Wednesday 31 August 2011

Cap Ndoua lighthouse

We made contact with our friends from Edindurgh, Scotland, David and Mary on the British boat "Giselle of Argylle" on VHF this morning and proceeded to Rade de l'Est still in Baie du Prony where they were anchored. We decided to climb to the lighthouse which marks the western end of the Passe de Havannah and which gave us an excellent view of the Pass which we will be negotiating when we leave for Vanuatu. Looks like a piece of cake from a 189 metre altitude but the reality is that one needs primarily to time the tide correctly as it runs strongly in both directions through the Pass which is about 7 miles long. There are nasty seas generated in the entrance if there is wind against tide so we will be paying particular attention to the tide tables. However, the moon isn't the only influence; there is also atmospheric pressure and the pressure of seas coming in from the SW where there is no reef which means they have to find an outlet through the Pass. All makes life very tricky and has been the subject of much discussion between us and David and Mary.
While up at the lighthouse we spoke to two young lady whale researchers who were there to spot Humpback whales coming through the southern New Caledonia lagoon. They had a theodolite connected to a laptop computer which they used to calculate the whales' position as they passed through. One of them spoke excellent English and gave us very interesting information about the whales' migratory habits. They come up here from Antartica to give birth and to mate again. Apparently the whales that come here are a different group from those that go to other areas such as Tonga or Australia and they always return to the same place each year. After giving birth the mothers wait until the calves are strong enough to make the journey back south to much colder waters. Nature in all its manifestations is truly awesome to behold.
Tomorrow we are heading back in the direction of Noumea (about 25 miles) and intend to spend the night at Ilot Maitre about 3 miles from Noumea where there is a resort and restaurant!! They have mooring buoys which are available for private boats to moor to. This prevents damage to the coral from anchors contacting the sea floor. Then back to Noumea to provision for the 200 mile passage to Vanuatu. More weather window watching but nowhere so difficult as leaving NZ!!!
Watch this space.
LOts of love from J & G

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Sunday 28 August 2011

Still at Ilot Casy

Hi everyone
We are still at our mooring off Ilot (Island) Casy in Baie du Prony. Casy was apparently named after a French admiral. We went for a walk ashore this morning and walked to the top of the island - which isn't all that high! Angel fish swimming around the boat this morning and very clear water. There is a resident dog on the island who seems to depend on being fed by anyone who happens along. He's very friendly and enjoys showing visitors around! We felt quite sorry for him because he must be very lonely - not to mention hungry from time to time. So tomorrow we're taking in some cooked rice for him from a beef stir fry we're cooking tonight.
It's been a lazy day today spent walking and sleeping and then trying to decide where to go next after consultation with the charts and the Cruising Guide. There is a certain amount of trepidation with going to some places as when looking at the charts it is quite common to see "Warning - inadequately surveyed"!! We aren't interested in that sort of risk as we have some distance still to travel from here and want to get there in one piece! We'll probably o further up the Baie du Prony tomorrow as it's a very extensive and deep bay with many possible anchorages - similar to Whangaroa in some ways.
That's it for now; the stir fry is nearly ready!
Cheers and lots of love
J & J (G)

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Cruising New Caledonia

We spent last night in Baie Ouie and this morning came around 15 miles to Baie du Prony which is a large deep bay - over 40 metres throughout most of its area. We came through the Cabal Woodin which is a narrow (but deep) channel between the mainland and Ile Ouen. Fortunately we had the ebb tide with us because our speed over the ground increased by 3.5 knots through Canal Woodin. Very pretty with the coastal landscape very reminicsent of Gt Barrier and coastal Northland except that there is evidence of huge erosion everywhere - very large red scars blighting the landscape. In Baie du Prony itself there is a large nickel port with nickel conveyor lines converging to where a nickel ore carrier was berthed.
We came further into the bay and came around the eastern end of the Ilot (Island) Casey. A beautiful little bay with a golden sand beach and mooring buoys because they don't like you dropping anchors which can damage the coral. There was the remains of a hotel/guest house which our cruising guide said was still operating! However, it seems that it had been abandoned around 2003. But all the equipment was still there; we went through the kitchen and everything was there and intact - furniture, office computers etc etc. It looks as though the operator just walked away from what was a lovely resort. Such a shame in so lovely a setting. Menus were still on the bar!! We had had visions of sitting at the bar with a cold beer but alas - not to be.
We couldn't believe our eyes when we came into the bay when we saw a German catamaran "Diaethyl" already there. We had got to know them in Whangarei and they had given us charts of the US east coast and the Carribean. Quite daunting to think of getting that far having already had such a bad passage thus far. Still, one step at a time as they say. We went on board "Diaethyl" to renew acquaintance and finished up staying for a while and not a few glasses of wine later!! Then back to "Tiare" and dinner. It's now 2230 on a beautiful breathless evening and it's time for bed.
Walking ashore in the morning followed by a swim we think.
Night night from us
J & J (G)

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Friday 26 August 2011

(no subject)

Well we haven't been doing much today. Felt quite anxious about our charging system last night because it appeared to stop charging before the batteries were full but it does charge up to 94% so we think it's probably ok. There is a fuse which keeps blowing though which is a bit of a concern - however, when we get back to Noumea in a few days we will get the local electrician Gerrard to have a look. Jim emailed him this morning in French and with the aid of our trusty French dictionary managed to get all the technical stuff across.
We had our neighbours, Brian and Claudia who own the American yacht "Skylight" for a cup of tea and fresh Spelt Flour scones baked fresh this morning by Jean. They have sailed from California via Mexico, Marquesas, Tahiti, Tonga, Fiji and Vanuatu. They are also going on to Australia. Great conversation about all sorts of things!!
Weather not so good today - 100% cloud cover with occasional drizzle and a 10-15 knot E-SE. So we've stayed put but will go round to Baie du Prony tomorrow which apparently is beautiful.
Keep watching this space..............!!

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Wednesday 24 August 2011

French bureaucracy!!

