Hi to all,
Well, we finally arrived at Yacht Haven, northern Phuket yesterday and berthed at 1500 after waiting for slack water to enter the marina. They were more spooked than usual about the tidal current because only the day before a Frenchman hit 2 other boats when coming in after being told not to. Now he is apparently claiming that he didn't hit anything! Anyway, to recap..................
Well, 3rd. time lucky so it is said and we finally left the RLYC on the 23rd. Jan. with many mixed feelings. Regret that we won't be seeing many of the people that we have come to know well during our time there but on the other hand relief that we are finally moving on and not vegetating on the boat as we've seen happen to quite a few others. We certainly wish all the very best to all the office staff (Effa, Tini, Shakila and the marina manager, Azrin). Then there's Paul and Sheila, without whom the marina would be greatly diminished. Hafiz at Starbucks and everyone we have come to know at the Arts Café and Wonderland - our favourite Chinese restaurant where they got to know us and always said "no MSG!!" as soon as we walked in.
But it was time to move on and so we sailed out with many a backward glance - it's a bizarre and strange feeling knowing that in all probability one will never see the place (Langkawi) or the people ever again. We crossed the border just north of Langkawi and sailed partially up the west coast of Koh Tarutao but the forecast wind had changed and it had become a bit of a lee shore so we retraced our steps for about a mile and anchored in a recommended anchorage on the south side facing Langkawi. Had a good and peaceful night before resuming the voyage. Next morning we raised anchor at daybreak (now 1 hour earlier as we were in Thailand) and headed north but suddenly the wind came up to over 25 knots which spooked us as we hadn't been sailing for many months. So we stopped and anchored again on Tarutao's west side and had breakfast. During that time the wind dropped substantially so we up anchored again and headed off. Staysail and one reef in the main which was appropriate because when we were about 20 miles south of Koh Lanta we saw black clouds approaching from the east and sure enough just as we were approaching two Thai trawlers pair trawling, the squalls hit us with driving rain. Couldn't see a thing but we had already taken the precaution of moving well away from the trawlers. 27 knots this time and prolonged. Resorted to spilling wind from the main, but then in time the mini storm moved on and we resumed the track in light winds. We had been motorsailing for 15 hours before we finally dropped anchor at the NW end of Koh Lanta at 2100 absolutely exhausted.
Much later start the next day (25th.) thank goodness because we needed to time our approach into Krabi for half tide or better. There's a long, shallow tidal river approach for which we had all the waypoints to stay in the channel and of course we had been there a few times before. Before long we were entering the marina which you approach up a short narrow mangrove fringed creek so that at times it seems that the mast will hit the trees! Then we were berthing, having contacted the marina on VHF to establish the berth number and whether port or starboard side berthing. This latter is important since it is necessary to prepare fenders and mooring lines well before entering. The marina staff were on the dock to wave us in and then take our lines. Garn who owns the Captain's Galley Restaurant, came down to the dock to greet us and it seemed strange after 3 years since we had been there. The first time we were there was in 2014 and it was then that we had an extensive refit after the voyage through Indonesia, etc. The boat also stayed there while we went to India where Jean had her double hip replacements at the SMS Hospital in Chennai (Dr. Vijay Bose). So, we've had an extensive connection with Krabi, whereas this time the visit was going to be relatively short. It was good to see Jack (the marina manager) and his wife Gay who runs the other restaurant. We also remade the acquaintance of Des Kearns and his wife, Ked who run Popeye Marine.
However, the marina and the hardstand was only a shadow of its former self with only about 12 boats on the hardstand and most if not all of those just there for storage. The marina was about 50% full. Prices have increased hugely (about the equivalent of NZD36 per day for us), whereas when we originally arrived, it was under NZD20. That's an 80% increase in 4 years. Absolutely unjustifiable and smacks of sheer greed. Unfortunately marine services in Thailand are all going the same way and the whole place will price itself off the market. By contrast Sicily is WAY cheaper. And the reputation of a lot of the work done over recent times has suffered (mainly due to engineering issues) so the net effect has been that Krabi Boat Lagoon is well under patronised. We felt very sad to see this. The best thing about the marina is the swimming pool which is superb and we certainly patronised that.
