Hi
We arrived back in Noumea this afternon after 3 fascinating days exploring the island. To give you some idea of the scale of this place - the main island is some 200 nautical miles (370 kms) long and 30 nautical miles (56 kms) wide. There are very steep drop offs down to the ocean floor around 4000 metres very close to the coast on both sides so one could be forgiven for thinking that life could be a bit precarious here! But the place has been here for a few years now so is probably going to be here for a few more! As a matter of fact it was once attached to NZ and Australia as part of old Gondwanaland and much of the flora and fauna (particularly in the south) is very similar to NZ.
Day 1 - Friday 12th. We had arranged to hire our car through Noumea Yacht Services here at Port Moselle and we walked over there at 0800. However, we found that the car had been hired to our neighbouring yacht for the previous few days and was far from clean! So, we borrowed their vacuum cleaner and sorted out the interior - no time to deal with the exterior which was liberally coated with red mud. Only here in NC!! Still, it was a nearly new diesel Peugeot 206 and was a good trusty vehicle; also economical which was just as well as diesel is almost the equivalent of NZD2 per litre. A little strange getting used to driving on the right again but the experience of a month's driving in Europe a few years ago came to the fore and soon we were hurtling along the toll road north of Noumea with the best of them! The country between here and Bourail (our first night's stop) is fairly uninteresting and quite arid so we were glad to get to La Foa in time for an early lunch. We stopped at the Banu Hotel where we were booked to stay during our return and were well sustained. This establishment has the reputation for the best food in all NC but we will elaborate on that later.
We then carried on to Bourail which is a farming centre but a very dusty uninteresting town. Still, it was an eye opener for us to realise just how important agriculture is here - all sorts of horticulture and deer and beef farming. We even saw onions growing - almost thought we were back in Pukekohe!! About 10 kms south of Bourail we stopped at the NZ 2nd World War Cemetery. It was especially interesting for Jim because his 1st father-in-law, Bryce Tomkinson had been in the NZ Army at Bourail during the war and because he had then been too old for combat duty and also because he had been a photographer (and later had his very well known retail camera business in Auckland), he had been involved in recording and photographing the grave details of NZ'ers killed in battles further north. We became quite emotional as we walked between the rows of graves and viewed the brief details - most were well under 30 (a few as young as 19) and many had no known grave - "known unto God". The land for the cemetery had been donated by a local citizen and stood on a spur of land looking out over a peaceful lushly wooded valley. It was immaculately kept and a credit to whoever was looking after it. A fitting last resting place for those men and women but such a waste. Let's hope it never has to happen again.
We later visited the Musee de Bourail and they had an extensive exhibit devoted to the wartime presence of the NZ'ers. It seems that there were 5 NZ Army camps in the vicinity of Bourail - all inland of the town so couldn't be sure which one Bryce was attached to. NZ'ers are held in high esteem around here. We also looked through a book devoted to early settlers and read the history of Bourail which was in the early days a French penal colony as so many of these places were - e.g. Australia. Makes one very humble to realise just how much human history is involved in places such as this. And the conflict with the natives (Kanaks) - much like NZ.
We then eventually found our hotel (El Kantara) out at the beach - La Roche Percee whose main claim to fame is an impossibly angled rock (La Roche) which looks as though it is about to fall into the sea. All our accommodation had been booked by Chloe at Noumea Yacht Services and, although it wasn't 5 star, it didn't break the bank which is all too easy in this place!! We ate in town and then found our way back out to the beach in the dark for a good night's sleep!).
Day 2 - Sat. 13th. We had intended to visit the annual Foire de Bourail (Bourail Agricultural Show) but were short of time although it would no doubt have been very interesting with rodeo events and all that went with it. One doesn't normally associate these types of things with the average Pacific Island.
We continued north up the west coast as far as Kone 111 kms away. Still fairly uninteresting country but then we turned inland heading for the East coast. Very pretty drive through rugged country indeed and the vegetation growing lusher by the km as we progressed. Drove over one or two fords rather than bridges although fortunately nothing was in flood. Many hairpin bends which were a challenge constantly remembering to keep right! Fortunately very little traffic. As we approached the coast and further north it was like driving through a garden - roadsides well trimmed and individual properties likewise. Although fairly modest housing everything was so trim and neat. Turned north at the coast because we wanted to get as far as Hienghene but couldn't find anywhere to eat or even buy anything. We luckily had bought some Chorizo Saucisse and cheese before leaving Bourail so that sustained us but by great good fortune we happened upon a roadside BBQ where they were cooking Brochettes de Cerf (venison kebabs). They were delicious and we bought 4 for 200 francs apiece (about NZD2.90 ea.). Wished we had bought some more!! We then continued up to Hienghene which is a very pretty little village on a tidal river and a small yacht marina. Then turned around reluctantly and headed back south along a very pretty coast to Poindimie where we had our 2nd. night's accommodation booked at the Hotel de la Plage. You could be forgiven for thinking this was actually on the beach but in fact was quite a bit back. However, it was comfortable and didn't set us back NZD500+ per night which a swanky resort on the beach was charging. We ate at the resort which was good but not value for money. Nothing in our experience in NC is - with the possible exception of the Hotel Banu in La Foa.