Hi
Yesterday was our last day in Noumea for a while and we received notification that 2 replacement windvanes which we'd ordered from Australia had arrived. So far so good but the local Customs (Douane) wanted to charge us 7500 francs in duty!! This equates to NZD110. This in spite of the fact that we are a yacht in transit and any parts ordered should be duty free as they are going to be re-exported. So, we set off for the Customs office which is situated in the commercial port about 2 kms from the marina. When we arrived we were fairly peremptorily told to wait - which we did for 10 minutes or so. Then we had to fill in a form where all the questions were in French which taxed even Jim's French!! However, the Customs officer was very helpful and spoke reasonable English. Then armed with our duty free form we had to retrace our steps to the main Post Office in the Rue de la Republique where our parcel was being held. After some time we managed to find out that we needed to go to the 2nd floor to get another approval. By now it was after 2.30 and the place closed at 3!! After some conversation in mixed French and English we got the necessary signature and proceeded downstairs again where we eventually discovered that we needed to get a computer generated ticket which had a number on it and when our number was called we could approach one of the manned desks. Bit like going into a fish and chip shop and being given a number!! Our number was duly called and after a lengthy search they found our parcel and we left for the marina via the local supermarket (Casino) and the local Boulangerie (butcher).
The whole exercise took over 2 hours to obtain an item worth barely $200!! French bureaucracy is something else and put Jim in mind of an experience with a bank in St. Tropez in France in 2000 - but we won't go into that!!
We could feel the onset of marina fever so it's been time for us to set sail again although we haven't gone far. We needed to refuel (and only took 143 litres after the passage from the BOI), then we thought we'd just go as far as Anse Kuendu which is really a maritime suburb of Noumea - just to get back into the cruising mode with organising an anchorage and reading charts again. However, we sailed in company with another NZ boat called "Cigalle" and came south only just around the back of Noumea to the Ilot Uere - about an hour's voyage time. A great sheltered anchorage but the Cruising Guide warns of coral heads in the western side of the bay. We can see the lights of the southern side of Noumea from here. Quite deserted - it's just us and "Cigalle" here tonight. Then it'll be the Baie du Prony tomorrow (about 35 miles south) and then the Isle des Pins (another 40 miles) whenever it looks good to go. Fortunately the long term forecast looks good for this, although not good for our intended passage to Vanuatu. Still, hopefully by the time we are ready to go there we will have a more favourable wind direction.
We'll keep you posted!
Cheers and love from us.
Jean (Gina) and Jim

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Saturday 20 August 2011

Re: Category One - Tiare Taporo III

Hi Jim,
Like you I also don't wish to enter into a protracted email debate!! And as you say, we will have to agree to disagree, although it seems to me that the area of disagreement is relatively small and restricted to the length of time that a Cat One certificate remains current.
I must also point out (again) that the Cat One process does not and cannot "consider the safety and security of all entering and leaving New Zealand". It can only relate to departing NZ registered vessels and it would be interesting to know the percentage of NZ registered vessels departing as opposed to foreign flagged vessels.
As I said earlier I hope that for all the reasons previously raised some change can be made  to the currency of Cat One certificates.
I am sitting in the Port Moselle marina cafe right now with the rain pouring down - hence a bit of time on my hands to continue this correspondence!! Thank you for your time in answering the points I have raised.  I will look forward to hearing from you in due course once you have held your next meeting to consider the issues raised.
Regards,
Jim Donald
 

From: Jim Lilley <Jim.Lilley@maritimenz.govt.nz>
To: Jim Donald <tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz>
Sent: Saturday, 20 August 2011 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: Category One - Tiare Taporo III

Hello Jim
 
Thank you for your two replies; I am quite busy and will answer both now, at the risk of this dialogue becoming a bit vexatious I think we will have to call this a draw and agree to disagree!
 
I am sorry I did not specifically mean that the Cat 1 protects travelers from foreign threats; what I was saying was that Maritime New Zealand works with the New Zealand Customs Service (and Police, MAF, Bio-security etc) in a joint border management type approach (whole of government), according to their relevant statutes, which includes considering the safety and security of all entering and leaving New Zealand. The role of Maritime New Zealand (and Yachting New Zealand) in this particular process is to ensure New Zealand Customs Service that when they clear a yacht to leave our shores, that it has gone through a robust process to ensure both the vessel and the crew are up to the voyage the intend to take. This process results in the issuing of a NZ 12049 certificate which is valid for a month.
 
As I have promised in a previous email, I will raise this again at the next meeting of the MNZ/YNZ Technical Group meeting for discussion. I also said that it was noted at that previous meeting that as yours was the first complaint received around this issue, it was probably a blip on the radar insomuch that you were the victim of an unfortunate set of circumstances that made the bureaucracy appear larger than life.
 
Regardless, there needs to be a system in place, and the system we have in place is that MNZ certificates 12049 are valid for a period of 30 days. I am not aware of anyone having any problem getting a new one if they have not been able to clear New Zealand within the 30 days beyond actually having to ask for one.
 
As you have left New Zealand and do not intend to return, a protracted and circular email debate that will not alter any of this, and as stated above we will simply have to agree to disagree. I will keep your email on record and I will inform you of the outcome of your issue at the next MNZ/YNZ Technical Group meeting (we have two per annum).
 
In the meantime I wish fair winds and calm seas
 
Regards
 
Jim Lilley | Acting Manager Recreation & Small Craft
Maritime New Zealand | Rangiora
T +64 3 3287 946 | M +64 275 387 566 | F +64 3 3289 423 | W www.maritimenz.govt.nz/contact-us
From: Jim Donald [mailto:tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz]
Sent: Tuesday, 16 August 2011 11:15 a.m.
To: Jim Lilley
Subject: Re: Category One - Tiare Taporo III
 
Good morning,
Thank you for your reply.
Ours might have been the only complaint but I have spoken at length to various yacht skippers and they all agree with my point about expiry date. It's also highly probable that most boats would not be in a position to engage in lengthy email correspondence nor would wish to. Perhaps we are unique in that regard!!
I am still totally unable to understand the logic surrounding the arbitrary 30 day period. The first time our Cat One went over the 30 day period there simply had not been (to us) a satisfactory window during that time and reading the reports about current weather in NZ I wouldn't like to be trying to leave now!! (Please ignore these italics - I pressed something and can't work out how to change the font back!! )
I maintain my opinion that having a 30 day expiry could well be in many cases prejudicial to small craft safety and I would hope for the sake of others that you are able to extend this. I cannot see for the life of me how this would undermine the integrity of Cat One. Quite the reverse in fact.
Regards,
Jim Donald
 
From: Jim Lilley <Jim.Lilley@maritimenz.govt.nz>
To: tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz
Sent: Saturday, 13 August 2011 1:24 PM
Subject: Category One - Tiare Taporo III
Hello Jim
 
Your email was passed along to me and I would like to apologise for the delay in getting back to you; I have been on leave, then out of town since then.
 
