Danga Bay and Singapore

Hi again to all.........
The marina here is very friendly and helpful with most things but very run down as it is being relocated in the near future and hasn't had any work done for a while. But there are good restaurants (seafood and Italian) and the city of Johor Bahru is only a short taxi or bus ride away. Taxis are cheap - about 8 Ringgits for a 10 minute ride into Johor. That's just over NZD3. We have found supermarkets and a very good fresh food market as well as getting SIM cards for our phone and mobile broadband.
We also went to Singapore 3 days ago just for 2 days and 1 night. Getting through the border checkpoint at the Causeway across to Singapore is a total rigmarole with endless walking and then we had no Sing dollars so had to find an ATM to get some before we could get a bus to the MRT (train) station. Nothing is straightforward with almost a total dearth of signage. Fairly frustrating but eventually we made it through and arrived at the Kranji MRT station. The MRT is very efficient and clean so we had a very pleasant trip into town, even if we did have to change trains twice. Many Malaysians commute every day to Singapore as the wages there are higher than Malaysia but they still live in Malaysia as the cost of living here is much lower than Singapore. So, they have to go through the border rigmarole twice a day - don't know how they put up with it.
We eventually arrived at the Chinatown station and disembarked to find our hotel - the Santa Grand. Comfortable but with rooms like shoeboxes although with our own ensuite. But clean and friendly and helpful. At SGD120 per night this is very definitely at the lower end of the accommodation scale - you could pay $1000's!
Our main purpose in coming to Singapore was to query our existing bank account and possibly open a new one with another bank. In the event that is what happened as the previous bank had been insisting on ridiculous minimum balances with fees to match! We made an appointment for the following day and in the meantime checked out where they were. We then went to the Marina Sands complex down on the waterfront which is a fantastically upmarket shopping complex on many levels - the shops were mind blowing. Next door there was the well known 3 towers with a structure resembling a boat stretched across the top. We had seen it before but had never been to the top so we purchased tickets for SGD17 apiece and hurtled upwards at ear popping speed for 57 floors. Unfortunately it had started to rain when we got to the viewing deck so we got a blurry view of things and the view wasn't all that spectacular anyway. Once down at the bottom we thought it might be good to have a drink at a bar we came across - nothing particularly flash but it cost us SGD32 for a beer and an Irish cider for Jean!! Won't be doing that again. Then it was back to the hotel for a shower and a lie down before venturing out again just around the corner for a Chinese meal in Chinatown. A couple of handles of Tiger beer and a very good Chinese meal much cheaper than at Marina Sands and Jean bought a handmade handbag from a Thai lady at one of the many stalls around there. Then a much needed sleep.
The next day off again to the banks. The address was Claymore Hill near Orchard Rd. We closed our existing account and then went into a shopping mall to find the local branch of Standard Chartered Bank. This we did and opened the new account with little problem. We knew the documentary requirements so all went off without a hitch. Even had new ATM cards issued on the spot but now we cannot work out how to activate them!! Always some hitches. Amazing shopping malls - this one had 4-5 levels below ground and so many shops. But with over 5 million people on a small island like Singapore they all seem to do a thriving trade. Had a great lunch at one of the myriads of eateries - Jean said her salad was one of the best she had ever had. Then it was back to Johor. We caught a cab to the checkpoint as they are cheap and we needed to relax in the car's airconditioning! Once more through the bureaucratic maze and then a short cab ride back to Danga Bay.
We are feeling very jaded - exhausted may be a better word - after 3 months in Indonesia and for that reason and also so that Jean can seek medical treatment for her hips and breathing issues, we have decided to stay on at Danga for about another 2 weeks. This will have the added advantage that when we do finally sail north we will be with Sail Malaysia which should be beneficial. Jean was going to travel from Pangkor to Penang for the medical issues but we are assured that the facilities here are at least as good as Penang and the hospital is part of the same group of private hospitals throughout Malaysia. First appointment this afternoon so we'll let you know.
The weather is hot and sultry - you only have to move and you perspire. There are thunderstorms most afternoons with the usual forked lightning and thunder crashing around with torrential rain.
Apart from that it's all good - keep watching this space.
Cheers and lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johor
Malaysia.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Fwd: MALAYSIA AT LAST!!!!! Danga Bay Marina Lat. 01 degree 28.5' N Long. 103 degrees 43.4' E

