Posts
We had a whale of a sail today. Left Portland Roads at 0700 as we had only (!) 48 miles to go. Bit of a worry with the watermaker again as the booster pump was making a loud noise when we started it but hopefully it won't be too much of an issue. Still, to be safe we shut it down and will work on it tomorrow as we are staying here for one day.
The wind angles were much kinder to us than yesterday and for the first time we deployed the smaller Genoa which we had installed at Morris. That and a double reefed main proved ideal as at times the wind exceeded 30 knots. The old girl (the boat!) really picked up her skirts and flew - over 8 knots at times. She revelled in it and must have thought she was back in Cook Strait all over again. There was one point where the ship channel passes between 2 reefs and the gap is only .9 of a mile between Fisher Island to port and Inset Reef to starboard. Might sound a lot but when we approached from the south we had already passed one southbound ship and prayed that we wouldn't meet another in the gap because then it would be very small indeed. Fortunately we didn't but as we were approaching and trying to keep the port beacon on the port side in large broaching seas and winds gusting over 30 knots we were then overtaken by a large rain squall which pushed the windspeed even higher and conveniently totally blotted out all visibility of both beacons. Just as well we had the trusty chartplotter which at times like that is a godsend. There really is no room for error, especially at the speeds we were attaining. We had the alarm on the AIS which gives warning of any large ships approaching but fortunately we had the channel to ourselves.
Relieved to be through and then onwards at record speeds. After Moody Reef to starboard the course became NE to clear the Home Islands off Cape Grenville. This is a sizeable group of islands off the cape and there is an inshore passage but in the conditions and with no prior experience we gave that a miss and went around the outside. We furled the Genoa and then gybed the main in over 25 knots and hurtled onwards in a generally westerly direction towards Margaret Bay. As we approached we heard "Backchat" and "Settlement" talking to each other so we called them up. They were about to move further west to Shelburne Bay which gives a somewhat closer point of departure for points north so we carried on and eventually anchored there next to them. Some anxiety about shallow water off a point just before entering the bay and indeed the anchorage is quite shallow, there being only 6 feet under our keel as we speak. Still, it's secure with a mud bottom and roll free which is something after the day we have had. But very satisfying and we know that Tiare enjoyed it.
All this coast is very low, flat and featureless except for spectacular white sand blows and dunes. Where we are anchored it wouldn't feature in any travel brochures. The shore looks most unattractive with mangroves and a rocky fringe. And no doubt crocodiles. Apparently "Settlement" (a catamaran) had a croc underneath the boat between the 2 hulls last night.
We are well up the Cape York Peninsula by now with only 90 miles to go to the top. The challenge from here is to find an acceptable anchorage on the way, otherwise it means an overnight sail in these restricted waters and boisterous conditions. If anything the windspeed increases at night and in the dark navigating between reefs (although well lit and marked) is a bit daunting.
We were told about the Boydong Cays (28 miles north of here) by an ex trawler skipper at the Cairns Chart Agency and that would be an ideal stop but apparently the anchorage is a bit deep. However "Settlement" is leaving ahead of us and will check it out and email us. Otherwise there's the Escape River but it has a shallow bar entrance (2.7 metres at LWS) and can be dangerous in onshore winds like these. And many scaly things with long tails and big teeth. So, it's a bit like Hobson's Choice but no doubt we'll find an acceptable option.
And now at 2030 it's time for bed.
Lotsaluv from us
Jim and Jean (Gina)
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Friday 31 May 2013
Thursday 30 May 2013
Portland Roads Lat 12 degrees 35.6' S Log 143 degrees 24.6' E (30/05/13)
It howled all night as usual, but we were snug in the anchorage at Morris. Had an unusual occurrence when a large brown seabird with a wingspan of at least a metre and a wicked looking beak landed on the foredeck. He (or she) was persistent because we chased him/her away a couple of times and he/she always came back finally settling on the perspex forehatch above our bed. We wondered whether we should close both small round portholes immediately aft of where he/she had settled but foolishly left them open. Of course later in the night the inevitable happened and he/she shat all over the hatch and deck. Unfortunately as the wind was blowing at its usual 25 knots or so, some of the excrement was blown horizontally at least 3 feet and came through one of the said portholes!! It splattered a bulkhead, landed on our bedsheet and also Jim's leg. That would have to be one of the most bizarre yachting experiences to date. That was around 1 am and the next half hour was spent by Jean cleaning and wiping with the trusty Sphagnum Moss. Got it all cleaned up inside but when we came to pull the anchor up at 6 it was a matter of some extensive deck scrubbing. He/she in the meantime had tried to land on the mainsail furled on the boom but was again shooed off so we didn't see him/her again. Probably thought what a bunch of unfriendly yachties. But he/she did have at least 7 hours much needed sleep courtesy of us!!
We weighed anchor at 6 this morning in the usual gale and hoisted a double reefed main. Thought we'd motorsail for the usual 2 hours or so and then sail the rest of the way. How wrong can you be. The wind lessened and stayed directly astern no matter what course we were on dodging reefs and islands. It rained off and on as well which would have gone down the companionway without our cover that Noel recommended we install. Very frustrating and we finished up motorsailing all the way (60 miles). At times there was a big following choppy sea which caused us to roll our scuppers under. All in all a less than ideal passage up the ship channel. Passed 2 southbound ships throwing spray as they punched into a windy sea. We passed Blanchard and Ellis Reefs to starboard, Parry Rock to port, Waterwitch Reef, Osborne Reef, Sherrard Is., Chapman Is., Cape Direction, and finally Restoration Is. and Rock to port before making the turn to the approach into Portland Roads on the northern side of Cape Weymouth. We were not looking forward to this stop as we had been warned about the rolling and indeed the cruising guides also warned of this. But 60 miles in one day is quite enough so in we went.
Well, it turns out to be a delightful anchorage with a few houses ashore and even a road to the local airfield. The rolling is non existent although there is a little jobble at anchor but much more sheltered than Morris which is touted as being the best anchorage on this part of the coast. It is a picturesque little bay although we can't get in close due to the usual fringing coral reef off the beach. But all very pretty with coconut palms and dinghies drawn up on the beach. If we weren't on such of a mission, it would be good to stay here for a day or two and go ashore but alas we must keep moving. Darwin (still 1000 miles away) beckons. But here we are only 190 miles from Cape York so our first milestone is within reach.
Tomorrow we go to Cape Grenville (Margaret Bay) which is a shorter distance - only 48 miles!
Cheers and love from us - we will sleep tonight.
Jim and Jean
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We weighed anchor at 6 this morning in the usual gale and hoisted a double reefed main. Thought we'd motorsail for the usual 2 hours or so and then sail the rest of the way. How wrong can you be. The wind lessened and stayed directly astern no matter what course we were on dodging reefs and islands. It rained off and on as well which would have gone down the companionway without our cover that Noel recommended we install. Very frustrating and we finished up motorsailing all the way (60 miles). At times there was a big following choppy sea which caused us to roll our scuppers under. All in all a less than ideal passage up the ship channel. Passed 2 southbound ships throwing spray as they punched into a windy sea. We passed Blanchard and Ellis Reefs to starboard, Parry Rock to port, Waterwitch Reef, Osborne Reef, Sherrard Is., Chapman Is., Cape Direction, and finally Restoration Is. and Rock to port before making the turn to the approach into Portland Roads on the northern side of Cape Weymouth. We were not looking forward to this stop as we had been warned about the rolling and indeed the cruising guides also warned of this. But 60 miles in one day is quite enough so in we went.
Well, it turns out to be a delightful anchorage with a few houses ashore and even a road to the local airfield. The rolling is non existent although there is a little jobble at anchor but much more sheltered than Morris which is touted as being the best anchorage on this part of the coast. It is a picturesque little bay although we can't get in close due to the usual fringing coral reef off the beach. But all very pretty with coconut palms and dinghies drawn up on the beach. If we weren't on such of a mission, it would be good to stay here for a day or two and go ashore but alas we must keep moving. Darwin (still 1000 miles away) beckons. But here we are only 190 miles from Cape York so our first milestone is within reach.
Tomorrow we go to Cape Grenville (Margaret Bay) which is a shorter distance - only 48 miles!
