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There are several things we will definitely NOT miss.
The main thing is the ruinous cost of living here (particularly in Darwin) - and particularly when for the majority of our stay the Kiwi has been valued at around 23% less than the Aussie. Try AUD833 for a new oil pressure gauge and sender! Not the fault of the company which installed same. Just an example of the high prices for everything here. The supplier originally supplied an incorrect sender which would not talk to the gauge and that took a bit of detective work - not something which Jim could ever have sorted out on his own. We haven't paid for the extra time taken but very annoying and inconvenient.
The other issue which will be forever indelibly imprinted on our minds is the voracious midges (sandflies). Otherwise known as noseeums. These vicious little bastards excrete a liquid onto your skin which dissolves the skin and then they bite through the hole created. They start to itch about 30 minutes after biting and are very toxic. The bite sites then often become infected and our legs are very scarred as a result. Jim has been more affected; sometimes on waking in the morning his lips are swollen from the toxin from the bites and this is in spite of having all open ports covered by nets, a mosquito coil burning in the companionway, and a Pyrethrum "puffer" going all night in the saloon. Never a problem with mosquitos - only the noseeums which are way worse in Darwin than further south - and that's saying something. Darwin is otherwise a pleasant town but we could never live here. On the positive side we have met many great people during our sojourn in Oz and we will not forget them. We have been offered practical help at times including the use of vehicles. The generosity of Aussies (once you get to know them) knows no bounds.
Jean has finally found someone who has successfully treated her back and thankfully she is much better. Belinda not only did her so much good (Bowen & Emmett techniques), but she also took Jean to Coles to pick up groceries already purchased and then brought her back to the marina in her little 2 seater Smart!! Wonderful service compared with the incompetent Osteopath encountered 2 days ago.
The boat is a shambles with still unstowed provisions but we are making inroads. Tomorrow we go to the Darwin sailing Club to clear Customs. And then Saturday morning we leave the marina and set sail for Kupang, Indonesia.
More fascinating news to come!!
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
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Thursday 25 July 2013
Wednesday 24 July 2013
Darwin and Australia departure looming close
It is now Thursday 25th. July and we are scheduled to set sail again on Saturday for Kupang on Indonesian Timor.
It seems almost no time since we arrived here 3 weeks ago. We have enjoyed our time here with meeting such a diverse range of fellow yachtsmen. We have not only met many nationalities in Sail Indonesia, but have also met some solo sailors who are heading for the Cape of Good Hope on their way home. Stuart MacDonald of "Beyond" is a case in point. He is a Scotsman and also a master mariner who regaled us with tales of his past experiences. Andy, a Swede who is beside us at the moment and is leaving in a day or so. We have the utmost admiration for these solo single minded sailors and wish them fair winds. They are heading for Christmas Is., Cocos Keeling and then Reunion or Mauritius before tackling the notorious S. African coast before Cape Town. It's 6,500 miles from here and at an average speed of 5 knots that's 1300 hours or 54 days. This is the alternative facing many cruisers with the piracy as it is off the Somalian coast. For us, we will just spend 2-3 years in SE Asia before deciding on our future strategy.
We have enjoyed Darwin and have found it to be a very pleasant town - very leafy with fairly modern buildings by and large after the Japanese totally destroyed the place in 1942. Darwin at the moment is enjoying a boom with LNG onshore processing plants (Japanese owned!!) being established before the gas is shipped offshore. Don't know what the medium term holds as there is a world wide glut of natural gas, but no doubt long term things will continue to boom. There are apartment buildings going up all over town and our friend Neil is involved with one of those. It is like Auckland at the moment with rentals and property prices going through the roof. Prices for everything else are expensive - especially for us with the NZ/AUS currency cross rate. This has improved to around NZD1.00/AUD0.86 but still puts us at a disadvantage. It's ironic that the exchange rate is improving just as we are departing after 18 months here!!
Neil has very kindly been lending us his car and we have been able to achieve all our errands as a result. Filling LPG bottles and provision shopping to name but a few. Last Saturday there was a Sail Indonesia BBQ at the Darwin Sailing Club which we attended and renewed acquaintance with our friends mainly on catamarans which cannot enter the locked marinas and consequently have to anchor off at Fannie Bay. Then yesterday there was a technical briefing at the Darwin Hilton by Sail Indonesia where we were brought up to date with the latest issues with sailing through Indonesia - not least of which are the endless documentation requirements. Indonesia runs on paperwork - like India!! We are due to clear Australian Customs at the sailing club on Friday morning when we will receive our CAITS (cruising permits) for Indonesia and then the official start is at 1100 on Saturday - 80 boats all moving across the start line together - frightening!! Duty free booze is being delivered on Friday afternoon - most important!! We are booked to leave Tipperary at high tide early Saturday morning.
First port is Kupang on the island of Indonesian Timor 470 nautical miles from here. The weather forecast is for fairly light winds - no more than 10 knots from the E to SE so we should have a gentle start! We'll keep you regaled!!
Lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxox
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It seems almost no time since we arrived here 3 weeks ago. We have enjoyed our time here with meeting such a diverse range of fellow yachtsmen. We have not only met many nationalities in Sail Indonesia, but have also met some solo sailors who are heading for the Cape of Good Hope on their way home. Stuart MacDonald of "Beyond" is a case in point. He is a Scotsman and also a master mariner who regaled us with tales of his past experiences. Andy, a Swede who is beside us at the moment and is leaving in a day or so. We have the utmost admiration for these solo single minded sailors and wish them fair winds. They are heading for Christmas Is., Cocos Keeling and then Reunion or Mauritius before tackling the notorious S. African coast before Cape Town. It's 6,500 miles from here and at an average speed of 5 knots that's 1300 hours or 54 days. This is the alternative facing many cruisers with the piracy as it is off the Somalian coast. For us, we will just spend 2-3 years in SE Asia before deciding on our future strategy.
