Posts
Hi to all,
It's a bit hard to know where to start as the final weeks of our NZ sojourn have all become a bit of a blur! We went back up to Whangarei for Pauline's 70th. birthday and said goodbye to the folks at Norsand Boatyard, Noel and Litara, and Hamish and Sara with whom we have spent many happy days staying. Thank you Hamish and Sara again for everything. Then last but not least, Monique who is a French doctor who sailed her catamaran from France a few years ago and returns to NZ every year to advance the extensive refit a little more as time and funds permit. She is an amazing person, full of joie de vivre! As we've said many times, this is the worst of this transient life - constantly saying goodbye to people and wondering whether we'll ever see them again.
Then back in Auckland and a round of visits to Jim's cousins, John Mains and Rosemary Morton. It seems more vital than ever to maintain these contacts as we get older. Also a poignant visit to Jim's history teacher at St. Kentigern College at Pakuranga, Auckland in the early 1960's - Alastair Whitelaw and his wife Joan - both in their 80's. Joan is very unwell but it was wonderful to see them both. Jim still has his old school reports with Alastair's brief comments at the end of every term!! Jim enjoyed history and that was in no small measure due to Alastair's teaching. A pleasant coffee break in Ponsonby with Jim's brother Alec and his wife, Linda who is much better after her recent serious and scary illness. Jim's 67th. birthday on the 27th. and celebrated with a leg of lamb and 2 of Tracie's friends on the deck at Nile Rd. That was on the actual day, but before that we went to a BBQ at Alan and Lorraine's (Tracie's mother and stepfather) at Red Beach where 3 birthdays on the 26th. and 27th. Jan. were celebrated. Jim's, Alan's and Grant's - a brother in law of Tracie's. Most enjoyable and Jim was the grateful recipient of chocolates and a bottle of wine. Thank you Alan and Lorraine.
It was Keith's (Jean's brother) 70th. on the Saturday before we were due to leave. It was held in the woolshed on the former Izard farm which Keith manages just south of Wellsford. A great time was had by all marking the great occasion and included alcoholic recollections of Keith at former times by various friends and family. The food was spectacular and the tables were fair groaning with it. On the way back to Auckland we went via Huapai and again met Kia and John from "Atea" - a NZ boat we had met back in Danga Bay. That night dinner with Lizzie and Wayne at St. Heliers - Lizzie is an old family friend of Jean's.
Then more visits with Jim's daughter Rozanne and Chris and their two beautiful boys, Harry Jonathon and Callum Patrick. Callum, like Carter James is changing almost daily as they do at 3-4 months. When we next see them they will be so different again. Harry is great at 3 and already showing promise at Soccer and Basketball. And then of course Carter - Perry and Tracie's new son and Jean's 1st grandson. More bonding - even up to the morning we left when Jean announced she was honoured to have had the chance to change the last poohey nappy! But all joking aside, such a wrench to leave. It was sad not to have seen Jim's other 2 daughters, Charlotte and Amanda again but Charlotte was back in Christchurch and Amanda has been flat out as a midwife delivering babies!! Babies have no regard for schedules.
And of course Heather who is living at Albany. So good to see her improving all the time and she made Jean a dress which has been worn more than once since we arrived back. We have been invited to Jean's nephew's wedding (Rakesh and Geraldine) in April but sadly by then will probably be up to our elbows in the maintenance refit in Thailand. Then of course there is Jiveen and Jenny's wedding in Scotland in May. So sorry we won't be able to be there for either happy event.
And then there were happy visits with Jean's other nephew Kagan and his sister, Rhea. Jean spent an afternoon with Kagan and Rhea was at a BBQ at Milford. All good catchups.
Perry took us to the airport and then we were on Jetstar for the flight to Singapore. Once again we had bulkhead seats so the legroom was reasonable.
This account of family and friends would not be complete without grateful and heartfelt thanks to Perry and Tracie. We intruded into their lives for the best part of two and a half months and used their cars for all our visiting and errands. We cannot say thankyou enough as without you our visit would not have been possible for the length of time and all the travelling that we did.