Cheers and love from us - we will sleep tonight.
Jim and Jean
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Tuesday 28 May 2013
Tiare Taporo III - update May 29th.
We are still at Morris Island 60 miles south of Portland Roads. There is a strong wind warning still current and the wind forecast is marginally worse than yesterday with winds up to 35 knots and the reminder that they could reach 40% higher which is 49!! This warning extends for the whole length of the Queensland coast.
We were going to leave this morning about now (0500) but in view of the forecast just heard have decided to delay for at least 2 days. This anchorage, although a little jobbly at high tide, is one of the best on this stretch of the coast so it seems to us to be prudent to stay until the wind intensity dies down which, as the high moves east, it will eventually do. Fortunately there is a deepening low down south following the high which will have the effect of dampening the wind up here.
We are concerned that we are steadily getting shorter of time for our Darwin arrival but there's nothing we can do about the weather. We have been bedevilled by the weather ever since we first planned to leave Cairns at the end of April. There was a late cyclone which eventually fizzled but caused us to stay put and then that was followed by a week of similar weather as we are experiencing now. So, after another week's delay we eventually left on May 13th. (not a Friday!) and have generally had strong wind ever since. 3 days at Lizard Is. in a screaming gale and now this. Sailing this coast is an experience we never want to repeat and we will be heartily glad to be shot of it. Strong winds, poor anchorages generally and big distances between anchorages in very confined waters make decision making extremely difficult. If we had winds 15 to even 25 knots it would be different but we don't have that at the moment. However, once we have a reasonable forecast we will leave and proceed with all the speed we can muster for the Cape. It may be necessary to curtail our Northern Territory plans but our primary goal is the rally to Indonesia and Malaysia, so we will be there. Hopefully in time to get our genoa repaired which lost its clew 2 days ago. We have a spare - although smaller.
We'll keep you informed.
Jim and Gina
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Morris Is.
Queensland
Lat. 13 degrees 29.4' S Long. 143 degrees 43.4' E
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We were going to leave this morning about now (0500) but in view of the forecast just heard have decided to delay for at least 2 days. This anchorage, although a little jobbly at high tide, is one of the best on this stretch of the coast so it seems to us to be prudent to stay until the wind intensity dies down which, as the high moves east, it will eventually do. Fortunately there is a deepening low down south following the high which will have the effect of dampening the wind up here.
We are concerned that we are steadily getting shorter of time for our Darwin arrival but there's nothing we can do about the weather. We have been bedevilled by the weather ever since we first planned to leave Cairns at the end of April. There was a late cyclone which eventually fizzled but caused us to stay put and then that was followed by a week of similar weather as we are experiencing now. So, after another week's delay we eventually left on May 13th. (not a Friday!) and have generally had strong wind ever since. 3 days at Lizard Is. in a screaming gale and now this. Sailing this coast is an experience we never want to repeat and we will be heartily glad to be shot of it. Strong winds, poor anchorages generally and big distances between anchorages in very confined waters make decision making extremely difficult. If we had winds 15 to even 25 knots it would be different but we don't have that at the moment. However, once we have a reasonable forecast we will leave and proceed with all the speed we can muster for the Cape. It may be necessary to curtail our Northern Territory plans but our primary goal is the rally to Indonesia and Malaysia, so we will be there. Hopefully in time to get our genoa repaired which lost its clew 2 days ago. We have a spare - although smaller.
We'll keep you informed.
Jim and Gina
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Morris Is.
Queensland
Lat. 13 degrees 29.4' S Long. 143 degrees 43.4' E
www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Morris Island - a traveller's impression
We have been here for 26 hours. It's now 1845 on the 28th. Today we managed to do all our jobs. The main one was getting the spare genoa on the forestay which is easier said than done in gale force winds. The weather pattern seems to be that the winds are a little less mid morning and so it proved again. We managed to get it hoisted and rolled up in 16 knots instead of 22+! Then it was a struggle to get the damaged sail flaked (folded)on the confined area of the foredeck of a 38' yacht. But we managed it and even got it into a bag so that it didn't take up so much room down below. We've also put a double reef in the main in preparation for tomorrow when we plan to leave at 0400. These early starts are very wearing but necessary as we have just over 60 miles to travel tomorrow - again! At least it's all downhill (downwind). The next anchorage will be Portland Roads (on the mainland) with the promise of a beam swell which should make the old girl roll quite nicely. Just what you need at the end of a long 12 hour day.
It's a pity that our all too short stay here should have been blighted by our operational problems and the weather. Last night for example we maintained an anchor watch because we were so anxious about the high winds, although both cruising guides and other people who have been here all wax lyrical about the security of the anchorage. But we needn't have worried because we never moved in spite of the winds howling across the unrestricted reef at upwards of 25 knots all night. There were 4 other yachts anchored here last night - all destined for the Sail Indonesia rally. They all left this morning leaving us feeling quite lonely but we will catch up again soon.
We are watching our diesel consumption but we have been doing well. So far in 16 days we have used an estimated 84 litres out of our total capacity (including what we carry on deck) of around 440 litres. So, not so bad and we will replenish that in Seisia in a week or so. Our total engine hours since leaving Cairns have been 42 hours - 2.6 hrs/day. Considering that we need to run the engine to make water and power we think we're doing well.
We would have liked to get ashore and explore but time and weather has been against us. And there are high winds forecast for at least the next 5-6 days. Time is the enemy as always. Morris is a sand cay with a very extensive reef system although a major part of the reef submerges at high tide - particularly with spring tides as at present. When that happens there's an annoying jobble but it's short lived. The island is known for its lone coconut palm tree which is even referred to on the charts. However, we noticed that there are some juveniles now coming up fast. There is apparently a diver's grave on the island - no-one seems to know the details but it could be that of a Japanese pearl diver. There is absolutely nothing else on the island except tangled scrub. No doubt the snorkelling around here is great but again no time. It takes us about half an hour to get our dinghy in the water and getting the outboard set up and the same at the other end but with our state of tiredness after yesterday and our jobs necessitated by the genoa change we gave it a miss. And in any case apparently in 2001 a large crocodile was observed here so there could be others by now. Not good for swimming!
Portland Roads has the promise of internet so we'll wait until then before sending this and some more latest news. We're looking forward to a slightly gentler sail tomorrow as all the forecasts are predicting about 5% less in windspeed. Let's hope they're right - we'll let you know.
Lotsaluv from us........
xoxoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
It's a pity that our all too short stay here should have been blighted by our operational problems and the weather. Last night for example we maintained an anchor watch because we were so anxious about the high winds, although both cruising guides and other people who have been here all wax lyrical about the security of the anchorage. But we needn't have worried because we never moved in spite of the winds howling across the unrestricted reef at upwards of 25 knots all night. There were 4 other yachts anchored here last night - all destined for the Sail Indonesia rally. They all left this morning leaving us feeling quite lonely but we will catch up again soon.
We are watching our diesel consumption but we have been doing well. So far in 16 days we have used an estimated 84 litres out of our total capacity (including what we carry on deck) of around 440 litres. So, not so bad and we will replenish that in Seisia in a week or so. Our total engine hours since leaving Cairns have been 42 hours - 2.6 hrs/day. Considering that we need to run the engine to make water and power we think we're doing well.
We would have liked to get ashore and explore but time and weather has been against us. And there are high winds forecast for at least the next 5-6 days. Time is the enemy as always. Morris is a sand cay with a very extensive reef system although a major part of the reef submerges at high tide - particularly with spring tides as at present. When that happens there's an annoying jobble but it's short lived. The island is known for its lone coconut palm tree which is even referred to on the charts. However, we noticed that there are some juveniles now coming up fast. There is apparently a diver's grave on the island - no-one seems to know the details but it could be that of a Japanese pearl diver. There is absolutely nothing else on the island except tangled scrub. No doubt the snorkelling around here is great but again no time. It takes us about half an hour to get our dinghy in the water and getting the outboard set up and the same at the other end but with our state of tiredness after yesterday and our jobs necessitated by the genoa change we gave it a miss. And in any case apparently in 2001 a large crocodile was observed here so there could be others by now. Not good for swimming!