We have enjoyed Darwin and have found it to be a very pleasant town - very leafy with fairly modern buildings by and large after the Japanese totally destroyed the place in 1942. Darwin at the moment is enjoying a boom with LNG onshore processing plants (Japanese owned!!) being established before the gas is shipped offshore. Don't know what the medium term holds as there is a world wide glut of natural gas, but no doubt long term things will continue to boom. There are apartment buildings going up all over town and our friend Neil is involved with one of those. It is like Auckland at the moment with rentals and property prices going through the roof. Prices for everything else are expensive - especially for us with the NZ/AUS currency cross rate. This has improved to around NZD1.00/AUD0.86 but still puts us at a disadvantage. It's ironic that the exchange rate is improving just as we are departing after 18 months here!!
Neil has very kindly been lending us his car and we have been able to achieve all our errands as a result. Filling LPG bottles and provision shopping to name but a few. Last Saturday there was a Sail Indonesia BBQ at the Darwin Sailing Club which we attended and renewed acquaintance with our friends mainly on catamarans which cannot enter the locked marinas and consequently have to anchor off at Fannie Bay. Then yesterday there was a technical briefing at the Darwin Hilton by Sail Indonesia where we were brought up to date with the latest issues with sailing through Indonesia - not least of which are the endless documentation requirements. Indonesia runs on paperwork - like India!! We are due to clear Australian Customs at the sailing club on Friday morning when we will receive our CAITS (cruising permits) for Indonesia and then the official start is at 1100 on Saturday - 80 boats all moving across the start line together - frightening!! Duty free booze is being delivered on Friday afternoon - most important!! We are booked to leave Tipperary at high tide early Saturday morning.
First port is Kupang on the island of Indonesian Timor 470 nautical miles from here. The weather forecast is for fairly light winds - no more than 10 knots from the E to SE so we should have a gentle start! We'll keep you regaled!!
Lotsaluv from us............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxox
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Saturday 13 July 2013
History
Yesterday, while we still had the car, we visited the Darwin Aviation Museum which had very compelling exhibits relating to the 1st. and most destructive air raids on Darwin by the Japanese on 19th. February 1942. Over 200 people killed and a number of ships, including the US destroyer USS Peary, sunk. The main targets were the air force bases here and at Katherine and the port installations. They were spectacularly successful and during the entire bombing campaign more bombs were dropped on Darwin than were used at Pearl Harbour, only 2 months previously. In fact it was the same Japanese Navy task force (including 4 carriers) just north of Darwin in the Arafura Sea that carried out the assault on Pearl Harbour. Darwin was largely destroyed and all civilians were evacuated south. In fact no civilians were allowed to return until 1946. The scale of the destruction and loss of life was heavily censored so that much of Australia was not aware how extensive these and subsequent air raids actually were. Apparently the Japanese High Command soon after seriously considered invasion. The Navy was pro invasion and the Army against, because they no doubt realised the logistical difficulties. But it was a close thing.
There were other exhibits including a Mirage fighter and a F111 fighter bomber - all used by the RAAF at various times. But the piece de resistance was the only southern hemisphere exhibit of a USAF B52 bomber. This was the aircraft which, in its various stages of development, was used by the US Strategic Air Command at the height of the Cold War to keep nuclear bombs and missiles permanently in the air ready for instant deployment against the USSR in the event that the Russians launched a nuclear attack. During those years we were a hairsbreadth away from MAD (Mutually Assured Destruction) - and viewing that aircraft brought that reality vividly home. Of course B52's were also used to bomb Vietnam and a greater weight of ordnance was dropped on Vietnam than was used during the entire 2nd. World War.
The aircraft is painted matt black and is massive with a huge wingspan to enable it to carry the payload of ordnance that it did. It is powered by eight Pratt and Whitney jet engines and there are landing wheels, not only at 2 locations under the fuselage, but also out near each wingtip. There was a propaganda film repeatedly playing emphasising the role of "peacekeeper" that this aircraft was purported to have played during the Cold War, but looking at it up close and standing in the open bomb bay only emphasised the fact that it was capable of and used as an instrument of mass destruction and death. Very sobering and sinister indeed and one was left with a nasty cold feeling. We had gone to the museum with our Norwegian friends and we all felt it. The conversation was muted for a time afterwards.
We then returned to the city to visit Customs. Frank and Morten arranged their clearance out as they were departing for Kupang (Indonesia) in the morning and we did the preliminaries towards our own clearance later in the month. Then it was some more provision shopping and we all returned to the marina.
Then this morning at 0645 "Frida" cast off from her berth and we were there to wave them off as they passed through the marina lock at high tide. Again it emphasised the constant farewelling of friends that in all probability we will never see again. They will have left Indonesia before we arrive there and they are bound for Christmas Island before crossing the South Indian Ocean bound for Reunion and Durban before rounding the Cape of Good Hope to Cape Town en route to home in Stavanger, Norway. We wished them all the very best.
Work has now started in earnest on Tiare as we have only 11 days left to attend to our list of things to do including provisioning for the next 3 months. Although it won't be as much of a problem as provisioning to come from Cairns to Darwin as we will be plied with fresh produce everywhere we stop in Indonesia. We are looking forward to that.
More to come and much love from....................
