Langkawi - the 1st 9 weeks after our sojourn away

Hi to all,

Once again we hope this finds y'all in the pink.

Our lovely old girl was fine when we got back after our 2 months away; maybe a little lonely, but she perked up no end. Makes us feel guilty about abandoning her on the fickle marketplace of secondhand yachts. But we always say that if she is lucky enough to attract a couple 20-30 years younger than us, then she will have an extended lease of life. In fact wooden boats, if they are well maintained (and that's actually not difficult) will last indefinitely - long past fiberglass or metal.

We've cleaned all the mouldy decks and generally got her shipshape again - not that there was much to do with Paul and Sheila looking after her.

Lots to do now with pulling all the loose ends together with the Medellin apartment purchase; this has involved late night phone calls authorizing various payments. It's interesting how the legal processes work in Colombia compared with NZ. In Colombia the purchaser pays all costs such as commissions and extraneous payments authorized by the vendor but they are all credited towards the property purchase, so effectively the vendor pays but a little convoluted compared to the NZ system.Takes a bit of getting used to it but it's all happened. And all this against the backdrop of our NZ bank's bureaucratic procedures surrounding getting funds out of NZ, not to mention that we had to withdraw funds from our offshore investments. These days you can't sneeze, let alone move funds from NZ to the USA to Colombia without answering a plethora of questions. It all gets extremely tiresome and it's worse for us because we have no scanning or printing facilities on the yacht so we have to re-email to the marina to get the necessary done.

It was all made worse because, probably as a result of our not telling the bank of our recent travel plans which resulted in them blocking our credit card briefly in the US, part of our internet banking was disabled, just at a time when we really needed it! Still, it's all been resolved since.

Then we've had computer problems. We had installed Windows 10 while still in Miami because Microsoft had instituted a deadline after which there would be an installation charge. Perry assisted and all was suitably backed up. And everything worked just fine until about 2 weeks after we arrived back in Langkawi. Then it just crashed and wouldn't boot up.So we took it to our friendly computer shop run by a very affable and helpful Chinese called Timothy! He fixed the problem and we are back again on W8.1! He said there was a problem with "firmware" which, although the computer was only about 16 months old, was a problem as, according to him the firmware was not compatible with W10. However, we understood from Perry that Windows always interrogates a computer before proceeding with any upgrades to make sure that there are no systemic problems like that. So, it's all a mystery. 

Then we decided to fly to Penang (only a 35 minute flight) for Jean to have a chest x-ray and to visit the LBM boatyard with a view to hauling out there in November. After we'd landed at Penang, a diminutive Chinese woman who could barely reach the overhead lockers made a wild lunge to get it open and the laptop fell out! After a bit of an issue with getting onto the wifi at our hotel, it started working and we thought all was well, but after arriving back at Langkawi, the same problem arose so we took it back to Timothy who discovered that the wifi adaptor had become unplugged, no doubt when it hit the deck. Lucky no further damage was done. These computer issues all at a time when we really needed internet access to further the Medellin purchase. Anyway, Penang...........

We flew into Penang in the morning and were met at the airport by a representative of Limbongan Batu Maung Boatyard and driven to the yard (close to the airport) where we met 2 young Chinese guys (one the son of one of the owners) and had a fruitful discussion as well as being shown around the yard. All seemed good, except that we will have to be careful of depths when we eventually do haul out. And also cross tidal currents so slack water will be important. Then they drove us to our hotel (the Museum Hotel in George Town). The hotel has been wonderfully restored and seemed to be almost totally original. High ceilings, wooden creaky floors (!), open air area behind columned porticos where breakfast was served and an impressive foyer. And very reasonable - low 60's NZD. On the first full day we went to the Island Hospital where Jean had a consultation with a Thoracic/ENT specialist who, after an x-ray confirmed that Jean has bronchial asthma. Not serious but just needs awareness and the use of a "puffer" from time to time. At least we can be confident now that there is nothing nasty lurking about to strike her later.

We had 3 days altogether in Penang which was longer than we've had in a while. Usually it's in and out to get a 2 + 1 Thai visa from the Thai Consulate there. This time there was no such pressure and we had a very pleasant few days just poking about George Town. Found a new restaurant and visited a Chinese one that we had first been to back in 2010.