We again stayed at the Santa Grand in Chinatown while we took care of some banking business and then it was back to Danga Bay. We were picked up at the hotel and then had a seamless ride across the Tuas Bridge into Malaysia where we had sailed under back in October. The boat was fine, if a little dusty but lots of hosing fixed that. We fitted an original new Ford fuel pump obtained locally and then we were ready to leave. Provisioning and thanks to Gene and Sheri of "Reflection", we found Harvest Frozen Foods in JB. They had by far the best selection of meat at reasonable prices that we had seen since being in Malaysia and we bought a whole fillet of beef which they cut for us into steaks. Salmon, lamb chops and sausages completed the picture and all into the freezer which had needed re-gassing. Jim feels complete again with a full freezer!!!
We arrived at Port Dickson 2 days ago on the 1st. March after sailing 159 miles from Danga Bay, Johor Bahru. We left JB at 0700 on the 27th Feb. and negotiated our way south west down the Straits of Johor under the Tuas Bridge connecting Malaysia and Singapore, past Puteri and Raffles Marinas and down into the busy waterways off Singapore and the new port in southern Johor, Tanjun Pelepas. As usual the number of ships at anchor was mind blowing - huge container ships, bulk carriers and tankers of all types. All waiting to berth at either Singapore or Tanjung Pelepas. But no worries - we picked our way through the anchorage and were soon off the SW corner of Malaysia, Tanjung Piai. Another milestone for us and the old girl as we left the Straits of Johor and entered the Straits of Malacca (Melaka).
We motorsailed as the wind was variable and we needed to get to our first anchorage before dark - a total of 47 miles for the 1st. day to Pulau (Island) Pisang. The weather pattern seems to be reliable and consists of the NE Monsoon which increases in velocity during the mid morning up to 20-25 knots. This is a good wind direction for us (starboard beam) as our course is generally NW and the sea is flat as it is an offshore wind; however, around midday the wind would start to decrease and gradually go round to the west which is the local equivalent of a sea breeze. Again it would blow with some velocity and this suited us fine. Effectively we "went about" without changing course! The difficulty arose when anchoring in the late afternoon because the westerly created a lee shore. However, at Pisang we crept as far as we dared into the lee until we were forced to stop due to rapidly shallowing water. Still, the anchorage was OK albeit with some strong tide sometimes against the wind. We should make mention of the tide. It's effect gets less as one goes further north with a tidal range at Malacca of around 2 metres as opposed to around 3 metres at Singapore. Nevertheless it gives a very useful boost to one's progress as it seemed we had up to 2 knots extra when it was ebbing north. The southwards flow does not seem to be as strong. The other phenomenon which is very noticeable is the thick haze which means that the clear air we are used to in NZ is non existent, although it does seem to be improving somewhat as we head north. The coast is very low lying and very shallow so we are usually at least 5 miles off which means one cannot see the coast at all and even when approaching an island to anchor it is very difficult to discern any landmarks until closer than about 3 miles. Again thank goodness for GPS!! The source of the haze appears to be mainly smoke from Sumatra 30 miles across the Straits of Malacca but when the wind was from the NE there was smoke and no doubt industrial haze from the Malaysian mainland as well. We should also mention that the sun doesn't rise until 0700 and sets at around 1930 so it seems that Malaysia has its permanent daylight saving!
After Pisang the next stop was Pulau Besar - a further 69 miles. This was a big day but the tide helped us greatly. The chart shows shallow water all around Besar and we crept in very gingerly in water as shallow as 12 feet but as we started to get a lee from the westerlies the water depth increased most unexpectedly to over 50'! We eventually anchored in about 20' off a small village and in view of the historic city of Malacca some 5 miles distant. One could imagine the early Chinese ocean going junks, Portugese caravels and later the Dutch merchantmen in these waters over 1500 years ago in the case of the Chinese. The British were relative latecomers on the scene. We could discern some high rise buildings in the haze. However, the island was pretty and the anchorage calm so we passed a peaceful night.
So far we have been sailing on the inshore edge of the shipping lanes through the Straits of Malacca. This is accepted practice to avoid the large ships barrelling up and down there at around 15 knots but it does put us in the inshore shipping lane which is inhabited by tugs and barges and smaller coastal vessels. One needs to keep a good watch because sometimes it can be difficult and deceptive to ascertain just which course the tugs and barges in particular are steering, especially given the poor visibility. The main shipping lanes are strictly controlled and marked and southbound ships are nearest Sumatra to the west with northbound traffic on the Malaysia side. This is because the Rules of the Road at Sea state that opposing vessels keep to the right - not like driving on the left!