Portland Roads has the promise of internet so we'll wait until then before sending this and some more latest news. We're looking forward to a slightly gentler sail tomorrow as all the forecasts are predicting about 5% less in windspeed. Let's hope they're right - we'll let you know.
Lotsaluv from us........
xoxoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday 27 May 2013
Morris Island Lat 13 degrees 29.395' S Long 143 degrees 43.368' E
Well we had a sail and a half today. We left Stokes Bay (Flinders) at 0400 and motorsailed in light SW for the 1st 2 hours with a lovely full moon. SW was not forecast!! However, the wind direction suited us. Our initial course was almost due west across the top of Princess Charlotte Bay which is so large that the inner coastline is not visible from where we were. "Scorpio", "Marauder" and "Even Bet" had left the day before and headed south into the bay to go up the Normanby River to catch crabs and Barramundi! The river is full of crocodiles too and has a very shallow bar entrance so not for our boat. Anyway, we were on a mission.
The wind was fickle and never blew above 20 knots so we thought we might have a nice gentle ride. Alas, not to be. The next minute the clew ring on our genoa parted company from the sail. This is where the sheets are attached and suddenly the sail was flogging out of control. So, with great difficulty (because it is a big sail) we lowered it down the forestay, rolled it up and got it down below. All the while our trusty wind vane self steering was looking after the boat with a reefed main. Fortunately we have a spare but smaller genoa which we will bend on to the forestay in the morning. In the meantime we just carried on with main and staysail. The catamaran "Pedago" passed us after we had had our problem and looked great as she was probably doing 10 knots at the time - against our 7! There is no doubt that cats are the ideal boats for this coast with its constant downwind sailing. Then the wind piped up to over 30 knots - 36 in fact - and we were hooning along, even under our reduced sail. There were a couple of threading the eye of the needle situations where we had to pass between islands and reefs with about a mile in between and in 35 knots of wind the old girl takes a bit of handling. Concentration is necessary - watching the chartplotter to see where we are and adjusting the self steering to make sure that we miss all the obstacles. There are a number of places where the navigable channel is only 5 miles off a very shallow and reefbound coast so no room for error and all the while watching for north and southbound ships which share the waterway as well. One doesn't argue with them; one just keeps out of their way, although at times and in some circumstances that is easier said than done.
Once in the lee of Morris's reef we had a great sail at well over 7 knots in smooth water. Couldn't slow the old girl down!! Then we rounded up into the wind to lower the main and staysail and proceeded to the anchorage. We anchored in 20 feet of water in 25 knots of wind but put out 50 metres of chain plus the trusty Rocna, so we are secure for the night. It would be nice if the wind let up somewhat though; at the moment it's 1800 and still blowing over 20 knots. Always makes one nervous that we won't drag in the night! Still, we haven't so far and we've anchored in some dubious places both here and New Caledonia.
Well, that's it for us for now. We might get ashore tomorrow; the island is a lovely but windswept sand cay with an extensive reef system which protects the anchorage. A little disappointing from all the glowing reports we've had but no doubt that's just the conditions we have struck. We can just discern the mainland of the Cape York Peninsula in the distance behind us. None of this alters the feeling that we will be so pleased once we have rounded the northern tip of Australia, Cape York. Almost 2000 miles from Bundaberg; it will be a milestone.
Lots of love from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxox
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
The wind was fickle and never blew above 20 knots so we thought we might have a nice gentle ride. Alas, not to be. The next minute the clew ring on our genoa parted company from the sail. This is where the sheets are attached and suddenly the sail was flogging out of control. So, with great difficulty (because it is a big sail) we lowered it down the forestay, rolled it up and got it down below. All the while our trusty wind vane self steering was looking after the boat with a reefed main. Fortunately we have a spare but smaller genoa which we will bend on to the forestay in the morning. In the meantime we just carried on with main and staysail. The catamaran "Pedago" passed us after we had had our problem and looked great as she was probably doing 10 knots at the time - against our 7! There is no doubt that cats are the ideal boats for this coast with its constant downwind sailing. Then the wind piped up to over 30 knots - 36 in fact - and we were hooning along, even under our reduced sail. There were a couple of threading the eye of the needle situations where we had to pass between islands and reefs with about a mile in between and in 35 knots of wind the old girl takes a bit of handling. Concentration is necessary - watching the chartplotter to see where we are and adjusting the self steering to make sure that we miss all the obstacles. There are a number of places where the navigable channel is only 5 miles off a very shallow and reefbound coast so no room for error and all the while watching for north and southbound ships which share the waterway as well. One doesn't argue with them; one just keeps out of their way, although at times and in some circumstances that is easier said than done.
Once in the lee of Morris's reef we had a great sail at well over 7 knots in smooth water. Couldn't slow the old girl down!! Then we rounded up into the wind to lower the main and staysail and proceeded to the anchorage. We anchored in 20 feet of water in 25 knots of wind but put out 50 metres of chain plus the trusty Rocna, so we are secure for the night. It would be nice if the wind let up somewhat though; at the moment it's 1800 and still blowing over 20 knots. Always makes one nervous that we won't drag in the night! Still, we haven't so far and we've anchored in some dubious places both here and New Caledonia.
Well, that's it for us for now. We might get ashore tomorrow; the island is a lovely but windswept sand cay with an extensive reef system which protects the anchorage. A little disappointing from all the glowing reports we've had but no doubt that's just the conditions we have struck. We can just discern the mainland of the Cape York Peninsula in the distance behind us. None of this alters the feeling that we will be so pleased once we have rounded the northern tip of Australia, Cape York. Almost 2000 miles from Bundaberg; it will be a milestone.
Lots of love from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxox
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Saturday 25 May 2013
Change of strategic plan
Another change due to this pesky weather. We were going to leave at 0400 today for Morris but the weather hasn't abated and so we have re-examined our whole strategy. One thing for sure is that going back (to Cairns) is not an option - if you think going with these winds is less than ideal, try going against them!!
Last night neither of us got much sleep listening to the wind howling and the bullets hitting us side on as the tide was holding us for a while at right angles to the wind. Hardly restful getting up every so often to check our GPS position to make sure we hadn't dragged. We haven't dragged anywhere since we got the Rocna so fingers crossed that that continues.
We have decided that maybe tomorrow or the next day (Tuesday) we will be able to get to Morris Is. as there are indications that the winds might lessen by then. The high that's causing all this is slow moving over the Great Australian Bight and is 1031 Hpa which is quite intense. NZ probably needs some sunshine by then so let's hope it moves over there real soon!!
Morris Is. is 59 nautical miles from here so we can make that in a day if we leave early. Then our plan is to sail overnight and get up to Mt. Adolphous Is. in one hop. This is a further 189 miles and is just north of Cape York. Apart from the weather, the other difficulty with this coast is that there are only a few indifferent anchorages north of here with the exceptions of Morris and Margaret Bay. This latter is 98 miles north of Morris and then another 91 to Mt. Adolphous. So, if we decided we didn't want to do the one hop to Mt. Adolphous we could stop there but 90 odd miles is still outside our ability to achieve in daylight. If this coast had reasonable anchorages every 20 or 30 miles it would take a lot of pressure off but we just have to make do with what we have and plan accordingly. Another thing for sure, we will be heartily glad to have made it to the top, away from this coast and around Cape York into Seisia. We will still have 800 miles to go but across the Gulf of Carpentaria and from the Wessel Islands to Port Essington comprises over 60% of that and those passages will be non stop which will eat up the miles. At least there there isn't any Barrier Reef to worry about, whereas here it does produce navigational challenges. Having said that the Barrier Reef provides protection from oceanic seas but the inner reef is only 10 miles from the coast in parts and there is a major 2 way shipping channel following this inner reef dogleg track. So, a good lookout is essential (behind as well) because large ships follow this channel and there isn't much room. At least we have our trusty AIS receiver which gives advance warning of other vessels. It is mandatory for any vessels over 300 tons to carry an AIS transmitter which gives their name, course and speed.
Jiveen - thank you for your message of support and news of you, Jenny and Theo. Perry and Tracie's baby is due at the beginning of October so that will be a milestone as well. By then with any luck we will be in the South China Sea! We'd love to be part of the tree planting (!) but sending the money will be a problem until we get to Darwin.
Cheers and lots of love from us............