Then came time to fly back to Langkawi. Normally this is straightforward, but there had been a substantial deterioration in the weather. Thank goodness we weren't on the ferry; one in fact actually turned back, which is rare. The Air Asia aircraft was very delayed getting into Penang from Langkawi due to the weather, but then we duly took off back to Langkawi again. However, as we were on final approach into Langkawi International (and we'd seen Rebak Is. on the port side), the power suddenly went on and we climbed steeply out of a rain squall. Then we stooged around Langkawi for half an hour or so in a fair amount of turbulence before making another abortive bombing run!! That didn't work and by then we were running low on fuel so we returned to Penang. By now it was getting well into the evening and we were contemplating another night in Penang at Air Asia's expense, but no; Air Asia wasn't wearing that, so off we went again. This time the bombing run was perfect  - no ack ack fire or anything and we were soon on the ground again. So, that ended our latest Penang experience. However, we must make mention of Jean's experience. We were separated on the flight because of Air Asia's peculiar seating allocations but that didn't matter. We see enough of each other as it is on the boat in a fairly cramped environment!!! She was seated next to a Saudi woman in a full black burqua. Only the eyes showing. That time was the height of the Saudi tourist diaspora to Langkawi which occurs every year. Being Jean, she struck up a conversation with the lady who eventually removed her burqua and it turned out she was a maths. and science teacher at a girls school in Saudi. If Jim had been sitting there there would have been NO contact at all. Her brother and his wife were sitting just in front and they were all very pleasant. Jean thoroughly enjoyed the conversations and ignores the physical barriers of the burquas.

An interesting aside - a NZ woman who lived in Saudi Arabia with her husband has written a book about attitudes to women in NZ. She mentions the customary separation of men and women at BBQ's and other gatherings which we're all familiar with no doubt and the pervasive attitude of relegating women to the domestic duties. Although this is improving, there is still this underlying lack of respect. However, in Saudi society, although oppressive to women in our eyes, they do respect their women for their defined roles in Saudi society as mothers and for their intellect in parts of NZ. She told Jean that she removes the burqua and wears jeans and T-shirt when teaching at the girls' school. A subtle distinction maybe, but nevertheless a difference and a significant one. Let's hope NZ continues to develop along the right lines and not as per the Donald in the USA!!! 

We must comment again about Malaysia - so different from vibrant and progressive Colombia. Nothing happens on time and when it does happen it's like the most inefficient process you can imagine. Just like NZ would be if it was run by the northern NZ Maoris (Ngapuhis). Not surprising since this is where they originally came from - we have commented on this before. People will no doubt accuse us of racial bias but right now in Malaysia there is outright and blatant racial and religious discrimination. Chinese/Peranakans and Indians who have been here for generations are frozen out of most government activities and benefits. They can't get places for their children in universities and they pay more than Malay/Bhumiputras in import duties when they buy a new car for example. It's disgraceful and these are but two of the examples of blatant racial discrimination that are commonly practised here on a daily basis. On top of that are the unbelievable disclosures of "financial irregularities" (read outright theft) from the Malaysian Sovereign Wealth Fund known as 1MDB. Enough said about that, except that the governments of the US, Switzerland, and Singapore are right now conducting criminal investigations into funds movements in and out of 1MDB accounts and have indeed frozen several 1MDB bank accounts in those countries. These "irregularities" involve many millions of US dollars. In fact it is now claimed by the US Dept. of Justice no less, that 3.5 BILLION US DOLLARS has been outright stolen from 1MDB and the Malaysian PM and other high ranking politicians are implicated up to their necks.

It's a tragedy for Malaysia and it is ruining its financial reputation abroad and impacting against its disadvantaged citizens at home The Malaysian ringgit is plummeting which of course helps us with drawing funds in NZD and USD. Enough said on that sad and vexed subject - otherwise we could find ourselves imprisoned for daring to criticize the government!! They've said it's disrespectful to criticize the government - otherwise you won't go to Islamist heaven!! We wonder what would be the reaction in NZ if Key & Co. uttered similar platitudes!! 

Apart from all that, we have ben wrestling with our refrigeration (not working thanks to sheer incompetence a few months ago in Thailand). See upcoming advices from us on the Noonsite website. We had been facing sheer intransigence on the part of Cirrus Refrigeration in Phuket and so far have employed a local guy to fix their substandard welds and get the freezer at least operating. The fridge was affected by faulty components or faulty installation and we are still embroiled in a fruitless argument with them for replacement of the components. The cost here is around NZD500. We've told them that their attitude is disingenuous at best and blatantly dishonest at worst. We will never get any work done on the boat in Thailand EVER AGAIN and we will make sure that as many fellow owners as possible are aware of that fact. Our cutlass bearing issue and the costs to  us of that fiasco (140,000 Thai Baht - NZD5,600) are another case in point. We were refunded 30,000 THB (NZD1,200) but that hardly scratched the surface.

