Friday, 16 September 2011

Tiare Taporo about to head north

It's a beautiful day here in NC with the sun shining and a 10-15 knot SE. It is now 1300 on the 17th. and we are getting ready to leave for the northern lagoon tomorrow morning. We should be off the Passe du Ducos earlyish on the 19th. all being well. David and Mary have cycled into La Foa - something they have been wanting to do. We had been there when we had the car so another visit was not so pressing. Gina and Jim went ashore earlier with our bed sheets and washed them in a bucket under a tap at the head of a launching ramp!! Such are the joys of cruising. The place is busy today (Sat.) with lots of 4x4's and boat trailers as their owners have headed out to fish or surf the reef. A very NZ like scene.
Nothing else to report - will be in touch again soon. Cheers.........................

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Thursday, 15 September 2011

At anchor at Baie de Chambeyron

Apparently this is the premier reef surfing spot in New Caledonia. Yesterday we went ashore again and met the operator of a reef surfing boat and there were 2 Australians staying here who had also come for the surfing. You need to be somewhat of an experienced surfer to surf coral reefs because if you make a mistake...............!! They usually surf the southern side of a reef pass where the reef curves around into the pass and this produces the much sought after left hand break.
We've been having a relatively quiet time watching the weather and trying work out when to leave for the north when the current SE weather pattern dies down a bit. In the next couple of days the wind is expected to lessen and go more to the east which would suit us quite well. However, no sign of that at the moment. We've been also trying to work out whether to break the journey north by going into the Baie de Bourail which doesn't give any access to the northern or southern lagoon, or whether to keep going for the Passe de Duroc which is at the southern extremity of the navigable part of the northern lagoon. If we do the latter it is 85 miles just for the ocean passage part so will involve at least one overnight sail. Navigation will be important so that we don't get too close to the reef!!
This morning (it is now 1000 on the 16th.) David from "Giselle" went out to the reef with the surfers and is going to try his luck in the breakers! As the crow flies the outer reef from here is about 5 miles. They left about an hour and a half ago in a fast boat so will be interesting to hear all about the exploits when they return. Wetsuits are important, not just to protect against the water temperature, but also to ward off the occasional brush with coral which can produce very nasty septic wounds which can take forever to heal. Not our cup of tea but guess if you're a keen surfer.............. Gina's been doing the washing by hand and everything now hanging from the lifelines! She's about to make some oatmeal cracker biscuits and a loaf of soda bread made from Spelt Flour so it's all go here!!
That's it for now folks!!
Lots of love from us
Jim and Jean (Gina)

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Tiare Taporo's adventures in the NC Lagoon

Well today we had intended to go back to Ilot Tenia where David wanted to surf on the reef and we would do some schnorkeling but the wind was still from the SE and was getting up to 20 knots even relatively early in the morning which would make the anchorage out there untenable. So, we decided to head north to a tidal creek not in the cruising guide but which would give access to La Foa where David and Mary were very anxious to visit after reading our earlier blog about the cuisine at the Hotel Banu!! However, the anchorage is at least 10 miles from La Foa and the difficulty is getting transport into town without breaking the bank. The anchorage itself, while secure, is in a shallow tidal estuary which has very little protection against wind and is singularly without visual merit.
We had an uneventful trip north to here today but had to follow a fairly tortuous path avoiding shallow patches and reefs through the lagoon. We had up to 25 knots of wind particularly towards the latter stages of the journey. This part of NC is quite uninteresting - much as our car trip up the island. Completely unlike the lushness of the E coast. The landscape is arid and the islands where anchorage is possible equally boring. All surrounded by very extensive coral reefs which usually would make an approach to anchor difficult and unrewarding. We had an extensive walk ashore this afternoon and for part of that walked across what passes for a farm in this part of the world. It seemed to be a deer farm judging from the fences but we didn't see any deer. We did however have to scale the deer fence at one stage which was a bit taxing. Then we had a beer at the local pub where they were showing the Rugby match between Tonga and Canada being played in Whangarei. Quite bizarre being in a remote place like this and watching something like that. We didn't see Murray Wilkinson sitting there!! We hope Whangarei gets its money's worth from the $18M investment in the stadium. Hard to imagine from just 1 or 2 RWC matches.
We are at anchor at position 21 degrees 51' S 165 degrees 49' E and the wind has died down. It is now 2215 on the 14th. Sept. Time for bed and whatever adventures await on the morrow. We'll probably stay here tomorrow but then will be leaving for the north. We are at the northernmost extremity of lagoon navigation now and the next 100 miles or so will be outside the lagoon in the Coral Sea.
Cheers and watch this space.....................