And then there are the local fishing boats and their nets!! They are the main reason why we do not want to sail at night. Several times north of Malacca we had to take avoiding action so as not to run over their nets but occasionally we had no choice and put the engine out of gear as we passed between the very hard to see net floats. This was to try to not get their lines around the prop but they always seemed deep enough as we haven't fouled any yet. North of Malacca is a very extensive area for oil and gas tankers to anchor offshore and discharge or load via undersea pipelines. The coast is for the most part too shallow for a conventional port although we did see some smaller ships alongside in one particular place. Once again there seemed to be an endless row of LNG and petroleum tankers and related shore facilities and it was fascinating to just observe the scale of operations. Makes Marsden Point look like child's play by comparison.
We continued north helped along by the favourable current until we came to Cape Rachado about 6 miles south of Port Dickson. Here we turned 90 degrees to starboard to approach the marina through a channel between the beach and a shoal just offshore. Coming around the cape there were whirlpools and overfalls created by the tidal current as it swirled around the headland and we attained the dizzy speed of 10.2 knots over the ground. The old girl has never been so fast in her life!!
We followed the line of beaches around with many high rise resorts evident. We had been in touch with the marina by phone and radio and the approach was easy and well documented (compared to some we could mention!!). We were met at our berth (C33) by friendly staff who took our lines and made the berthing a breeze. We had stayed here in a hotel overlooking the marina 3 years ago and so there was another sense of quiet achievement arriving here on the Tiare. The marina is surrounded by architecturally attractive condominiums and has a pool and excellent facilities including a bar and restaurant - all available to yachty guests to use. Weekends are busy here with holidaying families from surrounding urban areas (Kuala Lumpur is quite close), but during the week apparently all goes quiet so might be able to get some lengths in the pool! We are yet to clear Customs as we made the mistake of mentioning Port Dickson on our clearance out from Johor so now we'll have to get onward clearance from here to Langkawi. Strange since we are not yet leaving Malaysia but like Indonesia these places run on paperwork - although not so bad here.
Apart from Sail Malaysia's sailing directions, we have had further useful advice from Emma and Graham on "Lippylippy" and Ian on an Australian boat here in the marina at PD. We're accumulating as much advice as possible for the coast north of here because, especially around Port Kelang which is the main commercial port for Malaysia, it is very congested and tricky navigation between extensive shoals.
As always we'll keep you posted!
Cheers and love for now
Jim and Jean
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Sunday, 2 March 2014
Monday, 17 February 2014
Fwd: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
----- Original Message -----
To: "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>
Cc: "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Dave Baird (Gauntlet "Gemini")" <dave@zerofive.co.uk>, "Classic Yacht Assn" <joycetalbot@classicyacht.org.nz>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>
Subject: Fwd: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:15:18 -0000
From: zmq5985
----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Cc: "Murray & Jo Wilkinson" <norsand@xtra.co.nz>, "Westwind - Chris & Gilli Dicker" <westwind@live.com.au>, "Steven Worsfold" <smworsfold@msn.com>, "Sina - Noel and Litara" <yachtsina@hotmail.com>, "Rosemary Morton" <rosemary.morton@xtra.co.nz>, "Richard & Pauline McDonald - Ph. (09) 4356259 10 DipRd., Kamo NZ 0112" <phl@slingshot.co.nz>, "Raisen" <Rozanne.Donald@stcuthberts.school.nz>, "Perry" <perry_lanaway@hotmail.com>, "Kerrin Worsfold" <worsfoldfamily@gmail.com>, "John & Garry" <garrett.d.stack@gmail.com>, "Jane & Roy Vaughan" <janevaughan@orcon.net.nz>, "Heather Lal" <heatherlal53@gmail.com>, "Harold Kidd" <Harold@hklaw.co.nz>, "Hamish & Sara" <bluedogstainless@xtra.co.nz>, "Dennis Bouverie (" <dennis.b@xtra.co.nz>, "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>, "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>
Subject: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:09:13 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi,
During our rationalisation of our storage unit while in NZ recently we came across a copy of a book entitled "Out of Auckland" by Clifford Hawkins and published in 1960. The foreword is by Dr. R.A. Falla who was at that time Director of the Dominion Museum in Wellington. The book covers early European maritime history in New Zealand with details of many boats built in New Zealand up to the early 1900's. There is an extensive passage devoted to the "Tiare Taporo" and I thought it may be of interest. It covers pages 140-145 of the book and I am reproducing it here (with appropriate additions as appropriate):
Even with the coming of steam and auxiliary power, schooners continued to be popular with Island Merchants and Traders right up to the early 1900's. None of the old timers survive today but, out of Papeete, there still sails a schooner that immediately attracts one's attention. She is the "Tiare Taporo" which was designed and built by Charles Bailey Jnr. in 1913 for the islands trading firm of Messrs. A.B. Donald Ltd. Her first Master, Capt. J. Winchester was originally a 50% shareholder until his shares were bought at a later time by A.B. Donald - Jim's great grandfather.
