Sunday 28 February 2010

Gt Barrier

On Saturday morning we picked up our anchor in Graveyard Bay, Whangaparapara and, as the wind had moderated, we motored over to where "Sina" was anchored near the wharf and Gt Barrier Lodge. We said goodbye to Noel, Litara and Sina as they were sailing direct for Urquarts Bay, Whangarei and then went ashore where we spent a pleasant lazy time having cups of tea and reading the Saturday Herald and the history of the area along with many fascinating photographs of the early days at the Lodge. We even had some toasted sandwiches!! Then we decided to go for a walk and had in mind we would go to the Kaitoke Hot Springs but we missed the turnoff from the road and had a quite boring walk up a seemingly endless hill!! So, we turned back and met a fellow walker (from Wisconsin, USA!!) She knew the way better than we did and we found the turnoff onto the track, thanks to her. However, time had moved on and we were worried about the tide coming in and carrying our dinghy away so after a pleasant walk through some Gt Barrier bush we returned to the Whangaparapara Wharf. But not before a few glasses of wine at the Lodge!! And the dinghy was still there! After all that walking (and wine no doubt!!) we were more than ready for bed.
So, the next morning we had a very rude awakening from our slumbers when Jean (Gina) received a text from a friend of hers advising us that there was a tsunami warning out as a result of the 8.8 Richter scale earthquake in Chile. In 10 minutes we had the anchor up and by 0815 had started moving as Whangaparapara, being a long narrow harbour, would be a nasty trap in the event of a tsunami of any size hitting the coast. In fact the warning stated that the first effects of the tsunami could be felt as early as 0800 so there was no time to be lost. We warned 2 other boats on the way out and started our short journey to Port Fitzroy a little ahead of schedule! We felt much happier out of the harbour and, although still fairly close to the coast, in about 200 feet of water. Water depth is the best defence against tsunamis as they generate their height and destructive power once they approach shallow and shoaling water.
We noticed no effect whatsoever from any tsunami generated waves and had a very picturesque passage for about 12 miles up the coast eventually rounding Wellington Head into Port Abercrombie which is the outer part of Fitzroy. We went across to Nagle Cove where in the early 1800's the largest ship ever built in NZ was launched. She was the barquentine "Stirlingshire". As with Whangaparapara it is very difficult to imagine the scale of sawmilling and ship building that was carried on in those days. Of course it was environmental rape on a grand scale with early photographs of Whangaparapara looking as though a nuclear bomb had been detonated. Much of the Barrier is regenerating now but it will be several hundred years before it is back to the natural magnificence it once had with mature Kauris and other native trees. Maybe one could discern a degree of hypocrisy in these comments as "Tiare Taporo III" is also built of NZ heart Kauri and undoubtedly non plantation grown Burma Teak!! As well as other various timbers to a lesser extent.
We eventually anchored in Port Fitzroy itself within easy rowing distance of the wharf! We went ashore and checked out the metropolis. The wharf with fuel facilities, an information kiosk, a general store and a tavern only open 4 days a week (not today!) comprise the extent of civilisation here.
Thankfully the tsunami didn't amount to anything significant here and all is well on board in the most beautiful tranquil anchorage. There is a full moon and one could wax most lyrical but instead will leave it to your imagination!
Tomorrow we plan to do some hiking in the area. We are now sadly contemplating the end of our current cruise as we have to be back in Whangarei in time to be hauled out on March 8th. But there are things to attend to and we need to be back a few days before that preferably. We will explore the greater Fitzroy area in the next couple of days and then once we identify a suitable weather window will set sail for Bream Head. We could actually see the Hen (of the Hen and Chickens) today as we came into Port Abercrombie. Only 40 odd miles away.
Hope this finds you all well.
J & J (G)