Jim and Jean xoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Last night neither of us got much sleep listening to the wind howling and the bullets hitting us side on as the tide was holding us for a while at right angles to the wind. Hardly restful getting up every so often to check our GPS position to make sure we hadn't dragged. We haven't dragged anywhere since we got the Rocna so fingers crossed that that continues.
We have decided that maybe tomorrow or the next day (Tuesday) we will be able to get to Morris Is. as there are indications that the winds might lessen by then. The high that's causing all this is slow moving over the Great Australian Bight and is 1031 Hpa which is quite intense. NZ probably needs some sunshine by then so let's hope it moves over there real soon!!
Morris Is. is 59 nautical miles from here so we can make that in a day if we leave early. Then our plan is to sail overnight and get up to Mt. Adolphous Is. in one hop. This is a further 189 miles and is just north of Cape York. Apart from the weather, the other difficulty with this coast is that there are only a few indifferent anchorages north of here with the exceptions of Morris and Margaret Bay. This latter is 98 miles north of Morris and then another 91 to Mt. Adolphous. So, if we decided we didn't want to do the one hop to Mt. Adolphous we could stop there but 90 odd miles is still outside our ability to achieve in daylight. If this coast had reasonable anchorages every 20 or 30 miles it would take a lot of pressure off but we just have to make do with what we have and plan accordingly. Another thing for sure, we will be heartily glad to have made it to the top, away from this coast and around Cape York into Seisia. We will still have 800 miles to go but across the Gulf of Carpentaria and from the Wessel Islands to Port Essington comprises over 60% of that and those passages will be non stop which will eat up the miles. At least there there isn't any Barrier Reef to worry about, whereas here it does produce navigational challenges. Having said that the Barrier Reef provides protection from oceanic seas but the inner reef is only 10 miles from the coast in parts and there is a major 2 way shipping channel following this inner reef dogleg track. So, a good lookout is essential (behind as well) because large ships follow this channel and there isn't much room. At least we have our trusty AIS receiver which gives advance warning of other vessels. It is mandatory for any vessels over 300 tons to carry an AIS transmitter which gives their name, course and speed.
Jiveen - thank you for your message of support and news of you, Jenny and Theo. Perry and Tracie's baby is due at the beginning of October so that will be a milestone as well. By then with any luck we will be in the South China Sea! We'd love to be part of the tree planting (!) but sending the money will be a problem until we get to Darwin.
Cheers and lots of love from us............
Jim and Jean xoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Friday 24 May 2013
Weather frustrations
Hi to everyone,
Just to let you know we are in Stokes Bay on Stanley Is. in the Flinders Group. We are feeling the usual frustrations with this pesky weather. There is a strong wind warning out at the moment with S Easterlies of 25-30 knots forecast for the next week. However, we can't afford to wait here - not only for getting to Darwin on time by the end of June, but also because eventually we would run out of diesel (necessary for power and water) and LPG. We are hoping we can replenish both when we get to Seisia around Cape York. So, we have decided to leave here around 0400 tomorrow for Morris Is. - 65 miles distant. We need to leave early in order to get there in daylight. Morris is a very good anchorage on the inner reef and the approach is easy with apparently no coral heads. We have been told we MUST go there as it is very pretty and very secure even in gale force conditions. At least going up inside the reef as we are doing there is no sea to speak of as it is protected by the outer and inner reefs - just a fairly large wind driven chop at times which can make life unpleasant when sailing downwind.
Hoping all is well with everyone. Feel free to email us anytime. We'll always be happy to hear from you. Just remember not to hit the reply button. Always send a "fresh" email, otherwise we receive our original email back again. And, if sending to multiple addresses, please make them BCC, otherwise all the addresses come through on top of the email and clog up our system as everything is sent and received through a very slow radio link. And for all the fascinating details of our passages you can always read the blogsite - tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
Lots of love from us...........
Jim and Jean (Gina)
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Flinders Islands
North Queensland.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Just to let you know we are in Stokes Bay on Stanley Is. in the Flinders Group. We are feeling the usual frustrations with this pesky weather. There is a strong wind warning out at the moment with S Easterlies of 25-30 knots forecast for the next week. However, we can't afford to wait here - not only for getting to Darwin on time by the end of June, but also because eventually we would run out of diesel (necessary for power and water) and LPG. We are hoping we can replenish both when we get to Seisia around Cape York. So, we have decided to leave here around 0400 tomorrow for Morris Is. - 65 miles distant. We need to leave early in order to get there in daylight. Morris is a very good anchorage on the inner reef and the approach is easy with apparently no coral heads. We have been told we MUST go there as it is very pretty and very secure even in gale force conditions. At least going up inside the reef as we are doing there is no sea to speak of as it is protected by the outer and inner reefs - just a fairly large wind driven chop at times which can make life unpleasant when sailing downwind.
Hoping all is well with everyone. Feel free to email us anytime. We'll always be happy to hear from you. Just remember not to hit the reply button. Always send a "fresh" email, otherwise we receive our original email back again. And, if sending to multiple addresses, please make them BCC, otherwise all the addresses come through on top of the email and clog up our system as everything is sent and received through a very slow radio link. And for all the fascinating details of our passages you can always read the blogsite - tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
Lots of love from us...........
Jim and Jean (Gina)
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
Flinders Islands
North Queensland.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Bluewater contingent
Hi Rick/Kellie,
Thought you might be interested to know that there are at least seven boats ex Bluewater here at Stokes Bay, Stanley Is., in the Flinders Group. We have "Even Bet" with Ian and Janelle, "Backchat" with Irvin and Jenny, us, "Scorpio" with Kevin and Melody, "Kickin' Bak" with Garry and Lynn, "Pedoja" with Don and Tania, "Marauder" with Trevor and ?. That's 7 and there's another catamaran called "Makani Kai" which may also have been at Bluewater. If that's the case, then there are 8!
We've been experiencing the usual strong winds and are right now debating when to leave here to go further north. Probably tomorrow as otherwise we will run out of time so we'll just have to grin and bear it. At least this anchorage is reasonably comfortable and the next one (Morris Is.) is good too. It's 65 miles though so we will have a 4 in the morning departure to get there in daylight. To read all our gory details don't forget our website www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
Hope all is well at Bluewater.....
Cheers from us,
Jim and Jean (Gina)
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Thought you might be interested to know that there are at least seven boats ex Bluewater here at Stokes Bay, Stanley Is., in the Flinders Group. We have "Even Bet" with Ian and Janelle, "Backchat" with Irvin and Jenny, us, "Scorpio" with Kevin and Melody, "Kickin' Bak" with Garry and Lynn, "Pedoja" with Don and Tania, "Marauder" with Trevor and ?. That's 7 and there's another catamaran called "Makani Kai" which may also have been at Bluewater. If that's the case, then there are 8!
We've been experiencing the usual strong winds and are right now debating when to leave here to go further north. Probably tomorrow as otherwise we will run out of time so we'll just have to grin and bear it. At least this anchorage is reasonably comfortable and the next one (Morris Is.) is good too. It's 65 miles though so we will have a 4 in the morning departure to get there in daylight. To read all our gory details don't forget our website www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
Hope all is well at Bluewater.....
Cheers from us,
Jim and Jean (Gina)
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Thursday 23 May 2013
Weather change
Last night in the face of increasing winds forecast we decided not to go north, but to stay in the Flinders for 2-3 days. There is another big fat high over the Tasman approaching NZ and it's doing the same as always - vastly increasing the wind speeds in this neck of the woods as the high spins anti-clockwise and throws SE to E winds off its top edge.
When we went to bed last night there was no wind at all and the sea was flat calm. Different story from about 0200 when the wind started picking up from the SW (unusual) and blowing a nasty little chop into the bay causing us to pitch, but not as bad as at Digby!! That place is etched on Jim's brain. Dennis will no doubt remember.
We are still anchored here in Stokes Bay, Stanley Is., Flinders Group alongside "Scorpio" (among others). That is ironic because it was Kevin on "Scorpio" who was at Curlew when we were at Digby and who passed the remark over the radio that "it's always been a mongrel"!!!
We are hoping the wind goes to the SE because then this anchorage will quieten down and will become the calm haven it's supposed to be.