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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There were other exhibits including a Mirage fighter and a F111 fighter bomber - all used by the RAAF at various times. But the piece de resistance was the only southern hemisphere exhibit of a USAF B52 bomber. This was the aircraft which, in its various stages of development, was used by the US Strategic Air Command at the height of the Cold War to keep nuclear bombs and missiles permanently in the air ready for instant deployment against the USSR in the event that the Russians launched a nuclear attack. During those years we were a hairsbreadth away from MAD (Mutually Assured Destruction) - and viewing that aircraft brought that reality vividly home. Of course B52's were also used to bomb Vietnam and a greater weight of ordnance was dropped on Vietnam than was used during the entire 2nd. World War.
The aircraft is painted matt black and is massive with a huge wingspan to enable it to carry the payload of ordnance that it did. It is powered by eight Pratt and Whitney jet engines and there are landing wheels, not only at 2 locations under the fuselage, but also out near each wingtip. There was a propaganda film repeatedly playing emphasising the role of "peacekeeper" that this aircraft was purported to have played during the Cold War, but looking at it up close and standing in the open bomb bay only emphasised the fact that it was capable of and used as an instrument of mass destruction and death. Very sobering and sinister indeed and one was left with a nasty cold feeling. We had gone to the museum with our Norwegian friends and we all felt it. The conversation was muted for a time afterwards.
We then returned to the city to visit Customs. Frank and Morten arranged their clearance out as they were departing for Kupang (Indonesia) in the morning and we did the preliminaries towards our own clearance later in the month. Then it was some more provision shopping and we all returned to the marina.
Then this morning at 0645 "Frida" cast off from her berth and we were there to wave them off as they passed through the marina lock at high tide. Again it emphasised the constant farewelling of friends that in all probability we will never see again. They will have left Indonesia before we arrive there and they are bound for Christmas Island before crossing the South Indian Ocean bound for Reunion and Durban before rounding the Cape of Good Hope to Cape Town en route to home in Stavanger, Norway. We wished them all the very best.
Work has now started in earnest on Tiare as we have only 11 days left to attend to our list of things to do including provisioning for the next 3 months. Although it won't be as much of a problem as provisioning to come from Cairns to Darwin as we will be plied with fresh produce everywhere we stop in Indonesia. We are looking forward to that.
More to come and much love from....................
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
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Thursday 11 July 2013
Darwin
It's now 7 days since we arrived in Darwin. Tipperary Marina is great and highly recommended by us. Very low key and all (incl. the lock gates operation) is handled by Keith who is an old Indonesia hand. So, we will be picking his brains over the next week or so. Tipperary is entirely surrounded at close quarters by low rise apartments - more like terrace houses really and there is a convenience store (very expensive), a restaurant and an excellent chandlery close by.
Darwin is booming due to the work being done on the local LNG terminal. Our friend, Neil is working as site manager for a national construction company and has given us all sorts of amazing statistics for this vibrant city. He lent us his car the other day and we visited the Indonesian Consulate to organise our Social Visas, Customs to enquire about duty free fuel and booze (!), and Coles to organise some much needed supplies. We had the Norwegians off "Frida" with us for the Consulate and Customs and we then drove to Fannie Bay to collect our rally packs from Sail Indonesia. Alas, although they know the total number of boats in the rally (over 80), they had run out of copies! Shades of what to expect in Indonesia. So we organised for them to deliver ours to us at Tipperary as it's not simple for us to get to Fannie Bay without a car. This duly happened.
We have cleaned the boat of all the salt accumulated over the last 6 weeks including hoisting and hosing the sails.
Last weekend we went to the Mindil Beach markets near the Darwin Sailing Club. Quite interesting but apart from 1 or 2 stalls pretty ho-hum. And the so-called ethnic food stalls were very ordinary. They were much better at Rusty's Market in Cairns.
The highlight of the last week was our teaming up with Frank and Morten of "Frida" when we decided to jointly hire a car and drive on Wednesday to Jabiru - about 260 kms. east from Darwin on the border of Arnhem Land and the Kakadu National Park. The attraction at Jabiru was a cruise on the East Alligator River where we saw some small crocodiles and were escorted by 2 Aboriginals who demonstrated various spears and gave eloquent explanations of various cultural issues. We landed on the river bank and climbed a rock for a view upstream with dramatic rock formations in the background. Quite spiritual when you realise that the Aboriginals have been living in this area for at least 60,000 years - and in fact this statistic is true of all of Australia. We stayed in a 2 bedroom cabin at Lakeview Park which was very comfortable and had dinner at a local social club. Eateries are thin on the ground in Jabiru.
Today we left to return to Darwin and about 70 kms short of Darwin stopped for a cruise on the Adelaide River to see the famous Jumping Crocodiles. For us this was the highlight of the last 2 days. The boat had 2 decks and we found that the best views were to be had from the lower deck. The crocodiles are well trained and you could see sometimes as many as 6 swimming towards the boat. Then the practice was to suspend meat bones from long poles out over the water and the crocs would come at least half out of the water to grab the prize. It was amazing to watch and well worth the cost of $25 per person. We were also treated to a close up view of a 6 metre (18') croc on a mud bank just under the bows. The water was a muddy brown and completely opaque and the crocs just appeared. There was no way of knowing where they were until they surfaced. Very sinister and chilling. Definitely NO swimming. Photos coming!!
Then back to Tipperary and preparing for getting the boat ready for the next stage - 2,500 miles to Johore in southern Peninsula Malaysia.
More soon.
Love from us..............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxox
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Darwin is booming due to the work being done on the local LNG terminal. Our friend, Neil is working as site manager for a national construction company and has given us all sorts of amazing statistics for this vibrant city. He lent us his car the other day and we visited the Indonesian Consulate to organise our Social Visas, Customs to enquire about duty free fuel and booze (!), and Coles to organise some much needed supplies. We had the Norwegians off "Frida" with us for the Consulate and Customs and we then drove to Fannie Bay to collect our rally packs from Sail Indonesia. Alas, although they know the total number of boats in the rally (over 80), they had run out of copies! Shades of what to expect in Indonesia. So we organised for them to deliver ours to us at Tipperary as it's not simple for us to get to Fannie Bay without a car. This duly happened.