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Friday 26 February 2010

Coromandel to Gt. Barrier

Hi all,
Well, we enjoyed Te Kouma and stayed an extra day. It is described as "the best harbour on the Coromandel" in the Royal Akarana Cruising Guide and the description is accurate. It is very sheltered and almost landlocked and very pretty. We went ashore and climbed up to a vantage point and the view was amazing - across to Waiheke and right up the Coromandel Peninsula towards the Barrier.
The next day (Wed) we left at 8 in the morning and found (once again!!) the wind on the nose. So we motorsailed north along the Coromandel coast past the Happy Jacks Islands, then out past Cape Colville and Channel Island. Once at Channel Island our course changed 20 degrees to the east which enabled us to sail close hauled on the port tack direct for Whangaparapara 12 miles further on. The wind had increased a little to 15-18 knots and we had a good sail under reefed main, staysail and genoa with our Fleming wind vane steering (Mrs. Fleming!) doing the honours. It was great to just relax and let it all happen - and peaceful without the engine. We sailed in through the entrance and saw where Noel and Litara were anchored on their boat "Sina" just off the Whangaparapara Lodge. They rowed over a short time later and it was good to see them again. They have their daughter, Sina with them for a few days. She is an intern doctor at Hastings Hospital. Everything seemed fine to begin with but as night fell the wind started up and quite quickly began blowing hard from the SW - more or less straight into the bay. On top of that we realised we had anchored in an area a little shallow for comfort so decided to move to deeper water in the dark! In the windy conditions it was a little tricky getting the anchor up in the dark and resetting it but this sort of thing is all good practice and it all happened without incident. But we couldn't get out of the wind and spent a fairly sleepless night keeping check on the GPS to make sure we weren't dragging the anchor.
This morning we were quite tired after the night together with our 9 hour sail the day before but things were better in daylight. Still blowing though. To give you some idea a yacht about the same size as us tried 3 times to leave the harbour but found conditions in the narrow entrance with the wind blowing straight in too difficult and probably somewhat dangerous as she was single-handed, and abandoned each attempt. Then later when the wind had abated they managed to leave but still very rough outside. We moved to another slightly more sheltered position in the harbour (Graveyard Bay) and so we didn't have the boat pitching the way she had all night. In the meantime Noel had put out a second anchor at 2 in the morning which gave them some more security. They rowed over later and we had a cup of tea and some fruit cake and we enjoyed their company.
Now the wind has abated and the boat is almost still. It is 2240 and time for a good night's sleep. What a contrast! In the meantime we have let out 70 metres of chain to help hold us but it looks as though we won't need it. Still, better to be safe than sorry. Hopefully tomorrow we'll be able to go ashore and do some exploring. We now have a new haulout date at Norsand Whangarei - March 8th. So our plans are to stay here tomorrow, then go up to Port Fitzroy for a couple more days, and then we will sail direct for Whangarei.
More later!!
Our current position:
latitude 36 degrees 15.0 minutes south
longitude 175 degrees 24.5 minutes east
Cheers,
J & J