Jim's birthday was on the 27th. and we celebrated that at Garn's Captain's Galley. Had a very pleasant night with Garn's great food - as always.
We had 2 main reasons for initially coming to Krabi. First to clear Customs, Immigration and Harbourmaster, which we did on Monday. They don't ask silly questions about AIS as they do in Phuket. We have an AIS receiver but not a transponder. We'd arrived the previous Thursday afternoon. All went well, but we couldn't go to our favourite cafes (Easy Café and the Dutch Bakery) because, being Monday they were both closed. So we had a mediocre meal at another café on the waterfront which appeared to have changed hands because it was nowhere near as good. This was rapidly typifying Krabi in our minds. We also made a quick visit to Makro Cash and Carry for a few provisions. Interestingly there are Makros in Colombia as well - it is a Dutch company which operates in a few countries.
Second, we wanted to travel south to the city of Hat Yai to see Jia and his wife Julie. Jia was the manager of his family owned boatyard at Satun where we hauled out in 2015 and had been of inestimable help to us in a difficult situation where a lack of engine re-alignment at Krabi caused endless problems with our drive system. Jia had come to Langkawi with his engineer to get us back in the water so that we could get to Satun, Thailand which is only 25 miles north to haul out and fix the problems properly.
We hired a car from Budget at Krabi International Airport because it was fully insured throughout Thailand, whereas the cars at the marina are only insured in Krabi Province. They delivered the car to the marina and we left on Tuesday morning. It's over 300 kms to Hat Yai so it took over 4 hours but was a pleasant drive except for getting lost in Trang because the GPS said follow highway 4 but it appeared to come to a dead end in Trang so we had to backtrack to a bypass which took us on to Hat Yai. The road was generally excellent - 2 lanes in each direction, but with the generic Thai driving (tailgating and lane changing at ridiculous speeds) one had to be on one's toes! We arrived in Hat Yai and eventually with help from the GPS and telephone calls to Julie we arrived at the house. Once there they invited us to stay although we had not expected this. Their hospitality was overwhelming and included being taken to a restaurant overlooking the entire city and even a Dim Sum breakfast the next morning. Our room was very comfortable - ensuite, air conditioned and huge. We were very spoilt.
Jia's situation is comfortable but tragic as he is only 36 and has suffered a double stroke about 12 months ago. However, he has progressed inasmuch as he is now not in a coma and can respond to comments and questions by nodding or shaking his head. He has a fulltime nurse and his mother is living there too. He has the best of care and even homemade soup with all the best healthy ingredients which they feed him through a tube in his nose. He has a TV above his bed which no doubt helps in keeping him aware of daily news. They are blessed with their young son, James who is now almost 5 months old. Everyone talks to Jia and Jean spent some time doing the same.
The family were so good to us during our brief stay. They took us out to dinner at a restaurant on a hill overlooking the entire city and the lights were picturesque. The food was great as well and the piece de resistance for Jim was a deep fried pork knuckle. Such a treat after porkless Langkawi but of course not something to have too often because it's hardly a healthy diet! But Thai food is generally very healthy and great flavours. Jia's 2 sisters were there as well and we had a very pleasant night. The next morning they took us for breakfast to a Dim Sum restaurant just along the road from their house - so much variety of food we lost count. Then the same day we took Julie and James out shopping. Went to the Big C Mall and had lunch at the MK Restaurant there - this is a chain which we used to patronise a lot when we were in Krabi a few years ago. They have beautiful healthy soups. Then Jean wanted some Mascara so we went to the Central Festival Mall - the largest in Hat Yai. By this time getting quite good at navigating the Hat Yai traffic! She duly found what she wanted and then back home feeling fairly exhausted. We decided on an early night as we were driving back to Krabi the next day so, although we were invited to join the family at home for dinner, we graciously declined, having decided to observe a little of the Hat Yai nightlife, and we walked a short distance up the road to a small restaurant where we had a simple meal - then to a bar for a beer on the corner of their road. They had been concerned that the noise from the bar would keep us awake as it was only about 50 metres from the house, but we never heard a thing!