----- Original Message -----
To: "Alastair Whitelaw" <awhitelaw@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: MALAYSIA AT LAST!!!!! Danga Bay Marina Lat. 01 degree 28.5' N Long. 103 degrees 43.4' E
Date: 25 Oct 2013 05:51:30 -0000
From: zmq5985

It's hard to believe but we have finally arrived in Malaysia. This has been our endgame since leaving NZ but we were so tired yesterday that it was difficult to feel any elation. However, there is definitely a sense of quiet achievement. We are here!!! It's been a long way.
We finally received the necessary and endless paperwork via Customs and Sail Indonesia which enabled our departure. Just as an aside the IDR745,000 had to be paid in cash, whereas all marina charges could be paid by credit card. Just as well, because we only had just over a million left in cash and the only ATM for miles was inoperable!! Only in Indonesia. And what is it with the requirement for cash only?? Makes one wonder where the cash ends up.
We left Nongsa Point (and Indonesia) at 0630 yesterday (24/10) in overcast conditions and a 10-15 knot wind from the SW - on the nose as usual. Had the main up but really only to help dampen any rolling. We followed the "inshore route" along the north coast of Batam. The intention was to anchor for the night off one of the many islands west of Batam as the total passage was 51 miles and we thought it would be best to break the journey. That would normally take us 10-11 hours under power but we found that with the tidal current in our favour we were doing over 7 knots over the ground which was making a huge difference. So, when we were opposite the Singapore Straits crossing point, we made a snap decision to scrap the anchoring idea and head straight for Danga. In the end we took 8 hours for the passage - an average speed of 6.4 knots. We had an excellent view of the tall buildings that litter the Singapore CBD as we passed along.
Before we arrived at the crossing point we had to dodge a number of tugs and barges as they were like us keeping to the south of the main shipping lane. All exciting stuff and designed to keep you on your toes! At one stage we passed between two barges with about 50 metres from each one port to starboard. At a closing speed of at least 10 knots it causes a bit of a knot to form in the pit of one's stomach! There had been a beacon to port marking a nasty rock and to starboard was the major shipping channel with one ship after another all powering along remorselessly so not much choice really. The number of ships using the Singapore Straits always amazes. The Rule of the Road at Sea (Colregs) stipulates that you keep right so the west-east passge was nearest to us and we were going east-west.
So, when we decided to cross we were at a point where the crossing was as near as possible to right angles to the shipping lane directions. We waited for a break in the west-east traffic (much like crossing the road) and turned to starboard heading for the Raffles Light on the end of Senang Island, Singapore. There is a gap in the middle between the two lanes and we had to wait there for about 10 minutes while a tardy car carrier trundled past coming from our starboard side. Then we started moving again and headed NW 9 miles across the ship anchorage before arriving at the massive reclamation west of Jurong Island. There were ships everywhere of all shapes and sizes - gas tankers and container ships in the main. All swinging around their anchors costing their owners heaps.
Then a 45 degree course change as we came up to the reclamation and we were at last entering the lower reaches of the Straits of Johore between Singapore Island and the Malaysian mainland. The channel was all very well marked and this part of the journey became quite boring as it seemed to go on forever and the landscape on each side was flat and uninteresting. We passed under the new and massive Tuas Bridge just after Raffles Marina on the Singapore side. The bridge has a clearance under the main span of 25 metres - plenty for us as our masthead is only 14 metres above the water. The bridge itself is an impressive modern concrete structure with a huge complex on the Singapore side for controlling the border. Singapore is very security conscious as we were shadowed by various Singapore Coastguard/Police launches all the way from the bridge to Danga. Always up to a quarter to half a mile astern but always there. One wonders what they would have done if we'd dropped the anchor!
We were then approaching Danga which is just 3 miles short of the famous Causeway, across which the Japanese invaded Singapore in 1942. We could not see any markers for the entrance so things were getting a bit stressful (again!!) until we finally raised them on the radio and they talked us in. But coping with the boat and trying to understand Malaysian English over the radio made for rather a trying time all the while nervously watching a jetblack thunderstorm with the usual forked lightning only a short distance inland. However, it left us alone and eventually moved away.
Finally we spied some frantically waving characters on a dock a short distance ahead and once we had fenders and lines rigged we moved in.
Danga is really quite unattractive. A low lying shoreline and brown water. Lots of sand bars and much industrial activity taking place including dredging the marina approaches and work going on in the marina complex itself. But very friendly and relaxed.
Had dinner last night at a seafood restaurant and NOT cheap - MYR107 (Ringgits) which is NZD41.
Then to bed and a deep sleep. Tomorrow is another day.
Lotsaluv from us..........
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Danga Bay Marina
Johore Bahru
Malaysia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----- End of Original Message -----