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Tuesday 23 February 2010

More wanderings

Hi to all,
Well,thankfully the wind diminished overnight and we motored around to Putiki Bay on the south side of Waiheke and as close as we could get to the supermarket etc. at Ostend. We went ashore at the end of Wharf Rd. and were met by Shane Ivory who had bought Waiheke Wines and Spirits back in 1998. Shane was a huge help to us as he took us to a place where we could get one of our gas bottles refilled and then dropped us at the supermarket where we spent up large replenishing our stores. Fruit and veges are the main items and it's a real treat to have some fresh ones again. Today was even more nostalgic for Jim because this was the heart of his old stamping ground for the best part of 5 years and the scene of a lot of hard work.
On Sunday Perry (Gina's son) and his girlfriend, Tracie and Gina's neice, Pritika all came to the island and we met them out at the Onetangi Beach Cafe for lunch. It was a beautiful day and the lunch with Waiheke wines was excellent. Earlier Jim had walked along the road and looked at the old Onetangi pub building (now private apartments). This was where in June 1994 Jim lived for about a month while the living accomodation in the shop (the Barn!) was being organised. He and his ex wife lived there while on the island and retained their house on Birkenhead Point in Auckland for escaping to! However, in hindsight it would have been far better to have sold Birkenhead and bought on the island because living would have been so much easier and maybe the business then would have been easier to run and may not have been sold. Certainly Waiheke (and in particular real estate) has boomed further in the intervening years.
It was great to see Perry, Tracie and Pritika in such a beautiful relaxed setting and afterwards Pritika came out to the boat to have a look as she hadn't been on board before. Perry had flown in from Melbourne where he is based on Friday and was due to return on Monday morning so it was flying visit. In the past 3 months he has been to Canada and Greece in the course of his business so he is a real globetrotter!
Then on Monday we had been invited to lunch at Shane's place but before that we decided to get some laundry done ashore as well as buying some more provisions! We discovered that the laundry wanted $25 to do our washing citing the water shortage as the reason for the high price but, had we realised this we would have hand washed everything on the boat as we normally do anyway, but sheets are a bit of a problem on the boat. Still, this is what we will do in future and as long as our watermaker works well we shouldn't have a problem with water.
Lunch was wonderful and Shane and Colleen have a lovely house up high overlooking the inner part of Putiki Bay. We had a great time relaxing and reminiscing about old times.
Then today we sadly took our leave of Waiheke and motored the whole way around the southern shores of Waikeke, past Orapiu, through the Ruthe Pasasage and across to Te Kouma Harbour (Squadron Bay)on the Coromandel Peninsula. The wind or what there was of it was right on the nose so sailing would have been a very long winded affair and we needed to charge batteries and make more water in any case so here we are. At the moment we are intending to leave for Great Barrier tomorrow ( a distance of about 45 miles) as there is a favourable wind forecast and we are looking forward to a good sail. There is a possibility we may stay here for another day - will depend on the weather in the morning and the forecast. So, it is now 2230 and time for a shower and bed. The anchorage here is beautiful and sheltered, although one could hardly say quiet as there are 14 other boats in the bay. It's surprising to see so many boats still around as it's mid week and the holiday period is finished but perhaps one can put it down to the proliferation of ageing baby boomers (like us) who are retiring and spending their time out on the water!
There will be further fascinating news of our doings once we have arrived at the Barrier. In the meantime hope all is well with everyone and will as always be pleased to hear from you.
Cheers,
J & J (G)

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Thursday 18 February 2010

Waiheke

Well, we arrived at Waiheke Is. this morning (after spending the night at Rakino) and spent about half an hour trying to find a spot where we could anchor in Matiatia Bay where the Fullers ferries land as we wanted a sheltered anchorage in view of the forecast 35 knot south westerlies!! We eventually did find a spot but it is very difficult anchoring amongst moored boats as boats behave very differently when anchored as opposed to being moored. The diameter of swing is the main difference - and how they lie to wind and tide. It is a very vexing issue these days - especially when one wants to visit a particular place to re-provision. We had the same problem in Whangaroa and Russell and, while we can understand the desire for locals to have somewhere to moor their boats, it seems to us that there should be provision for visitors to anchor both from a safety point of view as well as simply extending a welcome. Particularly as most visitors are going to spend money!! The problem is also beginning to encroach on some of the more popular anchoring spots as well and the same arguments apply - particularly the safety one. It seems wrong to effectively deny proper access to what should be the public domain (seabed and foreshore notwithstanding!) just because someone has bought a licence to occupy an area of the said seabed. It's a worse problem in some other countries as well and no doubt will be one of the crosses we have to bear when we cruise offshore.
We went ashore and wandered around Oneroa which was nostalgic for Jim. He spent nearly 5 years on the island in the mid 90's operating a retail liquor franchise at Ostend and supplied many of the restaurants on the island as well as writing wine lists and negotiating with suppliers for some of them. It always brings back memories when reading the descriptions of wines on restaurant lists because Jim used to be quite creative too with "hints of lychees or asparagus or berries", etc.!! We had dinner at Vino Vino as it was Gina's birthday and that was very pleasant overlooking Oneroa Bay. Now it's time to turn in - more tomorrow.
Well, it's now tomorrow and we are storm bound in Matiatia. We've heard wind reports on the radio of winds up to or nearly 50 knots at various places around the Gulf and it's been blowing straight in here at over 20 knots since dawn. We had thought we'd be reasonably sheltered from the SW but the headland effect is working well and funnelling the wind straight into the bay. The anchor is holding well, although we are uncomfortably close to the ferry wharf as there wasn't anywhere else to anchor yesterday thanks to all the moorings, so we have taken a line from the bow and tied it to an unused mooring on our port side and that is not only taking some weight from the anchor but also holding us away from the ferries turning when they back into the wharf. The wind is forecast to diminish this afternoon and evening so we are looking forward to a quieter night. We decided we shouldn't leave the boat today so will pay a visit to Ostend tomorrow to visit the supermarket and see how Jim's old business of Waiheke Wines and Spirits (Waiheke Super Liquor) is doing these days.
More fascinating news tomorrow!
Cheers for now,
J & G

