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We headed north up the coast setting courses between coral reefs until the navigation became a bit clearer and we set sail. We practised poling out the genoa and, although no doubt Peter Blake wouldn't have given us a pass mark, we managed quite creditably, thanks to David and his advice and Noel for setting things up in the first place.
We had arranged to meet "Giselle" in Baie de Tanle and as we came past the reef on the end of the point we could see Mary and David on the beach. We anchored a bit further on just past "Giselle" and then there wasn't much time before getting ready for a BBQ on the beach!! Who said cruising was cruisy??!! WE had had a great day with a gentle breeze and generally beautiful conditions with tourquoise water to sail through. Absolutely glorious and we are incredibly lucky to be having such experiences. We BBQ'd some veal steaks and it was great sitting on the beach with the dying embers and a bottle of wine!
This morning we left Tanle and sailed out to Ilot Ouanne which is a small sand island surrounded by coral reefs almost on the barrier reef itself and just inside the barrier reef Passe de la Gazelle, and which had been recommended by Phillippe. We eventually anchored as close to the coral as we could and then went ashore on this little jewel of an island. We had a schnorkel which wasn't so great because of the wave surges from the Pass which wasn't far away but enjoyable nonetheless. As a result there was a lot of sediment stirred up which reduced visibilty. We walked around the island - took all of 30 minutes and then we left for Baie du Croissant on the mainland. Had lunch there on the boat (but no croissants!!) as it was a bit rolly in the SW wind and then took our leave of "Giselle" as they were going back to Tanle to meet their friends on "Lifou" who had had engine trouble in Koumac. We expect to be all together again from tomorrow from Poum north.
We arrived in Poum after 10 miles or so and have to say our first impressions are of disappointment. It's visually unappealing as you sail in but a good sheltered anchorage at position: lat 20 degrees 13.550' S long 164 degrees 02.073' E. We had read in the cruising guide that there was a hotel and restaurant so went ashore feeling hopeful. However, apart from some delightful children we met on the road, we encountered surliness and a feeling of downright hostility. Added to that was the fact that after making enquiries it appeared that the hotel was some 15 mins away - by car!! And the weekly market is held only on a Wednesday which was disappointing as well as we had been looking forward to the possibility of buying some more fresh produce. The question of getting there was one thing and then the notion of possibly having to walk back all that way in the dark with some of the Kanaks we had seen about the place wasn't in any way acceptable so we returned on board for dinner. This is the only place so far that we have felt serious anxiety about security and so have re-hoisted the dinghy on deck for the night and chained up the outboard. Also hoisted the ladder back aboard. All we need now is some of Captain Cook's poop mounted cannon loaded with grape shot!!
We think on balance that if you treat the Kanaks with courtesy you can generally expect a reasonable reception but the unfortunate fact is that drug taking is rife here (Marijuana and Kava - and alcohol) and the result can be quite ugly. So, one has to be quite careful as results of encounters can be quite unpredictable.
We will try again tomorrow and explore the place a bit in daylight to see whether there are any redeeming features for Poum!!
Keep watching this space and www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
Cheers and love from us...........xoxoxo
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