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Nongsa Point Marina Lat. N 1 degree 11.8' Long. E 104 degrees 05.9'

We arrived at Nongsa Point yesterday (the 21st.) We left the anchorage at Pulau Raja at 0730 and motored north past an amazing industrial/mining development onshore which seemed to extend north along the coast for some 5 miles or so. The area or town is known as Kabil and is just another example of Asian industry which leaves Australia and NZ for dead. This would only be a small example but is indicative of energetic Asian development as the world's new economic powerhouse. As we motored north we passed rows of ships and barges at anchor waiting to load. All very straightforward as the channel was well marked and for once the chartplotter seemed to agree with where we were!
We continued north following the Batam coast around in an increasing NW/W direction until not far from the Nongsa Point entrance another of these electrical thunderstorms hit us. The wind had been well below 10 knots but suddenly came up to 30 right on the nose with an unpleasant steep sea. We continued plugging into it (wind and heavy rain) for a while but then decided that, as we weren't entering the marina in these conditions, we would seek respite and headed inshore where we obtained a welcome lee in calm water and anchored in just over 20'. Had a cup of tea and finally made contact with the marina on the phone as they hadn't been answering the VHF. However, they still couldn't give us a berth number much less tell us which side we would be tying up to so we were still unable to rig fenders or mooring lines. Anyway, we got them out from under the cockpit sole and then weighed anchor and set off once more. As we came closer we could see the tall buildings on Singapore Island a few miles from here and also the Singapore Straits with endless processions of ships heading to and from the Far East. We'll have to cross those straits in a few days which should be fun with these maritime behemoths bearing down on our puny 12.5 metre yacht!! The approach was easy and well marked and once inside the marina boat came out to meet us. Finally they told us which side we were berthing to so we rigged our lines and headed into the berth where we are berthed alongside a Canadian boat - "Nahanni". Another boat told us they had been to the rally anchorage on the neighbouring island of Bintan about 12 miles away but left after a sleepless night in a rolly and dangerous lee shore anchorage. These electrical storms would be blowing straight in there so it would not be good to say the least.
The marina has a bit of a roll - about the same as Bundaberg - but is otherwise very swish and upmarket. We treated ourselves to lunch in the restaurant and then organised a visit to a local doctor to have a look at Jim's leg which had become infected after what we think was another insect bite. Jean had had him on antibiotics for the last 3 days and had been placing charcoal poultices on the affected area which had been improving the situation. The marina provided a vehicle and driver free of charge so after dinner (the doctor was only available at night) we headed off - only about a 7 minute drive. The doctor was very pleasant with a beautiful nurse who took Jim's blood pressure which surprisingly remained well within acceptable limits!! He diagnosed an extreme allergic reaction rather than infection as such which was a relief and so we left armed with antihistamine tablets and ointment. Hopefully that will finally clear things up.
Sail Indonesia appears to be dragging the chain as far as organising our Customs clearance is concerned as they have known for weeks that we intended to clear out of Nongsa. All the boats here are complaining about the same thing and one can only speculate at the reason. Suffice it to say that once again they try to entice boats to Bintan which seems a dangerous anchorage in prevailing conditions and if you elect to do something else they are no longer interested in you. Another boat here (not in the rally) arrived and cleared out within 24 hours and at no cost whereas we are subjected to infuriating and unreasonable delays because it seems we are part of the rally. And it's going to cost us IDR 745,000 (NZD80) whereas there is no cost if you travel independently or put up with a largely untenable anchorage on Bintan. Another example of Sail Indonesia putting their commercial and political interests first at the expense of the rally participants. We are going to contact SI today and tell them that unless we have clearance organised within 24 hours we will be contacting the NZ Embassy in Jakarta and make an official complaint about deliberate withholding of the necessary documentation.
The "stragglers" arrived later yesterday as well ("Settlement", "Pedoja", "Screensaver", "Libertad", "Tropicali") to name but a few. "Stragglers" is a sobriquet self imposed by "Settlement"! "Galatea" should arrive today.
As always watch this space!
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Nongsa Point Marina
Indonesia.
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Pulau Raja Lat. N 1 degree 01.4' Long. E 104 degrees 09.6'