Day 3 - Sun. 14th. We drove south of Poindimie with the intention of going as far as Houailou then Kouaoua before heading across the island again to La Foa. We had been warned not to go to Houailou or any further south as there had apparently been some problems with the Kanak locals but we thought it was worth the risk. In the event we saw nothing to give rise to any concern. In fact most of the locals waved although many looked quite fierce!! There were no roadsigns from Houailou south - probably destroyed by the locals - so it was with some trepidation that we continued because the road took us up very steeply into what was either an existing nickel mine or a recently worked over one. Being the weekend there was no work going on but it certainly seemed from the earthworks we saw that this was all country that was being currently worked as an opencast nickel mine. For a while it wasn't clear whether we were on the right road or not because it was incredibly steep and narrow and we were driving through a veritable moonscape of black red and ochre country with nothing growing. Truly an amazing drive with the outside temperature dropping to 18 degrees as we gained altitude. Very very steep with low gear descents the prudent approach. And breathtaking dropoffs if one put a foot (or a wheel) wrong.
Soon however we were descending again into lush bush and then heading across the island towards Sarramea and La Foa beyond. Very windy and up and down but extremely scenic. Good if you aren't in a hurry. We had been told that Sarramea was worth a visit and after another frustrating time with the French lack of information (signs) we came upon the l'Hotel Evasion. An amazing find in the middle of nowhere. It's a fairly new establishment - would be a good place to bring one's secretary for the weekend being something of a retreat!! We had a great lunch there as we were famished after driving through the nickel country - we had Canard (duck) with gratinated white taro and it was wonderful.
Then well sated, we continued to La Foa. The Hotel Banu is right on the main road in La Foa but behind they have some quite new self contained cottages and we stayed in one of those. Very comfortable and we had a well deserved kip after arriving. Then a shower to revive us and into the restaurant. What a treat. Apparently it has the reputation of being the best eaterie in NC and that is well deserved. We had a bottle of Alsace Gewurztraminer and garlic prawns. Sooooo much garlic and 12 prawns each - just as well we had the same as each other!! By the time we had finished it was all we could do to stagger off to bed. Just under 24000 francs for the whole stay incl. dinner, wine and cooked breakfast the next day which equates to approx. NZD350. Well worth it and the first time we would say excellent value. If we ever get a chance we would return here. Without a doubt. A very friendly family run pub going back several generations. In a word - wonderful. It doesn't look like much from the road but inside - c'est merveilleux!!
Day 4 - Mon. 15th. Today was a public holiday so we took care to buy a few provisions from the local Supermarche in La Foa in case we couldn't find any eateries open along the way. In the event a good precaution; we are getting wise to the ways of the French! Before leaving Jean spoke to a group of Aussies who we'd seen the night before and it turned out that they knew the hotel proprietor and came there regularly for deer stalking, which he organised. They had already bagged 2 stags and showed her the bloody heads! She wasn't fazed having been used to her brothers' exploits with pig hunting.
We took a reluctant departure from La Foa and headed south to Boulouparis from where we once again headed inland and across to the other coast at Thio. This apparently was the site of the 1st nickel mine in NC but it was something of a disappointment as being a public holiday everything was FERMEE (closed)! However, we did find a nickel loading port just south where the ore is loaded by conveyor directly onto the ore carrying ships. Then we came back across the island and down to the village of Tontouta where the international airport is located 60 kms north of Noumea. We had lunch at another very friendly little hotel and they lady proprietor gave us some citronella (lemon grass) as an infusion for Jean's tea.
Then reluctantly the final stretch to Noumea. 150 francs for the Payage (toll road) and 3000 francs to fill the car with fuel and the ride into town was a breeze. Left the car at Noumea Yacht Services office and walked around to the boat where all was well. On the way we met Kim and Lars off Sume who we knew well from Whangarei. They are about to depart back to NZ after having spent about 3 months here in NC.
Nearly our turn to depart also so will be in touch again with our news it develops.
Cheers, best regards and love
Jim and Jean (Gina)
P.S. We hear it's been snowing in Auckland - whatever next??!!
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