We have obtained the refrigeration components from NZ in the end (one third cheaper than Phuket and delivered to Langkawi!). They are due to be re-fitted in 2 day's time and then the fridge needs re-gassing and then, lo and behold, we will have a working fridge and freezer once more - no thanks to the cowboys in Thailand.

We have decided to haul out at Penang (LBM) in November and visited the boatyard recently as above. Compared with the lackadaisical attitude on Langkawi  it is a breath of fresh air. We'll be there early to mid November. Watch this space. 

We have enjoyed being back here though, despite all its frustrations. We are getting around (we hire a car for MYR50 per day which is NZD17) and have met some interesting people. There are Nad and Mila - he is a semi retired French trained doctor and they have had many fascinating adventures. He works part of the year on La Reunion (a French island in the Indian Ocean) and they have many thousands of miles of ocean passage making under their belts - including getting dismasted twice! Then there are Brian (an American from Texas originally) and his Chinese wife Chuan. They were going to settle in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia but have become disillusioned with many things going on here - racial discrimination against Chinese, and the general slide into corrupt government among many others. They are shipping their boat to Florida and going to live in North Carolina; not sure that that's a good idea looking at where America is going. Makes us feel better and better about leaving and going to Colombia. 

We are getting non essential items off the boat in anticipation of a sale (soon?) and have 2 large suitcases (about 30 kgs ea.)  currently in storage here. The yacht has risen up about one inch on her lines!!

Finally there is the issue of the American Presidential elections. Either you are for Trump or against Trump? No mention of Clinton, and we think that's essentially what it comes down to. Certainly we would not want to be voters in the US and faced with that very poor choice.

With lots of love from us.............

Jim and Jean

s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Langkawi

Malaysia  

    

Gajean out to lunch in Miami with Perry...........

Return to Langkawi and our lovely old girl. Days 63 - 71 29th. July - 6th. August