Of 173 tons gross and with a length of 89.6 feet, beam 23.4 feet and depth 9.8 feet, she certainly made a fine addition to the fleet of South Pacific traders. Apart from the "Strathcona", which was lost on the North Minerva Reef on her maiden voyage in 1915, the "Tiare Taporo" was the last schooner to be built specially for the islands trade. "Strathcona" was built for the Pacific Cable Board as a supply vessel and was not intended for trading purposes. Bailey always expressed the opinion that she was his finest craft, and much has been said of her sailing qualities, but actually she was not afloat long enough to warrant all that has been said of her speed.
The "Tiare Taporo" got her name over the Donald's dining table, when a discussion arose over what their new vessel was to be called. It was jocularly suggested that as the firm received revenue from the trade in lime juice, the schooner should be named after the lime! From that suggestion came the lovely Tahitian words "Tiare Taporo" - the flower of the lime - as fine a name that could be bestowed upon any ship.
On fitting out, the "Tiare Taporo" loaded general cargo at the now non-existent Hobson St. Wharf, Auckland and after a trial run in the Hauraki Gulf, sailed for Papeete on 3rd. July 1913. Her master was a part owner and well-known identity, Capt. J. Winchester, and the mate, Capt. E. Lucas who some years later became the chief harbour pilot at Papeete. The schooner made a fine run of 11 and a half days to Tahiti from where she traded under the French flag, mainly among the Society, Marquesas and Tuamotu Groups.
During World War I the "Tiare Taporo" was fortunate in keeping out of the track of the German raider "Seeadler" and not being captured, as was the "Lutece", formerly the Auckland built "Gauloise". The "Tiare Taporo" did come into this episode though, when she sailed for Mopelia to pick up the marooned Allied sailors whose ships had been sunk by von Lucknow and left there when that raider and his crew made their escape. Von Lucknow had departed in one of the "Seeadler's" boats before the capture of the "Lutece" and was eventually caught up with on Wakaya Is. in the Fijis.
In 1918 the "Tiare Taporo" went up to San Francisco and loaded case oil for Auckland where she arrived on 8th. January 1919, 58 days out. After an overhaul at Auckland, during which the main mast was shifted six feet further aft, the schooner cleared port on 16th. February, to take over the Cook Islands services of Messrs. A.B. Donald. Being clear of trading in French territorial waters, the port of registry was changed from Papeete to Auckland. The "Tiare Taporo" had already become well known during her voyages out of the French port,but now much of the colour of the South Seas was to be woven into her career with Viggo Rasmussen as her master.
Born in Denmark, Viggo went to sea at an early age and arrived in Tahiti in 1896. He spent 10 years in French Oceania at various callings and came to know the islands and their people through his numerous trading schooner voyages and his pearling ventures in the Tuamotus. As with so many others who drifted down to that corner of the Pacific, Viggo found the life very much to his liking, and in Tahiti romance with a Mitiaro girl ended in matrimony. Taking his wife back to Mitiaro in the Cook Group, he set up as a trader there. But the call of the sea proved to be too strong for him and away he sailed in the schooner "Vaite". Trading in the Cook Islands, home was never far away, and the experience gained was invaluable to Viggo when he was appointed Master of the "Tiare Taporo" which replaced the "Vaite" because that vessel had been having difficulty in handling all of the work that was offering.