We left Mesanak with few regrets at 0530 today (Sun. 20th.) At around 0330 we were awakened from a deep sleep by the wind howling and, as we were being held sideways by the tidal current, the boat was heeling and starting to feel somewhat uncomfortable. At this time of the year which is the start of the wet season these nasty little electrical storms whistle through with startling regularity. They usually last 30 - 60 minutes and generate sudden high winds from a generally unpredictable direction. In addition there is torrential rain (thank goodness we re-caulked the decks!) but the worst is the forked lightning. The rain and wind can be dealt with but a direct hit from forked lightning would be devasting and doesn't bear thinking about. At least our mast is wooden and not so tall but this by no means guarantees immunity. So, all we can do is cross fingers. We have attached a length of wire from the lower port cap shroud into the water in the hope that if there was a strike, the charge would be diverted into the sea. But there is no predicting the path a lightning strike will take.
We motorsailed as per usual north west passing various islands (Pulaus). The wind was generally only about 10 knots and 15 degrees to port of our course so, unless we wanted to be out here all night, motorsailing was the answer. Karas Besar to port and Pangkil and Lobam to starboard. Many ships in the shipping channel south from Singapore so it was constant vigilance. We were sailing just astern of an American yacht, "Rutea" and asked them where they intended to anchor for the night. We'd had an anchorage on the other side of the Selat Riau but they mentioned this one so we elected to follow them as some knowledge was better than none at all! On the way in we ran through yet another electrical storm which was frightening as not only was there heavy rain and strong wind but frequent close bursts of forked lightning with gunshot thunder. We just kept our fingers crossed and it worked!
We threaded our way in through some small islands around reefs and tidal currents. The original anchorage proved to be untenable due to said currents and ferry wash from frequent high speed ferries. There was an industrial port with some sort of mining operation ashore - just like New Caledonia where they carve a hill away to nothing.
We then retraced our steps and eventually anchored as above. Not terribly salubrious but at least it's sheltered with not so much current. There is a village on stilts over the water but it all looks quite impoverished. We saw people out on the reef and others in small boats collecting seaweed so it appears to be very much a subsistence existence.
Tomorrow the last lap in the journey out of Indonesia when we arrive at Nongsa Point Point Marina on the NE end of Pulau Batam. Only 18 miles from here so shouldn't take too long.
More coming so watch this space!
Lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Raja
Indonesia.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

(no subject)