I understand that you find the system in place frustrating; however this is the system in place. That the MNZ Certificate 12409 (commonly called cat 1) expires after one month has been developed over an extended period and involved very wide consultation. I am sorry that you find this inconvenient, but that is the situation.
 
As you have stated, you will be gone from New Zealand so this will not likely impact upon you again, if it does, I suggest that you contact your yacht inspector straight away. If all is in order, you should have no difficulty in obtaining an updated 12409 certificate.
 
I will raise this again (we did rise it on your behalf before), at the next meeting of the MNZ/YNZ Technical Group meeting for discussion. It was noted at that previous meeting that as yours was the first complaint received around this issue, it was probably a blip on the radar insomuch that you were the victim of an unfortunate set of circumstances that made the bureaucracy appear larger than life.
 
I noted your view that you thought that the 30 day validation of the 12049 was another expression of NANNY STATE, but I am sure that you share our desire to ensure all mariners at sea are safe and that all New Zealander's are protected from all foreign threats, and hope that if you do return to New Zealand you have a better experience when you leave again.
 
Kind regards
 
Jim Lilley | Acting Manager Recreation & Small Craft
Maritime New Zealand | Rangiora
T +64 3 3287 946 | M +64 275 387 566 | F +64 3 3289 423 | W www.maritimenz.govt.nz/contact-us
 
From: Jim Donald [mailto:tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz]
Sent: Saturday, 6 August 2011 4:44 p.m.
To: General Enquiries
Subject: Fw: Category One - Tiare Taporo III
Good afternoon,
Do you think that I might have the courtesy of a reply sometime in the near future. The original email was sent 5 days ago.
Thanks
Jim Donald
 
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Jim Donald <tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz>
To: "enquiries@maritimenz.govt.nz" <enquiries@maritimenz.govt.nz>
Cc: "yachts@customs.govt.nz" <yachts@customs.govt.nz>; "mail@yachtingnz.org.nz" <mail@yachtingnz.org.nz>
Sent: Monday, 1 August 2011 12:37 PM
Subject: Category One - Tiare Taporo III
Good morning,
We have recently completed a passage from the Bay of Islands , NZ to Noumea , New Caledonia and I wish to comment on the process of issuance of our Category One certificate.
Firstly, I wish to state that our yacht inspector, Lester Smith was unfailingly helpful and obliging throughout what became a most trying situation. I cannot emphasise this enough.
Our certificate was issued by Lester at Whangarei on April 22nd. 2011. Approximately 3 weeks later we proceeded to Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei with the intention of leaving on a weather window we thought we had identified. However, the window evaporated (as they do) and we instead proceeded to the Bay of Islands . In the meantime the original certificate had expired and Lester faxed an extension. We eventually left but my partner developed a medical condition which meant she lost conciousness on board when we were about 80 miles north of the BOI. So we turned back and her condition was diagnosed as an airway blockage into one lung which caused oxygen deprivation. With treatment and medication she is thankfully now fine.
Then, after another extension from Lester we left again hoping to beat a low pressure system which was approaching. However, conditions seemed to be getting worse and so we turned back yet again.
I want to again emphasise that these decisions to turn back were made solely in the interests of the boat and its crew and were most certainly justified on prudent safety grounds. However, we were then back in the BOI with a well expired Cat 1 certificate with all the attendant bureaucratic nonsense that that entailed. At one stage we had 3 different answers from Customs in one day on what they would require for future clearance!! From "just another fax" to a completely new Cat One.
My point is that, while I have no argument with the concept of documented safety standards, I most certainly condemn the nonsensical situation of 30 days currency for Cat One. In our case it most definitely was a contributry factor in making the decision to sail at various times and in that pressured environment it can act in exactly the opposite way from that intended - i.e. to promote safety for small vessels sailing from NZ.
You would be aware that  picking weather windows from NZ's latitude in early winter is fraught at best and the pressure to sail within 30 days is a distraction that is clearly undesirable. I have no hesitation in expressing the opinion that continuing to insist that the 30 day time limit stands is no less than another expression of the NANNY STATE attitude which we are all saddled with these days in all sorts of areas. I hope that you are able to view and consider these comments in an objective manner and amend the Cat One requirements to relieve yacht skippers from this needless distraction when making decisions in the best interests of their boats and crew.
It certainly won't be worrying us because we will not be returning to NZ on the boat and so will be free of these types of nonsensical requirements in future. 
Regards,
Jim Donald
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
c/o Port Moselle Marina ,
Noumea,
New Caledonia
 
 
 
This email message and any accompanying attachments do not necessarily reflect the views of Maritime New Zealand and may contain information that is confidential and subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not use, disseminate, distribute or copy this email message or its attachments. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender by email immediately, and erase all copies of this message and attachments.
Thank you.
Address:
Maritime New Zealand , Level 10, Optimation House, 1 Grey Street ,
Wellington 6011.
PO Box 27006, Wellington 6041
Tel: 0508 22 55 22 (04 473 0111) Fax: 04 494 1263.
www.maritimenz.govt.nz
 