Known to Polynesians and Europeans alike as "Papa" Viggo, Rasmussen and his schooner became popular with all those whose business meant travel among the islands, and Viggo maintained his contact with Tahiti with occasional calls to Papeete for refitting, generally during the hurricane season.
In 1922, after picking up 104 tons of copra in the Northern Cook Group, the "Tiare Taporo" left Penrhyn for Auckland on 28th. January. Fine weather prevailed until 20th. February when an easterly gale was encountered. Auckland was made on the 22nd. and, after discharge a lengthy overhaul was undertaken so that it was not until 29th. April that port was cleared for Rarotonga and Papeete under Captain Ruth, Viggo Rasmussen not going back with the schooner.
Outside the Hauraki Gulf another easterly blew up, and when a leak developed 160 miles out, it was decided to turn back for Auckland rather than run the risk of damaging the cargo which consisted mainly of provisions. Auckland was made on 2nd. May where the leak, which had been located above the waterline, was repaired and the Waitemata was finally cleared for Rarotonga on 7th. May.
No doubt all on board were glad to be clear of the stormy New Zealand waters. Perhaps Viggo knew a thing or two when he remained ashore. He later rejoined the "Tiare Taporo" in the Islands and remained with her until 1936 when the veteran master left her and the sea to become Resident Agent on Penrhyn Island until 1945, when ill health took him to Rarotonga. Feeling that his end was near, he sailed in his old schooner to spend his last days with his family on Penrhyn. There, in 1947, he passed away, within sound of the mighty Pacific rollers that had been so familiar to him with their incessant pounding on the reefs.
After the death of Viggo Rasmussen, Capt. Benson had the "Tiare Taporo" and in 1948 Capt. Cambridge took command. In December that year a violent storm struck the Cook Islands and much anxiety was felt for the safety of the "Tiare Taporo" which had left Mangaia for Mauku, 100 miles distant. Nothing was heard of the schooner for four and a half days and, as can be imagined, the passengers on board thought more than once that their end had come. Perhaps some had reached the stage where they did not even care and would have been only too glad to have had their misery put to an end. Anyway, it so happened that the good ship weathered the storm and the passage was soon a thing to be forgotten.
In 1949 the "Tiare Taporo" under Andy Thomson, was again in Auckland for overhaul, arriving from Rarotonga and later returning to the Cook Group until she herself was replaced by the M.V. "Charlotte Donald". She then took a labour gang to the phosphate island of Makatea and from there sailed for Papeete where she was handed over to the Etablissements Donald-Tahiti.
Capt. Andy Thomson, then in the "Charlotte Donald", seeing the "Tiare Taporo" in Papeete after a voyage to the Marquesas for copra, wrote: "The Tiare looked well, all dolled and painted up. They always keep the vessels at Papeete in tip-top order. I don't believe you'll see such nicely kept ships in any place in the world as you do in Papeete, Tahiti."
The author, Robert Gibbings, travelled through the Cook Islands and to Tahiti aboard the "Tiare Taporo" while gathering material for his beautiful book on life in the South Seas, appropriately called "Over the Reefs".
The loss by fire of the ketch "Artemise" in February 1953 at Raroia in the Tuamotus left the "Tiare Taporo" as the only remaining Auckland built fore and after sailing in French Oceania. In 1960, however she was once again in the Cook Group with Andy Thomson at the helm.
As elsewhere, Tahitian craft now rely on diesels so that today there is little to remind us of the days when a great fleet of glistening white schooners tied up under the Flamboyants of Papeete's waterfront.
Addendum: The "Tiare Taporo" was sold in 1964 and sadly soon after that she was a total loss when she dragged her mooring in a storm at Anyeitum Is. in Vanuatu.