Had to share our news just to hand. Jim is now a Grandad for the 4th. time. Callum Patrick Donald arrived yesterday at 1338 - 8lbs exactly. His mother Rozanne and Callum are all well. So now we have "Grandad" and well as "Granny" on the "Tiare Taporo III"!! Such fertility between the two of us!! Just boasting at our time of life!! Hope to see you all soon - we are almost at Nongsa Point, Pulau Batam.
Lotsaluv from us again...........
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxo
s.v. Tiare Taporo III

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

s.v. Tiare Taporo III at Pulau Mesanak Lat. N 00 degrees 25.3' Long. E 104 degrees 30.2'

We left Kentar this morning at 0730 and spent the next hour or so avoiding the elaborate structures out in 40' of water which consist of raised platforms with thatch roofed sheds on them. Not really sure of their exact purpose but they sure make navigation difficult. There wasn't anyone on them and there must have been at least 100 of them for 5 miles north of the anchorage. We weren't sorry to leave Kentar because it was an extremely rolly anchorage with a big NE swell rolling in but we moved behind another smaller island yesterday and managed to escape the worst of it.
Our intention today was to travel north 35 miles to Pulau Mesanak but when we got there the anchorage on the north of the island was untenable due to the roll so we and another yacht - "Tropicali" - moved around to the west side and we've managed to plonk ourselves on the edge of a shoal to get shallow water to ease things for our windlass. Only 24' here right now. And calm thank goodness. Not so bad today, but for the last 2 days we've been surrounded by nasty thunderstorms which generate unpredictable strong winds and rain, not to mention thunder and lightning. This latter is very dangerous in this part of the world as on a yacht you are the only tall structure for miles around. Not a comfortable feeling and the lightning is of the forked variety.
We will get some sleep before leaving at midnight to go straight through to Nongsa Point Marina tomorrrow (some 70 odd miles) where we will clear out. It's Full Moon tonight so that will help in avoiding pesky local boats with no lights! We have decided to short circuit the whole drawn out business because we are sick of either indifferent or downright uncomfortable anchorages and Jean is of course anxious to get back home to see Peapod (Carter). She now has the nickname of Granny in the fleet so whenever someone speaks to us on the radio these days they always ask for Granny! Also she became aware about a week and a half ago that a very close and dear friend - cousin Margaret Hastie - and with whom she had spent many happy childhood times riding horses on their farm at Mangawhai Heads and spending school holidays together was very ill and not expected to live. Unfortunately, 2 days ago this unhappy event came to pass when she died. So, Jean feels very cut off from all these momentous family happenings and really wants to get home and Jim expects to become a Grandad for the 4th. time in a few days. Although realistically by the time we get the boat to Pangkor in Malaysia and clean her up prior to leaving her for about 2 months it will be another 4 weeks at the earliest before we can leave for Godszone. This cruising life is not all beer and skittles at times but at least the trusty old Ford just keeps going which is very necessary because there is usually next to no wind. 900 rpm giving us 5.5 - 6 knots.
The next blog hopefully will be from Nongsa Point so keep watching this space.
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Teluk Klabat, Tanjung Penyusu, Pulau Bangka Lat. 1 degree 32.0' S Long. 105 degrees 42.0' E