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Wednesday 17 February 2010

Birthday Flowers

South of Kawau

Hi
Well, today we sadly took our leave of Kawau and said goodbye to the Pardeys who very kindly autographed the book of theirs which we had bought. It will be very useful and something to treasure as it has a huge amount of very useful practical information all distilled from their own very varied experiences. We also said goodbye to Darren and Melinda on "Mischief"; we hope we catch them again in our travels. We motorsailed from Kawau as we needed to make water and charge the batteries. Our first stop was Moturekareka Is. where the wreck of the "Rewa" is situated. She was a 3 masted barquentine and was purchased and then sunk by the then owner of the island about 100 years ago as a breakwater. Unfortunately as she was being scuttled she swung on her mooring and more or less blocked the bay instead of protecting it! No Resource Consents in those days! As she was originally built of iron there isn't much left of her now.
We then continued on to Tiritiri Matangi Is. which is a DOC owned island off the end of the Whangaparoa Peninsula. There has been extensive planting of native species over the last 20 years or so (a lot by volunteers) and the island is now home to a wide range of endangered native birds. We had a great walk up to the lighthouse which once was one of the most powerful in the world and then walked back to the beach via a wonderful walk where there were bird feeding stations and bird baths. We stopped at several of these and were lucky enough to see Saddlebacks, Stichbirds, North Island Robins, Kakariki (a native green parrot), and the usual Tuis and Fantails. The island is a tribute to all the people who have laboured over the years to produce such a stunning example of seriously endangered native bird species. We had quite by chance met some of Jim's old neighbours in Birkenhead on Kawau and then met them again on Tiri! It's such a small world because we had also seen a yacht they used to own (a Stewart 34 called "Patea") at the Cavallis and the BOI a couple of weeks ago. Jim spoke to the new owners in Oke Bay in the Bay of Islands then.
We are now anchored in Woody Bay on Rakino Is. We were going to carry on to Waiheke but will do that in the morning. It is very peaceful here - not too many other boats. It's Jeans (Gina's) birthday tomorrow but she says she wasn't born until 10 in the morning so there is still time for the skipper to assert his seniority! Finding a plank of suitable size for the walking thereof will be a priority or maybe just being tipped in the tide will do!! Either way a red letter day.
Our new position is:
Lat 36 degrees 43 minutes south
Long 174 degrees 57 minutes east
Cheers,
J & J (G)

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Tuesday 16 February 2010

Kawau again

Just a couple of things we neglected to mention.
For 2010 a group of island women took part in a photographic calendar to raise money for a local rescue trust. It depicts each of them in every month in a state of topless desabillee but artfully clothed with local fauna and flora! One was artfully draped in seaweed - and so on. On the front cover was another damsel standing in the water and strategically holding a snapper! In the background was Jim's Grandfather's little cottage - what a coincidence. Not sure what Grandfather would have thought having his cottage immortalised in this way but Jim seems fairly sure he would have approved.
Lin and Larry Pardey are leaving next week for New York where they are to be invested with a medal for their cruising exploits and services to offshore cruising in general by the Cruising Yacht Club of America - a very prestigious award and richly deserved. A fitting milestone in an illustrious cruising career.
Cheers again
J&J(G)