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Monday, 12 September 2011

Circumnavigation of New Calaedonia

Hi
We are anchored off Ilot Puen tonight in position 21 degrees 58' S 165 degrees 57' E after a 24 mile passage north from Baie Maa where we were last night. We are now about 30 miles north of Noumea. It was challenging navigating inside the lagoon avoiding the reefs but we had faith in our trusty chart plotter (thanks to David on "Giselle") and the French charts which are accurate. It was a beautiful day and we motorsailed most of the way as to begin with the wind was under 5 knots. Saw some dolphins on the way. However, the wind picked up later just when we were intending to anchor at Ilot Tenia which is right out on the barrier reef on the northern side of the Passe de St. Vincent. We had an anxious time approaching the anchorage as the water depth decreased rapidly to 10' but it was so clear it was like floating in air. However, it was blowing hard by then from the SE so we didn't stay long and headed for the mainland where we are now. We'll probably go back out there early tomorrow before the wind gets up to have a schnorkel on the reef. Then it'll probably be back here before we exit the lagoon to head north. This is about the northernmost extremity where lagoon navigation is possible and then it will be a 120 mile overnight passage to Koumac which will get us back into our ocean passage making psyche again!!
It really was spectacular today - the water colour ranged from deep blue (60-80') to tourquiose (about 30') to much shallower which made Jean in particular very nervous! The water is so clear that it is possible to see the bottom easily at around 20' and the magnifying effect of the water makes it look closer than it is. We could easily see the ocean swells breaking on the barrier reef and at a distance of 3 miles or so it was an eerie sight as all one could see was the splash of white as they broke and sometimes when there was a big one it was possible to see the dark shape of the wave as well.
Last night Mary and David came aboard with some raw prawns they had bought in Noumea and we cooked them on our BBQ. They were delicious and we had a very pleasant evening. Before that we had gone ashore at Baie Maa and had a good walk which stirred up the old limbs again!!
Keep tuned for more fascinating adventures,
Lots of love
Jim and Jean (Gina)

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Saturday, 10 September 2011

Away at last around the island

Hi all,
We are leaving Noumea tomorrow to start a clockwise circumnavigation of New Cal. All sorts of advice as to which is the best way to go around and all conflicting!! The difficulty is that NC lies NW-SE and the prevailing wind is SE so one is bound to get it on the nose at some time - the saving grace is that doing a coastal cruise one can hole up somewhere until conditions become somewhat more benign! Going up the west coast there is roughly an 80 mile stretch where it is necessary to go outside the reef as it is not navigable inside. However, although this will involve an overnight passage, the northern lagoon is wonderful by all accounts and we are looking forward to it. Coming down the east coast we will go out to the Loyalties (esp. Ouvea) which is supposed to be a must see.
We are very grateful to David on "Giselle of Argylle" who has been of invaluable assistance in getting our Maxsea chartplotting programme to work again on our laptop. We hasten to add that it is a totally legitimate copy but there was a glitch with a software update that Maxsea wasn't happy with. However, it has reinforced our intention to put Maxsea onto a dedicated chartplotter rather than the laptop as a chartplotter is marine orientated and far more robust. We couldn't even switch the laptop on when we first arrived at the Amedee Pass because of the sea conditions at the time which would have seen the computer on the floor in several pieces!! And these are the very situations where one needs this information so when we get to Australia we'll be addressing this for sure. At least the passage to Australia should be far easier than the passage we had out of NZ. Fingers crossed!!!
Anyway, watch this space for our blow by blow account of the circumnavigation. New Caledonia is 200 miles long so we are looking at a minimum voyage including a detour out to the Loyalties, of 5-600 miles.
We have been doing last minute shopping for provisions in the local Casino Supermarket, our local butchery and of course the Municipal Market. At the latter we are becoming quite well-known and are now treated like locals. There is a large circular coffee bar in the middle of the market and all we have to do is arrive there and we are served the usual - deux cafes noirs et un croissant - 700 Pacific Francs (NZD10). A great way to start the day watching the comings and goings of the characters who inhabit the market and talking to the various stall holders. Such a wonderful array of fresh food including (as well as fruit and veg) all manner of meats and pates and a mind boggling selection of fresh fish. We will miss it for sure when we leave.
Cheers to all and love from us
Jim and Jean (Gina)
P.S. Please email us with news of home as we always enjoy hearing hearing what's happening apart from reading Granny Herald on the internet!!