Hi all,
Well, here we are again. We left Tanjung Kelayang on Belitung yesterday morning intending to stop for a night at Pulau Gelasa which is an island nearer to the Bangka coast. However, as we approached in the early afternoon there was a strong active thunderstorm to the west of us and it was causing a strong wind from the NW which was blowing straight into the anchorage with corresponding big seas. We contacted "Santana" as they had left Belitung before us and their description of the anchorage was "diabolical"!! So we employed our old standby and hove to but after a couple of hours the wind dropped from 20 knots + to almost nothing so it was no longer possible to stay hove to. So we decided to carry on albeit in a big sloppy sea generated by the thunderstorm to the north. We motorsailed (mostly motored!) into the evening when the sea started to moderate. After that things settled down and the night was relatively benign. But the poor old Ford just kept on trundling along at 1000 rpm or less. We will owe that lump of ironmongery a big debt when we arrive in Malaysia. Thankfully there were no fishing boats but a few larger ships mostly represented on AIS so the night was reasonably stress free except that our "Smart Charger" decided to give up the ghost. This was potentially serious as we depend so much on engine generated power for our needs. However, the Skipper in his eternal wisdom managed to deduce that the problem was a wire that had come loose and once we had some daylight this morning fixed the problem.
Soon after that Jean decided to cook a roast chicken meal and we had some Australian chicken thighs with mashed potato and peas (both dehydrated!). But very tasty after a long night and very welcome.
We then carried on to this anchorage. As we are leaving early on the morrow we are not going ashore but there appears to be a resort of sorts - fairly decrepit and not obviously open. But a beautiful setting and it inspired Jim to say if he had been 30 years younger it could have been a project. But Takapuna Motor Lodge was enough at his advanced years some 13 years ago!!
On the way in we saw several out of commission ferries moored off the coast and they appeared to be carrying on some sort of industrial activity on board because there was a great deal of polluted discharge straight into the sea, some of which we were obliged to steam through. God knows what it was but there are times when one can be quite pleased to have the RMA in NZ!!
We are now anchored and for once the boat is still. We have finished dinner at only 1804 and the next chore is the dishes followed by bed ready for the off in the morning. Next stop Pulau Lingga ( 95 miles) and then only 230 miles to Nongsa Point where we will clear out of Indonesia.
More from us later...........
Lotsaluv
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Pulau Bangka
Indonesia
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Tanjung Kelayang one day on

A day of contrasts. We went ashore early with our empty fuel jerrycans and Rusty organised Mme. Rosa to take us to town to sort the internet problems and to get fuel. Rosa was delightful and turns out to be the widow of an Italian (Antonio Calvedon) who died 9 months ago. Rosa still gets tears in her eyes when she talks of him. They apparently met in Jakarta 28 years ago when she was working in reception at an international hotel. On the way back she took us to her very attractive house with wide verandahs and we had a cup of coffee there. She also showed us where half her husband's ashes were buried in her garden - the other half having been sent back to Italy.
On the way into town we stopped at a Pertamina service station and left our jerrycans there along with some 20 litre cans belonging to Rusty. We were to collect them on the way back. We went to Telkomsel who assured us the internet problem was fixed but when we arrived back on the boat we found that it wasn't so it will be back there tomorrow.
We went to a fruit and vege market which was only average but managed to replenish our stocks. Then back to the service station where it transpired that we could only fill our 60 litres of containers but if we come back tomorrow we can fill the remainder (120 litres). That should be enough to get us to Johore. There are politics and silly beggars going on here and that is the reason for the delay. The diesel price today was close to the local price but when the rally arrives in force after tomorrow the price will double and this is another reason for anyone sailing through Indonesia in future to eschew Sail Indonesia totally because not only are they dangerous to normal yacht navigation but they escalate local prices where ever they go. In Kupang the price was 14000 Rph per litre and when the rally left that dropped to 10000. Here so far it's about half that but it will escalate dramatically in the next few days. Just commercial and political nonsense.
Anyway we have found that the internet still is not working so that means another trip to town tomorrow with Rosa. Hopefully we can get the remainder of the fuel then as well at a reasonable and not extortionate price and get the internet sorted.
Early tomorrow Jim will go ashore to get the 60 litres already purchased because this afternoon it was too rough with an onshore wind to bring it out to the boat. This is all far too intricate by far and just shows how difficult this sailing life can become at times.
We'll keep you posted........
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Tanjung Kelayang
Pulau Belitung
Indonesia
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Across the Java Sea to Pulau Belitung Lat. 2 degrees 51.4' S Long. 108 degrees 18.0' E