Andy Thomson was a great seaman. He had the enviable record of never losing a ship or a man overboard during a time when none of the electronic navigation aids we take for granted today existed. He was born in Brooklyn, New York and came to the South Pacific via Alaska as a young man. Jim has a letter from Andy in which he describes meeting A.B. Donald in Tahiti in 1908. He described ABD as "an up and coming fellow"!!! Jim came to know Andy quite well during a voyage on the Company's steel motor ship "Akatere" from Auckland to Rarotonga in 1968. Andy taught him how to navigate with a sextant during that passage which took 2 weeks - longer than the Tiare's original passage to Tahiti in 1913. Jim heard many wonderful stories of the old South Seas from Andy during Sunday afternoon visits to Andy's house at Arorangi - near where the Rarotongan Hotel now stands. These visits always involved a bottle of Scotch Whisky!
These were fascinating days of the early South Pacific with events and characters who will never be seen again.
We are hoping to keep at least some memory of those days with our present voyaging on our 39' Gauntlet cutter, "Tiare Taporo III". She is built in timber in the same manner (Carvel planked) as the old schooner. At least the name is still out there cruising the seas - although far removed geographically from the original Tiare's cruising grounds.
Hope you have enjoyed this snippet of New Zealand's maritime history.
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay
Johor Bahru
Malaysia.
----- End of Original Message -----
----- End of Original Message -----
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To: "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>
Cc: "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Dave Baird (Gauntlet "Gemini")" <dave@zerofive.co.uk>, "Classic Yacht Assn" <joycetalbot@classicyacht.org.nz>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>
Subject: Fwd: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:15:18 -0000
From: zmq5985
----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Cc: "Murray & Jo Wilkinson" <norsand@xtra.co.nz>, "Westwind - Chris & Gilli Dicker" <westwind@live.com.au>, "Steven Worsfold" <smworsfold@msn.com>, "Sina - Noel and Litara" <yachtsina@hotmail.com>, "Rosemary Morton" <rosemary.morton@xtra.co.nz>, "Richard & Pauline McDonald - Ph. (09) 4356259 10 DipRd., Kamo NZ 0112" <phl@slingshot.co.nz>, "Raisen" <Rozanne.Donald@stcuthberts.school.nz>, "Perry" <perry_lanaway@hotmail.com>, "Kerrin Worsfold" <worsfoldfamily@gmail.com>, "John & Garry" <garrett.d.stack@gmail.com>, "Jane & Roy Vaughan" <janevaughan@orcon.net.nz>, "Heather Lal" <heatherlal53@gmail.com>, "Harold Kidd" <Harold@hklaw.co.nz>, "Hamish & Sara" <bluedogstainless@xtra.co.nz>, "Dennis Bouverie (" <dennis.b@xtra.co.nz>, "David and Marianna Matzenik" <davmar1986@gmail.com>, "Charlotte" <chillitdonald@yahoo.com>, "Blue Musketeer - John & Val Ph. (04) 08456224" <jvbluemusketeer@gmail.com>, "Auckland Traditional Boatbuilding School" <info@atbs.org.nz>, "Alec" <adonald@abdonaldltd.co.nz>, "Amanda Donald" <amandadonaldrm@gmail.com>
Subject: A potted history of the original "Tiare Taporo"
Date: 17 Feb 2014 09:09:13 -0000
From: zmq5985
Hi,
During our rationalisation of our storage unit while in NZ recently we came across a copy of a book entitled "Out of Auckland" by Clifford Hawkins and published in 1960. The foreword is by Dr. R.A. Falla who was at that time Director of the Dominion Museum in Wellington. The book covers early European maritime history in New Zealand with details of many boats built in New Zealand up to the early 1900's. There is an extensive passage devoted to the "Tiare Taporo" and I thought it may be of interest. It covers pages 140-145 of the book and I am reproducing it here (with appropriate additions as appropriate):
Even with the coming of steam and auxiliary power, schooners continued to be popular with Island Merchants and Traders right up to the early 1900's. None of the old timers survive today but, out of Papeete, there still sails a schooner that immediately attracts one's attention. She is the "Tiare Taporo" which was designed and built by Charles Bailey Jnr. in 1913 for the islands trading firm of Messrs. A.B. Donald Ltd. Her first Master, Capt. J. Winchester was originally a 50% shareholder until his shares were bought at a later time by A.B. Donald - Jim's great grandfather.