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Kawau

Hi everyone,
We went around to North Cove today to again meet Lin and Larry Pardey who are a Canadian couple in their 70's and who now live on the island. The first time we met was last Easter when we sailed down to Kawau with Noel and Litara Barrott on their 53' yawl "Sina". Noel and Litara apparently first met Lin and Larry in Ushuaia, Argentina. They have written many books about all aspects of cruising offshore - everything from cooking on passage to navigation and storm tactics. We already had several of their books but today have also bought one entitled "Care and Feeding of Sailing Crew"!! Lin and Larry are absolute gurus of offshore sailing and it is always a great privilege to talk to them. We had lunch with them along with an American couple off another boat which had originated in Alaska. Lin and Larry have circumnavigated more than once - the most recent voyage in a boat they built and still own. She is here tied up to their wharf and she is 30' long. Her name is "Taleisin". After lunch we walked for about half an hour with Lin to a neighbour's place where she is taking piano lessons and they had a wonderful garden on the top of a hill overlooking a spectacular view of Vivian Bay. The couple off the American boat "Mischief" (Darren and Melinda) came with us. He is an acupuncturist in another life!!
Tomorrow we are heading for Waiheke and we will be hoping to see Jim's old business of Waikeke Wines and Spirits - otherwise known as Super Liquor Waiheke or simply "The Barn"!! Talk about an exercise in nostalgia!! We'll regale you with further news of our progress as it comes to hand.
Cheers and lots of love
J & J(G)

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Sunday 14 February 2010

Heading south

Hi everyone,
We have at last ventured south of Whangarei! We had a great sail today. We left at 0730 and had minimal wind to start with. Then a bit later north of Bream Tail there developed a tailwind of about 12 knots and we poled out the Genoa and for a time enjoyed some very relaxed downwind sailing. But alas it was not to be for any length of time. Murphy must have been watching because the wind started to head us so we dowsed the pole and then later when the wind increased took a reef in the mainsail. We then had some very spirited sailing and the old girl once again picked up her skirts and went for it. We had more than 20 knots of wind as we came round Takatu Point and then were struck with 27 knots! Still had full Genoa and the reefed main. So we did the whimpish thing and furled the Genoa and started the engine (!) as we didn't have far to go at that stage. We are now anchored in Bon Accord Harbour, Kawau and pleased to have had something to eat and contemplate a good night's sleep after about 9 hours of sailing. Our position is lat 36 degrees 25.6 minutes south, long 174 degrees 50.3 minutes east. We are anchored in Harris Bay just off the little cottage which Jim's maternal grandfather built back in the 1950's so it's quite nostalgic. We are going to meet the people who run Schoolhouse Bay Radio in the morning as we will be in contact with them (as well as Russell radio) when we finally leave on our offshore voyaging.
We have been plagued since we started this cruise by technical problems most of which can be traced back to the earlier refit at Partridge Yachts Yard in Kerikeri in 2006-7. We are fixing them all as they occur but it is certainly detracting from the enjoyment. Still, it's better that they are found now rather than in Timbuctoo!!! Another example was this morning (at 6 if you please!) when we checked the bilge and found about 4" of oily water down there. It has happened because they had neglected to install an anti siphon valve on a bilge discharge line which meant that in some circumstances water could back siphon into the boat. You could imagine our feelings at 6 in the morning and wondering whether we would actually leave at all. Anyway we pumped the bilge and closed the skin fitting valve to overcome the immediate problem but this is hardly a long-term fix. We will fix it properly when we haul out again next month at Norsand. The list of shortcomings at Partridges is as long as your arm and infinitely more expensive!! It is very disappointing but seems to be becoming more and more the norm in this country and our advice is if you ever contemplate doing anything which involves employing trades people check them out very thoroughly and then make sure that you have a cast iron contract - notwithstanding that contracts are only worth the paper they are written on!! Please excuse the cynicism but this has been our experience.
The crew has just had a shower and the skipper is in dire need of one!! Dishes are next on the agenda and then a good night's sleep.
Hope this finds everyone well.
Cheers,
J & J (G)