Just to illustrate the indecision which plagues us on this coast, "Forty Two" left this morning after saying last night that they wouldn't be going and we are still here! Our options would have been to sail direct for Morris Is. (65 NM) or Hedge Reef (28 NM). Morris is by far the best anchorage but it would have meant we would arrive after dark and that's not good approaching a coral reef anchorage in high winds. Hedge might have been doable but is not such a good anchorage and gets a swell across the top of the reef at high tide. So, it might not be any better than this and the hope is that this one quietens down.
So, there we are - the joys of the north Queensland coast!
Love from us
Jim and Jean
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
When we went to bed last night there was no wind at all and the sea was flat calm. Different story from about 0200 when the wind started picking up from the SW (unusual) and blowing a nasty little chop into the bay causing us to pitch, but not as bad as at Digby!! That place is etched on Jim's brain. Dennis will no doubt remember.
We are still anchored here in Stokes Bay, Stanley Is., Flinders Group alongside "Scorpio" (among others). That is ironic because it was Kevin on "Scorpio" who was at Curlew when we were at Digby and who passed the remark over the radio that "it's always been a mongrel"!!!
We are hoping the wind goes to the SE because then this anchorage will quieten down and will become the calm haven it's supposed to be.
Just to illustrate the indecision which plagues us on this coast, "Forty Two" left this morning after saying last night that they wouldn't be going and we are still here! Our options would have been to sail direct for Morris Is. (65 NM) or Hedge Reef (28 NM). Morris is by far the best anchorage but it would have meant we would arrive after dark and that's not good approaching a coral reef anchorage in high winds. Hedge might have been doable but is not such a good anchorage and gets a swell across the top of the reef at high tide. So, it might not be any better than this and the hope is that this one quietens down.
So, there we are - the joys of the north Queensland coast!
Love from us
Jim and Jean
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Flinders Islands Lat 14 degrees 09.3' S Long 144 degrees 13.5' E
We arrived here yesterday afternoon after an excellent sail up the coast from Howick Is. We left at 0700 and did the usual motorsailing for 2 hours to make the necessary water and power. A few reefs and islands to skirt around at first and then more or less straight up the main shipping channel. We managed a broad reach on starboard tack for a while and then had to alter course in a more north westerly direction to follow the changing coast which meant that we poled the genoa out and goosewinged the main on the other side. That worked well and we averaged 5-6 knots all the way to Cape Melville. Then inside the Pippon Islets and at the same time avoiding a couple of clumps of rocks off the cape. We thought then that having come round to a westerly heading for the Flinders Group, we would have a relaxing eased sheets run but then the wind started dying and as we wanted to be into the anchorage before dark, we resorted to the iron sail once more.
"2XS" and "Settlement" and a German boat ("Forty Two") were already there and we anchored off a small sandbank in the Owen Channel between Flinders Is. and Stanley Island. A much more attractive anchorage than Howick but NO SWIMMING due to crocs.
Today we heard Kev and Melody on "Scorpio" on the radio and, as the wind was almost non existent, we motored around the bottom of Stanley Is. to Stokes Bay where they were anchored. A boisterous reunion then ensued and Carsten from "Forty Two" also came over to talk about upcoming weather. We were going on tomorrow but now not so sure. As we discussed with Carsten this is a difficult coast to traverse. The distances are such that we can't afford to use the fuel to motor too far if the wind dies because the next fuel stop is not until Seisia around Cape York and if the wind comes up as is forecast for the next few days (25-30 knots) then we have to make the next anchorage before dark and it might not be too pleasant with incessant rolling causing lack of sleep. Therefore the daily decision making becomes quite onerous and once committed there is no going back. It causes a lot of stress which quickly fades if one gets it right with weather etc but if not then it becomes a problem. Even the weather forecasts are often at variance with each other!! On an ocean passage one just gets into a routine and gets on with it but here with big daily distances and the need to find a sheltered anchorage before dark it can be a little fraught.
It is not a cakewalk sailing this coast! We will certainly be glad when around the top. After that there are 2 longish passages where we'll eat up the miles. Apart from Gove, the Wessel Islands and Port Essington where we plan to spend a few days we'll be hightailing it to Darwin.
Message for Heather: hi Heather - we did get your email, thank you. No problem with its length which was just about right. Glad to hear all is continuing to go well for you.
Cheers and love from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
"2XS" and "Settlement" and a German boat ("Forty Two") were already there and we anchored off a small sandbank in the Owen Channel between Flinders Is. and Stanley Island. A much more attractive anchorage than Howick but NO SWIMMING due to crocs.
Today we heard Kev and Melody on "Scorpio" on the radio and, as the wind was almost non existent, we motored around the bottom of Stanley Is. to Stokes Bay where they were anchored. A boisterous reunion then ensued and Carsten from "Forty Two" also came over to talk about upcoming weather. We were going on tomorrow but now not so sure. As we discussed with Carsten this is a difficult coast to traverse. The distances are such that we can't afford to use the fuel to motor too far if the wind dies because the next fuel stop is not until Seisia around Cape York and if the wind comes up as is forecast for the next few days (25-30 knots) then we have to make the next anchorage before dark and it might not be too pleasant with incessant rolling causing lack of sleep. Therefore the daily decision making becomes quite onerous and once committed there is no going back. It causes a lot of stress which quickly fades if one gets it right with weather etc but if not then it becomes a problem. Even the weather forecasts are often at variance with each other!! On an ocean passage one just gets into a routine and gets on with it but here with big daily distances and the need to find a sheltered anchorage before dark it can be a little fraught.
It is not a cakewalk sailing this coast! We will certainly be glad when around the top. After that there are 2 longish passages where we'll eat up the miles. Apart from Gove, the Wessel Islands and Port Essington where we plan to spend a few days we'll be hightailing it to Darwin.
Message for Heather: hi Heather - we did get your email, thank you. No problem with its length which was just about right. Glad to hear all is continuing to go well for you.
Cheers and love from us
Jim and Jean xoxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Tuesday 21 May 2013
Howick Island Lat 14 degrees 29.7' S Long 144 degrees 57.5' E 21/05/13
We left Lizard with few regrets at 0800 this morning after some indecision as regards likely weather. All night the wind was never below 15 knots and fairly often above 20. With the wind power generator howling like a banshee it makes it sound worse than it really is.
Anyway, we are getting ahead of ourselves. Nearly all day Sunday it poured with rain and the wind howled. In spite of that Jean managed to do the washing including one sheet and get it all dry! Later in the afternoon it cleared somewhat and 2 optimistic crews decided to go around to the Marlin Bar as they had heard it was going to be open - Sunday only. But lo and behold, when they got there it was shut (fermee just like New Caledonia!!!) so we were glad we didn't go. The next day (Monday) there had been mention of a tour of the Barrier Reef Research Centre on the other side of the island and, as the rain had lessened by then, we decided to go. It was well worthwhile. Firstly a dinghy ride around into the next bay and then a 2 kilometre walk along a sandy vehicle trail - mostly flat but a little up and down in places. Went past the end of the airstrip and then about half an hour later we arrived at the research station. We numbered 10 from "2XS", "Settlement", "Backchat", "Kickin' Bak", and us. We were met by one of the directors who originally comes from Minnesota in the US. The station is run under the aegis of the Australian University in Sydney but depends for its funding largely on private benefactors such as the Proud Family of Proud's Jewellers fame. He gave us a wonderful detailed explanation of their work and at one stage showed us a real live Crown of Thorns starfish which is the real enemy of the reef. It is a grotesque looking creature with extremely poisonous thorns. The only method of control at present is hand injection with poison but unless the injection is made in the correct place, only part of the starfish dies and the rest regenerates to continue on its destructive path. With millions of starfish spread over many square miles it is an immense task. There is another population explosion occurring right now so it is not a good outlook unless they can come up with a much better method of control. Apparently there is nothing on the horizon for now. We walked back again after a most fascinating time and were very glad to have a swim to cool down.
