine last night! Jean and Linda had decided to go on to the hot pools at Termales and then Salento and Armenia from where they were to fly back to Medellin. Yours truly had opted to travel by bus from La Pintada back to Medellin. So Daniel drove to La Pintada from where Jim caught a mini bus which was a good trip climbing to 8,000 feet before descending into Medellin through La Estrella and Sabaneta. Very pleasant one and a half hour trip, even though the road was windy most of the way. Daniel meanwhile drove Linda and Jean to Termales where they enjoyed the pools but the hotel left much to be desired. It was expensive and the "service" apparently was shocking. Daniel gave the hotel a rocket which was well deserved by all accounts!  

Daniel dropped Jean and Linda near Salento and they continued into town by local bus. Salento is a "coffee town", but very touristified - unlike Concordia. Nevertheless, it is very picturesque and they enjoyed their time there. Good for shopping and not expensive. Saturday market in the town square. They stayed in a typical Colombian hotel just off the square for a typical Colombia experience. The next day they travelled to the city of Armenia and spent the night of the 10th. before taking an early morning fight back to Medellin.

Good to all be back home and quite tired after an intensive few days, but well worth it. It was great for Linda to have had the experience just before returning to NZ and for us also as we will be re-visiting at least some of these places. We are starting to look seriously at newish used cars so that we will be more independent and capable of "poking about" under our own steam. Price limit is COP 35,000,000 (NZD 16,500)  - cars are quite a bit dearer than in NZ. Hopefully we won't need to pay as much as that. There is a 2011 Mercedes B-class (done 69,000 kms) at that price level which we are waiting to see.

Sadly Linda left for Auckland on the 15th. after 5 weeks with us and her departure has left a void. She has unfortunately not been well since about a week after arriving back in NZ. But she has had a great and varied experience here in Colombian with meeting our friends and going to places not normally visited by tourists. Along with the living in Medellin - shopping, taxis, supermarkets and IV vitamin treatments!!

We have been spending our time hunting for an antique bookcase and chest of drawers. We have been frequenting 2nd hand and antique shops all over Medellin. Clara kindly took us to the Junin area in downtown Medellin where there are a number of antique shops. Fascinating eclectic area which we want to re-visit, but in the end non productive as the following illustrates. We had a slightly hilarious time with an antique chest of drawers which looked moderately ok in the shop, albeit that every drawer was packed with junk. We couldn't even find a space to deposit said junk until the owner belatedly provided several plastic bags to contain the items. Then it was a mission to get the chest out onto the street where Clara was to meet us to uplift in her car the chest and another item she had bought. However, after all that, and with the opportunity to inspect the chest in daylight, we discovered that it was junk also. Drawers didn't fit and the top looked as though it had been made for something else. But in the meantime we had paid for the chest on our Bancolombia card and they couldn't reverse the charge, so we finished up getting the cash back - COP 300,000 (NZD 142). Then Clara very kindly decided to drive us to Itagui in the south of the city through heavy commuter traffic. This is where there are many furniture stores and after visiting 3 or 4 we found a chest that looked good and would do what was needed - but at 3 times the price!! Still, we were happy and once more eternally grateful to Clara. Still looking for a bookcase!!

We have also been searching for suitable plant containers - and plants - for our balcony. So, after much fruitless searching (a la furniture saga) we finally found 2 terracota pots and a yellow/orange flowered Bougainvillea. It should look good once it has climbed up a trellis of light marine cordage (bought at All Marine, Whangarei!). These are much less vigorous and thorny than the common purple variety. We also had an orchid and a Bromeliad from before, neither of which seem very healthy, but we are persevering.

We have also finally and with much angst, solved all the issues surrounding our Sura medical insurance and have even enrolled with the best ambulance service (EMI) which of course we hope we never need, but that's how it works in Colombia - not like St. John which just comes on demand. The total cost for all this including full medical which also includes elective surgery at almost no extra cost, is NZD89 (COP 189,000)  per month for both of us. Not bad for two 72 year olds and the medical treatment here is world class. We were fortunate in being referred to Angie by friends, who after our "broker" was a breath of fresh air. She was able to answer all our questions, enabled the premium payments on-line and was instrumental in joining us up to the ambulance service. Fantastic and a load off our minds as the whole saga had been going on since December last year with no resolution in sight!

Finally, we are transferring our investment funds to Colombia after much careful thought and examination of alternatives. The Colombian real estate market is showing steady constant growth, mainly due to the fact that Colombian banks follow very conservative lending practices - unlike banks in NZ, or most "western" countries for that matter. So, the likelihood of booms and busts, both historically and in the future is much reduced. However, we haven't yet decided whether to buy another apartment to let, or to pursue other forms of investment which also appear attractive. One thing we do need to keep in mind is that we will in all probability be renewing our visas in 2 year's time and we need to follow investments which will qualify us on an investment basis. And because of these conservative Colombian lending practices, it is possible in some instances to see returns over 10% p.a. quite safely. And with the continuing exodus of North American baby boomers from the US and Canada, demand for property remains at a healthy level. These people are like us - might own or have owned debt-free property in their home countries but not enough income to live in these increasingly high cost societies. Countries like Colombia (and also possibly Mexico, Panama, Costa Rica, Belize, and Ecuador) with cost of living approximately one third of NZ's and other attributes such as climate, offer real alternatives.

Finally, the usual political comments. Trump continues to go from strength to strength, while the Dems seem to repeatedly shoot themselves in the foot. Long may it continue!! More disgraceful Dem behaviour - 

Kamala Harris, a Dem presidential hopeful, virtually accused Trump of being a paedophile the other day. Some defamation suits need to be issued, notwithstanding that libel and defamation laws in the US are notoriously weak.

Twitter apparently has said that they will no longer allow Trump tweets which are critical of his opponents -  only those non critical. Whatever happened to free speech? This is clearly an escalation of the media's hate for Trump and their determination to do whatever it takes to prevent his re-election. They are in bed with the Deep State and their vitriolic behaviour is reminiscent of Nazi Germany. Just look at Antifa. Let's hope that the current investigations surrounding events leading up to and following Trump's election in 2016 will uncover the already exposed treasonous and straight-out dirty dealings on the part of the Clinton campaign, the FBI, the CIA and the Dept. of Justice at the highest levels. They should all be in jail and it gives fresh impetus to the slogan "lock her up"!!! If you can, we urge you to watch Fox News which is the only reasonably truthful news organisation in the US. Their correspondents - Mark Levin, Sean Hannity and Laura Ingraham are particularly worth watching for their insight and professional investigative journalism. In NZ you need Sky to watch it but you can get these interviews on foxnews.com also.   

And dear old Britain and Brexit - thankfully it looks as though Boris Johnson will be the next Conservative Party Leader - and thus PM for now. However, we mustn't count our chickens. Boris should take them out of the clutches of Europe on October 31st. as has been promised, tell the EU to stick their 39 billion pound "divorce" payment and just get on with life. It does exist after Brexit.

Well, that's it for another blog. We'll look forward to your news as always....................

Much love from Medellin...............

Jim and Jean