We have cleaned the boat of all the salt accumulated over the last 6 weeks including hoisting and hosing the sails.
Last weekend we went to the Mindil Beach markets near the Darwin Sailing Club. Quite interesting but apart from 1 or 2 stalls pretty ho-hum. And the so-called ethnic food stalls were very ordinary. They were much better at Rusty's Market in Cairns.
The highlight of the last week was our teaming up with Frank and Morten of "Frida" when we decided to jointly hire a car and drive on Wednesday to Jabiru - about 260 kms. east from Darwin on the border of Arnhem Land and the Kakadu National Park. The attraction at Jabiru was a cruise on the East Alligator River where we saw some small crocodiles and were escorted by 2 Aboriginals who demonstrated various spears and gave eloquent explanations of various cultural issues. We landed on the river bank and climbed a rock for a view upstream with dramatic rock formations in the background. Quite spiritual when you realise that the Aboriginals have been living in this area for at least 60,000 years - and in fact this statistic is true of all of Australia. We stayed in a 2 bedroom cabin at Lakeview Park which was very comfortable and had dinner at a local social club. Eateries are thin on the ground in Jabiru.
Today we left to return to Darwin and about 70 kms short of Darwin stopped for a cruise on the Adelaide River to see the famous Jumping Crocodiles. For us this was the highlight of the last 2 days. The boat had 2 decks and we found that the best views were to be had from the lower deck. The crocodiles are well trained and you could see sometimes as many as 6 swimming towards the boat. Then the practice was to suspend meat bones from long poles out over the water and the crocs would come at least half out of the water to grab the prize. It was amazing to watch and well worth the cost of $25 per person. We were also treated to a close up view of a 6 metre (18') croc on a mud bank just under the bows. The water was a muddy brown and completely opaque and the crocs just appeared. There was no way of knowing where they were until they surfaced. Very sinister and chilling. Definitely NO swimming. Photos coming!!
Then back to Tipperary and preparing for getting the boat ready for the next stage - 2,500 miles to Johore in southern Peninsula Malaysia.
More soon.
Love from us..............
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxox
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Saturday 6 July 2013
Darwin at last 04/07/2013. Lat 12 degrees 26.9' S Long. 130 degrees 51.0' E
Well, we've had some milestones on this journey - Cape York and crossing the Gulf of Carpentaria being the main ones. But now, the biggest of all when we arrived in Darwin on the 4th. July.
But first we must go back........
Sunday 30th. June.
We left the first anchorage in Port Essington and headed across the inlet (6 miles) to Coral Bay on the western side where there is an upmarket eco resort. On the way across we had gusts over 30 knots - we are getting heartily sick of this constant wind. And as there's an 18 mile fetch up the inlet from the south, the seas manage to rise to some ferocity. So, we steamed across under very reduced sail and dropped anchor off the resort. The anchorage was rolly as usual but we're used to that now and we were just glad to be somewhere for a couple of days. As the boost pump on the watermaker had finally given up the ghost we had to devise some means of getting water from the shore out to the yacht. Bill on "Kularoo" and another Aussie on a very scruffy boat lent us some 20 liter containers and so the plan was to use them in the morning. In the meantime we went ashore and checked out the resort which had eye watering prices. We were so tired when we went ashore that we could hardly put one foot in front of the other! Beer $9-10 a bottle and a daily charge for anchoring in the bay of $25 per boat (this included use of all the resort facilities including the pool) - although they tried to say it was $15 per person. They claimed that the justification for this was that they leased the property from local Aborigines and the lease included the bays and all the associated foreshore. Maybe shades of what is to come in Godszone??? Anyway, we didn't quibble and paid for 2 days. The resort is very low key and very impressive. Whoever developed it had done an excellent job. It's all single story with a great view of the bay from the restaurant and other public areas. And the pool is a magnificent example of natural pool building. You could almost swear that you were in a billabong with the resident crocodile about to make an appearance.
Monday 1st. July.
We spent the first part of the morning living up to our star signs - Aquarius (the water carrier). Jim plus 3 x 20 litre containers in our little dinghy was quite enough of a load and we then hoisted them on board by means of the spinnaker halyard. Then decanting into the yacht's tanks needed a bit of ingenuity but all was accomplished (full tanks) after only three trips and in spite of the ever present strong wind and rolling anchorage. Then we went back ashore with Bill and Gael from "Kilaroo" for lunch - $30 per head. It was a well prepared and presented meal but for $30 one might have expected a bigger piece of fish, especially as they claimed to have caught it themselves. Incidentally diesel was $5 per litre so we didn't buy any of that, although it would have given us some peace of mind. However, in the event we were to get so much wind that we did not have to use much fuel. Later our friends Chris and Lyn arrived on "Out of the Blue II" arrived along with another catamaran "Alleycat". It was great to be in touch with them all again.
Tuesday 2nd. July.