This email message and any accompanying attachments do not necessarily reflect the views of Maritime New Zealand and may contain information that is confidential and subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not use, disseminate, distribute or copy this email message or its attachments. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender by email immediately, and erase all copies of this message and attachments.
Thank you.
Address:
Maritime New Zealand, Level 10, Optimation House, 1 Grey Street,
Wellington 6011.
PO Box 27006, Wellington 6041
Tel: 0508 22 55 22 (04 473 0111) Fax: 04 494 1263.
www.maritimenz.govt.nz


Thursday 18 August 2011

Marina bound

Still we are here - you probably think we prefer marinas to sailing! We had intended to leave today for the Isle of Pines but the weather forecast is bad with a LP weather system coming down from the north and the likelihood of adverse winds and heavy rain for most of the coming week. So, have decided to stay here for at least a few more days and continue to enjoy the local life which seems to mostly revolve around the food which has improved as we have found better places to eat. Went to Toto Restaurant the other night and had a dozen snails each and they were superb. Never had such a delicious meal. We will be back!!
We are embarking on a series of extensive walks to keep a bit fit and see more of Noumea so must close soon and get going. Sitting in the marina cafe having just had a coffee and croissant and at the moment there is no wind and fine although the cloud is increasing and there are signs the expected northerlies are beginning.
One of these days we will actually leave and head for Vanuatu! Yesterday joined the Port Bundaberg Port to Port Rally which operates during October and November and covers any vessels leaving this area of the Pacific for Bundaberg. One of the benefits is that they refund The Australian entry fees of $A330 but charge $A200 for the Rally so a net saving of $A130! But radio scheds and welcome in Bundaberg and other forms of assistance make it worthwhile.
More from us later.
Cheers,
Jim and Jean (Gina)

Monday 15 August 2011

Tiare Taporo III

Hi again,
Sorry to bombard you with messages but I have just re-read your email and I note that among other things you claim that Cat One protects New Zealanders from foreign threats. Just how is a piece of paper supposed to do that and what foreign threats are you referring to? No-one in New Caledonia is remotely interested in our Cat One certificate and I suspect that would be the case world-wide.
I would also be interested to know the percentage of foreign flagged yachts as opposed to NZ registered yachts leaving NZ in each year. You cannot enforce Cat One on foreign vessels and NZ has an obligation to provide search and rescue services to any boat regardless of flag in its zone of rescue responsibility so it could hardly be claimed to be a cost saving measure.
I'd be interested in your comments.
Regards,
Jim Donald
 

Re: Category One - Tiare Taporo III

Good morning,
Thank you for your reply.
Ours might have been the only complaint but I have spoken at length to various yacht skippers and they all agree with my point about expiry date. It's also highly probable that most boats would not be in a position to engage in lengthy email correspondence nor would wish to. Perhaps we are unique in that regard!!
I am still totally unable to understand the logic surrounding the arbitrary 30 day period. The first time our Cat One went over the 30 day period there simply had not been (to us) a satisfactory window during that time and reading the reports about current weather in NZ I wouldn't like to be trying to leave now!! (Please ignore these italics - I pressed something and can't work out how to change the font back!! )
I maintain my opinion that having a 30 day expiry could well be in many cases prejudicial to small craft safety and I would hope for the sake of others that you are able to extend this. I cannot see for the life of me how this would undermine the integrity of Cat One. Quite the reverse in fact.
Regards,
Jim Donald

From: Jim Lilley <Jim.Lilley@maritimenz.govt.nz>
To: tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz
Sent: Saturday, 13 August 2011 1:24 PM
Subject: Category One - Tiare Taporo III

Hello Jim
 
Your email was passed along to me and I would like to apologise for the delay in getting back to you; I have been on leave, then out of town since then.
 
I understand that you find the system in place frustrating; however this is the system in place. That the MNZ Certificate 12409 (commonly called cat 1) expires after one month has been developed over an extended period and involved very wide consultation. I am sorry that you find this inconvenient, but that is the situation.
 
As you have stated, you will be gone from New Zealand so this will not likely impact upon you again, if it does, I suggest that you contact your yacht inspector straight away. If all is in order, you should have no difficulty in obtaining an updated 12409 certificate.
 
I will raise this again (we did rise it on your behalf before), at the next meeting of the MNZ/YNZ Technical Group meeting for discussion. It was noted at that previous meeting that as yours was the first complaint received around this issue, it was probably a blip on the radar insomuch that you were the victim of an unfortunate set of circumstances that made the bureaucracy appear larger than life.
 
I noted your view that you thought that the 30 day validation of the 12049 was another expression of NANNY STATE, but I am sure that you share our desire to ensure all mariners at sea are safe and that all New Zealander's are protected from all foreign threats, and hope that if you do return to New Zealand you have a better experience when you leave again.
 
Kind regards
 
Jim Lilley | Acting Manager Recreation & Small Craft
Maritime New Zealand | Rangiora
T +64 3 3287 946 | M +64 275 387 566 | F +64 3 3289 423 | W www.maritimenz.govt.nz/contact-us
 
From: Jim Donald [mailto:tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz]
Sent: Saturday, 6 August 2011 4:44 p.m.
To: General Enquiries
Subject: Fw: Category One - Tiare Taporo III
Good afternoon,
Do you think that I might have the courtesy of a reply sometime in the near future. The original email was sent 5 days ago.
Thanks
Jim Donald
 