Some people may see this as a very negative series of comments about Sail Indonesia but we believe they are well justified.
Anyway, to start at the beginning. We left Pulau Bawean on Thursday 3rd. after a very pleasant stay in a smooth anchorage - needless to say not an official Sail Indonesia stop! We were heading for Karimunjava but after only about 20 miles we made an ad hoc decision to put more miles under our belt and altered course for E. Belitung (some 310 miles on). This meant another night at sea but worth it to get further north and nearer to Malaysia which has always been our main focus. The nights were somewhat stressful as the sea was littered with squid boats - however, all easy to see because of their strong lights to attract the squid. But we always wondered whether there were any more unlit boats although we were by this time some 150 miles off the coast and it wasn't so likely to encounter small boats at that range. But one could never be sure. The wind was generally light and flukey and while we sailed part of the time we motorsailed mostly because of the need to maintain a schedule; we have to be out of Indonesia by Oct. 29th. at the latest - both us in terms of our visas and the boat in terms of its Cruising Permit.
So the days and nights were spent like that. Sometimes when conditions looked promising we would pole out the genoa or set the UPS but usually it was a flash in the pan and we would have to undo all our efforts again. Very frustrating. Still, the trusty old Ford just kept trundling along, usually below 1,000 rpm giving us between 5 and 6 knots. On the last night at sea we had another very scary moment. Jim was on watch and Jean was getting some much needed kip. He saw a boat showing its green navigation light on our starboard side and reasonably assumed that it would run past us. WRONG!! Some time later - and it was a dark moonless night - he looked again and through the binoculars saw what appeared to be a bow wave. SHIT - it was heading more or less straight for us. So, an ad hoc decision based on inadequate or non-existent data saw us alter course to starboard to come across their bows. There was no way of knowing how close they were, or their course or speed. Even Indonesian ships over 300 tons do not it seems have AIS transmitters. Anyway, we made it but it was close and as we came past them on their port side the cause of the near collision became apparent because their port (red) navigation light wasn't illuminated. If it had been it would have been apparent some time back that we had a potential collision situation. Much muttering and cursing then ensued and we lit up our strobe light again, even though it's illegal. Who cares around here as long as you are seen. But there appeared to be no-one in their wheelhouse or on deck so probably all asleep or playing Mahjong!!
At one stage we hove to again in order to lose some time so that our approach into here (Manggar) was in daylight. On Sunday morning we made our approach which was fraught because, although we had approach co-ordinates, the chartplotter was "out" as usual and there is no way of knowng by how much. At one point we passed over a 7 metre patch suddenly from around 20 metres with nothing around to take a sight on. We couldn't even see the island such was the haze so to all intents and purposes we were still in the wide open sea except for the diminishing depths. However, we continued creeping in until we saw a small Pulau which was charted and that gave us some confirmation of where we were. Then, after giving some charted bommies a wide berth, we altered course for the anchorage. What a disappointment after all the effort and stress of getting in here. Sail Indonesia lures us here with false promise of good anchorages and attractions ashore but the reality is just the same as in Kupang. The anchorage is on a lee shore (which we suspected) and is rolly to say the least. Today we made 2 abortive attempts to go ashore. The first caused us to turn back when we started shipping water into the dinghy and getting somewhat wet and the second this afternoon we aborted when we got close to the beach and saw the surf on the beach. We might have got ashore but getting back in the dark was not a happy prospect. The possibility of swamping the outboard was very real. So we haven't been ashore and will be leaving tomorrow for the northern anchorage 62 miles on which will at least be sheltered.
Sail Indonesia is only concerned with its own aggrandisement and currying favour with local communities. The welfare and safety of its yachting participants seems to us to come a very distant 3rd. and is to our mind reprehensible. No responsible skipper would deliberately anchor his boat on a lee shore, much less go ashore and leave it. And yet that's exactly what we had to do in Kupang, but here after experiencing the conditions in the dinghy we will not be doing that. Not only that, there is very little of practical nautical advice proffered by sail Indonesia which is the least one might expect from the organiser of an international yachting rally. We would have no hesitation in saying and recommending to anyone who might listen that anyone contemplating sailing through Indonesia does so on an independent basis and should avoid Sail Indonesia like the plague. We don't say this lightly because we have met some great people during our travels, but for the most part this has been totally remote from Sail Indonesia and anything they might have tried to organise. They attempt to beguile participants by saying that they can smooth the bureaucratic way but with a bit of elementary research it is quite possible to do all that independently and get to choose proper and safe anchorages. This will not be our last word on the subject - that's for sure.
A standout exception to the above was the time we spent at Medana Bay on Pulau Lombok. The help that was extended to us there was outstanding and included assistance in procuring a new dinghy. We will not forget Peter and his wife Ace and all their staff who were so good to us. A very happy interlude and we hope to meet them all again some day. We would recommend for any independent sailors to make Medana Bay on Lombok an essential stopover during any passage through Indonesia.
On a far more happier note Jean received some wonderful news during our last night at sea. Carter James Lanaway (7 lbs. 8 ozs.) had been born the previous Thursday night (the 3rd.) and she is a Grandma for the first time at 66!! It's taken Perry a while but it seems he has got the hang of it with an amazing lady (Tracie) at last! So now it is even more urgent to get to Pangkor in Malaysia so that Jean can get home to make the acquaintance of young Carter (Peapod!). We have had photos sent already and the poor little chap looks quite put out at having to enter this world. He is a bonny wee chap though and it will be great to meet him in person.
Love from us.............
Jim and Jean
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Manggar
E. Belitung
Indonesia