Of 173 tons gross and with a length of 89.6 feet, beam 23.4 feet and depth 9.8 feet, she certainly made a fine addition to the fleet of South Pacific traders. Apart from the "Strathcona", which was lost on the North Minerva Reef on her maiden voyage in 1915, the "Tiare Taporo" was the last schooner to be built specially for the islands trade. "Strathcona" was built for the Pacific Cable Board as a supply vessel and was not intended for trading purposes. Bailey always expressed the opinion that she was his finest craft, and much has been said of her sailing qualities, but actually she was not afloat long enough to warrant all that has been said of her speed.
The "Tiare Taporo" got her name over the Donald's dining table, when a discussion arose over what their new vessel was to be called. It was jocularly suggested that as the firm received revenue from the trade in lime juice, the schooner should be named after the lime! From that suggestion came the lovely Tahitian words "Tiare Taporo" - the flower of the lime - as fine a name that could be bestowed upon any ship.
On fitting out, the "Tiare Taporo" loaded general cargo at the now non-existent Hobson St. Wharf, Auckland and after a trial run in the Hauraki Gulf, sailed for Papeete on 3rd. July 1913. Her master was a part owner and well-known identity, Capt. J. Winchester, and the mate, Capt. E. Lucas who some years later became the chief harbour pilot at Papeete. The schooner made a fine run of 11 and a half days to Tahiti from where she traded under the French flag, mainly among the Society, Marquesas and Tuamotu Groups.
During World War I the "Tiare Taporo" was fortunate in keeping out of the track of the German raider "Seeadler" and not being captured, as was the "Lutece", formerly the Auckland built "Gauloise". The "Tiare Taporo" did come into this episode though, when she sailed for Mopelia to pick up the marooned Allied sailors whose ships had been sunk by von Lucknow and left there when that raider and his crew made their escape. Von Lucknow had departed in one of the "Seeadler's" boats before the capture of the "Lutece" and was eventually caught up with on Wakaya Is. in the Fijis.
In 1918 the "Tiare Taporo" went up to San Francisco and loaded case oil for Auckland where she arrived on 8th. January 1919, 58 days out. After an overhaul at Auckland, during which the main mast was shifted six feet further aft, the schooner cleared port on 16th. February, to take over the Cook Islands services of Messrs. A.B. Donald. Being clear of trading in French territorial waters, the port of registry was changed from Papeete to Auckland. The "Tiare Taporo" had already become well known during her voyages out of the French port,but now much of the colour of the South Seas was to be woven into her career with Viggo Rasmussen as her master.
Born in Denmark, Viggo went to sea at an early age and arrived in Tahiti in 1896. He spent 10 years in French Oceania at various callings and came to know the islands and their people through his numerous trading schooner voyages and his pearling ventures in the Tuamotus. As with so many others who drifted down to that corner of the Pacific, Viggo found the life very much to his liking, and in Tahiti romance with a Mitiaro girl ended in matrimony. Taking his wife back to Mitiaro in the Cook Group, he set up as a trader there. But the call of the sea proved to be too strong for him and away he sailed in the schooner "Vaite". Trading in the Cook Islands, home was never far away, and the experience gained was invaluable to Viggo when he was appointed Master of the "Tiare Taporo" which replaced the "Vaite" because that vessel had been having difficulty in handling all of the work that was offering.
Known to Polynesians and Europeans alike as "Papa" Viggo, Rasmussen and his schooner became popular with all those whose business meant travel among the islands, and Viggo maintained his contact with Tahiti with occasional calls to Papeete for refitting, generally during the hurricane season.
In 1922, after picking up 104 tons of copra in the Northern Cook Group, the "Tiare Taporo" left Penrhyn for Auckland on 28th. January. Fine weather prevailed until 20th. February when an easterly gale was encountered. Auckland was made on the 22nd. and, after discharge a lengthy overhaul was undertaken so that it was not until 29th. April that port was cleared for Rarotonga and Papeete under Captain Ruth, Viggo Rasmussen not going back with the schooner.
Outside the Hauraki Gulf another easterly blew up, and when a leak developed 160 miles out, it was decided to turn back for Auckland rather than run the risk of damaging the cargo which consisted mainly of provisions. Auckland was made on 2nd. May where the leak, which had been located above the waterline, was repaired and the Waitemata was finally cleared for Rarotonga on 7th. May.