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Tuesday, 6 September 2011

Decision time

We are starting to look at weather windows again and debating our strategy for Vanuatu. However, we are starting more and more to think about circumnavigating New Caledonia as opposed to going to Vanuatu for a number of reasons. Not least of which is that a number of yachties have told us that as more and more tourists go to Vanuatu (particularly on cruise ships with 1100 at a time) the locals are becoming more and more grasping in a financial sense and that in fact costs there are starting to rival New Caledonia - and that's saying something!! Allied with the fact that we were so delayed with leaving NZ due to illness etc we would not have very much time there. The alternative is to circumnavigate NC and visit the Loyalties at leisure which in the end may prove to be a better apprenticeship for us for sailing in tropical waters where coral reefs abound. At least here the French charts are true to reality which is more than can be said of places like Tonga, Fiji and Vanuatu.
Then we would sail for Australia and maybe next year visit the Louisiades (PNG), Solomons and Vanuatu before returning to Australia via NC again. This would mean delaying by a year our plans for Indonesia and Malaysia and at our time of life that's also a consideration. However, a number of people have spoken very highly of the Solomons as it's still unspoilt which alas can't be said anymore of Vanuatu. There is an Italian yacht berthed alongside us at the moment and they have come down from the Phillipines via PNG and the Solomons and they can't praise it highly enough, whereas they weren't so complimentary about Vanuatu.
So, we're in an indecisive phase but we really need to make the decision by early next week at the latest.
We have been very fortunate to be berthed on our other side beside "Giselle". David from "Giselle" has spent a great deal of time sorting out our problems with our chart plotting system. And giving us some alternatives which are also now on our computer. We had lost the connectivity between the boat's GPS and the computer so were not able to see our position on the screen. There's been a lot of practice with plotting positions on paper charts in the meantime which is no bad thing but it's also good to see the situation at a glance on screen. We are very grateful to David for troubleshooting our problem which in the end turned out to be a broken wire connection where a soldered joint had come adrift. David had a soldering iron and fixed the problem once it had been diagnosed so we're back in business again.
Today we first went to the market for some more supplies and then McDonalds for the internet as the marina cafe for some reason blocks internet access to Sailmail where we get our weather prognoses. Goodness knows why. Then we went to a local chandlery and bought some nuts and bolts to fix the brackets on our dinghy seat and also indulged ourselves at Chez Toto again for lunch. More delicious snails - as if we needed to tell you that! A bit of food shopping and checking out the local duty free where prices are surprisingly competitive rounded out the day!
So now after a very light supper we are ready for bed. Tomorrow fixing the dinghy seat and organising a method of getting the staysail down without going right to the bow where one tends to do a very good impression of getting drowned when it's rough!!
Watch this space...............
Cheers,
Jim and Jean (Gina)

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Saturday, 3 September 2011

Noumea again

03/09 Back in town!! Can't help liking this place - even with all its French frustrations. We went to the Saturday market this morning and enjoyed a croissant between us as well as 2 cafes noirs. Bought some fruit, veges and pate and then went to McDonalds (!) as we'd heard that their internet connection was superior - but it wasn't!! Still, we managed to send some emails.
02/09 Yesterday we left Ilot Maitre mid morning after calling Port Moselle Marina on VHF 67 and headed to Noumea about 3 miles away - same distance as Roberton Is. to Paroa Bay in the BOI. However, approaching Noumea on that different angle gave a confusing visual aspect to the entrance and Jim became quite disorientated which we later put down to a highish blood sugar level which was 11.5 when we tested it after we arrived in the marina. He's not very responsible when it comes to taking his medication and in fact had forgotten to take it for the 2 preceding nights. It's a minimal dose as his sugar level is usually only marginally above normal but it shows how the medication (or lack thereof) does affect things. After that and feeling pretty miserable he took a normal dose and went to sleep, then woke up after an hour or so feeling somewhat better with a sugar level of 5!! Jean had been feeling very much under the weather as well - possibly another virus, but after a strenuous episode of sorting the storage under our forrard bunk she seemed to be starting to come right.
Beautiful homemade chicken noodle soup with lots of veges for dinner (at least as good as we had had in Malaysia) and an early night. We both felt much better the following morning.
01/09 "Giselle" left the Rade de l'Est, Prony for Noumea at 0630 and very shortly afterwards so did we. A beautiful day and we motorsailed all the way through the Canal Woodin with the last of the flood tide which was the reason for leaving early. Going against the tide through there is a bit like pushing it uphill with a rake!! Then on to the Isle Porc-Epic whence we made a slight course change for Ilot Maitre. Most reefs in the lagoon are well marked but one needs to be sure of the position to avoid those that aren't. We arrived at the Ilot and picked up a mooring buoy for the night. Then decided to go ashore to inspect the posh resort with its over water bungalows to see how the other half lives. We wandered around - everything very upmarket - but almost no-one there. Then, just because we were there we decided to have a drink in spite of a sign which said that the bar was out of bounds to anyone who was not a guest. The price for a can of Heinecken and a Perrier water was 1350 francs (NZD20)so we won't be going there again.
Back on the boat for dinner which Jim cooked as Jean was starting to feel distinctly unwell. We had Escallope de Veau and the last of our veges and fell into bed with the wind starting to gust 15 knots and occasionally higher. Still, we were reasonably sheltered although the anchorage became a bit jobbly. We had doubled up the mooring lines so were quite secure. "Vite Vite" a German catamaran we had known at Norsand moored just in front of us.
This blog is written back to front just to keep you on your toes!!
Cheers and love again from us
J & J (G)

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com