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Fwd: foto kunjungan ke TK

These are some photos of Jean when she visited a kindergarten at Medana Bay on Lombok. We donated some coloured pencils, colouring pads and swimming goggles and 3 of the children won goggles for having the best artwork. One in particular was evidently very gifted in that direction. These photos were kindly sent to us by Wulan at Medana Bay.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: admin wisatasamudera <admin@wisatasamudera.com>
Date: 27 September 2013 07:18
Subject: Fwd: foto kunjungan ke TK
To: tiare.taporo@gmail.com
Cc: Peter Cranfield <Peter.Cranfield@csaglobal.com>, ACE ROBIN <acerobin@gmail.com>, Ratih Widihandayani <ratih.widihandayani@yahoo.com>, Dini - Global Export Services <dini@globalexport.asia>

Dear Mrs Jean and Mr Jim,

Merci and Je vais apprendre plusieurs langues France.

Have a nice trip.

Regards,

WULAN

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: admin wisatasamudera <admin@wisatasamudera.com>
Date: 26 September 2013 16:53
Subject: Fwd: foto kunjungan ke TK
To: zmq5985@sailmail.com
Cc: Peter Cranfield <Peter.Cranfield@csaglobal.com>, ACE ROBIN <acerobin@gmail.com>, Dini - Global Export Services <dini@globalexport.asia>, Ratih Widihandayani <ratih.widihandayani@yahoo.com>

Dear Mrs Jean and Mr Jim,

Thank you for your coming in our Marina.

I am glad to see nice people both of you.

Hopefully we can meet again here.

Here is I send you picture when you visited kinder garden in the village.

Have a nice trip and see you.

Au revoir and merci for Mr Jim.

Warm Regards,
WULAN

--
PT WISATA ALAM SAMUDERA
Jalan Raya Meninting 27
Montong – SENGGIGI  83355
LOMBOK, INDONESIA
Telp +62 370 661 0037
Fax + 62 370 633 564
admin@wisatasamudera.com
admin@medanabaymarina.com

--
PT WISATA ALAM SAMUDERA
Jalan Raya Meninting 27
Montong – SENGGIGI  83355
LOMBOK, INDONESIA
Telp +62 370 661 0037
Fax + 62 370 633 564
admin@wisatasamudera.com
admin@medanabaymarina.com