After a few radio conversations with "Kularoo" we eventually overcame our indecision and left Coral Bay in a strong wind warning for Popham Bay (31 miles) which was to be our jumping off point for the infamous Cape Don and the tide strewn van Dieman Gulf. There is a great deal of history in this area, some of which we have read about and some very tragic such as the settlement at Victoria in Port Essington, but regrettably we have never had time to indulge this interest. We've always had the deadline to get to Darwin and usually weather forecasts dictated when we left anchorages. You can't afford to swing around an anchor for 3 or 4 days if there is a weather window because then you could be waiting for another week for the high over NZ to bugger off!! We had a great sail in the usual strong winds and covered the distance quickly giving Vashon Head at the western entrance to Port Essington a 5 mile berth due to the usual reefs and shoals. Then when we turned into Popham the wind died and so did our engine!! On top of that there was a tidal current over 1 knot taking us back out to sea!! So, "Kularoo" kindly took us in tow for the 4 miles into the anchorage. It's no easy matter towing a 15 ton yacht and Bill on "Kularoo" did a sterling job. We will be forever grateful. We were lucky to have been with them in convoy. The problem turned out to be air in the fuel which we can only surmise came about due to the turbulent seas washing fuel around in the fuel tanks. We had let the port tank that the fuel is drawn from get a bit low whereas the starboard tank remained fairly full - now they are equalised!! It was then a matter of "bleeding" the fuel system and hey presto away she went again. This was accomplished in smoother waters before we reached the anchorage. But not without stress and the effort of working on the engine in the heat. All the while Jean steered the yacht to follow "Kularoo". At least the anchorage was smooth and we could get a much needed sleep before tackling the notorious van Dieman Gulf.
Wednesday 3rd. July.
First we need to repeat the warning in the cruising guide "NT Coast Cruising Guide" by John Knight to emphasise the issues with wind and tide in the van Dieman Gulf. We reproduce here: "Dundas Strait is 15 miles across at its narrowest point and passes a vast amount of water with each tide back and forth between van Dieman Gulf and the Arafura Sea. The wind is also funneled through the gap. The result of this interaction is strong tidal streams and very rough water. Overfalls occur off the major headlands and in mid-channel, with tidal streams at over 3.5 knots. Close inshore the flow is even faster where constricted with shoals. At times the whole strait is churned into breaking seas by wind and tide. In late morning when the wind may rise to 20-25 knots, progress to windward against steep breaking seas can be almost impossible. Waves often reach 2 metres and being short bring the vessel to a shuddering halt before sweeping aboard. The most severe conditions will be met off Cape Don". This was the background to our thinking prior to starting this passage in order to get to Darwin. No wonder we were apprehensive!
It was anchors aweigh again at 0500 in light winds and no indication of the rough water for the next 50 miles ahead. We motorsailed just ahead of "Kullaroo" in the dark between a small island and the mainland all with large reefs around them. We had one reef in the main but began wondering whether we should shake it out when the wind started increasing. So we decided to leave things as they were and see how things developed. We didn't have to wait long and with some difficulty put the 2nd reef in just in time. We had timed our arrival off Cape Don to coincide with the flood into Darwin but as the tides were neaps rather than springs, the flow was not very strong - about 1.5 knots at times. Just as well because the wind steadily increased as did the seas and Jim was regretting his earlier decision not to deploy the staysail but with the wind more ahead of us contrary to forecasts and very strong the staysail was becoming necessary. Jim then made 3 attempts to hoist the sail but it took 3 tries before being successful in the conditions. With the motion of the boat so violent it was all one could do to hang on let alone actually do anything but in the end up it went. All the while the Fleming self steering steered the boat and handled the conditions with normal aplomb. Once the staysail was hoisted we reduced the genoa and then under the double reefed main she was much more manageable. We had the usual waves breaking against the boat and being showered with water in the cockpit. We were forced over to the Melville Is. south coast by the wind and had some shoals to avoid. A barge ahead of us going our way interrupted a radio conversation we were having with "Kullaroo" to say there was no problem going between a gap in the shoals and that the seas would be less. One wouldn't want to go over them because then the water becomes even more turbulent in the shallows. However, once abeam of Cape Keith on Melville Island the wind shifted more in our favour and we were able to lay Cape Hotham, our anchorage destination. Then the wind gradually reduced in strength which was a great contrast after the earlier hours. So much so that we spent the last 12 miles (2 hrs) motorsailing. Cape Hotham was the usual uninteresting low lying peninsula and we eventually anchored with "Kullaroo" (and 6 other yachts) in Mangrove Bay about 2 miles south and on the Darwin side of the cape. All the way through van Dieman Gulf the colour of the water reminded us of snow melt in the south island and the shore in the anchorage was simply very thickly wooded with mangroves - ideal crocodile habitat. Not conducive for going ashore and meeting crocodiles! "Happy Camper" meatballs and rice for dinner and we collapsed into bed exhausted.
Thursday 4th. July.
Not quite so early to up anchor this morning, but still underway at 0600 - 45 more miles to the end of this epic journey. Finished up motorsailing the whole way because the wind only briefly went above 12 knots! On "Kularoo's" recommendation we took a slightly shorter route through South Channel south of the Vernon Islands - a little tortuous between reefs but reasonably picturesque and a bit of a navigation challenge to keep us awake! Had a good favourable current for a time. Then a long boring stretch into Darwin Harbour passing over Middle Ground - a shoal but with enough water for us. Once we had phone contact we rang the number for Fisheries who handle the compulsory hull inspections for foreign marine organisms. A nuisance but we couldn't enter any marina without the necessary piece of paper. We managed to arrange an appointment for 1330 which was great and meant we wouldn't have to anchor and wait. So we headed lickety split for the Cullen Point Marina where there is an all-tide pontoon just outside the marina lock gates where one can get fuel and have the inspection done. We rafted alongside a Norwegian yacht ("Frida") to await the divers. In the meantime we made the acquaintance of the skipper of "Frida" (Frank) and had a series of interesting conversations. His English is excellent. Then the diving tender duly arrived and rafted outside of us. Although the inspection was free, it was no wonder to us why things are so expensive in Australia, and in particular in the NT. There were 6 guys on the boat and they had state of the art diving gear all at a phenomenal hourly rate, no doubt. And all they did was stand around while one of them swam under the boat, checked our engine water intake strainer (at our request), and squirt some biocide into all our salt water intakes except the one for the watermaker. And they've no hope of stopping any unwanted organisms because they don't treat boats that don't go into marinas! An example of loony bureaucracy gone mad. Then we were not allowed to use the engine or the head for 14 hours as they both use salt water. No big deal and we had a peaceful night tied up to "Frida".