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Jim Donald <tiare_taporo@yahoo.co.nz>
To: "enquiries@maritimenz.govt.nz" <enquiries@maritimenz.govt.nz>
Cc: "yachts@customs.govt.nz" <yachts@customs.govt.nz>; "mail@yachtingnz.org.nz" <mail@yachtingnz.org.nz>
Sent: Monday, 1 August 2011 12:37 PM
Subject: Category One - Tiare Taporo III
Good morning,
We have recently completed a passage from the Bay of Islands , NZ to Noumea , New Caledonia and I wish to comment on the process of issuance of our Category One certificate.
Firstly, I wish to state that our yacht inspector, Lester Smith was unfailingly helpful and obliging throughout what became a most trying situation. I cannot emphasise this enough.
Our certificate was issued by Lester at Whangarei on April 22nd. 2011. Approximately 3 weeks later we proceeded to Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei with the intention of leaving on a weather window we thought we had identified. However, the window evaporated (as they do) and we instead proceeded to the Bay of Islands . In the meantime the original certificate had expired and Lester faxed an extension. We eventually left but my partner developed a medical condition which meant she lost conciousness on board when we were about 80 miles north of the BOI. So we turned back and her condition was diagnosed as an airway blockage into one lung which caused oxygen deprivation. With treatment and medication she is thankfully now fine.
Then, after another extension from Lester we left again hoping to beat a low pressure system which was approaching. However, conditions seemed to be getting worse and so we turned back yet again.
I want to again emphasise that these decisions to turn back were made solely in the interests of the boat and its crew and were most certainly justified on prudent safety grounds. However, we were then back in the BOI with a well expired Cat 1 certificate with all the attendant bureaucratic nonsense that that entailed. At one stage we had 3 different answers from Customs in one day on what they would require for future clearance!! From "just another fax" to a completely new Cat One.
My point is that, while I have no argument with the concept of documented safety standards, I most certainly condemn the nonsensical situation of 30 days currency for Cat One. In our case it most definitely was a contributry factor in making the decision to sail at various times and in that pressured environment it can act in exactly the opposite way from that intended - i.e. to promote safety for small vessels sailing from NZ.
You would be aware that  picking weather windows from NZ's latitude in early winter is fraught at best and the pressure to sail within 30 days is a distraction that is clearly undesirable. I have no hesitation in expressing the opinion that continuing to insist that the 30 day time limit stands is no less than another expression of the NANNY STATE attitude which we are all saddled with these days in all sorts of areas. I hope that you are able to view and consider these comments in an objective manner and amend the Cat One requirements to relieve yacht skippers from this needless distraction when making decisions in the best interests of their boats and crew.
It certainly won't be worrying us because we will not be returning to NZ on the boat and so will be free of these types of nonsensical requirements in future. 
Regards,
Jim Donald
s.v. Tiare Taporo III
c/o Port Moselle Marina ,
Noumea,
New Caledonia
 
 
 
This email message and any accompanying attachments do not necessarily reflect the views of Maritime New Zealand and may contain information that is confidential and subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not use, disseminate, distribute or copy this email message or its attachments. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender by email immediately, and erase all copies of this message and attachments.
Thank you.
Address:
Maritime New Zealand, Level 10, Optimation House, 1 Grey Street,
Wellington 6011.
PO Box 27006, Wellington 6041
Tel: 0508 22 55 22 (04 473 0111) Fax: 04 494 1263.
www.maritimenz.govt.nz