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Tuesday 9 February 2010

Heading south

Hi,
We are now back in the Bay of Islands after a scrappy sail from Whangaroa. Think we'll have to start being a bit more pro-active in waiting for or seeking suitable wind directions. The wind or what there was of it was SE and on the nose and it didn't matter what tactics we tried - that was the situation! So we motorsailed all the way. Struck a very unpleasant sloppy sea with a big leftover swell off the Ninepin and almost no wind to steady us so were quite glad to get into calmer water. We met a refrigeration technician at Doves Bay and he tells us we need to install a rack in the bottom of the freezer to allow air circulation and that will cure our problems. Pity we weren't told that in the first place when the thing was first built and installed but it's been typical of almost everything that was done during the first refit at Kerikeri. It was not a happy experience but we are very pleased with everything that has been done subsequently in Whangarei.
We are intending to stay here for a couple of days re-provisioning. There's a reasonably good supermarket at Paihia - and they have Kransky's!!! Then, assuming the forecast W/SW winds stay around, we will head down the coast with a first Hauraki Gulf stop at Kawau. So, Mark hope to see you around the 14th.-16th. Then around the Gulf then the Barrier and then back to Whangarei where we have a schedule of things to be done before leaving NZ at the end of April. We are gong to be busy once we have hauled out mid March. So we had better enjoy this cruising life while we can!!
Hope all is well
Cheers again,
J & J(G)

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Friday 5 February 2010

(no subject)

Well, we haven't wandered far since our last communication. This ESE wind has been diabolical - especially for sailing south. An English yacht whose owners have sailed halfway round the world left for the Bay of Islands a couple of days ago and turned back at the Cavallis in headwinds of 45 knots. This is something to deal with at sea if encountered but to actually head out into it is not a good prospect. So, here we are still. Our electrical problem has been solved and thankfully the winds are reducing but we hear that another system might bring similar conditions again so we might make a dash for the BOI in a couple of days. We'll probably abandon Mangonui as the anchorage there isn't good in these winds.
We are anchored again off Whangaroa Village and this morning we decided to climb St. Paul which is a 212 metre volcanic peak just behind the village. It was a steep climb in places and near the summit which is actually a precipitously sided volcanic plug there is a crevice in the almost vertical rock where chains are fitted so that one can haul one's way up to the summit. Coming down was more difficult than going up!! But it was definitely worth the effort and of course the view was magnificent. Not bad for a 63 year old I thought!!
Watch this space!!!
Cheers, J & G

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Monday 1 February 2010

(no subject)

Hi,
We are having a frustrating time at the moment holed up in Whangaroa Harbour. It is blowing a gale from the ESE (up to 40 knots), although the biggest gust we have experienced in the harbour has been just over 30. Makes it quite unpleasant at anchor with these gusts hitting us at regular intervals and not a little unnerving at night as we are trying to get some sleep. We always note down the GPS position before dark so that we can then refer to it during the night to see whether we have dragged the anchor. After our earlier experience we aren't too confident of our new anchor so that doesn't help either although it has to be said it hasn't let us down again and it has withstood some fairly heavy loads in the last 48 hours. Still, we are making sure of it by having 120 feet of chain deployed in only 15 feet of water! We moved today and have found a marginally more settled anchorage although it is impossible to escape the wind. Still, we are sheltered from any sea.
We have also lost all radio communication with Russell Radio as the high land around Whangaroa has affected that. On the western side of the harbour apparently it is better but we can't stay over there because of the wind. We'll have to wait until we leave and get somewhere where we can get through.
We are still waiting for the replacement electrical part and then as soon as that is fitted and the weather moderates we will be heading for Mangonui.
In the meantime we hope all is well and will communicate again when we have something more exciting to relate!
Cheers,
J & G

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