Friday 5th. July.
We moved up to the fuel bowser just ahead of us and managed to squeeze in 168 litres (incl. 60 litres which we carry in containers on deck). This was less than we expected so that was a pleasant surprise. Then back alongside "Frida" to await departure for Tipperary Waters Marina nearer to high tide. We left Cullen Point at 1230 for the 5 miles to Tipperary - "Frida" following as she was going in there too.. This took us past the commercial wharves and then around into Frances Bay Creek. Quite shallow there and we had to be religious about keeping to the channel. We were in touch by VHF with Keith (the lockmaster at Tipperary) and he had us in sight. Then his handheld VHF ran out of battery and without continuing instructions we very nearly ran aground - it was only that Jean saw this frantically waving figure on the rock wall that saved us from this ignominious fate! However, all was well and we entered the entrance to the marina lock and tied up. Keith explained the procedure to us and closed the outer gates. Then a large noisy pump started and the water level started rising. Up we rose about 3 metres - a very strange feeling. A first for us and also for Tiare! Then Keith drove Jim to the office where he explained where our berth was and then back to the boat where Jean was looking after the mooring lines on the lock wall. Plenty of fenders!! The inner gates then opened and we moved into Tipperary and to our berth very close in. Excellent and sooooo glad to finally be here!!! All marinas in Darwin have lock gates as the tidal range can be as much as 7 metres and it's the only way marinas can operate.
We finally started "coming down" and were wandering around like zombies doing odd tidying up jobs. Had a few whiskies and started feeling a bit better then decided to go to a cafe not 30 metres away for dinner. Met Frank and his crew (Morten) and had dinner with them. More good conversation but wilting towards the end! Into bed and almost immediately in lala land!
Saturday 6th. July.
Beautiful weather - even somewhat cold in the early hours. So, early this morning we hoisted the main before any wind started and hosed all the salt off it and the rest of the boat. Then bacon and real (!) eggs for breakfast and while we were waiting for the sail to dry before furling it for the duration there was a hail from the dock and it was Neil who we had last seen on "Cigale" in northern New Caledonia in 2011. We knew he was working in Darwin and expected to make contact sometime but it was great to see him and reminisce. He has offered the use of his car from time to time which will be a boon. There is also a reasonable bus service from here into town (only 10 minutes) and a similar time up to Fannie Bay where we will go on Monday to pick up the Rally information from the Indonesia Rally people at the Darwin Sailing Club. We need to apply for our Indonesian Social Visas from the Consulate also fairly soon.
We've already got the broken genoa to the sail loft and collected our replacement watermaker pump. Haven't fitted it yet - maybe tomorrow? Feeling much better now and as this is being typed some more whisky which induces a most mellow feeling!!
We'll get out and about some more from tomorrow.
We feel that the passage from Cairns to here has been probably the most physically demanding thing either of us has ever been involved in. Not without its lighter moments (see www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com) but it's the incessant wind that's been psychologically and physically demanding. Sailing downwind in a monohull is better than sailing upwind but we ROLL. The best for us is a beam reach - but this rarely happened except across Carpentaria but then we had the tidal effects as well and had 4-5 metre seas. However, we are now finally here and very relieved to be relaxed in a good marina. Plenty of fellow yachties we can relate to and now looking forward to the next stage of our adventure - 450 miles to Kupang in Indonesian Timor.
More from us again very soon.
Lots of love
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
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But first we must go back........
Sunday 30th. June.
We left the first anchorage in Port Essington and headed across the inlet (6 miles) to Coral Bay on the western side where there is an upmarket eco resort. On the way across we had gusts over 30 knots - we are getting heartily sick of this constant wind. And as there's an 18 mile fetch up the inlet from the south, the seas manage to rise to some ferocity. So, we steamed across under very reduced sail and dropped anchor off the resort. The anchorage was rolly as usual but we're used to that now and we were just glad to be somewhere for a couple of days. As the boost pump on the watermaker had finally given up the ghost we had to devise some means of getting water from the shore out to the yacht. Bill on "Kularoo" and another Aussie on a very scruffy boat lent us some 20 liter containers and so the plan was to use them in the morning. In the meantime we went ashore and checked out the resort which had eye watering prices. We were so tired when we went ashore that we could hardly put one foot in front of the other! Beer $9-10 a bottle and a daily charge for anchoring in the bay of $25 per boat (this included use of all the resort facilities including the pool) - although they tried to say it was $15 per person. They claimed that the justification for this was that they leased the property from local Aborigines and the lease included the bays and all the associated foreshore. Maybe shades of what is to come in Godszone??? Anyway, we didn't quibble and paid for 2 days. The resort is very low key and very impressive. Whoever developed it had done an excellent job. It's all single story with a great view of the bay from the restaurant and other public areas. And the pool is a magnificent example of natural pool building. You could almost swear that you were in a billabong with the resident crocodile about to make an appearance.
Monday 1st. July.