Hi to all,
Well, our long sojourn to Turkey, USA (Miami) and Colombia is over and we are now back on the boat on Langkawi. We arrived on Saturday (06/08) and then spent most of the day waiting for our cleaned aircon which was continually promised hour by hour. We had already emailed them twice to remind them of our return date. We were getting anxious because we didn't want to spend a night without it; however, it finally turned up about 5.
We had spent the last 4 days in Miami (since the last blog) in some sort of hiatus emailing Colombia re details of the purchase and generally sorting through the finer issues. One thing which annoyed us somewhat was that apparently it is common practice to agree on a figure and then put the transaction through at a lesser value. This is so the vendor can avoid a certain amount of capital gains tax (10%) and this was not explained to us. It came out of the blue. The tax on this at 10% would amount to around USD1300. We expressed great concern at this non disclosure and eventually the agent generously offered to compensate us through their own commission. With our faith completely restored, we will use the offer to create the servery from the kitchen to the dining area, so all's well that ends well!
We've been swimming in Perry's pool which is a good swimmable length and very pretty under the coconut palms. Perry has had the gardening contractors to take away excess coconuts because if they fell on anyone's head (particularly the small Peapods) or indeed either of the cars the result would not be pretty. It's by no means unknown for people to be killed by falling coconuts - they are quite dangerous.
Jean went to more swimming lessons with the Peapods twice and Jim swam every day in the pool. Otherwise trips to Wholefoods and/or HomePro to get things for the new house. There have been rats or Raccoons in the ceiling and so off we went again to get some wire netting to block up suspected entry points.
It's all worked out rather well because Perry's start date with Microsoft has been put back to the 8th. August when he flies to Atlanta for signing on/inductions, etc. So the timing couldn't have been better all round. It's given him time to sort much of the house and also time with us and Jean in particular. Tracie continues in her job with Brightstar and Rosa remains her exuberant self, in spite of a badly sprained ankle not long before our return. Jim decided to try cooking some Brussels Sprouts in the same way that he had had them at Wynwood before we went to Colombia and so plenty of orange juice and zest of orange. Tolerably good but still not up to that standard. However, we now have some idea and will work on refinements over time.
We didn't get back to Wynwood due to other things happening but maybe it was just as well as the first homegrown outbreak of Zika virus in the continental US has occurred in that neighbourhood. Apparently, and not far from Perry and Tracie's new home either. However, we feel very sceptical about the whole thing and suspect that it's another scare developed to keep the population at large in fearful thrall, just like chicken flu and a host of other scare tactics in recent times. If you have the inclination read www.articles.mercola.com and you will not be happy!!
All too soon, the sad day for departure (02/08) arrived. Our flight was not due to leave until 2100 so we had all day to pack and we taped up the carton we had bought to transport all the goodies for the boat and anything else that wouldn't fit into our small cases. Chain, shower drain water pump, and solar powered vent as well as bronze screws and an electronic flare supposed to render obsolete the necessity to carry conventional flares which expire beyond their use by date, and which are fiendishly expensive to replace.
We arrived at Miami International courtesy of Perry and accompanied by Carter who unfortunately was having a "terrible twos" episode! Checked in and all was well, said another sad goodbye to Perry and Carter and went through to the departure area where we had a tolerably good meal for USD73! That's NZD104!
At this point we must have a final comment about American food - or what passes for it. With the notable exception of the meal in Wynwood before we went to Colombia, the food ranged from awful to just OK. Even macaroni cheese at the upmarket supermarket of Wholefoods was tasteless and STODGY. It's one of Jim's favourites and he was remembering the same dish in El Poblado in Medellin which was arguably the best macaroni cheese he'd ever had. And the Colombian empanadas compared to the Miami variety - 'nough said. Sorry Perry and Tracie; we don't mean to be super critical and the meals we cooked at home were great, but American food is largely overpriced and definitely underwhelming. Wynwood is an isolated gem by contrast and well worth braving the Zika virus to experience again.
We then made our way to the gate for boarding only to be told that the flight was delayed due to weather conditions. Certainly there was a thunder and lightning storm raging. In the end the flight was delayed 3 hours to midnight but we weren't overly concerned as we were to have had 10 hours on the ground at Istanbul and so this was reduced to only 7! The flight was pretty much full but we had bulkhead seats which made it more tolerable.
There were only a few bullets flying around at Istanbul and one or two explosions but we just kept our heads down and survived. ONLY JOKING. You wouldn't have known there was anything untoward although we never left the airport as we were in transit. We had an excellent and reasonably priced meal which made us again wish we were staying a few days. We will definitely come back to Turkey (maybe on the boat if we ship her next year), and a visit to coastal areas in the Sea of Marmaris or the Black Sea coast would be highlights. Anyway, we needed to get back to the boat so we pressed on. The Istanbul - Kuala Lumpur leg was about the same length (11 hours) but was on an Airbus 330 which is a better aircraft than the 777. More legroom and more comfortable seats and the food - obviously loaded at Istanbul was way better than the rubbish out of Miami - which wouldn't be hard! Thick cloud over northern India so didn't see a thing and then ran into turbulence over the Bay of Bengal. Not too severe though, so no worries! Jim doesn't like turbulence; keeps thinking the wings might come off.
Then it was finally back in Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur International seems designed to frustrate, even though there appeared to be almost no aircraft or people there compared with Ataturk Istanbul. First you deplane and walk miles keeping expecting to come to the Immigration counters. Then inexplicably you arrive at a train station with obscure signage which seems to indicate that you need to board the train to get to Immigration, Customs and baggage claim. In another terminal altogether. And so it proved. We headed to an area of "foreign passports" which had lesser queues but were peremptorily waved to the other side with ridiculous queues and then told to go back whence we had come, only to observe the same nitwit waving us back again! We took no notice. Took an age to get through Immigration; like most of Malaysia it seemed to be mired in its own inertia.
Anyway, we were finally through and very relieved to find that our box (carefully packed and addressed) had arrived also. Grabbed it off the carousel and soon got a taxi to take us to the hotel. It was the Vistana in KL and was very pleasant. We went across the road to a Chinese restaurant which the hotel recommended and had a paasable meal, but nowhere near up to the same standard as Wonderland in Langkawi. We were exhausted by now having travelled nonstop (including time on the ground) for 36 hours, and so were very glad to have a welcome shower and get to bed.
We had been contacted by Angela and Leonard, the very pleasant young couple we had met on Langkawi some time previously and they very kindly invited us to dinner the next night with Angela's parents as well. They had come down to KL from their home in Taiping for a wedding that weekend. They took us to an outdoor Malaysian restaurant where there were all sorts of eateries and we had a great time talking to them and enjoying the food. Then it was back to the hotel and another fitful sleep as we had to be up early for our 0955 flight to Langkawi. All went well and soon we were landing at Langkawi after the 1 hour flight from KL. A final comment on local inefficiency - in the baggage claim area there was an electronic sign proclaiming that baggage from the KL flight would be coming through on carousel no. 2. There are only 2 carousels there. But lo and behold it came through on no. 1! Not at all serious or even inconvenient, but one can only shrug one's shoulders and laugh hysterically!
Then a taxi to the RLYC marina and "Tiare Taporo III". She's a bit mouldy on deck but that was expected but down below everything was fine and we were soon unpacked and feeling exhausted again. It will be about a week probably before our body clocks are fully programmed to Malaysia time. The freezer needs re-gassing again ahead of a proper fix under warranty so we have more or less no food on board and went to Wonderland for dinner where we were greeted as long lost old customers and Jean fell asleep at the table! The restaurant was as busy as we've ever seen it with 99% Chinese locals and tourist groups. We estimate somewhere between 200 and 300 diners. It was an entertainment just watching the staff who are amazingly efficient in a seemingly chaotic environment.
Then back to the boat courtesy of an elderly family member of the family that owns the restaurant. Only charged us 10 ringgits and then finally to bed - our long sojourn finally over.
Now the agenda is cleaning the boat and completing the property purchase in Medellin. Then to lease it until we are able to return and start a new chapter in our lives.
Con mucho amor desde nostros.............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Royal Langkawi Yacht Club
Pulau Langkawi
MALAYSIA.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