Land journey through New Caledonia

Hi
We arrived back in Noumea this afternon after 3 fascinating days exploring the island. To give you some idea of the scale of this place - the main island is some 200 nautical miles (370 kms) long and 30 nautical miles (56 kms) wide. There are very steep drop offs down to the ocean floor around 4000 metres very close to the coast on both sides so one could be forgiven for thinking that life could be a bit precarious here! But the place has been here for a few years now so is probably going to be here for a few more! As a matter of fact it was once attached to NZ and Australia as part of old Gondwanaland and much of the flora and fauna (particularly in the south) is very similar to NZ.
Day 1 - Friday 12th. We had arranged to hire our car through Noumea Yacht Services here at Port Moselle and we walked over there at 0800. However, we found that the car had been hired to our neighbouring yacht for the previous few days and was far from clean! So, we borrowed their vacuum cleaner and sorted out the interior - no time to deal with the exterior which was liberally coated with red mud. Only here in NC!! Still, it was a nearly new diesel Peugeot 206 and was a good trusty vehicle; also economical which was just as well as diesel is almost the equivalent of NZD2 per litre. A little strange getting used to driving on the right again but the experience of a month's driving in Europe a few years ago came to the fore and soon we were hurtling along the toll road north of Noumea with the best of them! The country between here and Bourail (our first night's stop) is fairly uninteresting and quite arid so we were glad to get to La Foa in time for an early lunch. We stopped at the Banu Hotel where we were booked to stay during our return and were well sustained. This establishment has the reputation for the best food in all NC but we will elaborate on that later.
We then carried on to Bourail which is a farming centre but a very dusty uninteresting town. Still, it was an eye opener for us to realise just how important agriculture is here - all sorts of horticulture and deer and beef farming. We even saw onions growing - almost thought we were back in Pukekohe!! About 10 kms south of Bourail we stopped at the NZ 2nd World War Cemetery. It was especially interesting for Jim because his 1st father-in-law, Bryce Tomkinson had been in the NZ Army at Bourail during the war and because he had then been too old for combat duty and also because he had been a photographer (and later had his very well known retail camera business in Auckland), he had been involved in recording and photographing the grave details of NZ'ers killed in battles further north. We became quite emotional as we walked between the rows of graves and viewed the brief details - most were well under 30 (a few as young as 19) and many had no known grave - "known unto God". The land for the cemetery had been donated by a local citizen and stood on a spur of land looking out over a peaceful lushly wooded valley. It was immaculately kept and a credit to whoever was looking after it. A fitting last resting place for those men and women but such a waste. Let's hope it never has to happen again.
We later visited the Musee de Bourail and they had an extensive exhibit devoted to the wartime presence of the NZ'ers. It seems that there were 5 NZ Army camps in the vicinity of Bourail - all inland of the town so couldn't be sure which one Bryce was attached to. NZ'ers are held in high esteem around here. We also looked through a book devoted to early settlers and read the history of Bourail which was in the early days a French penal colony as so many of these places were - e.g. Australia. Makes one very humble to realise just how much human history is involved in places such as this. And the conflict with the natives (Kanaks) - much like NZ.
We then eventually found our hotel (El Kantara) out at the beach - La Roche Percee whose main claim to fame is an impossibly angled rock (La Roche) which looks as though it is about to fall into the sea. All our accommodation had been booked by Chloe at Noumea Yacht Services and, although it wasn't 5 star, it didn't break the bank which is all too easy in this place!! We ate in town and then found our way back out to the beach in the dark for a good night's sleep!).
Day 2 - Sat. 13th. We had intended to visit the annual Foire de Bourail (Bourail Agricultural Show) but were short of time although it would no doubt have been very interesting with rodeo events and all that went with it. One doesn't normally associate these types of things with the average Pacific Island.
We continued north up the west coast as far as Kone 111 kms away. Still fairly uninteresting country but then we turned inland heading for the East coast. Very pretty drive through rugged country indeed and the vegetation growing lusher by the km as we progressed. Drove over one or two fords rather than bridges although fortunately nothing was in flood. Many hairpin bends which were a challenge constantly remembering to keep right! Fortunately very little traffic. As we approached the coast and further north it was like driving through a garden - roadsides well trimmed and individual properties likewise. Although fairly modest housing everything was so trim and neat. Turned north at the coast because we wanted to get as far as Hienghene but couldn't find anywhere to eat or even buy anything. We luckily had bought some Chorizo Saucisse and cheese before leaving Bourail so that sustained us but by great good fortune we happened upon a roadside BBQ where they were cooking Brochettes de Cerf (venison kebabs). They were delicious and we bought 4 for 200 francs apiece (about NZD2.90 ea.). Wished we had bought some more!! We then continued up to Hienghene which is a very pretty little village on a tidal river and a small yacht marina. Then turned around reluctantly and headed back south along a very pretty coast to Poindimie where we had our 2nd. night's accommodation booked at the Hotel de la Plage. You could be forgiven for thinking this was actually on the beach but in fact was quite a bit back. However, it was comfortable and didn't set us back NZD500+ per night which a swanky resort on the beach was charging. We ate at the resort which was good but not value for money. Nothing in our experience in NC is - with the possible exception of the Hotel Banu in La Foa.
Day 3 - Sun. 14th. We drove south of Poindimie with the intention of going as far as Houailou then Kouaoua before heading across the island again to La Foa. We had been warned not to go to Houailou or any further south as there had apparently been some problems with the Kanak locals but we thought it was worth the risk. In the event we saw nothing to give rise to any concern. In fact most of the locals waved although many looked quite fierce!! There were no roadsigns from Houailou south - probably destroyed by the locals - so it was with some trepidation that we continued because the road took us up very steeply into what was either an existing nickel mine or a recently worked over one. Being the weekend there was no work going on but it certainly seemed from the earthworks we saw that this was all country that was being currently worked as an opencast nickel mine. For a while it wasn't clear whether we were on the right road or not because it was incredibly steep and narrow and we were driving through a veritable moonscape of black red and ochre country with nothing growing. Truly an amazing drive with the outside temperature dropping to 18 degrees as we gained altitude. Very very steep with low gear descents the prudent approach. And breathtaking dropoffs if one put a foot (or a wheel) wrong.
Soon however we were descending again into lush bush and then heading across the island towards Sarramea and La Foa beyond. Very windy and up and down but extremely scenic. Good if you aren't in a hurry. We had been told that Sarramea was worth a visit and after another frustrating time with the French lack of information (signs) we came upon the l'Hotel Evasion. An amazing find in the middle of nowhere. It's a fairly new establishment - would be a good place to bring one's secretary for the weekend being something of a retreat!! We had a great lunch there as we were famished after driving through the nickel country - we had Canard (duck) with gratinated white taro and it was wonderful.
Then well sated, we continued to La Foa. The Hotel Banu is right on the main road in La Foa but behind they have some quite new self contained cottages and we stayed in one of those. Very comfortable and we had a well deserved kip after arriving. Then a shower to revive us and into the restaurant. What a treat. Apparently it has the reputation of being the best eaterie in NC and that is well deserved. We had a bottle of Alsace Gewurztraminer and garlic prawns. Sooooo much garlic and 12 prawns each - just as well we had the same as each other!! By the time we had finished it was all we could do to stagger off to bed. Just under 24000 francs for the whole stay incl. dinner, wine and cooked breakfast the next day which equates to approx. NZD350. Well worth it and the first time we would say excellent value. If we ever get a chance we would return here. Without a doubt. A very friendly family run pub going back several generations. In a word - wonderful. It doesn't look like much from the road but inside - c'est merveilleux!!
Day 4 - Mon. 15th. Today was a public holiday so we took care to buy a few provisions from the local Supermarche in La Foa in case we couldn't find any eateries open along the way. In the event a good precaution; we are getting wise to the ways of the French! Before leaving Jean spoke to a group of Aussies who we'd seen the night before and it turned out that they knew the hotel proprietor and came there regularly for deer stalking, which he organised. They had already bagged 2 stags and showed her the bloody heads! She wasn't fazed having been used to her brothers' exploits with pig hunting.
We took a reluctant departure from La Foa and headed south to Boulouparis from where we once again headed inland and across to the other coast at Thio. This apparently was the site of the 1st nickel mine in NC but it was something of a disappointment as being a public holiday everything was FERMEE (closed)! However, we did find a nickel loading port just south where the ore is loaded by conveyor directly onto the ore carrying ships. Then we came back across the island and down to the village of Tontouta where the international airport is located 60 kms north of Noumea. We had lunch at another very friendly little hotel and they lady proprietor gave us some citronella (lemon grass) as an infusion for Jean's tea.
Then reluctantly the final stretch to Noumea. 150 francs for the Payage (toll road) and 3000 francs to fill the car with fuel and the ride into town was a breeze. Left the car at Noumea Yacht Services office and walked around to the boat where all was well. On the way we met Kim and Lars off Sume who we knew well from Whangarei. They are about to depart back to NZ after having spent about 3 months here in NC.
Nearly our turn to depart also so will be in touch again with our news it develops.
Cheers, best regards and love
Jim and Jean (Gina)
P.S. We hear it's been snowing in Auckland - whatever next??!!