Another deep sleep - we sleep the best here in Hat Yai after being on the boat. Must be another omen for selling her. We had breakfast with the family - pork pieces, hard boiled eggs etc etc. Then very sadly it was time to say goodbye. We said our goodbyes to Jia and said we'd see him in Medellin and we were reasonably together, but when it came time to farewell Julie, James and the extended family we were in a bit of a mess and it was only after we had driven a short way and consulted the GPS to find our way out of the city that we regained some composure and carried on. The drive back to Krabi took about 4 hours and was uneventful - except for the usual Thai driving!! Back on the boat exhausted and sleeping well after some further provisioning in Krabi.
Next day was R and R and saying goodbye to Des and Ked. Des had sailed on the original "Tiare Taporo" schooner out of Auckland in 1964. Then ready to leave on the 3rd. Feb. We cast off about 2 hours before high tide and had a bit of a tussle getting out because this old girl goes where she wants in reverse and the propwalk was taking us in every direction but the one we needed! But these are things one just has to live with and once clear of the fairway we did a complete 180 and finally we were pointing the right way!! Garn and Maya both came down to see us off and once again it was a sad departure. The wind had suddenly increased as high as we've ever seen it at Krabi and we had a boisterous ride out and down the channel. Once clear we turned NW to head for the top end of Koh Yao Yai but the sea had become quite rough with a big fetch from the mainland to our port, so as we were also still quite jaded from the previous days, we turned into Ao Nang Beach and anchored there for the night with about 20 other yachts. Rolly at first but it settled down as the night wore on.
Then a dawn start again as we now had further to go than originally planned. Usual sail combination of staysail and single reefed main and sure enough up came the wind again but we were well set up and we had a good sail for a short time in flat water. Once more through some spectacular Karst limestone island formations and the wind more or less died so the old 1964 Ford trundled on without missing a beat. About 2 miles north of Yao Yai to avoid the extensive shallows there we then turned and headed SW to the entrance to the passage leading up to Yacht Haven. Uneventful and the wind very fickle so not much use to us, especially as we wanted to get in the same day. In the event, we had a good sail once we turned into the entrance - Yacht Haven is about 8 miles up. We arrived about 1300 as expected and then were told to wait for slack water at 1530. So we anchored and tidied the boat up. Then into the marina without incident. Dinghy provided to help us turn into the berth as the fairways here are quite narrow and the current can be strong. A quick shower on board and then up to the Deck for drinks with Graham and Lorraine - only one drink each because the prices have to be seen to be believed - definitely on a par with Auckland! We then repaired to Coconuts Restaurant just a short walk down the road and remade the acquaintance of the owner, Pen, who remembered us after 3 years! Pen is also the chef and when the restaurant is well patronized, which is often, she is like a lizard drinking! Excellent food, great conversation and then it was time for bed back on the boat.
Next day we met Graham and Lorraine on "Lorrigray" and travelled with them around to the fuel dock where they took on fuel before their departure back to Langkawi. Another sad departure. Life seems to be full of them lately!! We said we'd see them in Medellin once we were living there.
Yesterday we sussed out some brand new washing machines where you can do your own washing for 30 Baht (NZD1.30) for up to 10 kgs. Can't beat that anywhere. These machines are LG's on the side of the road just under a bit of a rough shelter, so don't know how they'll go in the SW Monsoon with rain beating straight onto them. Still, we won't be here by then. Also had a swim and generally a quiet day - which we needed. Somsak from Andaman Electrical came on board to check out our electrics - more about that later! Dinner on board - the last of the smoked duck from Langkawi and Brussells Sprouts cut in half and poached in Coconut Oil and fresh orange juice. Delicious.
Today (7th.) we are due to meet Chris from Sevenstar Yacht Transport to discuss the shipping arrangements for late March. It will be good to see him again.
To close, just a general comment about the weather. It's been unseasonably cool since well before we left Langkawi and that has continued up here. The mornings especially are very pleasant. Ironic considering that NZ has been hotter than here over recent weeks. Hopefully it continues as we have some work to do on the boat (mainly some deck caulking) ahead of the shipping date.
Phew!! - that's it - for now!
Hope all is well with everyone.
Lotsaluv from Jim and Jean and the old girl, "Tiare Taporo III".
Yacht Haven Marina (B31)
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