We spent the first part of the morning living up to our star signs - Aquarius (the water carrier). Jim plus 3 x 20 litre containers in our little dinghy was quite enough of a load and we then hoisted them on board by means of the spinnaker halyard. Then decanting into the yacht's tanks needed a bit of ingenuity but all was accomplished (full tanks) after only three trips and in spite of the ever present strong wind and rolling anchorage. Then we went back ashore with Bill and Gael from "Kilaroo" for lunch - $30 per head. It was a well prepared and presented meal but for $30 one might have expected a bigger piece of fish, especially as they claimed to have caught it themselves. Incidentally diesel was $5 per litre so we didn't buy any of that, although it would have given us some peace of mind. However, in the event we were to get so much wind that we did not have to use much fuel. Later our friends Chris and Lyn arrived on "Out of the Blue II" arrived along with another catamaran "Alleycat". It was great to be in touch with them all again.
Tuesday 2nd. July.
After a few radio conversations with "Kularoo" we eventually overcame our indecision and left Coral Bay in a strong wind warning for Popham Bay (31 miles) which was to be our jumping off point for the infamous Cape Don and the tide strewn van Dieman Gulf. There is a great deal of history in this area, some of which we have read about and some very tragic such as the settlement at Victoria in Port Essington, but regrettably we have never had time to indulge this interest. We've always had the deadline to get to Darwin and usually weather forecasts dictated when we left anchorages. You can't afford to swing around an anchor for 3 or 4 days if there is a weather window because then you could be waiting for another week for the high over NZ to bugger off!! We had a great sail in the usual strong winds and covered the distance quickly giving Vashon Head at the western entrance to Port Essington a 5 mile berth due to the usual reefs and shoals. Then when we turned into Popham the wind died and so did our engine!! On top of that there was a tidal current over 1 knot taking us back out to sea!! So, "Kularoo" kindly took us in tow for the 4 miles into the anchorage. It's no easy matter towing a 15 ton yacht and Bill on "Kularoo" did a sterling job. We will be forever grateful. We were lucky to have been with them in convoy. The problem turned out to be air in the fuel which we can only surmise came about due to the turbulent seas washing fuel around in the fuel tanks. We had let the port tank that the fuel is drawn from get a bit low whereas the starboard tank remained fairly full - now they are equalised!! It was then a matter of "bleeding" the fuel system and hey presto away she went again. This was accomplished in smoother waters before we reached the anchorage. But not without stress and the effort of working on the engine in the heat. All the while Jean steered the yacht to follow "Kularoo". At least the anchorage was smooth and we could get a much needed sleep before tackling the notorious van Dieman Gulf.
Wednesday 3rd. July.
First we need to repeat the warning in the cruising guide "NT Coast Cruising Guide" by John Knight to emphasise the issues with wind and tide in the van Dieman Gulf. We reproduce here: "Dundas Strait is 15 miles across at its narrowest point and passes a vast amount of water with each tide back and forth between van Dieman Gulf and the Arafura Sea. The wind is also funneled through the gap. The result of this interaction is strong tidal streams and very rough water. Overfalls occur off the major headlands and in mid-channel, with tidal streams at over 3.5 knots. Close inshore the flow is even faster where constricted with shoals. At times the whole strait is churned into breaking seas by wind and tide. In late morning when the wind may rise to 20-25 knots, progress to windward against steep breaking seas can be almost impossible. Waves often reach 2 metres and being short bring the vessel to a shuddering halt before sweeping aboard. The most severe conditions will be met off Cape Don". This was the background to our thinking prior to starting this passage in order to get to Darwin. No wonder we were apprehensive!
It was anchors aweigh again at 0500 in light winds and no indication of the rough water for the next 50 miles ahead. We motorsailed just ahead of "Kullaroo" in the dark between a small island and the mainland all with large reefs around them. We had one reef in the main but began wondering whether we should shake it out when the wind started increasing. So we decided to leave things as they were and see how things developed. We didn't have to wait long and with some difficulty put the 2nd reef in just in time. We had timed our arrival off Cape Don to coincide with the flood into Darwin but as the tides were neaps rather than springs, the flow was not very strong - about 1.5 knots at times. Just as well because the wind steadily increased as did the seas and Jim was regretting his earlier decision not to deploy the staysail but with the wind more ahead of us contrary to forecasts and very strong the staysail was becoming necessary. Jim then made 3 attempts to hoist the sail but it took 3 tries before being successful in the conditions. With the motion of the boat so violent it was all one could do to hang on let alone actually do anything but in the end up it went. All the while the Fleming self steering steered the boat and handled the conditions with normal aplomb. Once the staysail was hoisted we reduced the genoa and then under the double reefed main she was much more manageable. We had the usual waves breaking against the boat and being showered with water in the cockpit. We were forced over to the Melville Is. south coast by the wind and had some shoals to avoid. A barge ahead of us going our way interrupted a radio conversation we were having with "Kullaroo" to say there was no problem going between a gap in the shoals and that the seas would be less. One wouldn't want to go over them because then the water becomes even more turbulent in the shallows. However, once abeam of Cape Keith on Melville Island the wind shifted more in our favour and we were able to lay Cape Hotham, our anchorage destination. Then the wind gradually reduced in strength which was a great contrast after the earlier hours. So much so that we spent the last 12 miles (2 hrs) motorsailing. Cape Hotham was the usual uninteresting low lying peninsula and we eventually anchored with "Kullaroo" (and 6 other yachts) in Mangrove Bay about 2 miles south and on the Darwin side of the cape. All the way through van Dieman Gulf the colour of the water reminded us of snow melt in the south island and the shore in the anchorage was simply very thickly wooded with mangroves - ideal crocodile habitat. Not conducive for going ashore and meeting crocodiles! "Happy Camper" meatballs and rice for dinner and we collapsed into bed exhausted.
Thursday 4th. July.