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Tuesday 9 August 2011

Le Nickel

A few more thoughts and impressions of New Caledonia. As we have said on our blogsite we are continuing to enjoy our stay here. Although there are some frustrations!! The marina is similar to Whangarei in that it is right in town and everything incl. the daily food market within easy walking distance. Costs of food in particular are about one third more than in NZ but we're accepting that - not that we have much choice!! Marina fees very much on a par with the NZ average although the showers are free as is power (all included). Laundry though is very expensive as one has to leave it at one of two places - one can't do one's own laundry and that has sent the washerwoman into something of a decline!!! Never mind - she'll be able to satisfy her desires once we get to Vanuatu!  Having said that, she is doing daily washing on board so isn't declining too much!!! The first lot cost us the equivalent of NZD38 although it was 3 loads.
There's a great Traiteur (deli) and a Patisserie (bakery) also within walking distance so we will need to leave soon otherwise will become quite rotund!! Still, the walking counteracts that to some extent.
Generally, New Cal is very busy and prosperous. There are 2 brand new nickel processing plants under construction right now - one in the north and the other south. When they are on stream NC will be the No. 1 nickel producer in the world. All very well now while the demand from China continues but if that declined substantially there would be a corresponding decline here. And with the current commercial turmoil on world markets who knows what will happen? One thing for sure, France will not let this place go any time soon - it's really just a huge lump of nickel poking up above the surrounding ocean which is very deep close in on each side  down to 4000 metres in places. They say it doesn't matter where you dig; there is nickel everywhere. And now they've discovered cobalt in the lagoon which is very disturbing because that would be an ecological disaster - especially knowing the French disregard for such concerns! However, there is a very strong lobby against any lagoon mining so that's encouraging. NC's lagoon rivals Australia's Barrier Reef in area so is very significant.
Politically, things seem fairly stable but there was a clash between airline strikers and another group against on one of the Loyalty Is. (Mahe) last weekend and 4 people were shot dead!! And some others wounded. So, tensions are not far below the surface. Saw a local Kanak woman being arrested at the market this morning by 4 police but not sure why. Maybe just some shoplifting?
Abslolutely beautiful morning here again. The marina is glassy calm and sun shining. Temperature in low 20's and at night about 18. Well, must go now and organise some accommodation up the island for the weekend - if we don't want to sleep in the car!!! Chloe at Noumea Yacht Services will hopefully look after that.
Hope all well with everyone
Cheers,
Jim and Gina

Monday 8 August 2011

Noumea oddyssey

We are still here. We were going to go up the island last weekend but Gina wasn't so well so postponed until this coming weekend. In the meantime we are enjoying Noumea; went to a well known local restaurant last night - La Chaumiere. Had a very pleasant meal but bit hung over today!! We are still going to the market every morning and enjoying the local produce. Otherwise getting onto little maintenance items on the boat and general housekeeping. Caught the bus to Anse Vata Beach on Sunday where there are many high rise hotels. Noumea's equivalent of Waikiki!! Visited the aquarium there which was well worthwhile. Amazing collection of sealife - impossibly coloured fish and corals. Nature's diversity at its most flamboyant. Because we are over 60 we got in at a discount - about the only discount we are ever going to get in this place I think!!
Yesterday a beautiful Athol Burns designed motorsailer arrived next to us - name of "Windora". They are off to Vanuatu in a few days. Athol Burns was Wellington based and designed very capable and chunky boats - probably for Cook Strait conditions. "Windora" is no exception and is an absolute credit to her owners. We went on board this morning and she's impressive to say the least. The owner, Phil said he alone had spent 6000 hours during the course of refitting and this is by no means an isolated story. So many people have spent countless hours building or refitting their boats. They have just arrived from Sydney, were in Tasmania for the wooden boat show and heading for Vanuatu before back to NZ. Then the plan is to sail to Chile. It's all encouraging for our plans for SE Asia.
Well, more later when we get on the move again.
Cheers from us

Thursday 4 August 2011

Noumea after 10 days of debauchery!!

Hi again,
Well, you might think we are spending the time supping G & T's in the cockpit but that's not the reality. We have nonetheless been enjoying the atmosphere not to mention the food. We are regular (daily) shoppers at the Marche Municipal (only 5 minutes walk) and the fruit and veges as well as meat and fish is soooooo fresh. So we are buying in the French way from hand to mouth every day.
Right now it is 1730 on Friday evening and we are sitting in the marina cafe enjoying a glass of vin rouge while a band is setting up to blast us with noise in a few minutes no doubt!! Must be an age thing!
We have finally organised a replacement wind vane which is being made in 4mm plywood and glassed so will be inherently much stronger than the original polycarbonate. Should see us as far as Australia. 
Then, just to remind us that maintenance is never finished on a boat, our galley sink drain pump has given up the ghost again with a split diaphragm. This has happened twice before and is inexplicable. So we made initial enquiries today from Marine Corail ( a local chandler) which were fairly fruitless. Then a suggestion was made that we get in the dinghy in the morning and go 1/2 a mile across the harbour to where there are other chandlers at Nouville Plaisance and who are more likely to have the replacement part we need. So, here's hoping. All a bit trying in broken French but we get by.
We were going to hire a car this morning to go up the island but glad that we postponed until next Friday. In the meantime once we get our bits and pieces we can sail north to Baie Maa or Baie de St. Vincent to see whether everything is working properly. In between we may be able to relax but it is certainly not like a holiday sitting on the beach!! 
We have met some very helpful people - not least of which is Herve who organised the windvane and drove Jim all over an industrial part of Noumea to buy the glass cloth and contacted his friend Bernard - another yachtie and is a furniture maker. Bernard is making and glassing the windvane.
Jim's French is improving but we probably need at least 6 months here for that to really start to flourish. We have walked to Baie des Citrons and tomorrow plan to go to Anse Vata to see the aquarium. Or maybe Sunday - Manyana!!
Love to eveyone
Jim and Gina (Jean)  