Today we sailed the 30 miles to Howick. Wind up to 24 knots but mostly around 18-20 on our port quarter. Started off with a double reefed main and staysail expecting the worst and motorsailed for the 1st. 2 hours making power and water. Then shook one reef out and changed to the genoa. We averaged 5.5 - 6 knots all the way (the usual "rolling down the trades"!) and anchored in 10 meters of water - murky water. Reputed to hide coral heads so our approach was very circumspect. "Settlement" and "2XS" (both cats) had arrived ahead of us so we anchored beside them. Howick is lacking in any redeeming feature except for providing reasonable shelter from the ever present S Easterlies. It is a flat mangrove infested island 17 miles off the coast with no landing spot - not that you'd want to because where there are mangroves there are crocodiles. It has a muddy rockbound coastline and is definitely not a tourist destination! However, it serves our purpose. It's now 2000 and time for a shower and bed. Tomorrow we have 56 miles to cover to the Flinders Group so that means an early start. The wind is supposed to be dropping over the next few days - hopefully not too much so that our daily passages can be a little more comfortable for a while.
We'll let you know how it goes.
Love from us........
Jean and Jim
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Anyway, we are getting ahead of ourselves. Nearly all day Sunday it poured with rain and the wind howled. In spite of that Jean managed to do the washing including one sheet and get it all dry! Later in the afternoon it cleared somewhat and 2 optimistic crews decided to go around to the Marlin Bar as they had heard it was going to be open - Sunday only. But lo and behold, when they got there it was shut (fermee just like New Caledonia!!!) so we were glad we didn't go. The next day (Monday) there had been mention of a tour of the Barrier Reef Research Centre on the other side of the island and, as the rain had lessened by then, we decided to go. It was well worthwhile. Firstly a dinghy ride around into the next bay and then a 2 kilometre walk along a sandy vehicle trail - mostly flat but a little up and down in places. Went past the end of the airstrip and then about half an hour later we arrived at the research station. We numbered 10 from "2XS", "Settlement", "Backchat", "Kickin' Bak", and us. We were met by one of the directors who originally comes from Minnesota in the US. The station is run under the aegis of the Australian University in Sydney but depends for its funding largely on private benefactors such as the Proud Family of Proud's Jewellers fame. He gave us a wonderful detailed explanation of their work and at one stage showed us a real live Crown of Thorns starfish which is the real enemy of the reef. It is a grotesque looking creature with extremely poisonous thorns. The only method of control at present is hand injection with poison but unless the injection is made in the correct place, only part of the starfish dies and the rest regenerates to continue on its destructive path. With millions of starfish spread over many square miles it is an immense task. There is another population explosion occurring right now so it is not a good outlook unless they can come up with a much better method of control. Apparently there is nothing on the horizon for now. We walked back again after a most fascinating time and were very glad to have a swim to cool down.
Today we sailed the 30 miles to Howick. Wind up to 24 knots but mostly around 18-20 on our port quarter. Started off with a double reefed main and staysail expecting the worst and motorsailed for the 1st. 2 hours making power and water. Then shook one reef out and changed to the genoa. We averaged 5.5 - 6 knots all the way (the usual "rolling down the trades"!) and anchored in 10 meters of water - murky water. Reputed to hide coral heads so our approach was very circumspect. "Settlement" and "2XS" (both cats) had arrived ahead of us so we anchored beside them. Howick is lacking in any redeeming feature except for providing reasonable shelter from the ever present S Easterlies. It is a flat mangrove infested island 17 miles off the coast with no landing spot - not that you'd want to because where there are mangroves there are crocodiles. It has a muddy rockbound coastline and is definitely not a tourist destination! However, it serves our purpose. It's now 2000 and time for a shower and bed. Tomorrow we have 56 miles to cover to the Flinders Group so that means an early start. The wind is supposed to be dropping over the next few days - hopefully not too much so that our daily passages can be a little more comfortable for a while.
We'll let you know how it goes.
Love from us........
Jean and Jim
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Thursday 16 May 2013
Lizard Island Lat 14 degrees 39.7' S Long 145 degrees 27.1' E
Well, seduced by a Grib file weather forecast last night for not more than 18 knots we left Bedford at 0700. We had one reef in the main and motorsailed to make water and power as usual. Then the wind from the SE started showing some strength so we put in a double reef, stopped the engine and hoisted the staysail. We had a reasonable wind angle (broad on the starboard tack as our course was 015T) and the combination worked well, particularly as the wind steadily increased and we were getting sustained periods of 29 and 30 knots. On top of that there was thick overcast and some light rain. Not at all like the travel brochures!! We were getting along at between 5.5 and 6.5 knots with no fuss and no dragging the scuppers through the water. The old girl probably thought she was back in Cook Strait!! That's certainly what it looked and felt like.
We passed Cape Flattery at 1000 (about half way) and observed the endless white silica sand dunes which are being mined by a Japanese company. There is also a substantial shore installation with wharf, etc. There was a large chop of about 1.5 metres although no swell to speak of because of course we were always inside the Barrier Reef. We had our AIS alarm turned on because we were mostly in the north/south shipping channel but only saw a fishing boat.
We eventually arrived at Lizard at 1330 and screamed into the anchorage under sail doing 6 knots with over 25 knots still blowing, although thankfully the sea was at last flat in the lee of the island. Doused the sails and dropped the anchor, then Irvin and his girlfriend from "Backchat" who we had met at Bluewater came over and told us that we had dropped the anchor on a thin layer of sand over soft rock and so might drag. So, we lifted the anchor and moved to where they recommended. We have 120 feet of chain out in 17 feet of water so we should hold on our trusty Rocna.
Although we understand that the weather isn't good right now, we honestly can't see the attraction in this place. The water is clear and the beach looks lovely but really the only thing going for it is that the weather is warm. We might sound nostalgic, but many parts of the Bay of Islands leave it for dead - apart from the temperature! The wind is still screaming and it's drizzling off and on and reputably you would pay 1000's of dollars a night to stay at the resort on the island - which is out of bounds to us common yachties!! Just cannot see the attraction. If we weren't here on a mission on our way to Darwin and Malaysia, we wouldn't be here. And most of the anchorages we have seen on our way up from Bundaberg would fall into the same category. And the relentless SE wind - Capt. Cook became very depressed with these conditions and he didn't have charts or GPS! His sailing master was all for turning back the way they had come, but you can't sail those old square riggers against these conditions. More about the Great Navigator later.
It's now 1600 and time for a lie down!! We plan to stay here for about 3 days and visit the Research Station (from where they keep tabs on the health of the Barrier Reef) so we may develop a little less jaundiced a view towards the place after that. We'll let you know. And it's great to run into fellow yachtie travellers who we have known before in other places.
Love as always from us.............
Jim and Jean xoxoxo
P.S. Don't forget to keep tabs on us on the website - tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com - we won't always be emailing you direct
P.P.S. It is now pouring with rain and the wind in the anchorage is still 17 knots!
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We passed Cape Flattery at 1000 (about half way) and observed the endless white silica sand dunes which are being mined by a Japanese company. There is also a substantial shore installation with wharf, etc. There was a large chop of about 1.5 metres although no swell to speak of because of course we were always inside the Barrier Reef. We had our AIS alarm turned on because we were mostly in the north/south shipping channel but only saw a fishing boat.
We eventually arrived at Lizard at 1330 and screamed into the anchorage under sail doing 6 knots with over 25 knots still blowing, although thankfully the sea was at last flat in the lee of the island. Doused the sails and dropped the anchor, then Irvin and his girlfriend from "Backchat" who we had met at Bluewater came over and told us that we had dropped the anchor on a thin layer of sand over soft rock and so might drag. So, we lifted the anchor and moved to where they recommended. We have 120 feet of chain out in 17 feet of water so we should hold on our trusty Rocna.
Although we understand that the weather isn't good right now, we honestly can't see the attraction in this place. The water is clear and the beach looks lovely but really the only thing going for it is that the weather is warm. We might sound nostalgic, but many parts of the Bay of Islands leave it for dead - apart from the temperature! The wind is still screaming and it's drizzling off and on and reputably you would pay 1000's of dollars a night to stay at the resort on the island - which is out of bounds to us common yachties!! Just cannot see the attraction. If we weren't here on a mission on our way to Darwin and Malaysia, we wouldn't be here. And most of the anchorages we have seen on our way up from Bundaberg would fall into the same category. And the relentless SE wind - Capt. Cook became very depressed with these conditions and he didn't have charts or GPS! His sailing master was all for turning back the way they had come, but you can't sail those old square riggers against these conditions. More about the Great Navigator later.