No doubt all on board were glad to be clear of the stormy New Zealand waters. Perhaps Viggo knew a thing or two when he remained ashore. He later rejoined the "Tiare Taporo" in the Islands and remained with her until 1936 when the veteran master left her and the sea to become Resident Agent on Penrhyn Island until 1945, when ill health took him to Rarotonga. Feeling that his end was near, he sailed in his old schooner to spend his last days with his family on Penrhyn. There, in 1947, he passed away, within sound of the mighty Pacific rollers that had been so familiar to him with their incessant pounding on the reefs.
After the death of Viggo Rasmussen, Capt. Benson had the "Tiare Taporo" and in 1948 Capt. Cambridge took command. In December that year a violent storm struck the Cook Islands and much anxiety was felt for the safety of the "Tiare Taporo" which had left Mangaia for Mauku, 100 miles distant. Nothing was heard of the schooner for four and a half days and, as can be imagined, the passengers on board thought more than once that their end had come. Perhaps some had reached the stage where they did not even care and would have been only too glad to have had their misery put to an end. Anyway, it so happened that the good ship weathered the storm and the passage was soon a thing to be forgotten.
In 1949 the "Tiare Taporo" under Andy Thomson, was again in Auckland for overhaul, arriving from Rarotonga and later returning to the Cook Group until she herself was replaced by the M.V. "Charlotte Donald". She then took a labour gang to the phosphate island of Makatea and from there sailed for Papeete where she was handed over to the Etablissements Donald-Tahiti.
Capt. Andy Thomson, then in the "Charlotte Donald", seeing the "Tiare Taporo" in Papeete after a voyage to the Marquesas for copra, wrote: "The Tiare looked well, all dolled and painted up. They always keep the vessels at Papeete in tip-top order. I don't believe you'll see such nicely kept ships in any place in the world as you do in Papeete, Tahiti."
The author, Robert Gibbings, travelled through the Cook Islands and to Tahiti aboard the "Tiare Taporo" while gathering material for his beautiful book on life in the South Seas, appropriately called "Over the Reefs".
The loss by fire of the ketch "Artemise" in February 1953 at Raroia in the Tuamotus left the "Tiare Taporo" as the only remaining Auckland built fore and after sailing in French Oceania. In 1960, however she was once again in the Cook Group with Andy Thomson at the helm.
As elsewhere, Tahitian craft now rely on diesels so that today there is little to remind us of the days when a great fleet of glistening white schooners tied up under the Flamboyants of Papeete's waterfront.
Addendum: The "Tiare Taporo" was sold in 1964 and sadly soon after that she was a total loss when she dragged her mooring in a storm at Anyeitum Is. in Vanuatu.
Andy Thomson was a great seaman. He had the enviable record of never losing a ship or a man overboard during a time when none of the electronic navigation aids we take for granted today existed. He was born in Brooklyn, New York and came to the South Pacific via Alaska as a young man. Jim has a letter from Andy in which he describes meeting A.B. Donald in Tahiti in 1908. He described ABD as "an up and coming fellow"!!! Jim came to know Andy quite well during a voyage on the Company's steel motor ship "Akatere" from Auckland to Rarotonga in 1968. Andy taught him how to navigate with a sextant during that passage which took 2 weeks - longer than the Tiare's original passage to Tahiti in 1913. Jim heard many wonderful stories of the old South Seas from Andy during Sunday afternoon visits to Andy's house at Arorangi - near where the Rarotongan Hotel now stands. These visits always involved a bottle of Scotch Whisky!
These were fascinating days of the early South Pacific with events and characters who will never be seen again.
We are hoping to keep at least some memory of those days with our present voyaging on our 39' Gauntlet cutter, "Tiare Taporo III". She is built in timber in the same manner (Carvel planked) as the old schooner. At least the name is still out there cruising the seas - although far removed geographically from the original Tiare's cruising grounds.
Hope you have enjoyed this snippet of New Zealand's maritime history.
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay
Johor Bahru
Malaysia.
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Sunday, 19 January 2014
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