Tiare Taporo III's first ocean passage

Hi,
We are sitting in the marina cafe in Noumea using their "hotspot" internet and it is time to start on the account of our voyage from New Zealand.
Day One - 16/07 We slipped out of the marina at Opua, Bay of Islands at 1200 with no fuss or fanfare after much frustration with the ludicrous bureaucracy surrounding Cat One which we have already well documented. We still have not received a reply from Maritime NZ to our email of 3 days ago!! We encountered a SW of 15-20 knots and felt reasonably buoyed that we would have a good passage with fair winds. How wrong that prediction was going to prove to be. We passed outside the Cavallis at 1700 and settled into the night with reefed sails. Position 34 degrees 37 minutes S 173 degrees 45 minutes E
Day Two - 17/07 the wind dropped all day although maintaining a SW to S direction. This evening was down to 5 knots. Position 32 degrees 51 minutes S 172 degrees 57 minutes E. Motorsailing
Day Three - 18/07 easterlies started during the day which suited us and were never above 15 knots. Good sailing. Position 31 degrees 06 minutes S 171 degrees 10 minutes E
Day Four 19/07 wind tending NE and increasing to 25 knots +. Starting to be concerned at being on the wrong side of Norfolk Is. but never came closer than 60 miles. Position 29 degrees 35 minutes S 169 degrees 49 minutes E Not looking so good for an easy sail!!
Day Five - 20/07 wind 30 knots + with rapidly increasing sea.  Sometimes gusting up to 40 knots. Finished the day at NW 15-20. Exactly what we didn't want with wind right on the nose. Our Smart Charger no longer charging from the engine which is causing a problem because we can no longer run the freezer or fridge. Lightning storm all around us in early part of night - concerning when you are on the only tall object (mast!!) for miles. Got caught in a 35 knot squall after dark with full genoa out and most of the starboard side in the water until we furled the beast. Jim sitting in the cockpit up to his waist in water winching the furling line with Gina tailing from the companionway! These things are very real at the time but they tend to fade into distant memory fairly quickly.  Position 28 degrees 11 minutes S 169 degrees 22 minutes E
Day Six - 21/07 wind from N - NW all day up to 20 knots making northerly progress very difficult. Steering NE in the end straight towards Fiji!! Early this morning before dawn our AIS receiver picked up a ship heading straight towards us! We called them on the VHF and established that they had seen us. They altered course to pass well clear. Don't know whether they would have seen us if we hadn't called them. Position 27 degrees 09 minutes S 169 degrees 16 minutes E
Day Seven - 22/07 NW winds all day up to 20 knots and continuing to steer NE. Not our preferred course!! But at least making progress north. During daylight another ship was picked up on the AIS. This time a tanker "British Liberty" coming up from astern. We called them again and they said they had us on their radar and they also altered to pass well clear on our starboard side. The AIS is great and vindicates our faith in installing it. No substitute for actual Mark I eyeball lookout though. Position 25 degrees 52 minutes S 169 degrees 58 minutes E
Day Eight - 23/07 slight wind change to WNW but up to 30 knots making progress towards New Caledonia very difficult. Still steering just east of north. Hove to tonight as needing some rest from the constant bashing into big head seas with gallons of water sweeping over the boat constantly. Windvane broke so lost ability to self steer by Mrs. Fleming! Have to use the autopilot and accept the diminishing of power although we find that the wind generator and solar panels are keeping up.  Position 24 degrees 44 minutes S 169 degrees 51 minutes E
Day Nine - 24/07 Hove to most of the day but signs the wind is at last turning south of west. Hove to again tonight and forereached at about 1.5 knots - fortunately in the right direction! Position 24 degrees 19 minutes S 169 degrees 48 minutes E
Day 10 - 25/07 wind now SW - yayyy!! And dropping down below 20 knots - yay again. The seas starting to drop as the wind changes and blowing at an angle to the old swell - still over 2 metres though so still a bumpy ride. At last reeling off the miles and being careful to stay sufficiently south to avoid the southern reefs of New Cal!! Position 23 degrees 53 minutes S 168 degrees 39 minutes E
Day 11 - 26/07 wind now dead astern (SE) so sailing more difficult. Also dropped to 10-15 knots. Decided to lay our waypoint directly under power. Just want to get there!! Some concern at fuel reserves but we have been keeping an eye on engine hours so should be well within safety margins. Plotting our position every 1/2 hour after dark as we are getting close to the reef near the Boulari Pass. Decided to heave to at 0200 tomorrow morning when we would be about 15 miles from the Pass. Then enter in daylight. Position 23 degrees 12 minutes S 167 degrees 05 minutes E
Day 12 - 27/07 great excitement at 0200 as we got going again on a course of 050 True for the Pass. Nearly there. Blowing 20 knots + from the SE but we decided to just motor - probably should have at least motorsailed but we were exhausted by now and just wanted to get there the easiest way possible. We arrived off the Pass at dawn and visibility was almost zero. Raining with low cloud and a real grey dawn - just like NZ in winter!! Some very anxious moments as the reef is indented just there so one is inside a bit of a "horseshoo" as one approaches with huge breakers each side roaring on the reef. Then we saw the Amedee Lighthouse looming out of the murk and thankfully turned towards. We could see quiet water in the Pass itself which looked very welcome. Disconcerting to see the depth sounder suddenly come to life and start recording 150 then less than 100 feet. The sea floor drop off outside the reef is very steep. The contour lines rise very sharply towards the reef itself from over 3000 metres deep only a couple of miles off, if that. Then we were through and in relatively calm water - hung a left just before the lighthouse and set course for Noumea about 15 miles distant. The New Cal reef/lagoon system is very extensive and rivals that of the Barrier Reef in Australia. We had 80-60 feet of water all the way in so no worries.  Anchored in the Baie d'Orphelinat to clean up the boat and stow and furl sails then called the marina on VHF 67. We had already emailed them so they knew we were coming and they met us on the dock to take our lines. VERY thankful to be here at last.
It was a pity to put it mildly that Gina's 1st. passage was so frustratingly slow with adverse winds. She was great though and came through as the trooper that she is. It's the worst out of 5 that Jim has sailed but it can only get better. Getting to and from NZ is something of a lottery and we are very glad that our plans do not include returning on the boat.
MAINTENANT NOUS SOMMES ARRIVEES EN NOUVELLE CALEDONIE!!!