It's now 1600 and time for a lie down!! We plan to stay here for about 3 days and visit the Research Station (from where they keep tabs on the health of the Barrier Reef) so we may develop a little less jaundiced a view towards the place after that. We'll let you know. And it's great to run into fellow yachtie travellers who we have known before in other places.
Love as always from us.............
Jim and Jean xoxoxo
P.S. Don't forget to keep tabs on us on the website - tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com - we won't always be emailing you direct
P.P.S. It is now pouring with rain and the wind in the anchorage is still 17 knots!
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Cape Bedford Lat. 15 degrees 14.2' S Long 145 degrees 19.4' E
Left Hope Isles at 0730 and motorsailed in overcast conditions for 2 hours while we charged the batteries and made water. The overcast made spotting coral bommies when leaving Hope almost impossible but we followed "Even Bet" out very gingerly (mostly out of gear) and didn't manage to hit anything! Few reefs to dodge on the way north but a combination of plotting on the paper chart and trusting the trusty chartplotter (!) ensured our safe passage. Past Cooktown on our port side 13 miles south of Bedford. Saw the usual number of ships in the ship channel but none came close.
Poled the genoa out on starboard tack and managed around 5 knots until the wind started to die almost at Cape Bedford. The cape has a series of fairly high (200 metres) flat topped hills and fairly shallow water close in. Not like Cape Brett that's for sure! It was a total of 33 miles today. As we came abreast of the southern part of the cape the wind really started to die and we re-started the engine to come round and into the anchorage. The bay is a very wide mangrove fringed shallow bay singularly lacking in any visual appeal. However, there is no swell so we'll have a comfortable night.
Tomorrow straight to Lizard - similar distance.
Love from us...
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Poled the genoa out on starboard tack and managed around 5 knots until the wind started to die almost at Cape Bedford. The cape has a series of fairly high (200 metres) flat topped hills and fairly shallow water close in. Not like Cape Brett that's for sure! It was a total of 33 miles today. As we came abreast of the southern part of the cape the wind really started to die and we re-started the engine to come round and into the anchorage. The bay is a very wide mangrove fringed shallow bay singularly lacking in any visual appeal. However, there is no swell so we'll have a comfortable night.
Tomorrow straight to Lizard - similar distance.
Love from us...
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Wednesday 15 May 2013
Hope Islands Lat 15 degrees 43.7' S Long 145 degrees 27.4' E `5 15/05/13
Well, here we are at the Hope islands. We had all sorts of big ideas of overnight sails but were so knackered we spent a day yesterday just resting and going ashore to have a gecko at the tourist island of Low Isles. Tourist boats from Port Douglas come out every day and there were 3 in total. There's an antique lighthouse there (1870's we think) and it is still in use, albeit unmanned. Not a bad anchorage but a bit rolly around high tide.
We left there this morning at 0700 along with 2 other boats from Bluewater - both catamarans ("Even Bet" and "2XS"). The latter boat is also in the Sail Indonesia rally in July. We had intended to leave at 2am and go straight to Cape Bedford 75 miles north. However, we hadn't sailed any distance now for nigh on 9 months and so we took the easier option and left at 7 and just came as far as Hope Is. That was 40 miles and was enough. It was a good enough sail - very light winds to begin with but we needed power and water so ran the engine for just over 2 hours by which time the wind had improved and we sailed thereafter. 4-5 knots with main alone so wasn't too bad and not so much rolling as yesterday. There is a ship channel all the way inside the Barrier Reef from south up to Thursday Island and at times it is busy. Probably we were passed by 6-8 ships going north and south. They always have a Reef Pilot on board to guard against any major disasters. The thought of a fully laden coal carrier hitting the reef is just horrifying for the possible environmental damage.
The approach to Hope from south is a little tricky and requires passage between 2 islands with reefs and then eyeballing for coral bommies as one comes into the anchorage. We didn't hit any and all we have to hope now is that we can retrieve our anchor from a bottom which apparently is quite foul. Still, we've rigged a trip line so hopefully all will be well.
Just another item of stress to overcome but generally these things are trouble free when one actually comes to do them. But, we'd have to say that we both feel very stressed at the moment because we have a long way to go and many tricky situations to overcome. However, we are finding that as we carry on the stress becomes easier and by the time a week has gone by we should be finding everything 2nd nature - hopefully!!
Cape Bedford tomorrow ( 34 miles) and then Lizard Is. ( 40 miles) where we will be spending 3 days or so for R & R. After that all plain sailing!!
Watch this space,
Love from us
Jean (Gina) and Jim
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We left there this morning at 0700 along with 2 other boats from Bluewater - both catamarans ("Even Bet" and "2XS"). The latter boat is also in the Sail Indonesia rally in July. We had intended to leave at 2am and go straight to Cape Bedford 75 miles north. However, we hadn't sailed any distance now for nigh on 9 months and so we took the easier option and left at 7 and just came as far as Hope Is. That was 40 miles and was enough. It was a good enough sail - very light winds to begin with but we needed power and water so ran the engine for just over 2 hours by which time the wind had improved and we sailed thereafter. 4-5 knots with main alone so wasn't too bad and not so much rolling as yesterday. There is a ship channel all the way inside the Barrier Reef from south up to Thursday Island and at times it is busy. Probably we were passed by 6-8 ships going north and south. They always have a Reef Pilot on board to guard against any major disasters. The thought of a fully laden coal carrier hitting the reef is just horrifying for the possible environmental damage.
The approach to Hope from south is a little tricky and requires passage between 2 islands with reefs and then eyeballing for coral bommies as one comes into the anchorage. We didn't hit any and all we have to hope now is that we can retrieve our anchor from a bottom which apparently is quite foul. Still, we've rigged a trip line so hopefully all will be well.
Just another item of stress to overcome but generally these things are trouble free when one actually comes to do them. But, we'd have to say that we both feel very stressed at the moment because we have a long way to go and many tricky situations to overcome. However, we are finding that as we carry on the stress becomes easier and by the time a week has gone by we should be finding everything 2nd nature - hopefully!!
Cape Bedford tomorrow ( 34 miles) and then Lizard Is. ( 40 miles) where we will be spending 3 days or so for R & R. After that all plain sailing!!
Watch this space,
Love from us
Jean (Gina) and Jim
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday 13 May 2013
Low Isles Lat 16 degrees 22.9' S Long 145 degrees 33.8' E
We left Bluewater this morning at 0945 feeling somewhat emotional as we have made many friends and acquaintances there and the chances are our paths may never cross again. On the other hand the ocean is in fact a small place so here's hoping. Chris and Gilli of "Westwind" just back from Tasmania, Billby and Cindy, Bill and Ros of "Lady Vivienne", David and Bronte of "Zigzag", Tim and Barbara (who have given us so much advice about SE Asia), Sandra and James (likewise), Val and John and "Suzie" of "Blue Musketeer" (who are gurus of the Queensland coast), Mark and Robyn and "Banjo", Graham of "Arion", Max who we met at Yorkeys Knob Boating Club, his friends, David and Marianna and Chris and Lynn from "Out of the Blue II" (who we hope to see again in Darwin, Jim and Liz of "Skybird 1" (might see them in Darwin), Jess who makes all the awnings and covers, Tania and Don who we hope to see again in Darwin, Ian and Janelle of "Even Bet" who will be sailing north at the same time,- to mention only a few. And of course Rick and his lovely assistant manager from Bluewater Marina, Kelly. A great stay - thank you to you both. The hardest part about leaving is always leaving wonderful people behind - it doesn't get any easier.
We also had quite a bit of anxiety as the high tide at 0955 was not very high - only 1.86 metres above chart datum - so we might have seemed a bit pre-occupied when we left!! Anyway, we decided to risk it and go and on our way down the creek there was only 3" under our keel at one point. However, we made it and turned onto 355T for the Low Isles. Poled out the genoa on starboard tack and we maintained just over 5 knots all the way (28 miles). We rolled quite a bit but the progress was good and we arrived here at 1600. Nice calm anchorage with only 2 other boats here so we'll have a good night's sleep before the 40 miles to Hope Isles tomorrow.