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More photos

P7240138 - entrance to our apartment building

P7240139 - swimming pool

P7240142 - balcony

P7240146 - kitchen

P7240147 - living room - kitchen on the right

P7240149 - one of the 2.5 bathrooms

P7240151 - master bedroom

Difficult to visualise as the apartment is vacant but it is over 1100 sq. ft.

More photos

P7100070 - Tango dancing at the Museo de Antioquia - a wonderful afternoon

P7100072 - sculptures at the Museo de Antioquia

P7120076 - a view of Medellin from Pueblito Paisa showing the preponderance of red brick

P7120079 - interior of the church Pueblito Paisa, Medellin

P7140083 - the church at Guatape in the main square of the town

P7140085 - the square Guatape

P7140086 - our room Guatape - 1st. floor

P7140089 - Lake Guatape from the water

P7140098 - the drug lord - Pablo Escobar's bombed out house at Guatape after the Colombian Airforce had finished with it! Circa late 1990's.

P7140109 - town square Guatape from our balcony

P7150110 - Guatape street scene with brightly decorated shop fronts

P7150112 - Our bus Guatape to Medellin

P7160113 - strawberries for sale El Poblado, Medellin - beautiful and typical of the produce generally

P7160115 - street scene El Poblado

P7170120 - fresh fruit and vegetable market Sunday morning in El Poblado

P

More photos!

P7010027 - Gajean with the electric car - again! Couldn't keep her away from it.

P7010029 - Nana Rosa with Carter

P7020034 - wildlife in the back yard

P7050035 - Carter, Nash and one of the neighbours' children

P7050039 - Perry and Jean at Government Cut - the ship entrance to Port Miami

P7050040 - Jean and the Old Man of the Sea at Government Cut

P7050043 - Southern end of the famous Miami Beach with 20 million dollar plus penthouses in the background

P7050044 - ship entering Government Cut

P7060050 - the famous murals of Wynwood where we had a delicious Brussels sprouts meal!

P7060053 - and again

P7060055 - and again

P7060054 - sculpture at Wynwood

P7060060 - restaurant where Jim had the famous Brussels Sprouts!

P7060062 - not sure which is the more georgeous - the XK120 or Jean??!!!!

P7060061 - another shot of the 1949  RHD XK120 sans Jean

Some photos of our recent travels:

P6260006 - young Nash on a picnic at a beach on Biscayne Bay

P6260007 - ditto for Nash's older brother Carter

P6260008 - front lawn of old house with inflatable pool

P6270011 - Gajean disporting herself in the pool with Nash

P6270014 - as above!

P6280016 - Jim and Perry on our jetboat outing on Biscayne Bay

P6280018 - Jean on the jetski!

More to come!