Not quite so early to up anchor this morning, but still underway at 0600 - 45 more miles to the end of this epic journey. Finished up motorsailing the whole way because the wind only briefly went above 12 knots! On "Kularoo's" recommendation we took a slightly shorter route through South Channel south of the Vernon Islands - a little tortuous between reefs but reasonably picturesque and a bit of a navigation challenge to keep us awake! Had a good favourable current for a time. Then a long boring stretch into Darwin Harbour passing over Middle Ground - a shoal but with enough water for us. Once we had phone contact we rang the number for Fisheries who handle the compulsory hull inspections for foreign marine organisms. A nuisance but we couldn't enter any marina without the necessary piece of paper. We managed to arrange an appointment for 1330 which was great and meant we wouldn't have to anchor and wait. So we headed lickety split for the Cullen Point Marina where there is an all-tide pontoon just outside the marina lock gates where one can get fuel and have the inspection done. We rafted alongside a Norwegian yacht ("Frida") to await the divers. In the meantime we made the acquaintance of the skipper of "Frida" (Frank) and had a series of interesting conversations. His English is excellent. Then the diving tender duly arrived and rafted outside of us. Although the inspection was free, it was no wonder to us why things are so expensive in Australia, and in particular in the NT. There were 6 guys on the boat and they had state of the art diving gear all at a phenomenal hourly rate, no doubt. And all they did was stand around while one of them swam under the boat, checked our engine water intake strainer (at our request), and squirt some biocide into all our salt water intakes except the one for the watermaker. And they've no hope of stopping any unwanted organisms because they don't treat boats that don't go into marinas! An example of loony bureaucracy gone mad. Then we were not allowed to use the engine or the head for 14 hours as they both use salt water. No big deal and we had a peaceful night tied up to "Frida".
Friday 5th. July.
We moved up to the fuel bowser just ahead of us and managed to squeeze in 168 litres (incl. 60 litres which we carry in containers on deck). This was less than we expected so that was a pleasant surprise. Then back alongside "Frida" to await departure for Tipperary Waters Marina nearer to high tide. We left Cullen Point at 1230 for the 5 miles to Tipperary - "Frida" following as she was going in there too.. This took us past the commercial wharves and then around into Frances Bay Creek. Quite shallow there and we had to be religious about keeping to the channel. We were in touch by VHF with Keith (the lockmaster at Tipperary) and he had us in sight. Then his handheld VHF ran out of battery and without continuing instructions we very nearly ran aground - it was only that Jean saw this frantically waving figure on the rock wall that saved us from this ignominious fate! However, all was well and we entered the entrance to the marina lock and tied up. Keith explained the procedure to us and closed the outer gates. Then a large noisy pump started and the water level started rising. Up we rose about 3 metres - a very strange feeling. A first for us and also for Tiare! Then Keith drove Jim to the office where he explained where our berth was and then back to the boat where Jean was looking after the mooring lines on the lock wall. Plenty of fenders!! The inner gates then opened and we moved into Tipperary and to our berth very close in. Excellent and sooooo glad to finally be here!!! All marinas in Darwin have lock gates as the tidal range can be as much as 7 metres and it's the only way marinas can operate.
We finally started "coming down" and were wandering around like zombies doing odd tidying up jobs. Had a few whiskies and started feeling a bit better then decided to go to a cafe not 30 metres away for dinner. Met Frank and his crew (Morten) and had dinner with them. More good conversation but wilting towards the end! Into bed and almost immediately in lala land!
Saturday 6th. July.
Beautiful weather - even somewhat cold in the early hours. So, early this morning we hoisted the main before any wind started and hosed all the salt off it and the rest of the boat. Then bacon and real (!) eggs for breakfast and while we were waiting for the sail to dry before furling it for the duration there was a hail from the dock and it was Neil who we had last seen on "Cigale" in northern New Caledonia in 2011. We knew he was working in Darwin and expected to make contact sometime but it was great to see him and reminisce. He has offered the use of his car from time to time which will be a boon. There is also a reasonable bus service from here into town (only 10 minutes) and a similar time up to Fannie Bay where we will go on Monday to pick up the Rally information from the Indonesia Rally people at the Darwin Sailing Club. We need to apply for our Indonesian Social Visas from the Consulate also fairly soon.
We've already got the broken genoa to the sail loft and collected our replacement watermaker pump. Haven't fitted it yet - maybe tomorrow? Feeling much better now and as this is being typed some more whisky which induces a most mellow feeling!!
We'll get out and about some more from tomorrow.
We feel that the passage from Cairns to here has been probably the most physically demanding thing either of us has ever been involved in. Not without its lighter moments (see www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com) but it's the incessant wind that's been psychologically and physically demanding. Sailing downwind in a monohull is better than sailing upwind but we ROLL. The best for us is a beam reach - but this rarely happened except across Carpentaria but then we had the tidal effects as well and had 4-5 metre seas. However, we are now finally here and very relieved to be relaxed in a good marina. Plenty of fellow yachties we can relate to and now looking forward to the next stage of our adventure - 450 miles to Kupang in Indonesian Timor.
More from us again very soon.
Lots of love
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
----------
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Wednesday 3 July 2013
Cape Hotham Lat. 12 degrees 05.9' S Long. 131 degrees 15.6' E
Just a very quick note because today we left Popham Bay just before Cape Don at 0500 and then braved the tides of the Van Dieman Gulf. We didn't arrive until 1730 so a very long day and through some of the roughest seas we have experienced on the Australian coast. Jim made 3 attempts to raise the staysail all the time harnessed to the boat because the motion was so violent that the first two attempts were unsuccessful with rivers of solid water coursing over the yacht. Still, it was a rapid sail with the tide assisting - it was a real sleighride and no mistake. More once we reach Darwin tomorrow once the author has had some much needed sleep. Darwin is only 50 miles away now and we leave with "Kularoo" at 0600 when it's anchors aweigh once more. THE END IS IN SIGHT!!
Much love from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Much love from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
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