Cape Tribulation shrouded in mist lies behind us.
More fascinating adventures to follow!!
Love from us
Jim and Jean (Gina) xxooxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We also had quite a bit of anxiety as the high tide at 0955 was not very high - only 1.86 metres above chart datum - so we might have seemed a bit pre-occupied when we left!! Anyway, we decided to risk it and go and on our way down the creek there was only 3" under our keel at one point. However, we made it and turned onto 355T for the Low Isles. Poled out the genoa on starboard tack and we maintained just over 5 knots all the way (28 miles). We rolled quite a bit but the progress was good and we arrived here at 1600. Nice calm anchorage with only 2 other boats here so we'll have a good night's sleep before the 40 miles to Hope Isles tomorrow.
Cape Tribulation shrouded in mist lies behind us.
More fascinating adventures to follow!!
Love from us
Jim and Jean (Gina) xxooxoxo
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Sunday 12 May 2013
Leaving at last
We are leaving Cairns today for Darwin - 0930 on the tide. Low Isles tonight. Follow us on the website. We will always be pleased to hear from you on this address but please do not hit the "reply" button.
Cheers and love from us,
Jim and Jean (Gina)
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Cheers and love from us,
Jim and Jean (Gina)
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Thursday 9 May 2013
Difference between east and west!!
We noticed an error in our last blog where we said we'd be sailing down the east side of the Cape York Peninsula. Of course that should be the west side. Not knowing the difference between east and west - one wonders how we ever find our way anywhere!!
Cheers again.........
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Cheers again.........
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Wednesday 8 May 2013
Weather and email tribulations
We are still at Bluewater, Cairns. Although we haven't had the very strong winds that have been forecast, it is very difficult to assess that as the marina is very sheltered and bears no relation to what is happening out on the reef. However, we have been having quite a bit of rain so we feel we made the right decision to delay. In fact it seems that all of a sudden in what is supposed to be the dry season we are getting more rain than in the wet season! They certainly need the rain here and especially up on the Tablelands so we hope that they have received some of this.
We sold our airconditioner 2 weeks ago but haven't missed it because the temperatures are well down. Almost a need for a blanket in the early hours! Don't know whether that's due to our thinner blood or that the temperatures are in fact well down. Bit of both probably.
We are feeling very frustrated and conscious of the fact that with every day's delay we then have less time to get to Darwin.
We've been tweaking our passage plan to reflect the many pieces of advice we have been receiving. The main change is that after rounding Cape York we will first call in to Seisia (Bamaga) for fuel and supplies and then head south along the eastern Gulf of Carpentaria coast for about 100 miles before turning westwards and sailing to Gove on the other side in the Northern Territory. The advice for doing this is a bit conflicting but often very confused tidal effects can be experienced further north where the Arafura and Coral Seas meet. So, as long as we get away in the next 3 days or so we shouldn't compromise our plans too much.
On top of the pesky weather, we have had our "land" based Yahoo email hacked into and a scam email purporting to be from us sent out saying that we have been robbed in the Philippines and requesting that money be sent so that we could get home! We sent out a warning email to as many people as we could contact but we hope that no-one else was taken in and actually sent any money because of course that's what these scammers are after.
Capt. Cook was probably right when he named the Cape just north of here as Cape Tribulation!! As always watch this space.
Love from us...........
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We sold our airconditioner 2 weeks ago but haven't missed it because the temperatures are well down. Almost a need for a blanket in the early hours! Don't know whether that's due to our thinner blood or that the temperatures are in fact well down. Bit of both probably.
We are feeling very frustrated and conscious of the fact that with every day's delay we then have less time to get to Darwin.
We've been tweaking our passage plan to reflect the many pieces of advice we have been receiving. The main change is that after rounding Cape York we will first call in to Seisia (Bamaga) for fuel and supplies and then head south along the eastern Gulf of Carpentaria coast for about 100 miles before turning westwards and sailing to Gove on the other side in the Northern Territory. The advice for doing this is a bit conflicting but often very confused tidal effects can be experienced further north where the Arafura and Coral Seas meet. So, as long as we get away in the next 3 days or so we shouldn't compromise our plans too much.
On top of the pesky weather, we have had our "land" based Yahoo email hacked into and a scam email purporting to be from us sent out saying that we have been robbed in the Philippines and requesting that money be sent so that we could get home! We sent out a warning email to as many people as we could contact but we hope that no-one else was taken in and actually sent any money because of course that's what these scammers are after.
Capt. Cook was probably right when he named the Cape just north of here as Cape Tribulation!! As always watch this space.
Love from us...........
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday 6 May 2013
New "land" email address
Hi,
Since the hacking of our old Yahoo account we are now using tiare.taporo@gmail.com Hopefully we won't have the same issues.
Jim and Jean
Sunday 5 May 2013
Weather
Well it's unbelievable but we have decided to abort our departure until at least later this week because since we last wrote the forecast has changed and we are expecting strong winds for the next few days. All caused by the big high over Tasmania and soon to be over NZ. Should be a respite from the wild weekend weather down there.
But for us these big highs throw strong SE winds onto the north Queensland coast and in view of the forecast for increasing winds to over 30 knots we considered it prudent to wait for a more benign situation.
Hopefully won't be too long.
At the moment (0700 on 6/5) in the marina it's only 7 knots from the SE!!
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
But for us these big highs throw strong SE winds onto the north Queensland coast and in view of the forecast for increasing winds to over 30 knots we considered it prudent to wait for a more benign situation.
Hopefully won't be too long.
At the moment (0700 on 6/5) in the marina it's only 7 knots from the SE!!
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Saturday 4 May 2013
Rogues gallery
Rogues Gallery - last night on board "Tiare Taporo III" when we farewelled our friends Max Keane and David and Marianna Matzenik. We met Max at the Yorkeys Knob Boating Club several months ago. Max is a yachtie from way back and he even has sailed a Gauntlet in England when as a RAN officer he was seconded there for a while. The Gauntlet was a sail training yacht for the RN. David and Marianna are friends of his and have had extensive sailing experience running super yachts in the Carribean.
From left to right:
Jim, David, Jean, Max and Marianna.
We said a sad farewell which unfortunately happens all too soon in this cruising life - always moving on.
Tomorrow we leave Bluewater - always with regret but that's the cruising life.
You'll need to use our Sailmail address for contacting us over the next two months until we get to Darwin but you will be able to follow our progress as well on http://www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com/
Wish us luck - we'll communicate again soon but don't worry if you don't hear anything for a while.
With lots of love
Jim and Jean (Gina) xxxxoxo
Wednesday 1 May 2013
Weatherbound - the story of our lives!!
Don't know whether you have read about Cyclone Zane which unexpectedly reared its ugly head out in the Coral Sea a few days ago. Anyway, there have been varying reports ever since including an upgrade to Category 3 with 80 knot winds. April 30th. was the last official day of the cyclone season so it just shows how unpredictable these things can be. Zane was forecast to cross the coast around the Lockhart River, which is 250 miles to the north.
So, for us it wasn't exactly rocket science to make the decision to stay put and here we are. At the time of writing it has been drizzling this morning and we have 5 knots of wind from the SE!! Meantime the cyclone warning for Zane has been cancelled and we are now just looking at very strong winds over the weekend. So, we have tentatively decided that Monday the 6th. is the day and to make up for lost time we'll probably sail non stop for Lizard Is. - 130 miles to the north. Or we might stop for one night at the Low Islets just to embed our sealegs!
All conjecture at this stage but looking likely. Watch this space - more particularly watch our website: www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
Love again from us,
Jim and Jean (Gina)
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
So, for us it wasn't exactly rocket science to make the decision to stay put and here we are. At the time of writing it has been drizzling this morning and we have 5 knots of wind from the SE!! Meantime the cyclone warning for Zane has been cancelled and we are now just looking at very strong winds over the weekend. So, we have tentatively decided that Monday the 6th. is the day and to make up for lost time we'll probably sail non stop for Lizard Is. - 130 miles to the north. Or we might stop for one night at the Low Islets just to embed our sealegs!
All conjecture at this stage but looking likely. Watch this space - more particularly watch our website: www.tiaretaporo3.blogspot.com
Love again from us,
Jim and Jean (Gina)
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)